Car Starting Problems

Probable cause is the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty or worn out. Some switches can be opened and the contacts cleaned quite easily, whereas others can be more difficult. Only 100% fix is to replace the switch part of the ignition switch assembly.

sounds like you have put the code in wrong too many times, disconnect then reconnect the battery, make sure you have the correct code, then it will work.

Just about all GM cars have a Vats theft system in stalled on them. The little button on your ignition key (the black plastic tab/button with a silver pin is a resistor. when you put the key in ignition this resistor is checked for the correct resistonce (there are 15 different ones) Any way if there is dirt on key or inside the igniton switch the Vats system thinks your tru to steal your car. It resets after the three minents. The key seating in the switch for these 3 mins will probly make enought contact to read the risitor correctry. All you have to do is spray some contact cleaner on key and into the igntion key hole. some times just some WD 40 will clean it enought. Hope this helps, Ben Parker, San Jose,Ca. I've had a 97 Olds Achieva since August 2005. Ever since the beginning I've had problems with the security light/starting problem. Invariably when I needed to go somewhere or was in a hurry it would cut out and wouldn't start, or I had to wait 7-8 minutes for the security light to stop blinking. Just this last week the solution came! First off, if you turn on the key and if the lights on the dash lights don't go on, wait until they do. When they go on, if the security light is blinking, wait until it stops. Then wait until the bell stops ringing. Wait until the 'groaning' sound stops. Wait a few seconds more. Then without turning the key off, start the car without pressing on the accelerator. It's worked every time for me the last couple of weeks. C Aaron Salt Lake City, Utah

Check your battery first, and if not your starter or ignition switch, after that, it's something more serious.

My 1995 ford taurus se, 3.o v6 was running in park to check if it was overheating, its not. While leting it run I was pounding out a dent over the rear passenger side tire that was rubbing a the tire. The car just died, full tank so not out of gas, it will try to turn over, but won't catch and start. Could I have triggered a special safety action, comprimised the computer, or messed up the fuel relay switch?

Just try different sizes until you find the right size. It will not be metric.

Sounds like the contacts are worn or burned for the ignition lock assy. Autozone has an ignition switch assy. but depending on whether you have a manual transmission model or automatic transmission there's a big difference in price.

under the engine on the right side you'll see a coffe pot looking item that's the starter

Depending on how old it is you should sell especially if those are the first problems I have a 94 ford ranger i have spent more money fixing it then what a bought it for

my car is clicking and wont turn over what could it be

The problem is called "dieseling" or "engine run-on" and happens primarily in cars with carburetor engines. It occurs when the engine is shut down because fuel in the cylinders is being ignited without a spark, but by a hot spot in the cylinder. The problem isn't as prevalent in cars after 1990, since most are now fuel-injected.

There are several things that can cause dieseling - refer to the link below to view them.

I had a similar problem. The rear hatch area was making an intermittent clicking noise. The battery went completely dead. I attached a charger and it wouldn't charge the battery, came up with an error code saying my battery was bad. So with a booster battery attached I could still hear the clicking. I popped the rear glass window using my key fob and heard an electric motor run briefly. I closed the hatch, no more clicking. I was then able to charge the battery. By the way, the entire rear hatch is coated in ice and it's about 20 degrees out.

Could be a safety feature of that particular model and year. Starting the engine in neutral removes all possibilities of the vehicle lunging forward or backwards when it starts up.

If you mean "hydro lock", that is when coolant enters the combustion chamber and prevents the engine from turning (water doesn't compress)

Most often this is caused by a vapour lock in the fuel system.

on the bottom side of the engine.

It is inside the fuel tank. It can be accessed through an access hole under the back seat.

sounds like the starter or alternator

Edited 6-10-09

Cause is the passlocks contact behind the lock, The female end in the housing section are corroded and a simple solution would be to spray a very small amount of electrical lubricant or wd40 and the the security system should detect the new ignition when inserted.

If your starter is dead, you won't be going anywhere until it gets fixed,automatic or not.

Timing is way off or spark plug wires incorrectly connected.

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It could be as simple as replacing the ignition key. Each key has a chip that comunicates directly with the car. If the chip goes bad, the car's starter will turn over, but the engine will not start. There is no after market key that will work. You must purchase them from a dealer. Costly little buggers, roughly around $150....... what kind of vehicle is this?

That's not a question. Try asking"Why won't my ford escort start?"