Chevy Impala

It should be located on the dash just up and left of the sterio near the instrument cluster

charger has more horsepower.

Most factory radios are not set up to be connected to amps. You can try a few tricks to get you started though... 1.) If you have access to the wiring harness in the back of the radio, look for two RCA jacks (male or female), and an orange or blue wire (remote wire) that wouldn't be connected to anything except the radio. If you do have these, simple extensions can be purchased to run those wires to any aftermarket amplifier. 2.) If the car/truck came with a factory amplifier (you would know if it did), you can simply remove that amplifier and have full access to all wires needed for an aftermarket amplifier. 3.) If you were feeling up to the challenge, you can disassemble your radio and look for a pre-amp. After a few modifications, you can wire the aftermarket amplifier through the original pre-amp. 4.) Last but not least, most aftermarket amplifiers need only a few wires to get started. A power wire (RED - always hot), a remote wire (Most of the time a BLUE wire - only has power when the radio is on <<hook up to a toggle switch in this case>>), and your audio inputs. There are a few amps that do not require RCA inputs and you can simply split off an existing rear spear wire and tie in to the amplifier. If you need anymore assistance, feel free to email me SMHarris83@gmail.com

This is usually caused by a faulty passlock sensor requiring replacement of the ignition lock cylinder. To test:

Crank the engine momentarily (like you're trying to start it) then allow the key to return to the on/run position. Your check engine light should be on, and the radio should work, but turn the radio off if it's on, because you need to keep the battery charged.

Wait fifteen to seventeen minutes, then shut the key off and remove it. Then wait fifteen seconds (or longer) and start the engine. If it starts, you need a new lock cylinder. With the engine still running, press the key straight in. If the car stalls, you need an ignition switch also.

Here you go, Doesnt say what color the pre-amp remote wire is tho, Unless it the Antenna Trigger wire.

http://www.modifiedlife.com/2000-chevrolet-impala-car-stereo-radio-wiring-diagram/

(1)If the truck is equipped with manual windows, remove the window regulator handle. (2) If the truck is equipped with power windows or door locks, remove the switches by removing the screws for the power window switch and the other switch connectors on the back side of the door trim finish panel. (3)Remove the screws from the armrest area of the door panel. (4)Remove the inner door handle. (5)Remove the screw (if equipped) at the lower rear of the door panel. (6) Lift the panel at least 1-1/2 inches to disengage it from the slots along the bottom of the door, then remove it. (7) If necessary, carefully peel the watershield from the door. Be careful not to tear it. (8) Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. - Mazda Pickups Repair manual

The 2000 and up Impala's have a feature called RAP or Retained Accessory Power. This allows you to operate your radio and windows without the key or car being on for 10 min after you shut off the engine opening the doors will shut off the RAP and you will need to turn on the car again to roll up windows and such. I don't know what the cause of it is but we had that happen one day about 3 months ago. Prior to it not shutting off we got "garbled" reception from the radio..then when we parked the vehicle and started to exit the radio didn't shut off. We found the fuse (in the fuse box on the passenger side) and pulled the fuse and put it back in. We havn't had a problem since. Doesn't help you with the "why" questions but may help others from a dead battery. Karen

In the Underhood Fuseblock located in the Engine Compartment, just beside the Battery...

At the top of the headlight there will be two horizontal bars that are either chrome or black. The normal position for this bar is clipped into a bracket on the radiator support. To change the light bulb, pull the bar out of the clip toward the front of the vehicle. Sometimes prying with a screw driver is helpful. After removing the bar from the clip pull straight up while rotating the bar from side to side. After removing the bars the headlamp will be able to be removed from the vehicle and provide access to the turn signal bulb. Re-install in reverse order of removal. Don't you just love that phrase. Good Luck

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Automatic trans, 50K, standard trans, 100K.

Open the X5 hood. Locate the positive towards the back on the driver side. It is cover with a black + cap. Locate the negative on the body (look for a nut tied to the chassis)

connect the jump wire to the first car. Connect the negative wire to X5, then the positive red clip to the positive. Start the first car (if the battery of X5 is really dead, let the first car run for about 5-10mins. Then start the X5. Remove the jump wire in reverse order. Remove positive first, the negative.

Sometimes an ignition coils will break down under heat and not fire properly. Start there and see if it helps.

Billy

Two things:

The accelerator cable is frayed or sticking. Change it or lube it alot.

Your idle is too high. Have it lowered.

The problem could be some type of vacuam problem. That is what happened to our Explorer. Or maybe a throttle body problem?

if you mean accelerator sticking, I would check the throttle bore. The plate gets heavy carbon build up and should get cleaned every 18,000 miles.

On modern cars, idle is controlled by the Electronic Control Module. An increase in RPM without pressing the gas pedal is called surging. Have the ECM checked for codes and fix the problems it has noted. This should fix the surging problem. On my car, it was the Oxygen sensor. But it could be a number of other things also, including a vacuum leak.

Make sure your floor mat (not even a corner of it) isn't on top of the accelerator pedal. Even the slightest weight can cause the pedal to accelerate enough to be noticeable. The floor mat can slip forward (and has) in two of our new vehicles when we were driving on the highway. It had worked its way off the anchors and slipped forward, causing the vehicles to accelerate.

If it's an automatic transmission, it might be normal provided the engine performance is ok. Auto trannies have a torque converter stall speed. I have a 96 Cadillac Fleetwood and it will move on its own.

The 2000 Chev Impala has the 4T65E tranny in it. The neutral safety switch is inside the tranny and the tranny has to some out in order for it to be replaced. I just had my transmission rebuilt and I was there when the mechanic took it apart. While they are in there have them check the 4th output hub shaft, there are some very fine splines on the end of that shaft that get worn. They can wear to the point where the car is put into gear and it won't move.

