Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

most part stores sell just the pulley bearing are ussaly press in so you need the pulley

If your steering wheel is lock then it is tricky. Pry out the silver washer from the ignition key lock. Then you will need to cut the ignition switch cover with a hex saw. This process means you won't be able to use your key. You will need to get a new iginition key lock and key. If your steering wheel is not lock then you can save your lock and key. you need to put the key in run. This will match the notch on the cover and the lock. You need a special tool that has two prong that goes into the two notch. You can get it from Mercedes dealer. You should be able to pry the ignition lock and the cover out of its place.

vacuum leak. my 95 Monte Carlo did it. once in a while it would race to 2500 rpm then settle down like normal. not easy to find , but a cheap fix.

In the back, somewhere, there is a control (emergency cut-off) for your electric fuel pump. It's behind one of the panels, probably on the left-hand side. There is a reset button, usually red, on the box. Push the button and you should be back in business. Let me know if this works. dejudge@myrealbox.com Check in trunk a lot of Fords have afuel cutoff There should be a tag showing where it is push button should start Fuel shutoff has been activated. Find the reset button in the truck and push it. On my 2000 Ford Focus the fuel cut-off switch is located in the kick panel on the passenger side.

Ignition or ignition switch could be bad or the selanoid could have went out

Remove the plastic grill inserts from the front of the vehicle. Once removed you should be able to see the cable thatg leads to the hood latch. Use a pair of pliers or (needle nose pliers) and pull back on the cable(wire). Remember, the wire runs inside the black casing. Pulling on the entire black cable will do you no good. Pull on the wire. That should do the trick.

Check to see if the throttle plate is stuck

This answer really applies to any vehicle. The A/C puts an incredible load on the engine. If you have a problem with your cooling system, it has a hard time recooperating when the A/C is on. Your A/C clutch turns on and off several times while you are driving, it does this by using a sensor on the low side (and in some cases the high side), typically it is called a pressure cycling switch. It does this automatically (assuming it's working ok, which it sounds like yours is). When your compressor comes on, your engine receives a load, and also with the condensor (usually right in front of the radiator, it looks like a radiator) on the front of the car trying to expell heat, it is harder for the cooling system to keep the engine cool, so it heats up. When your pressure drops on the low side of your A/C (this is normal) and your compressor clutch disengages (shuts off) there is less load on the engine, and as such is easier to cool. That explains the normal fluctuations you might see in temperature. If you are seeing rapid or extreme changes, which it sounds like you are, I would recommend delving into your cooling system. Start with your electric fans behind the radiator, the way they function, is that they should come on when your car is warmed up, to regulate temperature (obviously), however, they should also come on anytime your A/C is turned on, regardless of engine temperature. This is to anticipate the increased load and heat from the engine, and to immediately get air moving across the condensor, which is a vital part to the A/C system anyway. What I'm saying, is turn your A/C on, check your fan(s) If you have two and only one is spinning, I would suspect the non-functioning fan, as typically they both will spin when the A/C is on, you might be able to jumper wires to test the non-functioning fan. If the fans aren't working, then that is probably your problem, check your fans, relays, fuses, etc. If the fan(s) are functioning properly with the A/C on, turn your car off, let it cool, and check your coolant level in your radiator, if that is ok, you may have a sticking thermostat, or other restriction in your cooling system. A faulty water pump could also create a problem. If you only see overheating (or near overheating for that matter) when your A/C is on, It is, in my opinion, most likely an issue with your fan(s). Good Luck, Scott C. The Shade Tree Technician LLC / Wichita, KS

First, remove the radiator cap and start the engine.The engine should be warm enough for the thermostat to open. (The fluid can be seen to circulate once the thermostat opens), Be careful of the now hot fluid that it will not burn you. There is most likely a radiator plug at the bottom of the radiator but if not, remove the bottom radiator hose and allow the fluid to drain out. If you want to flush the system you could refill with plain water (close the drain plug) and allow to circulate for a few minutes then redrain. There are commercial products for flushing the system readily available. Once emptied (and flushed), close the plug or reattach the bottom hose and fill with the appropriate mix of antifreeze and water. Read on the antifreeze container for the dilution ratio for the desired low temperature protection.

Hey Carol==If it is from an Olds cutlas it probably will although some had a 3 speed and some a 4 speed. GoodluckJoe

They are hydraulic and not adjustable

rocket what? an engine?, need to know the year and engine size.

You will need to loosen the bolts holding the alternator in place than once theyre loose, theres a long screw that pushes the alternator keeping it tight- loosen that screw and the belt should start becoming loose. Loosen that screw until you can take the belt off then you should be able to replace with a new one. Hope that helps.

cutlass supremes are so baller

Does your car have a remote for keyless entry? I recently had to program a remote for a 1992 Cutlass Supreme. The procedure involves removing the trim on the passenger side of the trunk, near where the antenna sits on a 2 dr. Once you pull off the trim, you should see a wire with a black connector on the end, coming from the passenger compartment of the car. To program a remote, you use a piece of wire to go from this connector to a ground on the car. As long as this connection is made, the power door locks will cycle back and forth. To program a remote, you push the buttons while this cycling is going on, then unground the connection. I don't believe that this connection has anything to do with the taillights, but if your wiring bundle is chaffed somewhere, this could be grounding out the wire for the remote programming, causing your locks to cycle. One of the wires for the tailights may also be chaffed, causing the problems with them. Good luck. Kevin Baillie (1992 Cutlass Supreme Convertible) (1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible) (1994 Cutlass Ciera)

Either the heater core has been bypassed or the switch that turns it from hot to cold is bad or the little door under the dash that open and closes is stuck inthe cold position

the tags are said to be the only way.... the number on the case tells you nothing... good luck

hi the thermostate is located at the rear of the engine you have to feel down the back of the engine under the intake manifold you can feela plastic pipe follow the pipe towards the cam covers you will feel 3 .8 mm bolts undo those 3rd one not easy but thermostate is fitted iin there make sure you buy thermostate with a pin fitted to it or you wont bleed the water systerm ok good luck Dave

The order is 1243

I beg to differ:- I own a 1969 Cortina Gt 1600 engine - 2737E 6015B, fitted with Original 32DFM Weber.( and it still runs LEADED Fuel)

Firing order is 1,4,3,2.

In the transmission in front of the modulator

I have the same problem with no codes I'm going towards the ECT sensor ..My plugs are wet gas fouled

Almost all thermostats are located where the top radiator hose attaches to the engine.

I say: Just don't light a match under there!! Screw the car man, it's no good anymore! Sell it to me.

Not sure if the 92 is the same as the 91, but on the 91 you need to loosen the adjusting idler on the alternator on top and the a/c idler from the bottom. remove the a/c belt & install the alt. belt, make sure your route is correct between the two guide as the belt goes up to the idler... hope that helps.

Does it have Tilt steering? sometime the ignition wires to the Key switch break from tilting the steering wheel, hold the key in the start position and tilt your wheel up and down and see if it all of a sudden starts. Could also be in the ignition switch its self, or internaly in the starter, dissconect the small start wire from the starter solenoid, then using a testlight test the wire for power when the key is turned to the Start position, (will likely need 2 ppl) if you have power everytime you turn the key then its likey a Starter problem, If you have no power then it is in the Start circut. and its not likely to be a Fuse as it sounds intermitant.