Chevy Impala

After your first 250 miles, and every 600-800 miles after that.

The fuel filter on a 2007 Chevrolet Impala is typically located along the fuel line underneath the car, near the fuel tank. It is often situated between the fuel tank and the fuel injectors. To access and replace the fuel filter, you may need to raise the vehicle and locate the filter along the fuel line. Be sure to consult the vehicle's manual or a professional mechanic for specific instructions.

very big job. the water pump must be first removed. you will need a t-8 torx bit for the rotor removal and a e-4 torx socket(reverse torx) drain coolant. remove serpentine belt. you may have to take out the electric fan. I did it without removing it but it was tighter. remove hoses from water pump. disconnect coolant sensor and unclip it from top of water pump. unbolt ignition coil bracket. unbolt and move airinjection pump. remve the 2 bolts holding the air injection pump bracket. remve water pump bolts and then the pump. remove the harmonic balancer pulley keeping note of the position of the arrow on said pulley.remove plug wires. remove the dist cap. remove rotor and replace it with new one in same position. replace with new cap and then reverse steps.

There were a total of 73,932 Chevy Impalas produced in 1967. Of those, 4,337 of them were four door models.

I have one and most of the folks on the Impala SS forum believe the speed to be 145. I've personally had mine to 144 and that was all of it. I have a few mods on mine as well. I hope this helps I had an 94' caprice LT-1 w/tow pack , Took off the top speed limiter in the pcm''STOCK'' w/catback exhaust .Went 145mph and was still going! Don't think it would do 150mph. But could hit 147-148mph if I stayed on it . I think any good running94-96 SS can run over 140+mph

The 2002 Chevrolet Impala LS uses HIR1 (9011) bulbs for its low beam headlights and H1 bulbs for its high beam headlights. It is recommended to consult the vehicle's manual or a professional technician for the correct replacement bulb.

A Chevy 409 distributor rotor rotates clockwise.

Rough acceleration in a 2001 Chevy Impala could be caused by issues with the fuel system, such as a clogged fuel filter or dirty fuel injectors. It could also be due to a problem with the ignition system, such as faulty spark plugs or a malfunctioning ignition coil. Additionally, a dirty air filter or a vacuum leak could also result in rough acceleration.

To fix a burned out light on the driver's climate control switch in a 2002 Chevy Impala, you will need to access the climate control unit, remove it from the dashboard, and replace the light bulb with a new one. This may involve taking apart the center console to access the climate control unit. It's recommended to consult the vehicle's manual or seek professional help if you are unsure about the process.

It is possible to replace the rear body mounts on a 1976 Corvette without completely removing the body, but it can be a challenging and time-consuming task. You may need to partially lift the body off the frame to access and replace the mounts. Having the right tools and equipment can make the job easier and safer.

The answer is simple. The block heater is probably in the 500 - 800 watt range. If it came on new car, your dealer should be able to tell you what wattage it is. KAT'S is known brand and can be purchace at http://www.partsamerica.com/BrandCategories.aspx?MfrCode=FIV stores The 15 amp curcuit you are plugging block heater into has nothing to do with the wattage of the heater. It is only a curcuit breaker that trips if more the 1800 watt is applied to it.

You would need to reprogram or replace the Engine Control Module (ECM) in order to disable the governor or rev limiter on a 1994 Mercury Topaz. This is a complicated process and may require professional assistance to ensure it is done correctly and safely. Keep in mind that removing these safety features can potentially damage the engine.

I personally don't know. This link is for one for sale. Visit their store and ask them. They should know. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1959-60-Chevy-Impala-headlight-switch-knob-542s_W0QQitemZ110128128030QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Good luck. Dave

4 1/2 quarts of 5W-20 weight oil.

This is not something that is really possible. You will need to either get the key or break into the vehicle.

Open the hood of your Impala and remove the negative battery cable with your socket set.

Sit in your driver's seat and look at the clear plastic shield that rests in front of your odometer and other gauges. You will have to first remove this shield.

Find the two screws that hold the clear plastic shield in place. They are located at the top rim of the shield. Remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the plastic shield out and set the two screws safely inside it so you do not lose them.

Place one hand on each side of the instrument board and jiggle it slightly util one side or the other moves forward. Pull the entire panel forward slightly. However, do not pull too hard, as there are an abundance of wiring harnesses attached to the back.

Locate the small, clear light bulb. Remove it with your finger and stick the replacement bulb in its socket. Replace the instrument panel and clear plastic shield.

Replace the negative battery cable.

You have to remove the door panel from the inside of the door,and then remove the door linkage from the inside of the door handle.

Next there are two bolts that you need to remove from the inside of the door handle,and then it will come off of the car.

