Car Starting Problems

my car is clicking and wont turn over what could it be

The problem is called "dieseling" or "engine run-on" and happens primarily in cars with carburetor engines. It occurs when the engine is shut down because fuel in the cylinders is being ignited without a spark, but by a hot spot in the cylinder. The problem isn't as prevalent in cars after 1990, since most are now fuel-injected.

There are several things that can cause dieseling - refer to the link below to view them.

I had a similar problem. The rear hatch area was making an intermittent clicking noise. The battery went completely dead. I attached a charger and it wouldn't charge the battery, came up with an error code saying my battery was bad. So with a booster battery attached I could still hear the clicking. I popped the rear glass window using my key fob and heard an electric motor run briefly. I closed the hatch, no more clicking. I was then able to charge the battery. By the way, the entire rear hatch is coated in ice and it's about 20 degrees out.

Could be a safety feature of that particular model and year. Starting the engine in neutral removes all possibilities of the vehicle lunging forward or backwards when it starts up.

If you mean "hydro lock", that is when coolant enters the combustion chamber and prevents the engine from turning (water doesn't compress)

Most often this is caused by a vapour lock in the fuel system.

on the bottom side of the engine.

It is inside the fuel tank. It can be accessed through an access hole under the back seat.

sounds like the starter or alternator

Edited 6-10-09

Cause is the passlocks contact behind the lock, The female end in the housing section are corroded and a simple solution would be to spray a very small amount of electrical lubricant or wd40 and the the security system should detect the new ignition when inserted.

If your starter is dead, you won't be going anywhere until it gets fixed,automatic or not.

Timing is way off or spark plug wires incorrectly connected.

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It could be as simple as replacing the ignition key. Each key has a chip that comunicates directly with the car. If the chip goes bad, the car's starter will turn over, but the engine will not start. There is no after market key that will work. You must purchase them from a dealer. Costly little buggers, roughly around $150....... what kind of vehicle is this?

That's not a question. Try asking"Why won't my ford escort start?"

The starter on 4th generation (1995-1999) Nissan Sentras is very easy to locate and replace. It is a mostly-black cylinder, about 9 or 10" long and 3" thick, that sits on the front center of the engine. It is held on by 2 bolts, and has 2 wires connected. The 2 bolts come off easily, one of the wires simply comes unplugged easily, and the other has a small bolt holding it on.

Replacement may involve removing a bracket that holds the throttle (gas pedal) in a certain position, because there may not be enough room to work with that bracket in place. Removing and replacing that bracket (which is held onto the engine block by 2 bolts), does not affect the operation of the car.

If this is the first time the starter is having issues, replacement can be put off for a couple weeks by taking a small hammer (or something similar) and hitting the starter. Don't hit it too hard, but don't be too gentle. It might take several hits to get it to work. This is only a temporary solution. The starter WILL have to be replaced eventually.

If you have a carborater on the engine remove the air filter housing to expose the carb... with a small hammer (no realy) tap lightly on the front part of the carb, closest to the rad and try to re-start. The float could be stuck open and this will help to release it. The carb may need a re-build...

check you fuel pressure if it is to low the car will try to start but will not.this happend to a friend of mine and it was the fuel pump,replaced it car has been running fine.hope this helps you:)

Look for a blown fuse or burnt fuseabke link.

battery??? and the conections, if your getting this from a diagnostic, it might be your timeing...

The 1997 Toyota fuel pump fuse is located in the fuse box. The fuse box can be found in the engine compartment.

Any relay can intermittently stick on or off depending on if it is an normally open or closed relay. most consist of a metallic contact that acts up due to heat to make the contact or some are electronic but in either case they can stick and sometimes they can release themselves, best way to tell is swap out a known good relay.

you craped in it

out of gas prbably