Pulleys

Tools: Eye protection, wrench, Allen wrench or both to loosen the idler pully, a socket and long handled braker bar to loosen the tensioner. First, check the size of the wrench you will need to remove the idler pully (either a nut on the back of the pully or an Allen wrench from the front.) do not loosen! Next find a socket that will fit the tensioner (The tensioner is the only pully on an arm) At the tensioner there is a nut that the socket will fit (don't worry you cannot remove the nut as it is built into the tensioner) attach socket and braker bar to the tensioner. Either push or pull the braker bar and the tensioner will either tighten the serpentine belt or loosen it. Loosen it and hold breaker bar in place by letting it rest against something (holding the breaker bar for 10 to 15 minutes is the pitts) Only pull the belt off one pully (such as the alternator or AC) Once the belt is off one of the pullys, slowly release the breaker bar. It will travel beyond its normal traveling area. You may have to put the belt back on the tensioner and reposition the socket and breaker bar to get the travel you need to remove the belt. If you are changing the belt, make sure you have a diagram to reinstall the belt. The idler pully can now be removed using the other wrench. To reinstall reverse the procedure and slip the belt over the pullys and check to make sure that all the belt grooves are in all the pully grooves. Have someone start the car with instructions to shut the car off immediatly if the belt is not installed correctly. (Be extra carefull when starting the car. Do not get to close as if the belt is installed incorrectly it can jump out and bite you) tata G

take off the belt and there is one bolt take it off and put a new one one.

In general, rough idle for almost any car can be caused by plug wires, sparkplugs, injector(s) (depending on whether it's throttle body or port injected), EGR valve, burned exhaust valve or anything that the computer says is wrong. In general, if the engine is giving you any problems and you don't have any specific concerns, run a computer diagnostic test first. But if the engine has overheated, the first step should be a compression test. Good luck.

i just did a timing belt change on 1991 crx. according to my manual the tensioner bolt should be 33 foot pound or about 400 inch-lbs torque.make sure you use a six pointed 14mm socketso you won't round out the bolt head. since your a/c mount bolts are stationary they should be tightened about two hundred inch pound; your a/c belt should have 1/8 to 1/4 inch detent on the longest part of the belt and then tighten the nut on the pulley then tighten the adjustment screw. hope this help

Crankshaft sensor on Honda/Isuzu 3.2l V6 is located on the lower passenger side engine block . If you look through the wheel well at the block just behind the motor mount you will see the wiring harness plug going in.

You would not normally use a belt with a single pulley. Belts are normally used to transmit kinetic energy between two or more pulleys in a mechanical system where it is desirable to transmit energy in a direction perpendicular to the axis of rotation of a pair of shafts. To transmit energy along a shaft's axis of rotation one would normally use a shaft coupler, or simply a longer shaft. For other angles a universal joint or flexible shaft is typical (depending on the angle and the amount of torque required).

take the serpentine belt loose and there is 1 bolt holding the complete belt tensioner onto the engine, take the bolt out and it's off.

Yeah, but it isn't something you see happen very often. It's honestly kind of hard to let that happen to the pulley of the crankshaft. You had to have something going on in the engine before that happened. But I do know how to fix the warping in a crankshaft pulley from happening again, but it wouldn't be cheap.

It's one of those funky little clip things that goes on just about anything, like you sometimes get on keyrings

it is a 1 1/4 ( hollywood)

The way the alternator belt raps around pulleys in the automobile differs by vehicle and engine. An alternator belt in an older vehicle usually just went around the fan blade, the water pump, and the alternator. Today's vehicles are more complicated and might require more pulleys.

Lock the engine by removing the starter motor and using a flat bladed screwdriver placed in the teeth of the ring gear. If you have an impact driver and relevant hex bit give that a try while someone holds the screwdriver in place. This may not budge the bolt so in my experience the best way is:

Using a cold chisel hammer the bolt to turn it anti clockwise, you will need several good hits with a large hammer, this method will damage the bolt but it is important that it is replaced anyway as it can only be torqued up once.

Yes it does interchange. 1990-1993 Accords have the same camshaft pulley (or cog).

Remove the old, damaged idler pulley and replace it with a new one.

yes it is oh yea i rock

The belt is slipping.

On my '96, it's located on the passenger side of the engine, back and down from

the alternator. It will be very shiny and it doesn't look quite like the other pulleys. It's the only

one that contacts the back, or outside, of the belt.

this is for the 5.0 engine

http://media.photobucket.com/image/serpentine%20belt%20diagram%2097%20mercury%20mountaineer%205.0/brian123dye/SANY0172.jpg

There isn't a whole lot of extra room around the serpentine tensioner pulley so here is what I do...

I put a box end wrench on the tensioner pulley nut. Then I push on the opposite end of the wrench with a long piece of wood... something thin enough to fit in the space you do have. I think I use a board that is about a half inch wide/thick. It helps if you have someone else remove the belt when you push on the wrench end.

Gary from Princeton, MN

Go to NAPA and buy a repair manual for your specific car.

presuming that your GT is very similar to my '96 non-GT, yes.

There are two belts available. One for cars with AC and one for

cars without AC. If you buy the one for the cars without, you can

bypass the condenser.

If it is not bolted on, it is not removable.

I don't believe there is an idler pulley on that model, just a tensioner pulley

You have two pulleys .. one is the driver pulley and the other is the driven pulley.. now a tensioner pulley goes in between those two pulleys to put some tension on the belt so when the driven belt starts to turn the belt won't start to slip.. so it tightens the belt up

First remove the entire PS pump, then remove the pulley with a puller tool. This tool is available at many auto parts stores and can sometimes be rented. I found one at Canadian Tire. The pump shaft seal should be replaced at this time as it is usually a source of leaks if it has not been replaced before on this age of car. To remove it, carefully drill 2 small holes in the metal seal frame about 180 degrees opposite to each other, and put in a screw about 1/4 inch longer than the amount of exposed pump shaft and the seal will come out by prying under the screw heads. Clean all old oil out of the seal area, and then install a new seal by carefully tapping it in place using a deep socket with slightly larger diameter than the seal. Now, a pulley installation tool for GM vehicles is required to press the pulley onto the pump shaft. The tool is threaded into the shaft center, and then the upper part is turned which forces the pulley onto the shaft. This job may be somewhat of a challenge for beginners so it's probably best done by those with some mechanical aptitude and experience, but it's generally not considered to be a difficult job.