The heater core is difficult to change on the Ford trucks. They have it buried in the plenum box and you have to remove the steering wheel, steering column, dash, evacuate the refrigerant system, drain the radiator, and remove the plenum box to get to the core. Replacing the core is easy, getting to it is a day's work.

You need to be sure that the heater core is really the problem before tackling this job. If you have a pool of coolant on the floor, you'll have to go after the core. If the problem is lack of heat, there are some things you need to eliminate before tearing into the truck. You need to make sure that coolant is flowing through the core. Check the temperature of the heater hoses going into the firewall when the engine is cool and see if they warm up together as the engine warms up. If both hoses get hot at about the same rate, this is a good indication that coolant is flowing through the core. You can also remove the hoses and flush the core with a water hose splice from Home Depot and a water hose. Water should flow unobstructed through the core.

If it appears that coolant is flowing and you don't have obvious leaks, the next step is to check the blend door. This door controls the air flow through the heater core and failure is common on Ford trucks. When the door breaks, it can block the flow of air through the core and kill heat and will also have an impact on AC. If the system seems to work intermittently, it's a good indication that the door is broken and rattling around randomly blocking or opening the passage to the core.

For diagnostic information on how to check the operation of the blend door and a cheap easy fix, check the heatertreater listing on Ebay or the web site at heatertreater.net. The dealer fix for the blend door is basically the same procedure for replacing the heater core, so it will be expensive. The HeaterTreater alternative will solve the problem at a fraction of the cost and work and is well within the capability of the average shade tree mechanic.

It should be located on the dash just up and left of the sterio near the instrument cluster

charger has more horsepower.

Most factory radios are not set up to be connected to amps. You can try a few tricks to get you started though... 1.) If you have access to the wiring harness in the back of the radio, look for two RCA jacks (male or female), and an orange or blue wire (remote wire) that wouldn't be connected to anything except the radio. If you do have these, simple extensions can be purchased to run those wires to any aftermarket amplifier. 2.) If the car/truck came with a factory amplifier (you would know if it did), you can simply remove that amplifier and have full access to all wires needed for an aftermarket amplifier. 3.) If you were feeling up to the challenge, you can disassemble your radio and look for a pre-amp. After a few modifications, you can wire the aftermarket amplifier through the original pre-amp. 4.) Last but not least, most aftermarket amplifiers need only a few wires to get started. A power wire (RED - always hot), a remote wire (Most of the time a BLUE wire - only has power when the radio is on <<hook up to a toggle switch in this case>>), and your audio inputs. There are a few amps that do not require RCA inputs and you can simply split off an existing rear spear wire and tie in to the amplifier. If you need anymore assistance, feel free to email me SMHarris83@gmail.com

This is usually caused by a faulty passlock sensor requiring replacement of the ignition lock cylinder. To test:

Crank the engine momentarily (like you're trying to start it) then allow the key to return to the on/run position. Your check engine light should be on, and the radio should work, but turn the radio off if it's on, because you need to keep the battery charged.

Wait fifteen to seventeen minutes, then shut the key off and remove it. Then wait fifteen seconds (or longer) and start the engine. If it starts, you need a new lock cylinder. With the engine still running, press the key straight in. If the car stalls, you need an ignition switch also.

Here you go, Doesnt say what color the pre-amp remote wire is tho, Unless it the Antenna Trigger wire.

http://www.modifiedlife.com/2000-chevrolet-impala-car-stereo-radio-wiring-diagram/

(1)If the truck is equipped with manual windows, remove the window regulator handle. (2) If the truck is equipped with power windows or door locks, remove the switches by removing the screws for the power window switch and the other switch connectors on the back side of the door trim finish panel. (3)Remove the screws from the armrest area of the door panel. (4)Remove the inner door handle. (5)Remove the screw (if equipped) at the lower rear of the door panel. (6) Lift the panel at least 1-1/2 inches to disengage it from the slots along the bottom of the door, then remove it. (7) If necessary, carefully peel the watershield from the door. Be careful not to tear it. (8) Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. - Mazda Pickups Repair manual

The 2000 and up Impala's have a feature called RAP or Retained Accessory Power. This allows you to operate your radio and windows without the key or car being on for 10 min after you shut off the engine opening the doors will shut off the RAP and you will need to turn on the car again to roll up windows and such. I don't know what the cause of it is but we had that happen one day about 3 months ago. Prior to it not shutting off we got "garbled" reception from the radio..then when we parked the vehicle and started to exit the radio didn't shut off. We found the fuse (in the fuse box on the passenger side) and pulled the fuse and put it back in. We havn't had a problem since. Doesn't help you with the "why" questions but may help others from a dead battery. Karen