Ford Ranger XL

The 2.3 L - 4 cylinder engine has a timing belt

The 3.0 L and 4.0 L - V6 engines have timing chains

left 1,2,3

right 5,6,4......

if I remember correctly :)

The 12 volt power point is just to the right of the radio in a 2002 Ford Ranger

( if that's what you are asking ? )

Yes it did and the 1995 did also. In 1996 the shifter is in the console and it has bucket seats.

FORD BLEND DOOR FIX (EXPLORER, RANGER, EXPEDITION)

If your climate control only has two settings: HEAT and MAX A/C then the chances are this fix will work for you.

The fix was originally developed by FTE member jfranks � YOU RULE!

I paraphrased the blend door fix from jfrank and added some digital pictures I took when I completed the fix on my 1996 Explorer. His original fix document is available here: jfrank's blend door fix

Step 1:

Remove the glove box to gain access to the plenum. There is a release on the left hand side of the glove box.

Step 2:

Locate the actuator. The actuator is a flat white box that sits on 4 clip posts on the top left of the plenum. It has a wiring harness coming out of the front.

Step 3:

Remove the actuator. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry up the actuator. Pry up the front first and then put the screwdriver under it to pop up the back. (Note: I unplugged the wiring harness when I removed mine. If you also unplugged the wiring harness you will need to plug it back in before doing step 4).

Step 4:

On the bottom of the actuator there is a �D� shaped pin. Turn on the ignition and move the heater control on the dash. You should see the pin rotate (wiring harness must be attached!). If the pin does not rotate then you have a different problem (bad actuator, terminals corroded, etc). If the actuator does move, set the heater control to full heat and turn the blower on high. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. It moves the actuator to the correct position for the fix.

Actuator "D" shaped pin.

Step 5:

Using a small dentist mirror and flashlight, look into the top of the box where the actuator pin goes. You should see that the chamber is half missing. It should look similar to the drawing below:

Step 6:

They all break roughly in the same spot. If it looks like the drawing above then drill a hole (I used a 1/16 in drill bit) in the actuator pin in the location in the drawing below:

Step 7:

After drilling the hole insert a metal rod. I used a cut down finishing nail. Others have used a cut down drill bit. Be sure to have about 1/8 in on either side of the pin. Be sure it is snug in the hole.

Close up of fix. Drilled out with 1/16 in drill bit and cut down finishing nail.

Close up of fix - side view.

Step 8:

Snap the actuator back on the box. If the pin won�t go in fully then the rod may be in the wrong place. Remove the rod and re-drill the hole. Reinsert the rod in the new hole and try it again. You may need repeat this step several times until the actuator fits.

Step 9:

Once the actuator fits back in the box, try the heat controls. Go from heat to cool. If the temperature changes, Congratulations! You just saved yourself $1000!

Step 10:

(Optional) Take the actuator back out and put a spot of glue on the rod to keep it firmly in place.

there are pictures at http://www.blenddoorfix.netfirms.com/

The root cause of blend door problems on the Explorer is the motor overdriving the plastic blend door and eventually breaking the door. Once this happens, you lose control over temperature control of the HVAC system. Replacing the plastic door with another plastic door is a temporary fix...the door will break again over time. The HeaterTreater solution replaces the plastic components with steel that will outlast the Explorer, and is installed with a greatly simplified process of accessing the door by making a Dremel cut in the bottom of the heater box(no disassembly of the dash panel whatsoever). The fix is very easy and 100% effective. Check for more information at www.heatertreater.net, or by clicking on the Google ad on this forum.

cgallen

I just had this happen to me on a 96 Pathfinder. Here is the solution which i found on another site:

"corrected response: Pressing the door knob sensor 5-7 times within 5 seconds DOES WORK!!! The door knob sensor can be found on the frame where the (driver) door closes. It is a black coloured rubber button. Turn the ignition on (do not turn on the car though) and press the door knob sensor once almost every second for 5-7 times - Do not go too fast. And it should work. Do not give up if it does not work at the first attempt. It required five times for me... Once the flashing airbag light is gone, turn off the ignition. Wait for about 10 seconds. Then turn on the car and the airbag light should go off after a few seconds. Good luck!! Thanks a lot to the person who posted this first time... and also to people who subsequently confirmed the sucess of the trick. This saved about a hundred bucks!! Cheers!!! "

