Dodge Durango

on the 01, probably close enough to the same thing, remove the door panel, then you need the window about halfway down, there are two bolts that hold the window onto the regulator and two bolts on the bottom and two on the top of the regulator. it helps if someone can help hold the window, if not duct tape works pretty good.

It is very easy! Take off belt by putting a wrench or socket on tensioner pully and rotating it. belt will come right off. You will have to drain coolant. then take out all of the bolts holding the water pump on. you will have to remove the power sterring pump to get to the very back bolt. Make sure you clean old gasket off of the motor and install new gasket with sealer. reassemble in reverse order.

On '98s at least there is an access hole in the p/s pulley that gives you access to that last bolt

I found no access hole except through the power steering which was easier to remove than the PS pully that a pully remover does not have sufficient room. Two bolts top and bottom through the access holes for the PS pump and it is out of the way of the last water pump bolt.

http://www.tobio.info/passat/howtos/passat_air_filter.html

The SLT Plus is a trim package upgrade. Some think the SLT Plus option was the 3rd row seat - but that is not the case - that is also available on the SLT. Couple easy ways to veryify: SLT Plus had woodgrain trim on dash and door panels along with overhead console.

The 2008 Dodge Durango's turning circle is 37.0 ft..

The powertrain control module (PCM) requires three main steps for removal and replacement. The PCM for the 1999 Durango is located on the right front fender towards the engine bay. The ABS plastic cover needs to be snapped off. Next the wiring harness to the PCM needs to be removed. The PCM is secured to its frame mount by three bolts. Once these are removed the new PCM can be installed. It is advisable to clean up the housing and electronic connectors and housing before completing the install. The battery should be disconnected as always when working with electronics.

it is located under the dash board first squeeze the glove box and pull it off by taking off the 3 bolts on the bottom then take off the 2 bolts on the heater core cover once that is off just look to your right there it is

no. 5x4.75 and 5x120.65 are interchangable. these are also known as "small Chevy bolt patterns"

A po551 code is power steering pressure sensor circuit malfunfunction

Cylinder #7 Misfire

I just replaced my water pump on my 1994 Corsica. Not sure if it is the same as a 1996, but maybe this will help. Standing at the front of your car with the hood up, to the left is the serpentine belt. The "pulley" at the very top (the belt runs under it) was my water pump. It had 4 screws on the face of it. I used a screwdriver to keep the "pulley" from turning while i loosened and took off the screws. I then pulled the facing off and I think there were 5 screws holding the pump in. I took those out, and the pump came right out. Remember to clean the old gasket off before replacing new gasket and pump. I hope that helps.

Randy L.

You don't have to change the lock unless you are concerned that the person who stole your key is likely to steal the car. If this is a concern, either change the lock, get one of those steering wheel locks that also connects to the brake pedal, install a "hidden" ignition switch that will prevent the car from starting when in the off position , or just get good theft insurance

The Crank position sensor is located on the right side behind the wheel about midway up the motor eaiseier to get to from the bottom with 10mm socket one bolt

Look on driver side near the brake master cylinder.

Condensate forms on the AC coil as the AC runs for a while. AC units are supposed to have a condensate tube that's designed to drain the water. If the tube is plugged or otherwise damaged the condensate will back up and get into the furnace. To avoid damage you should make sure the condensate is draining properly.

on my 2001, if the same, the paneling just pulls off. i believe you start form the side. you can try feeling around with a screw driver or something thinner for the clips. just as long as you don't he-man it and break it off

on the back of the engine . above the starter 10 mm bolt holds it in.

There is a plastic tank mounted on the top of the radiator, there should be a yellow cap marked "coolant" on your right hand side, this tank also holds your washer fluid which is on the left hand side so be careful to make sure the cap you are removing is marked "COOLANT".... Once you pop the cap there will be a little dipstick located inside, youll check your coolant level with that. If the dipstick is missing youll want to fill the tank about 2 inches from the bottom of the tank lid.

6 lug 4.5" bolt pattern 6 lug 4.5" bolt pattern

Hi there

Had the same code and did some research after numerous trips to the dealer.

Bought a new Original MOPAR lockable gas cap at the dealer, nada.

Could have saved those 50 EUROs.

Bought a handheld vacuum pump with manometer for 30 EUROs and checked all the vacuum lines starting at the manifold. Found some small leak in the natural leak detection switch (diaphragm was cleaned and reset with some hylomar liquid gasket at the housing contacts, where some dirt tracks were found). Found some lines with cracks whcih were replaced, despite showing no vacuum leakage.

Purge solenoid was checked and worked as expected, same with the NVLD.

Code was purged, but did return after a few days.

Took the old original non lockable gas cap and dismantled such, since putting this one on again before did not solve the problem. Code came back.

Found a few areas of concern (vent valve seat, main O-Ring hardness) and expected the same with the "new" original lockable gas cap.

Turned to the net and spent 23.50EURO on a aftermarket lockable gas cap (CST5907).

Took it out of the box and found it to be different than the original MOPAR.

Different vent valve design, much softer main O-ring.

Lock works much better than the Original.

Put that one on, purged the code.

Has been a few months now and quite a few refills, code did not come back (yet?)

The NVLD system offers quite a few areas of potential failures, at least with our Durango it seemed to be the gas cap.

Best of luck!

this is all from memory so, FIRST, remove serp belt, by unloading it at the auto tensioner, i use 3/8"breaker bar, if i remember right, next, drain out, coolant into pan by pulling raid plug out. hold the water pump from turning by insert straight screwdriver between two other bolts, catching the two bolts, so as when you go to remove one bolt it pulls against screwdriver on other bolts, do that to break all 4 loose, remove pump pulley. right there you have pump ready to be removed, i prefer to use 1/4" drive stuff in here. I think theres 4 bolts. remove pump. clean surface good, apply small light coating of form gasket on gasket, place onto, align holes, install new pump, install is reverse of removal. its not a hard one to do at all - i'v seen WAY worse