Grand Am GT

Most are in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

it is located in the dash on the driverside of the car. you must take the dash off to get to it. they locate them just to the right (passenger side) of the gas pedal, just fallow your heater hoses back from the engine to the fire wall and walla on the other side is where it's at. if your not a person with alot of car knowledge then i hope you know someone that is or will help, best thing to do is buy a hanes book from autozone and read up on it untill you think you understand how to do it then read it about 5 more times. good luck i'll trade mine off before i do it again, harry

I have no idea what is meant by a "cold start sensor." I have never heard of such an animal in all my years at Ford. There are only two temp sensors as far as the computer is concerned on any Ford gasoline engine. They are the intake air temp sensor, found sometimes in the air filter box or snorkel, or sometimes built into the MAF sensor, and there is the engine coolant temp(ECT) sensor or cylinder head temp(CHT) sensor, This car doesn't use a ECT, but uses a CHT, located in the front valley area of the driver's side cylinder head. All necessary temperature information is provided to the computer by means of those sensors, and the computer is able to make all necessary adjustments based on that information. No special cold start sensor is needed.

On a natural gas equipped vehicle there is a engine fuel temp sensor, located on the top of the engine, and there are two fuel tank temp sensors located on the pressurized natural gas tank.

Before you remove CV axle from tranny, be prepared to catch tranny fluid. Use a pry bar to separate it from tranny. When installing new part, place a piece of wood on end of outer CV joint before striking with hammer (with it installed in steering knuckle).

When you press down on the right side brake pedal, it pushes up on a rod connected to the rear master cylinder. The rod goes into a plunger which pushes fluid down the brake line to the rear brake caliper, which is usually attached to the top of the swingarm. Caliper pistons push the brake pads onto the rear brake rotor blade, creating friction and slowing the motorcycle's forward motion. When foot pressure is released, a return spring returns the brake pedal to the up position. This is the MOST common setup. Other bikes may have linked brakes, front-controlled rear brakes, etc.

Drive shaft is going out

when looking at the front of the engine it is below the altinator slightly to the right

same as a crown vic... 5 holes... junkyard guys can point ya to the right cars... tell the tire guy if youre planning on buying wheels... full size ford Bolt pattern is 5 x 4.5/114. Correct, 5 x 4.5", same as Mustang. Offset is ~6mm, anything in the 0-10mm range can be used without needed a spacer or looking odd, however. For 15" wheels: Stock tire size 215-70-15

19 city 28 hwy, On my V-6 3.4 litre, this was correct till I installed all new Bosch Platinum 4 sparkplugs, on a 5 hour drive to Denver using 87 octane gas and a cruise speed of 75 mph, my grandam was getting 32 mpg average with the new plugs, in the city I was getting around 22 mpg, not a bad increase, I recommend Bosch Plat 4 plugs anyday.

I would suspect a busted hose or radiator. Should be very easy to find the source of the leak.

You unscrew the screws

Yes....as far as I know the last American made engine that used a carb was the 1987 307 4bbl. All have been fuel injected since then.

Yes, the 5x114.3 bolt pattern is the same as the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. The difference is the first is measured in metric, the second is measured in inches.

I had this problem with two cars, Grand Prix 2001 w/3.8L and my 1985. With the Grand Prix, it was a little difficult to start after the engine was hot and I turned it off. The fuel rail was bad, low suction and wasn't pulling in the gas in. It was rebuilt for about $100 yet I had a feeling all they did was replace a rubber hose they had left hanging off from my last visit. With the Audi 5000S Turbo, after the engine was hot, if I turned it off to run into the store, house, etc. and came back a few minutes later it would not start easily. Eventually it would but not easily. The issue here, carbon build up on the back side of the inlet values. When they got hot the carbon expands like a sponge, right where the gas sprays before getting sucked into the chamber but instead soaked into the carbon. Using Chevron's Techtron every other month seemed to help a little but not like I wished. However, I now use this about twice a year in my Pontiac to keep the spray jets and values clean, seems to work the best out of anything on the market.

I just had the same problem. What I have found out is that it could be one of a few things. (1) first check your spark plugs. (2) check your fuel pressure, if you are not getting the correct pressures you may need a new fuel filter. (3) if your fuel filter is clean then you will need to replace your fuel pump. I hope that this will fix your current problem The anti-theft feature, when activated (theoretically when anyone attempts to start the car without the proper key) cuts off the fuel flow after 3 seconds, causing the car to start fine, but then die. I had a similar problem in my 96 gt, try unpluging the cars computer(underneath the glove compartment) and pluging it back up. Then try starting the car again.

