Check Engine Light

Sounds like perhaps the cats and exhaust pipes may not be bolted together tightly enough. If they are loose and banging around (even if you can't hear it), it could be setting off the engine's knock sensor. In that case, the vehicle's computer thinks that a combustion event inside the engine referred to as "knock" could cause damage and will retard the vehicle's timing to prevent engine damage. This significantly reduces power. Best way to find out is to connect a scanner to the DLC and check the history codes.

Unfortunilty there are no "emisions lights" on Honda Civics. However there are "check engine light" or "malfuntion indicator lamp". They can be on by many reasons including Engine knock, or something as simple as a loose gas cap.

Pull the codes from the computer with a scanner, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.

Depending on where you live, you can pull into any AutoZone store. They will read the codes from any OBDC2-compatible car, FOR FREE.

See http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/reliability.aspx?year=1998&make=Dodge&model=Durango . Under "Brakes". It's probably the Rear Axle Speed Sensor. Easy Fix. Do-It-Yourself. Search this site or Google "Replace rear axle speed sensor 1998 Durango"

You have to take all the facia off the dash - and then pull the dash cluster out. It is a long hard job for a light bulb. When you take the dash out don't forget to undo the speedometer wire and then the wire plugs on the left and right upper sides of the dash unit.

While I am in no way a mechanic, I can tell you that I had this problem before. The first thing I did was to make sure my Gas Cap was on tight. If your gas cap is loose, the "check engine" light will come on after a while. After about 150 miles, the light went off. I think it has something to do with re-setting the sensor...Hope this helps.

No. Codes are stored on non-volatile memory and clearing them requires a suitable fault code reader/scanner or computer with diagnostic software.

On some vehicles yes, others no.

Trouble code P0745 means:Pressure control solenoid malfunction

P0010-P0099 are Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls. The P0013 engine light code is caused by a circuit fault of the VCT (variable camshaft timing) system. It deals with high and low voltages. If the voltage goes out of the preset range the light will come on. The possible causes for this are within the solenoid valve, the vehicle power circuit, the computer system, or have to do with the voltage being out of range. You need to check all of these, and is a diagnostic rule out (have to check any or all of these to find the problem), I saw someone answered with what the light stands for, but really how many people know what that is. Just had to answer it in non-car mechanic terms terms.

You use a scan tool after repairing the cause of the code.

Repair the problem then use an OBD2 scan tool to reset the light.

The check engine light is on because the ECU has detected a problem with the emissions system. Have the ECU scanned to retrieve the code that has been set. This code will tell you what part is being affected but not necessarily the defective part. It takes a trained technician to determine what part to actually replace.

The ECU has detected a problem with the emissions system. Most auto parts stores will scan the ECU for free.

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There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

Hey Varghese==Go to Auto Zone and have the codes read free and that will gine you some help on what is not functioning properly. goodluck, Joe My '98 HX check engine light turned on and I found I'd been driving with low oil level. Oops! Put some oil in, and a few days later I noticed that the light had gone out (it stayed lit for several days). Either the light burned out, or the problem went away. It's been more than a year and after 95,000 miles I've still had zero problems with the car. Multiple "faults" can cause the check engine light to activate. Probably the most common cause is leaving your gas cap at the station or not tightening it fully. However, in my experience as civics grow long of tooth they most often throw a code for a bad Oxygen sensor. These are sometimes difficult to replace as they generally are seized into their threads due to the heating and cooling cycle over the years. You'll also normally need a special socket or wrench to change them out. Back to the codes. If you have a Haynes manual (highly recommended if you're going to work on the car yourself) it'll show you how to jumper the computer connection under the passenger side dash with a paper clip to which will cause the check engine light to flash a code corresponding to the computer fault. Good Luck, your Humble Home Mechanic

While the engine light can mean a variety of things, it could simply mean you are low on motor oil.

It could also mean that your oxygen sensor is bad. Disconnect the oxygen sensor and see if the ENGINE light goes out. If it does, you have discovered the reason why it went on to begin with. You can run your car without an oxygen sensor hooked up, but my experience has been that you do not get nearly the same milage as you would with it hooked up. It could also mean that your gas cap is not on or not on tight. A gas vapor leak triggers the Check Engine light.

Take it to auto zone and have the codes read free. This will tell you what quit probably the speed sensor which is on the trans. I have this same problem from my 1995 Stratus, I've been told it's the speed sensor, there are 2 sensors, (input and output) they run about $20 at an autoshop.. trying to find where there located with out the manual is another thing! ;) Anyone? I would say it is the output speed sensor located on the transmission. If your standing in front of the car looking at the car it would be on your right hand side. There is 2 on that side and its the top one. I changed mine by reaching up from underneath the car. Try installing a new gas filler tube gas cap. My "check engine" light illuminated, the transmission started shifting erratically, and my cruise control would not work. I installed the new gas cap and it fixed the problem. It seems that they all work in conjunction with the vacuum system--which the old "O-ring" on the original gas cap had gone bad and theere was a leak in the vacuum system.

See the dealer/

I got this code because the pipe that connects to the exhaust maniford broke. The secondary air was not being forced into the exhaust stream so the O2 sensors were not seeing the right flow. This was accompanied by louder than normal exhaust noise. While I llok for a replacement pipe, I covered the fitting on the exhaust manifold with a 1/2" flare cap.

The first thing that comes to mind is the catalytic converter plugging up after driving a short distance and clearing itself after sitting for a period of time. Take it to a muffler shop for an expert opinion. The plugging of the converter would cause a huge power loss and the resulting restricted exhaust gasses would cause your check engine light to come on since the oxygen sensor would be giving the computer bad information.

Most auto part stores will scan to determine problem for free

I recently had this happen on my 2000 Camry. It could be several things. Gas cap not on tight enough, make sure it clicks numerous times before closing the latch. Gas cap needs replacing or there is a pcv valve that can go out.

Trouble codes are numbered from 100 through 1780 and the "Check Engine Light" can reference any one of them. As mentioned above drive your car (assuming it's drivable) to a local auto supply store where they'll loan you an ODB II scanner. You plug it into the ODB port under your dash (to the right of the steering wheel post) and follow the instructions. You'll be shown the code and (usually) the actual fault. Again, as noted above the issue could be as simple as a loose gas cap or bad spark plug or as pricey as a clogged catalytic converter.

The scanner will also let you clear the code which is handy if the problem was a simple one.

Cheers