Car Starting Problems

The problem in your computer. When the car first starts up the ECU is in open loop mode and everything works(non-controlled by the ecu). Then it goes in to closed-loop mode with everthing being monitored by the ECU. The closed loop circuit of ECU has shorted out. I had the same problem with my 86. To verify this, hook up a inline fuel pressure guage after the fuel filter on the right inner fender well, when you start the car up, have someone watch the fuel pressure and see if it goes away and the cars dies at the same time. If it does the ECU is your problem.

The computer maybe fubar(no good)? have you checked the plug wires distributor cap and rotor? could be the distributor its self or possably the pick up coil

Sounds like a faulty fuel pump. The fuel filter could also be plugged up.

AS LONG AS THERE IS ENOUGH POWER IN BATTERY TO SUPPLY A SPARK TO THE ENGINE

VIA THE DISTRIBUTOR IT WILL RUN FOR A WHILE (DONT DRIVE IT IN THE DARK THOUGH IT USE ALL THE POWER IN THE BATTERY)

All the alternator does is to keep the battery charged up

I had same issue, replaced fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail under intake cover. Starts and runs great now. Scott

check your timing belt

It depends on what you mean by "it won't start." Some additional questions/answers will help narrow down the problem. Does the starter crank the engine? Is it out of gas? (I had a vehicle whose fuel sensor failed in the FULL position, so we drove it until it ran out of gas but the gauge said it was full. I didn't realize it until we dropped the gas tank and it was extremely light-weight.) Is the fuel pump bad? (This can be checked by removing the fuel line at the engine, feeding the line into a container to catch the gas, and cranking for a brief instant; if fuel comes out, the pump is probably OK.) Various sensors, if bad, will also prevent starting. One notorious sensor for causing this problem on VW's is the crank position sensor. Typically when this sensor is going bad, the engine will stall soon after reaching normal operating temperature, or you will be unable to re-start the engine if the engine is still hot; for example, you take a trip to the store, and you come back out and it won't start. Let the engine cool down, and it starts promptly. If this is the case, try replacing that sensor.

firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 coil packs should be numbered in the order they fire. from front of engine left side is 1 3 5 right side 2 4 6

I had a Kia Sportage that needed a key.It cost me about a hundred and twenty five bucks for him to do it.I guess it depends where you live.This was in Connecticut.I hope this gives you a round about figure.Good luck!

The parts dealer at your model dealership can make a new key for $25.00 if you have your ownership paper work, vehicle Id numebr and and personal Id. The coded chip computer keys may well be high priced but there is no reason for that,

I had a similar problem with mine. As well the engine would rattle just after stepping on the gas only. I suspected rocker arms. Retorquing them did help with power but did not solve the problem. After tearing things apart, and my truck dying, I discovered the cause of the problem, the connecting rod bearings. 2 bearings where spinning and one was fused to the crank. The slop in these bearings was making all the noise. Interestingly the rattle always sounded like it was coming from the back of the engine or on the passenger side of the engine, not the bottom where I would have expected it to be coming from. I hope that helps.

I would check my distributer cables to see if they look worn or cracked. It's an easy $8 or so fix. Just remember which wire goes where. Color coded markers help with this. Also, check the cap. That's a little more expensive it's cracked

I dont know but i once hade a similar problem and it turned out the car needed a wheel alignment

You will have to uninstall the alarm and rewire the vehicle. It is likely the ignition wires are run through the alarm.

Replace the four capacitors in the computer or replace the computer itself

If it's for a starter, it's on the starter itself you'll see a big positive on it with ground and signal up front near radiator small round connected to big round is a starter with cylinoid If still not found websearch with year

If the unit ticks at idle and under acceleration then you have to do some testing. I suggest the following:

Check the oil level first. If the oil is old change it. If that clears up the ticking then you've been too long between changes. Bolt up an oil pressure gauge to determine if low oil pressure is the cause. Oil pressure is typically spec'd by the manufacturer and if the pressure is low then one has to assume the oil pump is failing.

If the oil pressure is good and the noise is still present use a plastic tube as a "stethescope" to localize the noise.

Low on the engine indicates main or rod bearings. Mains generally do not tick, they more likely thunk or klunk so bet on rod bearings.

High on the engine (head, valve cover area) indicate valve train noise. In a newer engine it's probably a worn/broken hydraulic lifter. Time to pull the cover and inspect the CAM (if OverHead Cam) and lifters. If you determine that the engine is worth the repair secure a set of lifters and install them.

If the noise occurs only when rolling then determine if the noise changes (gets louder) on left and right 90 degree turns. If this is the case then rebuilt axles or CVs may be in order.

If you go the repair route buy the manual for the car. I recommend Haynes or Petersens, I have found Chilton's manuals to be wanting.

To complicated to answer in this space. Buy yourself a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual for this specific car. There will be detailed instructions for most DIY repairs. Any auto parts store will have them. 1 Disconnect wire from battery 2 Disconnect 2 wires from starter 3 Remove small bracket that is bolted from front of starter to block 4 Remove 2 bolts holding starter to engine block (8 inches long) 5 Catch starter!!!

Probable cause is the contacts inside the ignition switch are dirty or worn out. Some switches can be opened and the contacts cleaned quite easily, whereas others can be more difficult. Only 100% fix is to replace the switch part of the ignition switch assembly.

sounds like you have put the code in wrong too many times, disconnect then reconnect the battery, make sure you have the correct code, then it will work.

Just about all GM cars have a Vats theft system in stalled on them. The little button on your ignition key (the black plastic tab/button with a silver pin is a resistor. when you put the key in ignition this resistor is checked for the correct resistonce (there are 15 different ones) Any way if there is dirt on key or inside the igniton switch the Vats system thinks your tru to steal your car. It resets after the three minents. The key seating in the switch for these 3 mins will probly make enought contact to read the risitor correctry. All you have to do is spray some contact cleaner on key and into the igntion key hole. some times just some WD 40 will clean it enought. Hope this helps, Ben Parker, San Jose,Ca. I've had a 97 Olds Achieva since August 2005. Ever since the beginning I've had problems with the security light/starting problem. Invariably when I needed to go somewhere or was in a hurry it would cut out and wouldn't start, or I had to wait 7-8 minutes for the security light to stop blinking. Just this last week the solution came! First off, if you turn on the key and if the lights on the dash lights don't go on, wait until they do. When they go on, if the security light is blinking, wait until it stops. Then wait until the bell stops ringing. Wait until the 'groaning' sound stops. Wait a few seconds more. Then without turning the key off, start the car without pressing on the accelerator. It's worked every time for me the last couple of weeks. C Aaron Salt Lake City, Utah

Check your battery first, and if not your starter or ignition switch, after that, it's something more serious.

My 1995 ford taurus se, 3.o v6 was running in park to check if it was overheating, its not. While leting it run I was pounding out a dent over the rear passenger side tire that was rubbing a the tire. The car just died, full tank so not out of gas, it will try to turn over, but won't catch and start. Could I have triggered a special safety action, comprimised the computer, or messed up the fuel relay switch?

Just try different sizes until you find the right size. It will not be metric.

Sounds like the contacts are worn or burned for the ignition lock assy. Autozone has an ignition switch assy. but depending on whether you have a manual transmission model or automatic transmission there's a big difference in price.

under the engine on the right side you'll see a coffe pot looking item that's the starter

Depending on how old it is you should sell especially if those are the first problems I have a 94 ford ranger i have spent more money fixing it then what a bought it for