Pulleys

i dont know go to the shop

one of the pullies that doesn't drive anything will have a bolt head in the center, turn this counterclockwise, and as you do so, the tesion will be removed. as soon as you let tension of the socket however, the tension will be re-instated.

Idler pulley takes up the extra slack from the serpentine belt.Serpentine belt, drives accesories from the crankshaft ie., usually,. water pump, power steering pump, altenator,air conditioner compressor. Older vehicles had separate belts for driving these componants and each had it's own adjustment location which was done manually,[which is why belts would schreech when loose] most of the newer stuff has idler pulleys which are self adjusting [spring loaded]the bad part is serpentine belts can be pricey and the bearing in the idler pulley can tend to wear out and the whole unit has to be replaced. L. Keedy It controls the routing of the belt. The amount of contact betwen a pulley and the belt determines how much power will be available for the alternator, power steering pump or water pump. One of the idler pulleys is mounted on an arm that is spring loaded to keep force on the pulley. It's called a tensioner pulley or belt tensioner. That makes sure the belt is tight and able to transfer power properly.

You are talking about the tension on your fan belt? If the belt is still on, use your ratchet to insert into the square hole on the tension arm. Use the ratchet as a lever to move the tension are so you can slip the belt off. Then just unscrew the arm, get the new on, screw it in, and replace the belt and you are good to go.

Bearing needs to be replaced

Remove the belt, then remove the bolt in the center of the spring tensioner with a 15mm wrench, install new one

remove the belt by pulling the tensioner up or down take off the altnator then it just three bolts and it s off

This may be only for the 2.4. The tensioner is not even close to the alternator on the 2.2. In order to remove the tensioner on a 2.2ltr you either need to lift the motor a bit or remove your fender and inner fender well because no tool can remove that pulley/assembly in that clearance. There is only a few inches between the tensioner pulley and the inner fender well. Chevy doesnt have a special tool like I hoped they would, to sneak in that little spot, so if anyone comes up with anything let me know. Hope everyones cavalier endeavors go well! :)

get manual from auto parts store will help with many things. one has to remove the crank pulley and timing cover on passanger side of engine. the crank end has a mark on it which should be strait up, and the rocker arm gear has a mark on it which sould be strait up too, at same time. manuals show and explain this.

The resvoir is located on the passenger side of the car behind abd below the alternator. You have to reach down and feel for the cap. You will also need a long funnel to make it possible to add the fluid.

An alternator pulley transfers mechanical power from an engine crankshaft to the alternator shaft via a belt. It's interesting to note that on some engines, there are no pulleys and the power is transfered via solid gears.

Not really. Aside from the normal sort of whirring noises that any rotating device might make, it should not whine. It could be that the bearing is dieing and that you'll have to replace the tensioner.

You could try shooting some WD-40 at the bearing. You probably need to try to get

at the backside of the pulley.

If the outside casing is slightly blackened, by rust or wear, you should avoid using it. However, many people have suffered severe consequences because of lack of recognition of inner damage, particulary in commercial models.

HI the tensioner is mounted with 2 bolts..you must be careful not to strip them..remove them, then the big spring..that holds the tensioner..it is under pressure so be careful..when putting spring back ON, you must pry it OVER the bottom tab on engine block...use crow bar or large flat screwdriver to do so..The right hand bolt is a PIVOt that slides..the left hand bolt fixes the tension on the tensioner..the tensioner slides up and down on the right hand tensioner bolt to adjust the tension on the timing belt..its hard to explain w/o a diagram..good luck

its located on the front passenger side of the car.first take off the tire,then the inner fender and the crankshaft pulley will be right there. its also easier to do with air tools.

I've only had experience with one, but here goes: They are hinged on the side of the top & have a cable attached the bottom of the keel. In the cockpit, there is a windlass which is wound & locked in place. This facilitates pulling up the keel all the way for running with the wind or leaving it only halfway down for reaching across the wind. Remember this: No keel, no steering!

The crank bolt is right thread on a 96 geo metro.

bob.

The belt tension should adjust automatically. There's a thing called a belt tensioner that has a strong spring in it (you can't see the spring) that keeps pressure applied to the belt. This belt tensioner is what makes the serpentine belt so hard to remove. Many times the tensioner is in a difficult place access.

I assume you are talking about the brake master cylinder. MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL (1) Disconnect primary and secondary brake tubes from master cylinder. Install plugs in the outlets of master cylinder. (Caution: Use a line wrench to avoid damage to line nuts) (2) Remove nuts that attach master cylinder to power brake unit. (3) Slide master cylinder straight out away from power brake unit. RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT Before disassembling the master cylinder clean outside of reservoir and master cylinder housing. (1) Remove reservoir caps and empty the brake fluid from reservoir. (2) Position master cylinder in a vise. Grasp reservoir and firmly rock from side to side to remove from master cylinder housing. (3) Remove and discard master cylinder housing to reservoir grommets. (4) Install new housing to reservoir grommets into master cylinder housing. (5) Lubricate reservoir mounting area with clean brake fluid. Place reservoir in position over grommets and using a rocking motion, seat reservoir properly onto master cylinder housing. CAUTION: Be sure that reservoir is positioned properly! All lettering should be properly read from the left side of the master cylinder. Be sure reservoir seats all the way down until the bottom of the reservoir touches the top of the grommet. BLEEDING MASTER CYLINDER Before installing the master cylinder on vehicle, it must be bled on the bench as follows: (1) Clamp master cylinder in a vise and attach bleeding tubes. (A kit can be purchased at any auto parts store). (2) Fill both reservoirs with approved brake fluid. (3) Using a brass rod or wood dowel depress push rod slowly and allow the pistons to return under pressure of springs. Do this several times until all air bubbles are expelled. (4) Remove bleeding tubes from cylinder, plug outlets to prevent spillage and install caps. (5) Remove from vise and install master cylinder on vehicle. INSTALLING MASTER CYLINDER (1) Position master cylinder over studs of power brake unit, aligning power brake push rod with master cylinder piston. (2) Install and tighten attaching nuts. (3) Connect front and rear brake tubes and tighten. (Do not over tighten) (4) Bleed brakes using normal procedure, being sure fluid level in master cylinder is maintained. Bleed in this sequence. RR-LR-RF-LF

