Ford Windstar LX

A rubbing sound when turning right in a 2001 Ford Windstar could indicate several issues, such as worn-out suspension components, a failing power steering pump, or problems with wheel bearings. It may also stem from tire interference with the wheel well or a damaged CV joint. It's advisable to have the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic to accurately diagnose and address the problem. Ignoring the sound could lead to further damage or safety issues while driving.

The rear module of a Ford Windstar is typically located at the back of the vehicle, near the rear suspension and tailgate area. It houses various components related to vehicle functions, such as lighting and electrical systems. Accessing the rear module usually requires removing the rear interior trim and potentially the rear bumper, depending on the specific issue or component you are addressing.

The code P0156 for a 2003 Ford Windstar LX indicates an issue with the oxygen sensor circuit for Bank 2, Sensor 2. This typically means there is a problem with the sensor itself, its wiring, or the connector. It could be caused by a faulty sensor, a short circuit, or exhaust leaks affecting sensor readings. Diagnosing and addressing the underlying issue is essential to ensure proper engine performance and emissions control.

No, a 1998 Windstar front end will not fit on a 2003 Windstar. The two models have different design specifications, and several components, including the grille, headlights, and bumper, were updated or changed between these model years. It's best to use parts specifically designed for each model year to ensure proper fit and functionality.

yes

Key won't turn or it does and the engine won't turn over?

Check your Crank Positioning Sensor. It's mounted to the top rear lip of the transmission, above the flywheel. You can see it from the rear of the engine compartment and it's virtually impossible to get to from the top. You can get to it from the bottom MUCH easier, with a couple extensions and a ratchet.

It is possible that your battery and\or alternator has failed. You have to have so much juice to get the safety switch to kick on so that you can move the gear shifter. Put in a new battery or charge the battery and I bet it will solve this. You should be able to take the key out any way. Good luck.

Ford dealer, service manual from an auto parts store, or off Ebay. Sorry, don't know of any freebees.

The clutch is master and or slave cylinder are bad

check your fuses
also try turning ignition on without starting engine. then with foot ob brake , put transmission in neutral
then start vehicle
this will usually over ride what ever was the problem if the fuses are all good

coolant fan not working change the temperature sender located on the engine ( follow the wires from the fan ) failing that the cylinder head could be warped check for water in the engine oil ( oil looks like mayonaise)or check if theirs any trace of steam from the exhaust when hot Try replacing the water pump too.

If you have a remote that locks & unlocks your antitheft system it could be as simple as resetting your remote, I had a similar experience.

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The same way you gap spark plugs for any car that uses spark plugs.

Undo the battery terminals and give them a good cleaning with a wire brush, it doesn't take very much corrosion for the side post terminals to stop working.

Possible solutions to a misfire in the 3rd cylinder of a 1996 Windstar GL 3.8L could include checking and replacing the spark plugs, ignition coils, and fuel injectors for that specific cylinder. It's also recommended to inspect the wiring and connectors associated with the ignition system to ensure proper connectivity. Additionally, conducting a compression test on the cylinder may reveal underlying issues with the engine's internal components.

I suppose that it would depend on the transmission used. I have a 1992 G30 (slowly falling apart with 251,000 miles on it) with the 4L-80 E Transmission (heavy duty 4 speed electronically controlled auto). There are two speed sensors, both on the left (driver's)side of the transmission. Both have a two-wire connector. The input speed sensor is located towards the front of the tranny, and the vehicle speed sensor is located towards the back. The input speed sensor measures the transmission's input speed (i.e. the rate that the engine is turning the input to the transmission) while the vehicle speed sensor is used for measuring the vehicles speed (i.e. the rate at which the rear wheels are turning). Its signal is also used for the speedometer - there is no speedometer cable going to the speedometer. Mine is currently busted - transmission won't upshift and speedometer reads 0. Replaced the sensor to no avail. Someone suggested that I check the ignition switch, as part of it might be broken. In general we have had a lot of problems with the electronics on this van, including wiring and connectors failing. Good luck with yours. Richard Rea

Hard to say. If you mean it keeps running after you turn the key off it sounds like it's all carboned up. The carbon (inside the cylinders) gets hot and acts like little spark plugs and keeps the engine running and knocking a while. If it does this all the time I suggest you do a compression check to see if it has a bad timing chain.

the bulbs could be out. if it has a trailer hitch on it and it was installed after market (not by the dealed), a lot of the time the marker lights to the trailer are spliced in to the licese plate lights and the type of conector that are used are prone to corosion. if that is the case just splice it together after the corroded wirer is remove and seal it electrical heat shrink.