Is new fuel pump working? If so turn key to "On" position without starting car for about 5 sec. to prime pump and lines - Do this twice and then try to start Is new fuel pump working? If so turn key to "On" position without starting car for about 5 sec. to prime pump and lines - Do this twice and then try to start

Nanochemistry is the use of chemical synthesis to make nanoscopic-scale building blocks of desired shape, size, composition and surface structure, charge and function with an optional target to control self-assembly of these building blocks at various scale-lengths.

dealer wants $273 for a new one. pull off center dial on dash (fan control) 1 screw behind it. pop trim off around shifter, then pop off entire center dash trim- easy!

First a quick description:

To replace the inner tie rod end first requires removal of the outer tie rod end first. Most mechanically inclined folks can do that. The important thing to know is that if you do not own, or have access to, an inner tie rod end tool don't even start this job. The inner cannot be removed with a pipe wrench, big crescent wrench or even an open end wrench. There simply isn't room to manipulate the tool. If you're prepared with the proper tool, this really isn't a big task. Quite frankly, I'd replace both the inner and outer at the same time, it's no additional work and then you're done with that side for a while. Remember: no tool, no job.

Parts you will need:

1. Replacement tie rod end(s).

2. New inner boot clamp, go for the worm gear (hose clamp) type, you'll thank me later. There are two clamps, a small one one the rod end and a large one on the rack end, the large one is the one you need.

1. Lift the car and place on a jack stand.

2. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the outer tie rod end, frankly it's removal should be obvious to you, if not you're not prepared to continue. If reusing the old outer end take appropriate care during removal to avoid damaging the rubber grease boot. If it rips, buy a new joint.

4. Remove both clamps from the inner tie rod end boot. The outer (small) clamp can almost always be reused, the inner (large) must almost always be replaced. The inner clamp is usually a metal strap that is crimped on, cut it off with care to not damage the boot.

5. The boot has an air equalizing line that runs between both right and left sides taht looks like about a 3/16" metal line. This merely is inserted into it's connection on each boot and should remain on the car when you pull the boot off. If it pulls out don't worry, we'll put it back in place during the reinstall.

6. Carefully pull the boot entirely off of the old tie rod end. Pull straight out, yes it will come off.

7. With the boot removed you'll note a plastic bushing on the inner end. Carefully using a screwdriver push this bushing inward until it comes off of the tie rod end and leave it in place.

8. Now place the removal tool on the tie rod end and remove it by turning counter-clockwise.

Installation:

1. Clean the threads on the end of the rack and pinion.

2. Do a trial installation by just snugging to make sure that when the tie rod end is installed you'll be able to get the tool off. If you can't get the tool off, remove the tie rod end from the vehicle and rotate it in the tool (usually a rotation of the end in the socket of the tool of 180 degrees) and do another test install. This time you should be able to remove the tool.

3. Coat the threads with loc-tite and install the new end using the tool and tighten. Remove the tool and give it the credit it deserves for making this task easy.

4. Install the previously removed plastic bushing back onto the new tie rod end. It's important taht this bushing be properly pulled onto the new tie rod end. Yes, it will pull on. 5. Position the new inner (large) clamp in place now, or if using a worm clamp this can be done later (that's what I do).

6. Install the boot making sure to align the air equalizing line to the appropriate fitting on the boot. If the line dislodged from the opposite boot during dis-assembly, insert the opposite side first.

7. With the boot in place tighten the inner of the two clamps, then install the outer of the two when the boot is snapped in place on the tie rod end shaft.

8. Now resume with installation of the outer tie rod end and finish up the rest of the obvious remaining tasks.

9. Get a front end alignment as soon as possible, you'll be surprised how fast you can scrub the tread off those tires when mis-aligned.

That should do it!

Because both computers have detected problems and set trouble codes.

Check the relay.

Turn signals work off of a flasher. Replace the flasher they are usually cheap. If that does not fix it check the signal switch. That is the thing that you use to turn on the turn signals. That is usually the problem.

You probably have a gas leak, Have it checked out NOW before it catches on fire.

I have the same problem and I was told, by the dealer, that the fuel pump module isn't holding the correct pressure after a "warm soak" and needs to be replaced to the tune of $1,000.

probably have drum brakes. so you take the tire off and there is a gap about and inch wide on the outside of the drum casing, if you spin the casing so the gap is near the very bottom then you should be able to see a little sproket. now you have to use a flat tip screw driver to spin the sproket which will either losen or tighten the brakes, depends on what your wanting to do