Pulleys

It makes things easier by putting rope through on end and pulling a weight up with little effort

both are same using for rotating the turbine initially

On all my mechanic work I go to the library the have reference books for everything on every make and model you just can't borrow so I copy what I need.....

the tention pulley bolt is not stuck. It is supposed to be that way take a 1/2 " or 3/4 rachet or breaker bar and put it in the square hole and use the breaker bar to get leverage to move the tention bar so that tention is off the belt to rmove belt and do the same to install belt

If your serpentine belt is loose, then your tensioner is either bad or it hasn't been seated properly. If you back out the bolt holding the tensioner, you should see small round projection on the side where the tensioner meets the engine. It should fit into a corresponding hole in the engine block. Tighten the bolt. Don't try and do this with the belt in position, it's next to impossible. Use a 1/4" breakover bar and insert it into the tensioner- you will see a place where it will fit. Place it where the handle is pointing toward the firewall. Push down on the bar and the tensioner should move far enough to position the belt over the tensioner. Release the bar and the tensioner should spring back to where it supplies tension to the belt. If it doesn't- then you need a new one. They're relatively cheap, and it's a good idea to get a new one each time you buy a new belt anyway. If your serpentine belt is loose, then your tensioner is either bad or it hasn't been seated properly. If you back out the bolt holding the tensioner, you should see small round projection on the side where the tensioner meets the engine. It should fit into a corresponding hole in the engine block. Tighten the bolt. Don't try and do this with the belt in position, it's next to impossible. Use a 1/4" breakover bar and insert it into the tensioner- you will see a place where it will fit. Place it where the handle is pointing toward the firewall. Push down on the bar and the tensioner should move far enough to position the belt over the tensioner. Release the bar and the tensioner should spring back to where it supplies tension to the belt. If it doesn't- then you need a new one. They're relatively cheap, and it's a good idea to get a new one each time you buy a new belt anyway. If your serpentine belt is loose, then your tensioner is either bad or it hasn't been seated properly. If you back out the bolt holding the tensioner, you should see small round projection on the side where the tensioner meets the engine. It should fit into a corresponding hole in the engine block. Tighten the bolt. Don't try and do this with the belt in position, it's next to impossible. Use a 1/4" breakover bar and insert it into the tensioner- you will see a place where it will fit. Place it where the handle is pointing toward the firewall. Push down on the bar and the tensioner should move far enough to position the belt over the tensioner. Release the bar and the tensioner should spring back to where it supplies tension to the belt. If it doesn't- then you need a new one. They're relatively cheap, and it's a good idea to get a new one each time you buy a new belt anyway.

Secure the power steering pump with the retaining bolts. Attach the power steering hose to the power steering pump. Put the belt on to the power steering pump. Fill the power steering system with fluid.

you only need to remove the auxillary drive belt to un-bolt and rplace the water pump (this is on the 2.0 16v twin cam SR20 motor.

