Fuel and Engines

It would definitely not be possible to convert a gas engine into a diesel engine because the cylinder block and head would not be strong enough. A diesel engine needs a much higher compression ratio than a gas engine, which means the gas engine's cylinder block and cylinder head would probably explode under the higher pressure.

You would have to change so many things:

* the crankshaft, to get a longer piston stroke, because the compression ratio for gas is much lower than for diesel;

* the connecting rods and pistons * the cylinder head and camshaft to get the right valves and holes for diesel fuel injectors instead of spark plugs

* the fuel injectors and fuel pump - and maybe the tank too, to get the right vents and filler cap for diesel instead of gas * the exhaust system to get the right catalytic converter for diesel * the gears in the gearbox to get the right gear ratios to suit a diesel engine * diesel does not use any spark plugs so you would have be sure to use a safe method to disable the high voltage ignition system (which supplies sparks for gas ignition) and replace it by the right kind of electronic engine management unit to control the diesel fuel injectors * etc. In short, it would not make sense to try to do it from a cost point of view. You could perhaps buy a reconditioned diesel engine made to go in the same model of car, but, unless you could fit it yourself along with all the other bits and pieces, it would be far cheaper just to buy a secondhand diesel model of your vehicle and sell your present gas model.

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It all depends on what type of engine is in the motorcycle in question. A race bike engine will only last for one race and then have to be torn down and freshened up, this goes for dirt bike racers too. An older English bike is getting high mileage at 60 or 70 Thousand miles whereas a new Brit' will easily last for 150,000 miles if not further. A Japanese bike will get about the same, I have a friend with a 1970 Honda 750 Four that has over 300,000 miles on it and all he's ever done is refresh the top end and replace the cam chain. A Harley-Davidson should get to about 150,000 miles before the top end needs refreshing, IF it is taken care of and ridden sanely. Of course all of this information is relative to how the bike is ridden, how often it's oil is changed, if it is stored inside or outside, in a heated garage or not? Do you live in a dusty or wet climate, is the regular maintenance done on time, was the bike built on a Monday or a Friday? What are you like on Monday? On Friday? I take good care of my 1991 H-D FLSTC but I ride it like I stole it, I finally blew the engine just after it rolled over to 150,000 miles. Now it sounds like there's a hand full of ball bearings rattling around in the bottom end. That's the results of 200 Kms/Hr for 40 minutes straight. Fool me, so now I wait till I can afford to fix it. Tough question to answer, as there are far too many variables.

Out of probably 150 bikes I've worked on, maybe 15 had more than 50,000 miles. They were Goldwings/cruisers/Beemers. Most bikes just don't last much past 75,000. Sure, the motor may run...but the tranny, clutch, major bearings, suspension, etc. are shot. Not to mention most seals will leak. If a high mileage bike seizes up on you at 65 mph, you are going to have a bad day/life. High mileage bikes should go to the salvage yard for parts so no one gets hurt. Browse ebay, not many bikes over 75,000 miles....

I've seen several BMW motorcycles with over 500,000 miles on them. If you abide by the proper maintenance schedule, your bike will last much longer than the other guys here are telling you. 1955-1969 BMW motorcycles are STILL on the road because they have an engine disassembly maintenance schedule of 35,000 miles. This might sound like a lot, but it is one of the main reasons that these bikes go from father to son. They're not just motorcycles, they're heirlooms.

I have 250,000 kms on my 96 Gold Wing, I had a 85 1200 with over 400,000 no issues with motor,

I here theres a 2000 Gold Wing in Minnisota with over 800,000 on original motor?

cant beat that.

You call that an oil can or a barrel.

Been wondering that myself for years. I was just looking under my hood for an unrelated issue and it made the noise. I can't be sure the exact source of the sound, but I believe it came from something associated with the ABS system (according to the markings on the component the sound seemed to have come from). The mystery continues...

the AIV valve is dirty. This is a very common problem, your best bet is to remove the entire AIV box (located behind the airbox on the drivers side) via the 3 screws holding it in place, then remove and plug the 2 hoses that were leading to it. This is completely safe, and all it is doing is keeping exhaust fumes from entering your intake manifold. If this doesnt work, then try installing a new fuel filter, preferably one for a 1990 300ZX, it is a direct fit and will give you a better throttle response

350 hp 400 tq hp means nothing it is just what the engine is rated at. torque is the actual measure of power

Do you have oversized tires? There are several things you could try, if you have oversized tires try a clutch kit, you can find them online, cant tell you which one is best, but you can bet it will be on Highlifters website. Next you could try a jet kit. If I wanted more power out of my Kodiak those are the first two things I would do. If that wasent enough you can add new exhaust.

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Pre-ignition (sometimes called knocking or pinking) is when the fuel is ignited before the desired point in the cycle of the engine.

That is not just before tdc on the cycle, because alost every engine begins ignition momentarily before tdc, and as the engine speeds up - even further before.

In essence pre-ignition is an undesired ignition of fuel vapours which has the effect of slowing down the piston as it rises towards top dead centre.

Because it ignites before the proper time, it can damage the piston surface, cause wear in the bearings/gudgeon pin/little end, big end bearings or cause extra wear on the piston skirt or cylinder bore.

The other place pre-ignition can cause damage is on the valve seats/valve head.

Either way the engine has problems. It could be an advance issue (mechanical - distributor or electronic sensor - most modern engines have a pre-ignition sensor), bad fuel blend (too high octane), it could be as a result of a carbon build up in the head/valve area (which can cause a hot spot - a source of ignition for the incoming fuel)

If it's a modern car - get the pinking sensor checking at your local garage, if its an old car with a mechanical distributor - check the timing.

If you pull the cylinder head off (not recommended if you can't answer your won question) you can measure the inside diameter of the cylinder. This will give you the bore of the cylinder. The correct way to find out the answer though is to check a shop manual for the year, make, model and engine you're working on and GO BY THE BOOK!

In an internal combustion engine there is one piston per cylinder. Most automobiles have between four and eight cylinders and therefore between four and eight pistons.

I Think it gives the impression of a bad ignition module. Actually, I have this problem in Buick Regal, turned out to be the Crank Posistioning Sensor, which in my former vehicle, was very hard to change, located between oil pan and transmission. I had to take it out in pieces. Good luck!

It is a big job. If you attempt it, get a manual from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM

40:1 with high quality 2-stroke oil mix would be fine.

http://store.chainsawr.com/

To increase the speed of the engine, which is measured in 'revolutions per minute' - shortened to RPM or 'revs'.

with an octane mesurer

the 440 engine had 375 horse.

1. Engine compression perform engine compression and cylinder difference test. 2. Fuel filter and fuel pump pressure verify the in tank booster pump is running and producing the correct pressure. Replace all fuel filters.

Green Engine was an early British aero engine manufacturer. It was founded by Gustavus Green in London to produce engines of his design during the first decade of the 20th century.It was manufactured byCompany Aster Engineering of Wembley.

first of all engines need a certain amount of torque (work) to be able to get moving the torque is usually higher when the car is started then it decipates once the engine gets warmed up cold so in cold weather if you dont use the right grade of oil for cold whether or hot this can really mess up your engine

Depends on the set up. Is it a Naturally aspirated or turbo, or turbo with an aftercooler? And is it a Direct injection model, or a Natural Gas generator engine?

In general the 3306 has as little as 95HP ( Nat Gas Gen Set), or as much as 350 ( Direct injection Turbo aftercooled).

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