Pulleys

Call the parts store. They will be able to tell you if the pulley is available separately or not.

there is no timing marks

You can rent a pulley puller from Autozone for free. They take a $40.00 deposit and when you are done with the tool, take it back, you get your $40.00 back. Call the store to make sure they one there, sometimes they are already out on loan.

65T

the location of the belt tensioner is in a tight spot. anyone who has replaced one and has normal size hands knows what I'm talking about. I'll try and make you a step by step procedure below. For visual reference, please view my BIO to gain access to my Saturn help site. In the serpentine belt folder is a picture of the tensioner and the two bolts that hold it in place, so you get an idea of where they are in relation to the tensioner unit.

1. Raise and support the vehicle with Jack stands on both sides

2. Remove the front passanger side tire (19mm lug nuts)

3. In the wheel well, remove the splash shielding to gain access to the motor.

4. Place a decent size peice of wood on your jack, and slide it under the oil pan, raise the jack so it firmly presses on the oil pan.

5. Under the hood, remove the motor mount on the left side of the motor, the mount is held on by Three 15mm nuts with studs on the motor itself, and Two 15mm nuts holding the mount to the body. remove the mount completely.

6. slowly lower the jack supporting the engine until the engine sits all the way down.

7. from inside the wheel well, place a 14mm wrench on the belt tensioner pully bolt. swing the tensioner to remove tension on the belt, remove the belt from the tensioner or main crank pully.

8. You should have access to the lower bolt on the tensioner. the bolt is 10mm in head size. i recommend using a 1/4" ratchet. Remove the bolt.

9. raise the jack as far as you can, making sure the vehicle stays on the jackstands!!! this should allow you to reach down and beable to remove the top bolt on the tensioner. the motor will come up on an angle.

10. once the bolt is out, the tensioner should just fall out of the motor. reinstall the tensioner with the top bolt first, lower the engine, reinstall lower bolt, reinstall belt, reinstall the upper motor mount, and raise the engine to level out with the upper mount.

The job sounds complicated if you are not mechanically inclined, but its accually simple. you will not break anything by moving the motor. the job should take a average person about 30-45 minuites to complete.

ALTERNATIVE and BETTER WAY in my opinion: I just replaced the tensioner on my 98 Saturn SL; removing the motor mounts is completely unnecessary! This job is easy for anybody who can remove a tire. The key to this job is having a 10mm (six point) socket head (3/8 fitting) that fits a breaker bar (3/8 fitting) TO FIT BETWEEN the 10mm top bolt of the tensioner and the wheel well where the motor mount is connected.

A regular socket wrench will take up too much space, but a breaker bar will allow you to EASILY connect to the bolt. A breaker as long as a standard socket wrench shgould give you plenty of swing/arc to rotate the bolt. (btw...I have big hands and can palm a basketball)

Follow steps 1 through three, then break the top bolt first. KEY to EASY REMOVAL: Once the bolt is loose, I switched to a mini socket (1/2" fitting) to rotate the bolt off. HOWEVER I made the mistake of rotating to far initially and the socket butted up against the wheel well, so I simply screwed the bolt in a bit, removed the socket, and rotated it off by fingers. Use a 10mm wrench if it isn't loose enough instead of a smaller socket. Again, the key to this job are the tools: basic ones. Forget about the motor mount removal.

Ignore the bolt on the pulley that connects the pulley to the tensioner. The bottom bolt is a cinch. I recommend the breaker. The tensioner falls right out.

Reverse the steps of course for replacement. You don't have to take the belt off when your tensioner fails - assuming the belt is OK.

Spray hairspray on the belt if it is making the noise or replace the belt or the pulley if its making the noise.

The 5.3 liter Vortec Engine on the 2000 Chevy Silverado has a tapered crank shaft. The crank pulley has no woodruff key, is not indexed and is pressed on.

First is you have to releive the tension and take off the belt. What ever side the tension is on from the belt that's the way it will need to go to give the belt slack to be removed. When you go to release the Tensionor back it will go further then it was before so what ever your using to unspring it (long wrench, Ratchet and socket, or tensionor tool) may get wedged.

If you are replacing the whole tensionor then you need to remove the bolt through the center of the tensionor pulley. On the back side of the tensionor is a little tip (about the size of a new eraser on the end of a pencil) that sets in a spot on the surface it bolts too. You'll need to put the new tensionor back in that spot. Thighten the bolt down snug.

If you just need the pulley itself off the tensionor then just take the bolt out that is through it. Put new one on and tighten up snug. Make sure it spins fairly free when your down. If you overtighten (create excessive drag) it it will wear out the new pulley fast and possiblly lock up when the bearing inside fails and cause your belt to break cause it doesn't spin anymore.

use a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen the tension and take your belt off.Then unbolt the center bolt of the tension assembly and replace with a new unit.