There should be an auto tension device. It is not adjustable. Usually at 60k miles you replace the serpentine belt, and usually you'll want to replace the tensioner as well. If tension is a problem, make sure it's the right belt, and if so - replace the tensioner.

2000/2001 BELT TENSIONER

There is a simple fix to this issue and I've run across the answer on a message board about a year ago, and when implemented by the Toyota mechanics there were amazed that the issue was fixed in less than a minute when their consideration was to purchase a new belt tensioner assembly at $350 bucks for the entire assembly.

NOW, you going to hate me for this but I cannot remember what the fix was. It had something to do with either tightening the Tensioner Pulley, or Tensioner Bold or some adjustment to hydraulic cylinder or flange. I'm sorry for the loss of memory, I should have wrote it down, cause the fix lasted 1.5 years and I have 120K on my Celica.

NOW if anyone knows what the funk I'm talking about, please fill me in, because the squeak is back and they are offering the same solution to purchase the assembly kit.

Alright. I just changed the Serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Celica GT. Here are fairly detailed instructions on how to do it. USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

First. There are six pulleys on the passenger side of the motor. They are arranged almost like the diamonds (or whatever) on a 6 of diamonds playing card with the two in the center being set closer together than the top and bottom pairs. SO get a piece of paper and draw six circles on it like this. I am going to use numbers to help explain how the belt is routed.

2) alternator (1 power steering

tensioner pulley 3) (4 water pump

crank (5 6) A/C

The parenthesees show which direction the belt goes around the pulley.

Second, Take off the right side plastic cowling by popping out four plastic studs. Use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry them out. You may even be able to reach under and push a locking pin out of them. It is the dot in the center of the button head. Just push it straight out.

Third, Take off the top cowl from the head. It has two 10mm cap nuts and two plastic studs. They are not the same as the passenger side cowl studs. Just carefully pry them out with a plastic screwdriver. You will damage the cowling less if you pry under the cowl, not the buttons.

Fourth, Use an 18mm box wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner(About 6 inches behind the tensioner pulley). Push on the belt and you will notice that it has loosened some. Use the handle of a hammer to push harder on it and it will loosen a little more. Pry the belt off the alternator pulley and the rest will be pretty easy.

Fifth, Start routing the belt around the back three pulleys. Get it under pulleys 5(crank pulley) and 6(air conditioner compressor) with the ribs facing up. Loop it so that the flat side of the belt goes around pulley 3(Tensioner pulley). Then snake it around pulley 1(power steering) with the ribs facing the pulley. Move to the front of the motor. Bring the belt up and around pulley 4(Water pump)Bring up all remaining slack to the alternator pulley (6) Now holding the belt with one hand, make sure the belt has not fallen off the pulleys and adjust as neccesary.

Now take a 19MM box wrench and put it on the adjuster lug(about two inches forward of the bolt you loosened) on the tensioner assembly and pull toward the front of the car. At the same time, wiggle and pull and tug the belt onto the alternator pulley. You may need to put the box end of your 18mm wrench over the front lug of the open end of the 19mm to extend the 19mm so that you have leverage to pull it forward. Once the belt is on the alternator pulley, let the 19mm wrench back off. it will feel spring loaded. The belt will tighten and snug itself down to the pulleys. Then just tighten the 18mm bolt back up and check your work. Start the car to make sure it is on properly. Replace your cowls.

In the last post, the parentheses are wrong around the 1 and the 2. This is correct. (1 2), 3) (4 , (5 6) Sorry, Chris.

Hey, yes the Idler Pully nut is reverse tread (you have to turn right to loosen this) this is because you turn left to loosen belt tension. I believe this is true for a lot of GM engines.

my husband just did so. the pulley is part of the air condition compressor, so you have to replace the whole part that's connected to the pulley, you can'tjust replace the pulley it self, and going to the junk yard for these partsis very cheap and the way to go.

You will need a tool called a puller to remove your crankshaft on your Nissan Xterra. You can purchase this toll at most auto parts stores, or borrow one from a shop or another mechanic.

sounds like the rubber damper is worn on the harmonic balancer. if this is the case you will have to replace the harmonic balancer.

It's a pulley because it the string could go forward and back to catch a fish.

Right hand,

Here is A little known trick to getting it lose, First, bE careful: Put A wrench or socket on it, (do not use an extension), Make sure it is on really good, And against something that will not move like the body support. Get everyone away from the engine area just in case. Use the starter to turn the motor, The starter has the power to breah the bolt lose.

Do not I repeat DO NOT use the starter to break the crankshaft bolt loose on a 1.8L Honda engine or any engine in a Honda or acura. The engine turns counter-clockwise and the bolt is right hand which will in turn tighten the bolt or break it which is not what you want. The info above is bad advice.