Ford Windstar LX

0.35 but i prefer you gap it 0.40 if you wanna get the most power out of it

As far as I know, there was no Virago 1110; I suppose you're referring to the Virago XV1100. I don't have it's factory manual, but the Clymer service manual covers it, and according to that the spark gap should be 0.7-0.8 mm, as with most of these bikes. Actually, the required plugs (NGK BP7ES or BPR7ES, depending on who do you trust - the difference is an incorporated series resistor in the "R" plug) seem to come factory-set to that gap, but it never hurts to check, I guess...

Forget it. Those are NIGHTMARE systems. Switch to fuel injection. You will never be happier.

Are you talking about the accessory delay feature that lets you use the power

windows etc. for 10 minutes or until a door is opened ?

it will start leaking

Answer I found this great site about Nissan O2 and its location to fix with diagrams!

i have a fiesta azura and i needed a drivers door and passenger door i went to my local breakers yard and they supplied them and fitted them for 40 quid each

No for the 1995 Ford Windstar LX you are limited transmission wise to pulling one from a 1995 - 1997 where if you swap for a 1998 you need to replace the computer system as well.

From 1995 - 1998 the Ford Windstar line (base, wagon, LX & GL) used the transmission Ford build for the Taurus line. With the added 2,000 pound weight the vehicle holds the torque converted wears out fairly quickly and causes a third-gear ratio to come in to effect.

Should you decide to replace the transmission on any year above mentioned you best option is to have one rebuild for $1,500.00 - $2,000.00 depending on what state you live in as regards to labor prices. Make sure they either replace the torque converter with a brand new piece or rebuild it and that they aren't just swapping the transmission (some shops have been caught doing this) from another Ford Windstar with a year from the above mentioned because you will be stuck in the same place you are now.

Until you get to the point where the vehicle does not move out of the driveway I don't recommend replacing it. However if you are stuck with it being your family or commuter vehicle you should replace it so you're not stuck some where far from home with a larger problem.

From personal experience I can give you quick-fix to help the life of the transmission assuming you're reading this and already having issues.

- After reversing or starting off, shift in to second gear.

- Around thirty miles per hour left off the gas-peddle and shift in to drive. That should place you in to third where your problem is.

- At around forty to fifty miles per hour left off the gas-peddle and this will put you in to drive.

Keep in mind this method works from my experience and having it tested on other Ford Windstar's that have transmission issues but may not work for you. You can add 1/4 bottle of Lucas Stop Leak (the transmission shouldn't be leaking) to the transmission dipstick to coat the internal gears and stop a dry shift when you start driving in the morning. With this transmission the lubrication system is another reason they fail. But with the Lucas it should help. DO NOT OVER FILL THE TRANSMISSION or HAVE IT FLUSHED! This will be the end of the transmission if you are having problems with it now.

the rover 75 comes with the ftg unit inside the glove box. just unscrew the panel below (2 screws) and you will find the connector that plugs straight in and then feed it into the glove box (which is were your CD multi will be housed) when you get it.

Slipping or glazed belt?

Belt driven accessory (alternator/ water pump etc.)?

Belt tensioner?

If you are having any heating or a/c issues in your Windstar, be sure to check your blend door for functionality FIRST. The most common issue with heat or A/C in the late model Ford windstar is a broken blend door. A broken blend door actuator is almost as common as a broken blend door itself. Typically, the fix requires disassembling the entire dash and replacing the whole plenum box, which can be a costly repair.

on the end that attaches to the side of the back rest there is a zipper. open the zipper, then you can tighten the bolt that holds the arm rest in place. takes about

30 mins & your done. Make sure the arm rest is where you want it as you tighten the bolt.

It definatly has to come out the bottom. The best way to do it is to disconnect everything that connects the engine and transmission to the vehicle and drop the sub frame with the engine and tranny still intact.

It is a good idea to get a front end alignment after replacing and part of the front suspention.

If it is a 3.0 liter V6 EFI. Then it will be .044

60

Mine's on the drivers side valve cover, towards the firewall.

According to the Haynes Manual- 0.031 inch gap

.042 -.046 --------------------------------------------- Except the 5.0 L ( 302 cubic inch ) V8 - www.motorcraft.com shows .054 inch for it

I am sure it is in the left rear quarter panel. Try looking there. I really hope ya find'er, kills batteries. I just went through intsalling a stereo in my 96 Bronco, the amp is under the dashboard, to the right of the steering column. It is the small rectangular box closest to the firewall. I thought it was in the back too, since the wiring harness that Crutchfield gave me was long enough to reach back. After taking apart both rear quarter panels I called their tech support. Highly reccommend bypassing the factory amp with the plug-in harness.

You can find a vacuum hose routing diagram for a 1988 Mercedes 190e 2.3 in the owner's manual. You can also find it at various auto part stores.