Mazda MX-3

conect the ten pen and ground pin on the diagnostic tester with a jumper wire and turn on ignition do not start count the flashes from engine light to get the codes.

The MX3 capsule is typically recommended to be taken once or twice daily, preferably before meals for optimal absorption. It's important to follow the specific instructions on the product label or consult with a healthcare professional for personalized advice. Consistency in timing can enhance its effectiveness, so try to take it at the same times each day. Always ensure to stay hydrated when taking any supplement.

just like you bleed your brakes. pump the clutch pedal and hold it down, open the bleeder screw and let the air/ fliud release and then tighten it up again. repeat the process till the air is out, and keep an eye on the fluid and keep it topped up! dont let it go empty.

white smoke = Leaking water (anti-freeze) head gasket, bad water pump... cracked block... p blue smoke = burning oil i would suggest a leaking head gasket

easy question here. have flowmaster exhaust installed and a cold air intake also a header for exhaust would be good and port and polish both exhuast and intake manifolds. also better spark plugs and high performance wires. a good do it your self would be to dremel out your throttle body and make it a sixteenth inch larger in diameter then polish it. and yes i said dremel its the easy to use tool every one can get

it has two or three rotor's that spin generating power its the same rx7s and black hawk helicopters both have rotary engines. Its been proven that some rx7 rotary engines can push an upwards of 900 hp. Without any assistance from a turbo, or Nitrous Oxide Systems

Make sure you are sitting down when you find out.. its not fun! oh and make sure you have at least 8 maybe 10 hours of spare time. Make sure to have a mechanically inclined friend or know a mechanic before starting

id say about 25 mph at the most

If it's the V6 (can't answer for the 4), it's not easy, a lot of the engine accessory area has to be disassembled for this and valve cover removed (requiring new valve gaskets which are probably leaking anyhow), etc. Anything regarding timing belt (or water pump), and front wheel bearings, I consider "non-user serviceable", it's something for Mazda or a reputable Mazda certified repair department to handle. For the timing belt, simply go to Mazda, tell them you need your 60,000 mile (or equivalent multiple) service performed, get your wallet out to the tune of $840 or so USA dollars, and have alternate transport for a couple of days. This will get a lot of stuff cleaned and checked up, if you buy the parts separately, including replacement gaskets (valve cover (front required, both should be done though since you are in there), timing cover gasket, etc, you'll end up spending more for the parts than Mazda does for the overhaul, trust me on that.

There is two different kind of ignition on the mx3 if its a RS 4cyl, its using an external coil with is easy to locate following the wire from the distributor, its located near the fuse box on the driver side. if its a GS 6cyl, its using an internal one in the distributor, so you dont have any external coil.

Note : RS from 1994 or more use an internal one similar to the GS one (but cant be interchanged)

unplug all wires and fuel, vacuum and coolant hoses. undo 2 engine mounts and 2 transmission mounts. pull engine out. put new one in in reverse order

Alternator

My owners manual says the gap is .043. It is listed in the spec. section under electrical systems. Same gap for both 1.6 & 1.8liter engines.

this is demand's info on this subject, first check to see if you smell fuel in the engine bay area "over valve cover".if yes this means the fuel is not being burned by the spark plugs....now if you have an extra coil wire for your vehicle "if not you can get 1 at your nearest junkyard" change your coil wire with the spare one....try to start the car,if it starts great..u found the problem.......if the car still does not start ,then put back your original coil wire ....now start your car again listen to the sound while trying to start if its popping or backfiring then you are getting spark to your plugs and the distributor needs ignition timing...located on crank pulley line up white lines "btdc +10 degrees" make sure at this mark your rotor in the distrubitor is pointing directly at the number 1 spark plug connector located on distrubitor.you will need white out to make markings to help and you will need to loosen the bolts on the distrubitor while you twist the distrubitor to get the rotor to point directly at the number 1 plug connector....once done try to start your vehicle....if still no start then you will need to take your vehicle to a an auto mechanic.........

1. Unbolt/remove the wheel

2. Unbolt/remove the caliper

3. Remove/replace the rotor

4. Pull the retainer clips out of the retainer pins on the caliper

5. Remove the retainer pins and let the pads fall

6. Insert the new pads and fix in place with retainer pins

7. Insert the retainer clips

8. Depress the caliper with a c clamp

9. Install the caliper

10. Install the wheel

That all depends on if you abuse the starter by cranking too long. I have 170,000 on original starter.

The lid of the fuse box normally has a diagram on it. If you do not have a diagram you can go to www.mx-3.com and there are online shop manuals that will have such information.

Hard to get them to meet new emission standards...its impossible for Wankel/rotary engines to meet emmissions standard due to a serious fundamental design flaw. That is, the piston crown and combustion chamber surface area ratio to the cylinder and combustion "chamber" volume. The dish in the middle of the rotor. Its like a very (very) short stroke conventional engine. This results in a very large dead space (typically referred to as squish area) when the piston is at top dead center (TDC). This squish area ejects a large portion of the air to be used for combustion, into a more compact chamber either in the cylinder head, or in the piston or rotor crown (as is the case with the wankel). While this "squished" air help generate turbulence for an effective and rapid burn at ignition, there is (in the wankel) a large portion left in the space between the rotor and cylinder perifery, which, while it eventually burns, it doesn't burn efficiently (completely) through the period of peak compression. Further, there is a zone around the rotor sides where there is more dead space above the rotor side seals and chamber that burns very late and poorly in the process. Further to all this...when the rotor is at TDC, there is a large...I mean "large" banana shaped area each side of the rotor "chamber", between the chamber & rotor tips with a massive surface area vs volume of air for combustion. This banana shaped volume creates a very long path for ignition and the surface area quenches a lot of the initial heat from the ignition and impairs the combustion reaction markedly. Having said all this, the wankel engine is a very mechnical efficient design, albeit with an inherant serious flaw goemetrically impossible to over come.

The firing order for the 6 cylinder engine Mazda MX-3 is 1 4 2 5 3 6.

1) Make sure your mass airflow is connected and has no holes in the tubing and no broken connections. 2) If you've done any major work recently on the motor then be sure you've got the correct timing.

I just had my clutch redone, and my mechanic found the fuel filter hidden behind the transmission on the underside, near center right in front of the firewall. He obviously changed it while it was accessible, and said he didn't think it's ever been changed due to it's inaccessibility.

If it is a gs there are little marks on the engine the left camshaft is about 11:00 and the right is about 9:00 you will see the marks if you look close enough the crank is at 12:00 there is little arrows and yellow dots on the cam sprockets The marks on the engine are like little nipples

1. Clutch fluid is brake fluid.

2. The fluid used for your clutch master/slave cylinders is pulled from your brake fluid reservoir.