I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand am SE And mine made the same clicking noise from behind the dash as you described. There is a turn signal relay behind the dash and it will click for no reason especially after the turn signals are just turned off. The problem resides from the grease build up in the multifunction switch ( or turn signal switch ) located in the steering column which shorts out between the contacts causing the multifunction switch relay to click repeatedly. To remedy he problem remove two tork screws bottom of steering column. Leave the center one alone. Remove top cover to steering column. Remove center top tork screw to remove turn signal assembly. unplug the 3 wire harnesses. Now clean all the outside contacts with a Q-tip and alcohol removing the grease between all the contact grooves. Reassemble and make sure horn switch is located in the proper position. Just need to push the horn switch in a little (spring loaded ). Total time should be between 20 and 30 minutes. Don't let the dealer tell you that it needs a new multifunction switch @ almost $400.00 with labor. I solved my problem in 20 minutes and it didn't cost a thing!

Five quarts with filter change.

u-joints....cheap fix....

30kpa its on the inside right on the door on the driver side. ANSWER The information sticker for tire size and recommended inflation pressure is on the end of the drivers door - that is correct - pay close attention because the inflation pressures are stated in KPA ( kilopascals - metric system ) and PSI For example : The 30 kpa figure would not be correct because that is only 4.35 PSI 30 PSI would be 206.85 kpa

fuse box or heater box depends what side of dash

No fluid in the master cylinder

I'll give this a try COIL PACK NUMBERING : 3-----1 2-----4------- (spark plug wire order for spark plugs on passenger side of engine ) ------------------------------------------------------------- 4-----2 1-----3------- ( spark plug wire order for plugs on driver side of engine ) ( FRONT OF ENGINE ) ------------------------------------------------------------------ The engine cylinders are numbered 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 from front to rear The spark plug firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 )

Trouble changing gears, either upshifting or downshifting.

If you look between the lower, front, of the door and door frame, on each side, there is a small switch-button. It is small and looks like a stick with a spring wrapped around it. When you close the door, this cuts off the overhead light. If you take off your full, steel doors, then there is nothing to press on the switch and the over-head light stays on. The easiest solution is to look through a couple of the off-road jeep catalogs. They usually sell a small device that will clip over the shaft of the switch and it has a small clip which presses down the switch-button. You can also rig something at home - just anything that will keep that switch-button depressed. If you have half-doors or pressing the button down doesnt cut off the over head, it may be a faulty or worn out switch that doesn't work. Lots of auto-stores have generic switches you might "engineer" in place. Fuse box located behind glove box take #4 fuse out this is the power fuse for the int lights.

My son's '97 Nissan Sentra did not have a cable but a VSS(vehicle speed sensor). His odometer and spedometer did not work at all. We replaced the VSS and it now works. We bought the VSS for about $20 from car-stuff.com and my son and his friend put it in in about a 1/2 hour once they figured out where it was located. You will have to get under the car to do that.

no idea what dat is...sorry dude... :(

Look in the removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

with a crowbar

THE REAR MAIN SEAL HAS GONE BAD. THE PART COST UNDER $5.00 BUT TO HAVE IT DONE IS OVER $200.00

# 16 fuse - 30 amp - front wiper - according to the owner's manual in fuse panel on driver's end of dash - cover visible with driver's door open

yes

If you mean by "timing gears", putting on a new timing belt then it's easy: The top sprocket has a line etched in it. This line should be at 12 o'clock. The bottom pulley also has an etch on it also, this should be lined up at the little black pointer (located about 2pm). The trick is to tighten the belt so that when it's tension is correct, the top sprocket is set at 12pm and the bottom pulley line matches up with the black pointer.

One thing to add to get the belt on you have to loosen the three Allen head screws that hold the water pump in and turn the assembly in order to get the belt on and then twist it back to take the slack out of the belt. Once you do this reset the screws and you're done.

Starter solenoid? Jump the trigger wire (small) and the cable that runs to the starter