There are a couple of ways to approach this. I just did one of these for a friend. The A/C pump seized while running. The serpentine belt broke. Crazy things can happen to other components when this occurs. In this case the broken ends of the belt, I think, whipped back around on itself on the crankshaft pulley and one of the other pulleys in the belt circuit and devastation occurred. 1) It snapped the power steering pump bracket in two. 2) It took out the alternator. 3) And not to be left out, GOODBYE cool blowin air conditioning. Time to decide what to do. He had to order the power steering bracket from a dealer (junk yards were cleaned out). He decided to replace the power steering pump with a remanufactured unit and new hoses (parts houses are much cheaper than dealer parts folks). You'll need a pulley remover that you can usually borrow (with a deposit) from some parts houses. He HAD to buy the alternato ya gotta have juice. I have been using the name, "parts houses" . (Can we use specific company names in this forum MR./MS. Editors ? I Feel I need to for the sake of all of us that come here for correct information.) THE ANSWER : DO you want to drop the bucks into fixing your A/C ? NO ? It can be involved and costly depending on how good of a do it yourselfer you are. New pumps are spendy. Then, if you use the older refridgerant you'll need a conversion kit and blah blah blah. YOU have opted for a bypass pulley. COOL ! Errrr...not actually. It's coming out. The bolts that hold the A/C pump to its bracket come out from BEHIND the bottom of the unit. They are long and won't clear the intake manifold,at least not easily. Take the bracket bolts out from the front. Take the hose from the pump to the dryer apart (at the dryer). Do you want to preserve the system for future repair? If so, cover that connection on the dryer to protect it from the world. With a sharp blade, cut the other hose coming off the pump right behind the grill. Or, try to take the fitting apart at the evaporator. Cutting it is easier. Plug the cut off end if ya want. Future repair thing. Rotate the pump forward so you can either take the bolts out,or remove the pump and bracket as a unit, with the lengths of hose attached to the pump. This gets all that hose you no longer need out of the engine compartment. NOW THE BYPASS PULLEY. He found a pulley from NAPA. IT DOES NOT WORK ! YOU DO NOT NEED IT ! Nothing against NAPA. I have bought good parts from them before. Maybe their supplier does not know. The pulley is supposed to drop into the A/C bracket in the concave recess that the pump once occupied. IT WASN'T EVEN CLOSE. Chevy released THREE versions: Poor Boy-no power steering,no A/C. MIDMan-power steering,no A/C. Rich Guy-power steering,with A/C. SO....... If you have power steering, the A/C pump removal just put you into Midman status. Stop at your local Chevy dealer, ask them to print you a belt routing diagram from the computer parts book. It shows all three versions. Go to your local,,,,,,,"PARTS HOUSE", tell them info...year,make,engine size, REMEMBER.. IT NO LONGER HAS AIR CONDITIONING. YOU'LL GET A SHORTER BELT !! IF, they sold you the bypass pulley.....GET YOUR MONEY BACK !!! Use the diagram you got. The belt is routed a little different since you lost the A/C pump and the idler pulley with it's bracket(that you can keep for future repair or trade in for to be made into beer cans) Also remember that without a belt on, the tensioner pulley is swung over to the end of it,s range of motion. When you get the belt routed correctly you have to put a wrench on the bolt on the pulley and turn hard to compress the spring. (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) The bolt is left hand thread so it won't come loose while ya reef on it to get the belt swung onto the ALTERNATOR LAST.<<<<<<GOOD LUCK !!! ADDED NOTE: Would that bypass pulley work on say...an "88" or "89" or "90" ? > I DO NOT KNOW. DID CHEVY change the size of the pump bracket after 87 ? We will be letting the good folks at NAPA know what we ran into and how we fixed it. We also will ask for a refund on the wrong part for the job. IT DOES NOT FIT AN 87! WE DO KNOW THIS..... IF the belt had just broke in half and safely dropped away, then all those parts wouldn't have been needed and the cost of the fix is FOR A SHORTER BELT and a little sweat to remove the A/C pump and bracket. #%*!!@! The A/C NEVER WORKED ANYWAY .#$@!%&!!!!!!!!!!!!!DARN THE LUCK :)

The grove on the front of the pulley requires a sleeve in a u shape that slides over the pulley grove and a fine threaded bolt is part of the the sleeve assembly than you tighten the bolt which in turn pushes on the pump shaft removing the pulley. They are avaible at NAPA Stores

Here are instructions for a 2004. There should be little, if any difference.

To ease the raising of sails, a pulley is attached to the top of the mast.

Power steering usually powered by that pulley.

is it a pintara

when looking at the front of the engine it is below the altinator slightly to the right

you need to replace the alternator

You can't. I have a 99 PA with the same tensioner assembly. After working on something other than that one day, I took the belt off and the pulley nut just kept turning, thus making the tensioner useless. After I got the new part, I couldn't believe the engineers designed this setup of having coolant go through the thing. Didn't make sense and I was sure it would leak after I installed it. But to my surprise, the o-rings do hold the coolant when installed right. It's not real hard to change it, just gonna pay a little for the part. Don't forget coolant.

Alternate answer: The above assembly must not be the same. The tensioner bolt holding the bearing/pulley on for the 1998 Bonneville has left-hand threads. Turn counter-clock-wise to loosen the serpentine belt, clockwise to remove the pulley. Note, I had to use something in the range of 80-100 ft/lbs to get mine off. $12 part, 15 minutes to replace, once you know it's left-hand-threaded...a detail my factory manual didn't regard as worth mentioning!

A pulley doesn't raise or hoist sails. A pulley is just a wheel that eases a change in direction of a rope. It is a rope that hoists or raises sails. A rope for this purpose is called a Halyard.

you should actually have a serpentene belt, which runs every accessory there should also be a belt tensioner located just below your alternator, on the tensioner ther will be a square hole. place a 3/8" drive ratchet into the hole(make sure the ratchet is set to loosen not tighten. with the ratchet take tension off of the belt and remove it, and do the same thing to replace it, you made need to remove your fan shroud to gain comfortable access. good luck

counterclockwise.

Drain the coolant from the radiator. The plug is at the bottom of the radiator. Remove the air intake and mass air flow sensor to get better access to the water pump. Disconnect all the hoses leading to the water pump, you can do this with pliars by crimpint the retaining clips and moving them back. You can then pry off the hoses. disconnect the coolant temp sensor wire from the sensor. bottom left. of the water pump. You need "if I remember right" a 14 mm socket or wrench to remove the water pump bolts. Might need to pry the pump off, it could be stuck, but a little pressure should take it off.

first remove the belt by inserting a 3/8" drive in the square hole on the tensiner, then remove the one bolt just below the tensioner and then remove the center bolt on the pully (allen wrench).

It must be pressed on. You need a special tool. Some auto parts store will lend you the tool if you buy the parts from them.

In 1490 da Vinci sketched a stepless continuously variable transmission - a Variator.

what is