Ford Explorer Sport Trac

It's honestly a better idea to just give in and go buy a new set of spark plug wires... You will tear them up and cause a dead short if you try and pull the caps off of the wires... most of them are glued on, and they can't take much pressure if you pull on them... sorry. Just buy new ones, you'll waste less time that way, and they are not really that expensive.

You could try to use "jumper" wires from a 12volt battery if it doesnt move them the motor is bad. If it does then the relay\fuse or switch is bad. Hope this helps you.

this is a very common condition with all diesel engines after they get broke in i,m assuming you have a generous amount of miles on it. when cold they run a bit rough after a while although injector issues can also cause a similar condition and seals and so forth seal up when warm. I'm a heavy truck diesel mechanic and a long time diesel owner if you see excessive oil consumption or the oil gets high on the stick get it serviced asap

After 1985, the wiper is a panoramic style - one big wiper. The motor assembly is located under the air intake grille, below the wiper. Remove the wiper arm - small plastic cover, bolt(s) underneath, slide off arm. Then undo the bolts/screws holding the grille on, some of which are UNDER the rubber surround - lift it up to expose them. There is an electrical connector box - disconnect this. There is a bracket that supports the wiper assembly, undo one bolt, then it should slide out/down into the heater air intake (below the wiper assembly) and then UP and out. At this point, its best to find a working one from an auto wrecker - the motor etc. from Mercedes is rather expensive!

A malfunction with the Anti-lock Braking System has been detected ( as long as the

red brake light doesn't come on in your dash you still have " normal " braking )

It could be a fuse , a sensor , or some other problem . In my case the first

ABS fuse that I checked was not installed all the way , I touched the fuse with

my finger , heard a click , and the ABS light went out . Just lucky I guess , but

also suspicious of how that could have happened

from inside trunk remove trunk liner to expose back side of lights locate screws and remove install is the reverse

Your local auto parts dealer typically stocks a cooling system flush bib that will connect your garden hose to back flush the heater core. Disconnect both the heater hoses at the firewall (they are located behind the A/C condensor on the passenger side of the car) and connect the kit you picked up from your Auto Parts dealer.

First off you should take it to a GM or qualified mechanic with a computer to hook up to your ALDL connector to read the codes to see if what the problem is.

Secondly you must remember that there is a billion things that could set that code off.

The first of many I would check is

EGR valve - very common and what happens here is that your truck will run like a John Deere tractor and stall and the brakes go limp and of course suck a 1/4 tank of gas in about 30 mins, just driving down the steet etc. To fix this clean your pintle valve out and clear all carbon from the valve itself, then clean the throttle body. Now listen carefully... this will happen again and again if you do not replace your EGR valve gasket with a clean screen from www.tomco-inc.com Yours would be GM Linear EGR Gasket Tomco Part #2-1357.

The very next thing I would check is the O2 sensor - go with the bosch but remember if its a 1993-94 then you only need one. 1995 or better you have two which are really difficult to get at.

to clear the codes if all is well is simply remove your negative ground for about 10 mins and then connect and start the engine. If you code is still there you are going to have to pay for the test which is around 45-50$ (CND)

beware that not all places can get into the ALDL terminal and GM might just be the best place to start as they made these money sucking pigs of a truck in the first place.

Good luck and let me know how you make out as I have some more resources you can use.

Cheers SCott

Go to a independent garage. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.

Remember that you can reset the check engine light by simply disconnecting the battery, however, this will only last for around 100-150 miles if ther is something wrong with your vehicle. If there is still a problem, it will come on again usually within that period of mileage.

If you are in a state requiring emissions, then don't bother doing it unless you know for sure it will stay off before taking it in and you have at least that amount of mileage on it. By resetting the computer, you lose all data (codes) and it will show up on the machine in the emissions place, therefore wasting $25 (or whatever they charge where you're at)

The Check Engine Soon Light is a sign something is wrong with your vehicle. Rarely does it indicate something wrong with the light itself, but that has also been known to happen. Whatever you do, do not ignore it because before you know it, the vehicle may not run.

