Pulleys

i just got one i paid $300 plus $200 for them to install it.

put the car in drive and crankshaft wont turn anymore. then you can take off the bolt

A 1998 Chevy astro has shocks instead of sturts.

In laymans terms... look down, kitty corner from your alternator and you will see the serpentine belt go around a (basically) teardrop shaped piece of metal. That is your tensioner. There is no adjustment to it however. The top part of it has a 3/8" opening that you can attach the end of a 3/8" ratchet end to and pull up on the loosen the belt.

only if the idler arm will not hold the tension on the belt and the pulley needs replaced when the are warn sharp or warn flat

How do I get to the crankshaft of a 1991 camero RS

I have loosen the tensioner pulley to change the belt. If that is what you are looking for perhaps this might help. Some places want to charge up to $90 for doing this because there is an engine mount on the very top which does not allow room enough to turn the pulley and release the belt. Make a diagram of the belt and the pulleys. If you have a floor jack take the top half of the handle or go to Lowes or Home Depot and purchase a 24" X 1" steel pipe, keep the receipt so you can return it. as long as you are at the store purchase a scrap piece of wood, a small piece of 2X4 or any board thicker than 1/2" it does not need to be that big. Ready??? Position the pipe on top of the pulley arm apposite to where it is mounted to the engine block, stand in front of the car, place the piece of wood on top of the pipe and place your chest on it, push down with your body while reaching any one of the pulleys and slide the belt to the side. Repeat to replace belt. Hope that helps. Rob, IL

it should be on the instructions or when you get the car they should tell you

Try leaving the belt on for tension on the pulley. Also you can very carefully use a pry bar to put extra tension on pulley while belt is on.

Not all crankshaft pulley bolts are left hand thread. In my experience if it is a left hand thread the bolt head normally has an L stamped on it to notify the direction of thread

you have to loosen the top alternator bolt alowing the alternator to swing forward loosening the belt

This is two of the things I know that could be wrong. The power steering pump is either bad or there is no power steering fluid in the pump causing it to have steering problems. Be sure to check the fluid level in the power steering pump.

No. They are a normal Righ-Hand thread: 'righty tighty/lefty loosy' :-) The Crank pulley IS very tight (hopefully) upwards of 120/ft-lbs is normal torque. Check http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum for info on 'how to ' remove. TD

That depends... What does the noise sound like? Where does it seems to come from? Does it only happen at certain speeds? When shifting gears? When braking? When turning? When accelerating? Is there a vibration with the noise? This question can not be honestly answer without being a lot more descriptive. My car is making a clicking noise when accelerating...it sounds like a can of marbles...what can be causing this to happen. It has been doing it for 4 years and no one seems to ever know where it is coming from. Could it be from the crankshaft? answer mabe the cam shaft or the lifters not the crankshaft more likely to be a leak around the exhaust manifold

I don't think so. I bought a set last spring and today we got about 5 inches of snow. In my way home the car was very unstable and braking was difficult even with ABS and VDC on.

you can makea plate to bolt to the head and in between the alternator mount bolt. make it out of 1/4" inch steel plate. make your template out of a piece of tracing paper and then lay it out on the steel plate the way you need it. Take off enough in between alternator ear for plate to fit against engine flush. you can move mount over to space beside the old boss where the pulley originally bolted on. it will work, but requires lots of exactness to make correctly. i did it. have pics of everything. you need to have a good welder to weld a nut on the back side of plate. you must allow for the distance of pulley sticking out by drilling a hole in plate that is same size as pulley shoulder so it will drop down even like old setup. weld a plated nut on back side so the pulley will tighten down exactly and it will be same distance as old pulley was. take your time. my Cadillac went to the dealership where some idiot drilled the side of the broken stud with a angle drill and drilled the side of he bolt off where the stud originally broke and then broke off an easy out in the block. their fix was a new block or shorter belt which squeeled like a hurt pig everytime the car was started. this was cadillacs final fix which costed me 500.00 . unless i wanted the block replaced. don't ask the price. all in all you are better off to do it your self unless you can't , but then find a good mechanic, as cadillacs mechanics were not impressive to me...

front or rear gears often make a whining sound if worn or low on fluid. If sound fades as SPEED fades then it is the gears if sound fades as the RPMs fade then it could be a number of different problems. front or rear gears often make a whining sound if worn or low on fluid. If sound fades as SPEED fades then it is the gears if sound fades as the RPMs fade then it could be a number of different problems.