The Relay is part of the Hazzard Switch as listed below. But before you go out and buy a new one, remove the old and give it a light tap. The reconnect to see if that will save you the $40 buck and a trip to the dealer. My 2004 stopped flashing and I did this and it came back to life. On my 2000 it is part of the emergency flasher. Hey Faye== It is under the dash on the left side of the steering column. Goodluck, Joe * The turn signals and emergency flashers are both controlled electronically. The module is behind the emergency flasher switch and requires partial disassemble of the dash to access it There are several screws: 2 on the ends under the fuse covers 2 on the panel under the steering wheel and 2 by the odometer Gently pull the face off the dash. Don't break off the clips. A replacement is about $40 from the dealer.

Remove the two phillips screws located directly under the turn signal assembly (standing in front of the vehicle, look just above the bumper). Slide the assembly forward, out of the vehicle body. Twist the bulb socket a quarter turn counterclockwise then remove the bulb assembly from the housing. Remove the bulb and replace it, then reverse the process.

Call a GM dealer. With the serial number of the car, he'll give you all the responses you need.

Have a nice day.

JMoney69

The time controls are what you use and you use the minutes first and then the hours. The vehicle has a default code found in the owner's manual.

Thank you, Rednek1986

First what year is it? If it is a 2000-2003 you will need to remove the dash pad itself to remove the cover for the radio. There are screws on both sides of the dash where the fuse panel is on the driver side and passenger side, also open the glove box there are two ontop in the front use a flash light to see them. Also the center air vent ontop of the dash has one or two that hold it on and maybe some underneth it. that should be most of them but check before you just rip it off. Next if you look across the top of the bezel (gauges and radio) there should be a few more. from there it should come right out. Then you should see what is left of the screws that hold in the radio…..

Any Cavalier that was made after and including 1995 requires you to remove the dash to get to the stereo. There's no way around this short of prying at your dash and hoping it flexes enough to get the stereo out - if you try this method, which I've seen people do before - you've got about a 1% chance of NOT breaking something.

Do it right, remove the dash. Pick up a Chiltons or Haynes manual for $20 and look at the instructions in there. $20 for a manual is way cheaper than a couple hundred bucks for a dash.

You will need a "Torx/Star" drill bit or driver to remover these screws...

(STEP1-)Open drivers door

(STEP2-)Use flathead screwdriver to pop-off panel where the fuse door is. (Pop the whole thing off...not just the fuse door)

(STEP3-)Unscrew the screw closest to the A/C vent

(STEP4-)On top of your dash, there are 2 or 3 screws with the Defrost vent...remove them and the vent

(STEP5-)Open passenger door

(STEP6-)Repeat step 2 (minus the fuse door)

(STEP7-)Repeat step 3

(STEP8-)Open glove compartment

(STEP9-)There are 2 or 3 screws on the top perimiter of the glove box...remove them

(STEP10-)Using a long screwdriver or nutdriver (not sure anymore), unscrew the two "brass-looking" screws INSIDE the glove box(on the roof of the glove box) they are right in the middle. DONT DROP THEM OR THEY WILL BE GONE FOREVER! (STEP11-)That does it for the top part...just start pulling it off (If you here snaps, its normal. Because it is also held in by clips)

(STEP12-)Unscrew the screws all along the top of the front dash trim

(STEP13-)Now start pulling the dash trim away from the dash

(STEP14-)While it is off, you will have to unsnap the dimmer control (from behind) and unplug the cig lighter (From the back. Also, the actual lighter stays in the dash trim)

ENJOY! and yes, you have to do steps 1 thru 11. if not, you will not be able to get to the screws holding on the front dash trim. It sounds tough. After you do it the first time, its no sweat.

EJ48315:

1. Remove the four screws out of the back of the steering wheel and pull off the front cover / airbag assembly.

2. After removing the nut / washer / sleeve use a steering wheel puller to remove the hub.

3. Remove the turn signal assembly, should be 2 screws this will expose the ignition.

4. Remove the screw that goes through the backside of the ignition and the ignition should come right out.

Turn Drivers side fuel mixture screw CW until it Stop turning. (Lightly do not over tighten)

Turn Fuel mixture CCW 3 turns then stop. Do the same on passengers side.

Start engine Turn mixture screw as before CW until Engine Starts to stumbel then back out 1/4 turn. Do the same on other side. set RPMS ur good 2 go

It is more question than the answer. I have ABS light on all time and turn off light on also all time (talking about ther ABS brake system on Chevy impala 2001 ls 3.8.

I drive ok and brakes are ok. But light stays on makes me nervious all time. Someone said cut them to the hell! But I want to cut them off by right way: to understand why light on and how to stop the problem.

Pads are new? everything ok and there isn't any wrong in brakes working. Others say something here is dirty I need to clean for contacts. Other also say a unit ABS computer ar center.

No idea what reason !

Tell me please someone in order i can drive my car without being nerviuos on this reason all time thinking about that. Evern can't take a baby to the car she will say your brakes don't work we can't have the love on the hill tyou car can move from the hill itself to the river... Ha-ha-ha...

That all depends on what engine is in the charger, the Chevy only has 265 horse.

If it is coming from the rear of the car it is probably the fuel pump. Can be the fuel filter is partially clogged and it is working hard to pump the fuel. replace the fuel filter. Can be tire noise caused by a defect in the tire. Can be a defective wheel bearing. You need to isolate the hum. Or it could just be that your '04 Impala is happy.