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it s cheaper to replace the complete comp ======== and also less time consuming.. DAve

Removing this bolt can be hard to do...-right? With the belts still on all pulleys, try spraying penetrating oil on and around the bolt...let it sit at least a half hour or longer to "work". Use an impact wrench. Mine is an electric DeWalt, which I found has way more torque than an air unit. Still no joy? You may have to CAREFULLY heat the bolt with a propane or MAP gas torch...(found at home centers, or if you really have to, Wal-Mart as a LAST resort. I try to avoid giving them my business) If you overheat the pulley, you can expect it to melt the rubber part. (it acts as a dampener in the pulley -yes, there is rubber there in between the pieces... Then try the wrench again. That should get her done. If not, keep applying penetrating oil...maybe overnight. Clove oil can work miracles too. Once the bolt is removed, you'll need a puller to get the pulley off. Auto Zone has a loaner tool for that. I use a steering wheel puller I happen to own and it works. You need to mark the point where the divit in the pulley edge matches TDC (top dead center) if you are doing a timing belt replacement. On my older Celicas, they mark the cover underneath the crank pulley, but not the housing underneath. You should also take the time to highlite the crankshaft cams-to-backing plates marks at top of engine if doing timing belt. I find ducking down helps while looking at cams/turning bolt on crank to get the spokes lined up with the marks that ARE on the backing plate here. (It is a bit difficult to get right if you look down at cams...especially as you can't really turn crank bolt pulley with your wrench that way, except with your foot! If you fail to get them in the right spot, you'll be off a tooth, and that would suck performance-wise. Good luck!

Unplug your voltage regulator at the front of the crankcase on the primary side. Use a multimeter set to "AC", by inserting the probes into the two holes and rev your bike to about 2500rpm or so. You should get about a 40-60 volt reading. You should also check for a ground, by doing a continuity test, or use the OHM setting on your multimeter to make sure the stator is not grounding out. If everything is good there, and your not charging up, your regulator is bad.

This is on a 1998 Olds. Intrigue 3800 V6

p0442 - Evaporative emission control system, small leak detected. Check fuel cap, make sure it clicks when tighten. I'm working on a 2000 Taurus. P0442 EVAP Control System Small Leak Detected Possible Causes Setting Conditions * Aftermarket EVAP parts that do not conform to specifications * CV solenoid stays partially open when commanded to close * EVAP component seals leaking (i.e., leaks in the Purge valve, fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve) * Fuel filler cap damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed * Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP components * Small holes or cuts in fuel vapor hoses or EVAP canister tubes Cold engine startup (ECT sensor less than 90�F), engine running in closed loop at a steady cruise speed, and the PCM detected a leak in the EVAP system as small as 0.040" in the EVAP Monitor test.

This code sets in 2 Trip(s).

There should be a "square" cut into the pulley bracket that fits either a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch ratchet or breaker bar to allow you to remove tension from this pulley allowing you to replace the serpentine belt.

Are you talking about the "idler pulley"? They are quite simple to change. Loosen the serpentine belt by using a socket on the center of the tensioner pulley, slide the belt off the idler pulley, use a socket to pull the center bolt of the idler pulley and replace the pulley with a new one.

can change a direction of a force

No

* construct with girders and beams such that only one end is fixed; "Frank Lloyd Wright liked to cantilever his buildings" * projecting horizontal beam fixed at one end only

wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn * A cantilever is a beam supported on only one end. The beam carries the load to the support where it is resisted by moment and shear stress. ...

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantilever * A beam anchored at one end and projecting into space, such as a long bracket projecting from a wall to support a balcony

en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cantilever * The part of a truss that extends beyond its support, exclusive of overhang.

www.perfectionstructural.com/Truss%20Glossary.htm * An overhang. Where one floor extends beyond and over a foundation wall. For example at a fireplace location or bay window cantilever. ...

www.echeloncustomhomes.com/glossaryc.php * A horizontal member fixed at one end and free at the other.

www.nireland.com/bridgeman/Dictionary.htm * A structure, which may have flashing light signals, extending over one or more lanes of vehicular traffic.

www.oli.org/education_resources/glossary.html * A beam or truss rigidly supported at one end, or in the middle, but not at both ends, which has forces applied along the free arm or at the free ...

www.angelfire.com/biz/BuildingPathology/ConstrEFRglossC.html * A projecting beam or bracket stabilized by the weight of the wall from which it extends. Capital The head of a column or pilaster. ...

histpres.mtsu.edu/then/Architecture/page3.html * Horizontal shapes extending outward over space.

www.artsconnected.org/artsnetmn/whatsart/whatvoc.html * A beam that projects beyond its supports. An area where a countertop overhangs a cabinet or support by more than a few inches.

www.concretenetwork.com/countertop_glossary/ * Cantilever refers to the part of a member that extends freely over a beam, which is not supported at its end. ...

www.strucalc.com/engineering-resources/the-most-used-engineering-terminology-defined/

Not building compression It should be hard to turn. It is not designed to rotate in opposite direction.

I would take the pulleys to the dealer parts department and ask them. You will need to know the type of engine and what accessories you are missing the pulleys on. They may even be able to give you a print that shows all the pulleys.

A place to start when dealing with dryer belts and understanding how they work is that they have to go around the drum of the dryer and around the pulley of the motor. The only additional thing the belt comes into contact with is a spring-loaded tensioner. The belt does not actually go around the tensioner, but rather is pushed "in" by it.

i know for a fact that a 93 tempo can be...the size belt is 62"

I assume you are trying to replace the serpentine belt and not the tensioner. There isn't enough space to get a ratchet or breakover bar on the nut... You don't need to buy/rent the special tool. You can simply use 2 combination box/open end wrenchs. Simply put the first box end wrench on the nut with open end sticking up... then 'slip/hook' the other box end wrench over one of the tines of the first wrench (play around with it and it'll make sense). This will give you enough leverage to remove the tension and the belt.