Chevy Astro

fuse block driver side to left of brake pedal just a little higher

The repair is to replace the entire hinge assembly.

You should first look at your distributor closely because astros are known for having pick up coil problems. next is cylinder pressures.

Cylinder pressure is probably the last thing to look at. If you are just having a rough idle you need to start with new spark plugs and wires. Clean out the throttle body. If there is no improvement from that then check for vacuum leaks and proper EGR flow. 4.3 Chevy engines are known for egr issues. Is the check engine light on? could even be an oxygen sensor problem.

When you say blinker I assume you mean the trafficator/Hazard light?? If so then it is actually the Hazard switch which is located on the panel by the gear lever.

If you have the serial number of the car that the engine originally came from, there is usually certain letters or codes which correspond to the motor. Also, if you do a little bit of research you might be able to translate any codes or stampings on the motor itself. This will only be helpful if the motor is still at the original specs and has not been modified or rebuilt with different components that could alter the compression ratio. If you are totally unsure of the history of the particular engine, you can't find any stampings, or if its had any work done to it that could alter the compression, then you almost certainly must dissemble and measure all of the cylinder volume divided by the compression volume at top dead center of the piston travel, this includes combustion chamber volume of the cylinder head. Therefore if one cylinder has a volume of 50 cubic inches and the compression volume is 5 cubic inches, the compression ratio is 10:1, unfortunately this can only be done by really disassembling the engine, so sorry. just to be sure you really don't mean a regular compression test. that can be done with a gauge screwed into the spark plug hole. This regular compression test is done to each cylinder and is most useful to determine if any cylinders have substantially lower compression than rest. This could indicate a problem with the head gasket, valve train or piston rings. The readout from a regular compression test, done at the spark plug hole, is in Psi and can not really be used to determine what the compression "ratio" is.

You can find a wiring diagram for your 1994 Chevrolet Astro Van stereo at most Chevrolet dealerships. The stereo wiring diagram can also be found at your local library.

location of 3 sensor of 97 Chevy astro van?

I am wondering how the compressor on my 1993 Chev Astro comes apart, I have someone who will repair this for me but he is unsure as to what is involved by taking it apart.

I experienced this and discovered that the main coil wire from the coil pack (distributor module)was rubbing against the underside of the dog house (engine cover). The wire was worn almost flat at the point of contact. Thus causing the ignitin to short out. I replaced the wire and all is well. My 1998 Chevy G1500 conversion van has some of the same parts as your Astro. I had these symptoms and eventually the van cut off and stopped running completely. Call your local auto parts store and see if they will loan you a code scanner for the OBD under your dash by the steering wheel. You can plug the reader in, turn on the car, follow the reader's instructions and retrieve any trouble codes that might relate to the stalling. There may be no codes present, however, if the problem is the computer itself. I had to replace the ECM (Engine Control Module). The battery was fully charging and the voltage remained constant. The plugs and wires looked healthy. The distributer cap had no cracks and I had no other warning symptoms. The car simply died from time to time. Usually, it would restart and run fine after letting it cool down. I removed the ECM and opened it up to inspect the greenboards. There was a burned out section on the greenboard. I removed the knock sensor and bought a replacement ECM. The knock sensor had to be put back in the new ECM and the ECM had to be reprogramed specifically to my vehicle's VIN number. I had the part supplier program it for me for $70 I bought the mid-priced ECM in case the thing burned out again due to me missing the burn-out cause. After the replacement, there is an anti-theft, security override process that you have to follow so that the vehicle will start. Put your key in the ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The "security" light on the dashboard will flash for 15 minutes. When the security light stops flashing, turn the ignition cylinder to the OFF then back to the ON position. The security light on the dash will flash for 15 more minutes. When the security light stops turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back to the ON position. The security light on the dash will flash for 15 more minutes. After the security light stops flashing for the third time, the new computer has been programmed to the recognize your key again.

there is a round black canister [softball size]down low behind passenger headlight the hose you want comes out and goes over top of the engine you need to remove inside engine cover to get at it. it will be dry rotted if you can find hose small enough replace it dealer will cost alot. i did mine works great

The 1999 Chevy Astro horn relay switch can be found on the back of the horn. The relay switch will be attached to the horn with two retaining screws.

