Car Starting Problems

The starter on 4th generation (1995-1999) Nissan Sentras is very easy to locate and replace. It is a mostly-black cylinder, about 9 or 10" long and 3" thick, that sits on the front center of the engine. It is held on by 2 bolts, and has 2 wires connected. The 2 bolts come off easily, one of the wires simply comes unplugged easily, and the other has a small bolt holding it on.

Replacement may involve removing a bracket that holds the throttle (gas pedal) in a certain position, because there may not be enough room to work with that bracket in place. Removing and replacing that bracket (which is held onto the engine block by 2 bolts), does not affect the operation of the car.

If this is the first time the starter is having issues, replacement can be put off for a couple weeks by taking a small hammer (or something similar) and hitting the starter. Don't hit it too hard, but don't be too gentle. It might take several hits to get it to work. This is only a temporary solution. The starter WILL have to be replaced eventually.

If you have a carborater on the engine remove the air filter housing to expose the carb... with a small hammer (no realy) tap lightly on the front part of the carb, closest to the rad and try to re-start. The float could be stuck open and this will help to release it. The carb may need a re-build...

check you fuel pressure if it is to low the car will try to start but will not.this happend to a friend of mine and it was the fuel pump,replaced it car has been running fine.hope this helps you:)

Look for a blown fuse or burnt fuseabke link.

battery??? and the conections, if your getting this from a diagnostic, it might be your timeing...

The 1997 Toyota fuel pump fuse is located in the fuse box. The fuse box can be found in the engine compartment.

Any relay can intermittently stick on or off depending on if it is an normally open or closed relay. most consist of a metallic contact that acts up due to heat to make the contact or some are electronic but in either case they can stick and sometimes they can release themselves, best way to tell is swap out a known good relay.

you craped in it

out of gas prbably

i had the same problem with my 93 gmc it ended up being my cillinoid, sorry but i dont know how to spell it

: If anything, try replacing the fuel pump relay (about $17.00 part) before you do anything too expensive. I spent about $1200 replacing the computer and the pump and finally replacing the relay worked. It almost looks like a fuse and should be possibly located under the glove box (at least it was on my 95). Good luck.

try reseting comp. disconect battery for an hour or 2 if that dose not work go to libaire get the chiltons guid to your f-body and see if theres another way to reset Your not going to like this but the only way to get the anti-theft system to disengage is to get a dealership to hook it up to a machine and the will reprogram the car's engine brain or ECU so the engine and be started.

the fuel injectors sensors are turned off by the anti-theft device ? my 99 blazer did this and had to reset the device.. turn key on and to the start position leave on for 10 minutes , then try to start it , if it doesn't start just repeat this .. one mechanic says it had to be done 3 three times in a row. in order to fix the problem.. i learned this, only after replacing a working fuel pump .......... who knew! the fuel injectors sensors are turned off by the anti-theft device ? my 99 blazer did this and had to reset the device.. turn key on and to the start position leave on for 10 minutes , then try to start it , if it doesn't start just repeat this .. one mechanic says it had to be done 3 three times in a row. in order to fix the problem.. i learned this, only after replacing a working fuel pump .......... who knew! I have been experiencing the same problem, I have changed the fuel filter several times, and replaced the fuel pump the problem still exists. As far as I can see the only thing left to change is the fuel pressure regulator?

The Traction Control Circuit on your automatic transmission has noticed a difference in rotational speed (RPM) of the two drive wheels. If it comes on when the tires are not slipping, then a mechanic should be consulted.

is your security light flashing?

turn the key on, leave on for 10 mins, turn key off let it sit for 2 mins, start car

The instrument cluster can cause that problem. It shorts out the communication system between the computers.

Just because the jumpstart did not start the car does not eliminate the battery as suspect. Have the battery tested. If the battery tests good and the car still does not start (assuming the starter is spinning fast enough). the next step is to ensure that fuel is reaching the engine. Following that, the next step is to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid/relay and look for a loose or disconnected wire.

Replace the idle air control valve right below the throtle body this can be a very expensive part so go to a u pull it junk yard

Could be the immobiliser, try disconnecting the battery for 30minutes a then connect it back up and try starting it again!!

solenoid or relay switch

i am not an auto tech, how ever I do know that Lincolns have always had problems with their electrical and "computer chip" components. I owned an 85 town car that had similar problems. I would say it is that rather than mechanical. Here is a question for you about your car...when it WAS running, did your engine ever just die when you cut your steering wheel to far one way or the other? that happened to me a lot as well as the other. matter of fact it was that problem that tipped me off on the electrical issue. a mechanic confirmed my suspicions. it could be something else for you though, but I would suggest starting there.

if it does not turn over and no clicking noise but headlights on, check start fuse and relay

if it doesnt turn over and clicks probable starter solenoid

The computer doesn't allow to start the engine. Check the error code.

Hey here are a few similar things, cause my firebird is doing the same thing to me... I found this Q: 96 s10 that was running fine but recently had trouble with ignition When the key was turned to on position no lights turn on but if you turn it farther than the starter turns but the car doesn't start? First answer by 72.242.81.57. Last edit by Baldfatguy. Contributor trust: 47 [recommend contributor]. Question popularity: 1 [recommend question] Answer Check to see if it has a rod coming out of the bottom area of steering column--controlled by ignition switch that may have become mal-adjusted or bent Answer I'd start with the ignition switch.... Q: 1994 Camaro ignition Security light My 1994 Camaro is in San Jose with this problem and they are hoping to figure this out.....they say that the most common problem with this is that there is a wiring problem that has either shorted out/disconnected or the ignition system is just not reading the "chip" in the key itself and it may be in need of repair......I'll find out more today as they, at this moment are "looking at it now"........We'll see! I'll hopefully find out the true answer today and I'll post it here..........also let you you know what it cost me for this answer!!!!!!!! ==Headline== A: The problem with the camaro was that the connector to the ignition switch literally came apart-broke off-whatever....anyway the fix was to solder the wire back to the switch and its now as good as new! with my '96 Grand Prix, I had this happen 3 or 4 times, after a new alternator and battery... i read on here to spray brake cleaner into the ignition itself ie: where the key goes. Make sure it's a cleaner that won't leave a residue. Spray until it runs clear. Make sure to protect the carpet... like use a big rag under the steering column. I took about 5 minutes to run clear with mine. It hasn't not started since. that was in June/July of '08 Now Nov and no problems.

Does it turn over?

Is it getting fuel?

Is it getting spark?