Check Engine Light

A flashing check engine light is due to a condition that is causing catalytic converter damage. Normal cause is a severe misfire

Yes. Replace the cap. Why have your car sitting beside the road because you did not put the gas cap back on when you filled up?

I called three different places that do TX inspections (firestone, wylie goodyear, and christian brothers). They all said that the SRS light being on WILL NOT effect the inspection. Meaning you will not automatically fail due to light being on. They said that it is not part of the inspection process. Which is a huge relief because for my ACURA the SRS is no longer under warranty so the test alone will cost $100, and it has to be done by a dealership. :/ Now since it doesn't HAVE to be fixed, I am planning to wait till I have some extra cash! If you have less than 150,000 miles on your car, the SRS is probably still under warranty, so it is worth calling your dealership about. Hope the helps and good luck!

Because the computer has detected an emissions related malfunction and set a code.

you have to hook up a scaner and press code reset or a auto zone store will do it for you

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.

On some vehicles, (including 88-> Ford products) the 'Check Engine' light is timed to come on at around 60k miles, even if there are no problems. It's part of a maintenance scheduling system. There is often a microswitch which will allow the light to be reset, but the placement and operation of that switch varies by vehicle make and model. A technician at a smog inspection station tried to set me up for a $500 triple oxygen sensor replacement job because of that light.

I have had the light come on when I had a headlight out. me too. 9/15/05

I once had the same problem in my 89 Sunbird turbo. The computer "ECM" went bad and the speedo stopped working. I would see what ECM codes you have causing the check engine light and go from there.

You must take the battery cables off for about 15 mins. Then connect cables again. Light should come on a few seconds when starting then cut off! If it comes back after a few miles or so..you have en emmissions issue.

I am not sure of the other 4 reasons But in my experience the top reason your check engine light comes on is because your gas cap isn't tightened all the way.

I have the same issue with my car and I had to replace the cylinder (no. 4 of course)

Locate the DLC Diagnostic Link Connecter(That where you plug in the scanner) and use a U shaped piect of a paper clip and connect the A and B terminals That's the two on the upper rightCount the # the check engine light flashedItll flash once then twice That's Code 12 meaning good communication from the computerItll flash Code 12 three times then go to the next code flash it 3 times and when done with all codes itll flash code 12 three more times

The easiest way is to visit a local Murrays or Autozone. Either store will perform a free diagnostic and reset if asked. Its a free service and I use it whenever my "check engine" light comes on for any vehicle.

It means the same as on any other car on the planet. Nothing wrong with your engine (probably) the light is all about your exhaust emissions system. Amazingly enough, the most common reason for that light coming on is that you did not tighten your gas cap enough clicks when you last filled up. Sometimes when you next fill up and tighten the cap properly it will clear the light because the tank is pressurized again. SOmetimes the light needs to be reset. AutoZone will "read" you computer and confirm what the light means if you still have trouble with it. Unless your car is driven at 20mph everywhere, your catalytic convertor is probably ok Phil

Yes, it can turn the light on for the wrong oil.

An error code in the engine control computer. Try this.....have pen and paper ready then turn the ignition switch on (not start) and off 5x....the error codes should come up in the odometer readout. You may google the error codes or call the local auto parts store to figure out what they mean. If the codes do not come up just take it to Autozone or O'reilley's and have them hook it up to the code reader. Its a free service, they'll also tell you what the codes mean at that time.

The engine is overheating - see a mechanic for a professional diagnosis .

it means you need to connect it to an odb 2 computer and get the code for whats wrong

Depends on the year - earlier models will reset just by disconnecting the battery

From 1995 onwards you will need to use an "OBD11" reader which inserts into a socket/plug located under the driver side instrument panel.. You can then run through the test sequence and display the fault code/s . Then you can reset. You can find a reader at many auto part stores. They can range in price from inexpensive to very expensive. You should check at Harbor Freight stores if you have one. they sell an inexpensive model that will do the trick.

The computer has detected a malfunction. You need to have it checked for codes. You can then diagnose the code.

Repair the problem first. You can try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. If that does not work you will need an OBD2 scan tool.

check your oil level. when the engine is not reved up ( at a light ) the oil in your pan settles which if level is low enough will turn your check oil light on

See answer 1 in "Why does my fuse keep blowing,?" and answer 2 in "Why would you keeep blowing headlight fuses but dash lights still work?" These answers discuss fuses, their purpose, how they work, and the reason(s) that they "blow." The short answer is that you have either an "overload" condition on the circuit in which replacement fuses continue to fail or, a "SHORT CIRCUIT." Your question indicates that you have not been able "to find" the cause, but if there is no "extra" electrical load which has been added [such as sound equipment, for example] to that circuit, then it is almost certain that there is a short circuit fault. The fix is to locate the fault, and correct it [as for example, to replace or reinsulate a wire in which the insulation has "chaffed off" on a grounded sharp, bare metal edge]. Good luck. j3h

That is a code for a problem in the theft alarm or chipped key system.