The "bottom" pulley is typically the one that is driven off the crankshaft. It's called the "harmonic balancer".

A great way to break loose the crank shaft pulley bolt is to get a 1/2" breaker bar and a 19mm 1/2"socket hook it up make sure to handle of the breaker bar is on the driver side then put the end of it to the ground and crank over your engine for a split second and the momentum from the srater will break the bolt loose...............good luck getting it by hand or impact gun, this way i described is most effective and extremely easy........... the handle of the breaker bar has to be sturdy posted onto the cement before u turn the motor over because if not u may have a disaster with a fly breaker bar.......... the bolt loosens counter clock wise ---------DRE85mkll owner

the crankshaft gear located behind the harmonic balancer has threads inside the gear to accept a threaded puller. i went to home depot and purchased a one and a half inch pipe nipple about four inches long. drilled two hole at one end of nipple and installed a bolt in each hole for the claws on my puller to grab. the pipe nipple will screw right into thr crank gear. grab bolts on pipe nipple with puller and wrench against the crankshaft and remove the gear the same way as the harmonic balancer

jim tucson az.

Just finished doing that chore on the same model. I went and rented a Chrysler balancer puller from Auto-Zone for only a $60.00 deposit, which will be returned in full upon return. "Free"

A regular 3-jaw puller will not be strong enough in a size that will fit, and it must push from the back of the hole where the balancer bolt goes.

This is one job where the proper tool is required given the clearance involved.

The deposit fee at autozone is now $88.

On my 1990 Astro Van w/ 4.3L engine and A/C the idler has a 3/8" dia. bolt 4" long (maybe 3 1/2" - it seemed a bit longer than necessary). I'm faced with moving the idler because the A/C bearing is failing and the A/C is no good. The new location requires a 6" long bolt so I'm assuming that would go for a vehicle that was sold without A/C.

I think you mean "a one pulley system." When you want to pull in the opposite direction you want the object to move. If you tow a log behind a vehicle you don't use one so the log follows the car. But, if you wanted to lift that log you would throw the rope over a tree branch or pulley to lift it into the air as you pull down, thus using your weight with gravity to help lift the log.

However, by attaching the pulley to the tree branch, you don't gain any mechanical advantage other than using gravity with pulling down.

If, on the other hand, you attach your one pulley to the log, attach one end of the rope to the tree branch, and lift up with the other end you do gain mechanical advantage with it requiring half the force of the previous example of pulling down. But, you are limited by working against gravity and you can only lift as high as you are standing.

need a puller, 3bolt puller go to autozone

The Torrens system of land registration was created in Australia, imported to the US. Torrens, and was supposed to be a "guaranty" of title to real estate issued by the government office that otherwise typically recorded chain of title, so that if your title was attacked and you were damaged, the Torrens' system was supposed to compensate you. The compensation fund was supposed to be raised primarily by fees associated with the registration process, and was supposed to be so "fool-proof" that the likelihood of a claim was supposed to be virtually eliminated. Something like certificates of title to car ownership. Ownership was on the front side of the certificate and any and all limitations on ownership (mortgages, easements, etc.) were supposed to be posted on the back. When you sold you turned in the certificate and the government was supposed to examine title and issue you a new certificate in conformity with your contractual rights and if the government would not because of a title defect you theoretically had a right of action under the old certificate if the government was wrong and then the government would be able to go after the seller or third party who created the problem. Theoretically if you had a mortgage released you would turn in the certificate for the mortgage to be removed or cancelled on the certificate.

I practiced real estate in Cook County, Illinois in the years before Torrens was abolished here and title insurance was returned to private companies like Fidelity/Chicago Title, Ticor and First American Title. It was run by the Cook County government and was hopelessly mired in bureaucracy. You could close on your purchase on day X and it could take SEVERAL YEARS before you got a new certificate and in the interim most people got title insurance too because there was no way to guaranty title until later and anything could happen in the interim. Good idea, bad implementation.