I worked my through a similar symptom. However, it wsa accompanied by a Check Engine Light with OBD2 code as Lean Fuel Mixture on both the left and right banks (left and right rows of spark plugs). I troubleshot through ensuring all air oriented hoses (vacuum lines, PCV hose, caps, etc) were secureand in place. In my case, it turned out to be a cracked PCV Valve hose located around the rear of the 4.0 litre V6. 2 things can be done to check and troubleshoot, one of which is not HIGHLY recommended, but it works. First, the tedious and "safe" one. Visually inspect all areas that the block might be leaking air INTO the engine, thus bypassing the mass air flow sensor, not allowing the computer to accomodate EXTRA air that is "leaking" into the intake - the computer does not sense this extra air, so it does not allow for additional fuel to be injected to round out the mixture. Remove the PCV valve and plug the hole. If the engine runs smooth and seems to be okay (and it helps if you can erase the code at that point), it would then fall upon you to thoroughly inspect the PCV Vale hose assembly for leaks. Now, a way many might sneer at due to the method, but effective all the same, is the OTHER way. Get a can of starter fluid, and spray VERY LIGHT mists of the fluid at assorted areas that MIGHT be leaking. The engine needs to be running. If there is an inbound airleak, the engine revs will slightly increase, much as if you had sprayed it near the actual air intake. If you hear a slight rev increase, start inspecting that specific area. It may be as grand a fault as a leaky intake manifold gasket, or it could be as minor as that PCV Valve issue mentioned above. Of course, in your case, it might be something altogether different, so these bits of troubleshooting gems just food for thought and trial and error. Good Luck.

look for it on the driver side of the engine uunder the power steering pump reservoir.its a grey round unit that has one wire attached to it

Have vehicle scanned at auto parts to determine problem or clear codes Take off the P{lus side of the battery,that will reset it.

Hello: I am thinking of moving to Zimbabwe, Africa in 2010 & shipping my 2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with me. It will have about 100,000 miles at that time & have been covered by Ford's 100,000 mile complete warranty/repair coverage guarantee for the entire time. My question: Will I be able to obtain genuine Ford replacement parts & qualified repair work in Harare, the Capital city of Zimbabwe where I will be living? South Africa is adjacent to Zimbabwe with a common border: would I need to order parts through them instead? Does Ford Motor Corp. have linked business associations with Ford car dealerships in Zimbabwe either directly or through England which used to be the ruling colonial power in Zimbabwe prior to 1980? Does Ford Motor Corp have any parterships with any particular shipping line or in any way recommend a particular shipping line for such a projected voyage? Thank you for your help & advice.

The spark plug firing order for the Ford 4.0 L SOHC engine is : 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 The COIL PACK TOWERS are numbered : coil----3---4 pack---2---6 plug----1---5 The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : passenger side of engine , front to rear , 1 , 2 , 3 -----drivers side of engine , front to rear , 4 , 5 , 6

On my 2001 sport trac it is behjnd the backseat on the module

top of the fire wall under the hood your wiper arms will connect

Your truck has two coil packs. one on each side of the truck. I changed mine twice on my 99 expedition. I dont know the exact definition of the coil pack, but i know that they are related to the sparkplug and it's wires, and when they go bad they can cause a misfire with the sparkplugs. If you need to change them send me a message i can tell you how.

Check the switch. It has a different one than the regular brake lights. the light bulb could possibly be blown

Put the "O" ring on the line and lubricate it with a little silicone.

Most likely a bad ground (earth) run a new gronund wire from the back of the headlight. ...................... Additionally: Is the bulb glass broken? If so, you have moisture in the lens. If need be you can replace the entire module with bulb, both sides for about $45.oo.. Look up on E-bay and then check above listing for changing Lens Housing 94-98.. ^this answer is for a grand cherokee. With a Cherokee, you just replace the entire bulb (as you undoubtedly know already). On top of a bad ground, however, the wiring feeding the bulb could be bad and cause the issue as well (the headlights on my dad's 82 dodge omni were bright as day on the driver and dim on the passenger side; the passenger bulb had to be replaced once every 5 or 6 months until we rewired the connector, at which point it worked perfectly).

You have to remove the cover from the instrument panel there are three screws up by the windshield you will need a short screwdriver for two screws below the gauges and two screws under each control panel after the cover is removed you need to losen the instrument cluster it will only come forward a few inches after that you need to reach behind and twist the bulb socket clockwise half a turn and out it will come replace the bulb and try and get the socket back in the hole and put everything back together. BE PREPARED TO SPEND TWO TO THREE HOURS ON THIS!

How do you reset the "check engine soon" light on a 2005 Ford Explorer? I usually disconnect the battery.. for couple of minutes and reconnect the same. But I advise you to have this checked with the ford dealers or anyone with a computer console as the above is just a temporary solution. Its better to spend a couple of $ resolving a problem then $$$$ repenting over it !!!!

getting to the actuator is easy..... how to remove the rods attached to it is something else.....

Mainly Nissan and Toyota

can you tell me why my 1999-2000 Chevy trailblazer light is on