I just did my '95 Grand Voyager today. The starter is on the front , bottom of the engine almost dead center left and right. If you are real skinny, you could do this job without raising the front end. I am not, so I had to jack the front up about 4" so I could get under it. (Don't forget to set the parking brake, put the van in park, block rear tires and use jack stands in case it tries to shift or fall. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery before starting this job. There are three wires to the starter. Two positive wires are on the left end of the starter facing the front of the van. Remove these two before removing the starter bolts. One is the starter cable (large wire) the other is the solenoid wire (smaller wire). The starter cable is a ring terminal down in a boot on the rear of the starter. I used a 6 point 1/2" socket on it. It is probably a 12mm or 13mm metric nut but I didn't have a metric socket. The solenoid wire terminal is in a plastic housing that snaps into the starter terminal just beside the starter cable. The locking tab for the plastic housing plug can be released by pushing up on the locking tab with a small screw driver and pulling on the plastic housing with a pair of long needle nosw pliers. (I don't recommend pulling on the wire that snaps into the plastic plug) The Third wire is a ground wire that was under one of the starter bolts. I almost missed this when I put the starter back in. There are two bolts holding the starter. They are 15mm. You get to them from the right side (facing the front of the van) The bottom one is just below and in front of one of the trans. huosing bolts. you can get to this bolt from the top of the engine. To remove the bottom one you will need preferably a 15 mm socket and about a 6"-8" extension. (I used a 5/8" 6 point socket as I didn't have a 15mm socket). This bolt is in a tough location because of cables and hoses. Just takes patience to thread the extension through all of the hoses and cables to get it straight on the bolt. Make sure where the ground wire is when removing these bolts so you will know where to put it back. I am not sure which it was under as I didn't notice it when I took out the bolts. The second starter bolt is higher and more to the front. It is in a tighter location than the other as far as getting your fingers in there to take it out. You will probably need to get to this one from under the van. I used a 15mm box wrench. It took a lot of moving the wrench but was not bad. Again there is a wiring harness that runs right across the opening to get into the bolt that makes it hard to reach and turn. When you get the starter bolts out, the starter comes out toward the left side (facing the front of the van). This was the simplest part of the whole job. Check and clean the starter cable and solenoid wire terminals before installing the new starter. This will make sure the new starter has good electrical connections and there is no excessive voltage drop due to corrosion or dirt. The starter goes back in the reverse of the way it came out. There is a metal plate between the starter and the engine. Make sure this is in place and aligned properly when puting the starter back in. ( I knocked it out several times bumping it with the starter. Some good masking tape will help hold it until the starter is seated, then pull the tape loose. With the right tools, this can be done easily in 1-1/2 to 2 hours. It takes a lot of patience as the starter bolts are hard to get at to take out and to put back in. I hope this information helps someone. It took me a while just to find where the starter was located.

This is normal. Only one fan is suppose to work with the A/C on. The other fan works when needed.

1997 Chevy astro van.

0. make sure gas is almost empty, easy to handle.

1. remove gas fill tube, 2 screws at cas cap and 1 bolt at frame.

2. loosen 2 strap bolts, have floor jack with 1"X 6" board atop it ready under tank to support lowering about 6 inches from ground.

3. remove 2 wire plugs, one may need to be replaced, new one in box with fuel pump.

4. remove fuel line, 2 have internal clamps, toss and get new ones, two different sizes. old will not work.

5. lift tank off hanger that are towards passenger side, lower with jack.

6. pull out from under truck. leave in plastic protection pan.

7. remove pump , screw driver on snap ring, sides straight up.

8. install new one, remember o-ring :-)

9 reveres process.

You remove the horn button if its in the middle..

Or just remove the plastic in the middle of the steeringwheel.

Then take a 24mm i think and unscrew the big nut.

Then remove the wheel.

fairly simple, using a catch pan open the drain petcock on the bottom of the radiater and let the coolant flow out, I like to flush it pretty well so I run a garden hose in the open radiator cap, start the engine, and let the thermostat open and close 3 or 4 times until what comes out the petcock is mostly clear, you can run a radiator flush product in there prior to doing this is yours is getting clogged. Then start with 1 gallon of straight antifreeze ( you already have 1 gallon of water inside the engine to mix, then add premixed coolant until its full, fill up the reservoir and run the vehicle. Check several times after using the car until it does not use up the reservoirs contents, there should always be coolant in there up to the fill line.

Possible leaking hoses or water pump

The engine oil drain plug on a 2002 Chevy Astro van is located on the passenger side of the undercarriage. The oil pan with the drain plug is actually located behind the front bumper in this area. The drain plug is not at the bottom of the oil pan like most other vehicles.

Oil Pressure is not a

As you found out Chemicals are useless and in many cases snaking is not going to work to get rid of smells.

The water you do see is possibly the water in the trap that keeps dangerous sewer gases from passing through the trap is called the trap seal.

Water Jetting will scour the lines and remove years of build up soap scum that can cause bacteria growth that causes odors.

You can also try Hydrogen peroxide to kill the bacteria as it is harmless to humans and pets

The dipstick tube must be damaged/bent at the base.

I have a 1995 Skylark and that repair is at least $500.00 but it's worth it. The engine runs great now.

I would first check and replace the air filter. Then you can check for faulty vacuum lines. I would check the PCV valve on top of the valve cover. This can cause some screwy idling problems as well. Then check the plugs next. Run some good injector cleaner through the gas tank as well. Just some places to start. Hope this helps you. check vacuum hoses for cracks or wear,check dstributor cap,make sure cap is on securely and there is no gap between cap and distributor I had same problem cap was loose I tightened cap and problem went away