Pulleys

The bolt is normal thread, righty tightly, lefty loosely.Using a cordless Impact gun is the easiest way to remove it without having to hold the pulley from turning. It should be a 15/16 or whichever size is equivalent in metric measurements.

22mm

Crank pulley

Piston connects to the crank shaft. One side of the crank shaft connects to the transmission and the other side connects to the crank pulley. It serves two main purpose. First one is it is used to time the engine (marks etched into it by manufacture) the other is to power other devices such as the alternator or power steering via a belt system (older cars used chain and gear sys). It is usually found closes to the bottom of the engine at the front, just follow the belts to the bottom.

A pully is used to lift heavy things you normally would have difficulty lifting with your bare hands.

on the tensioner there is a square hole for a ratchet or use a wrench on the nut

The 2001 actually doesn't have the sqare hole. That's on the earlier trucks. Use a 15mm socket on a long breaker bar. There is a bolt head at the center of the tensioner pulley (just to the left of the middle of the engine if you're looking at it). Turn the handle toward the passenger side, and this will release the tension on the belt. Make sure you have a diagram to tell you how the belt is routed, so that you can put it back on in the right manner. Oh, and the F150's come with a 4.2L V6, not a 4.3L. Just FYI. Good luck!

on the 92 3.0 sohc engines,the tensioner for the alt etc is a bolt behind the smallest pulley that has that's driven by it(meaning not an alternator,power steering pump etc...some people are newbs)youll need a 4-6 inch extension to reach it don't remember the socket,might have been a 12mm or 14mm but you losten the pulley itself a few turns first,not all the way off but enough to let the tension bolt travel...torque to desired or specified torque..i still don't know the torque settings for the alt belt as i did a steal with this engine and have heard mixed applications on stealth forums but the small belt is suppose to be quite tight and when its as tight as you think it should be,tighten it 2-4 times more,its suppose to be really tighter than youd expect,idid alot of digging for that one lol...but i have heard 141lbs ft for the other,but that's strictly heresay from unreliable sources....the other tensioner bolt is right above the other pulleys toward the ac compressor(lower pulleys)your gonna need to do alot more if your doing more than tension here,depending on car,y stealth needed a belt so i had to jack it up take the driver tire and well off and than take the pulley off etc..and install..P.I.T.A..but yeah if not youll know...that's all././.

replace the belt with a goodyear bet

No need. Replace the original pully location with a remote pully. same size belt. nice look. keeps balance. simple r&r work.

pully wheel should come off with fan when you remove 4 bolts that hold fan to waterpump

First remove any retaining bolts on the pulley, then position the tool so that the 3 ( typical ) arms are hooked behind the pulley and screw the center down to the bolt until snug. Then using a wrench turn the bolt in the center of the puller, as you do the pulley will slide out with it. It might help to spray the shaft with penetrating fluid before attaching the puller. Go slowly, too much pressure may break or bend the pulley and the puller may pop off several times before you get it right. It is important that the arms of the puller be equally spaced and centered on the pulley for correct removal. You may need to change the positioning of the arms in order to reach behind the pulley, most pullers have two sides each with near and far holes for the bolts. Pick the adjustment that best fits and leaves enough room to tighten the center bolt for removal. The center bolt must be centered on the shaft, if there is no taper or bolt hole in it use a center punch to make one so the puller stays centered, without a guide the puller will try to walk off the shaft as you turn it.

it is not easy first u want to put a screwdriver or something strong in between the flywheel and make sure its wedged in there good and find the socket u need and u will probly need a pipe of some sort to put over the rachet for more leverage some are pretty difficult to get off so good luck

It takes a pulle r available from the parts store for rental.

To relieve serpentine belt tension you need to use a Rachet arm or Breaker bar, the longer the better. (Many parts stores, such as Auto Zone will let you use their special tool made just for this purpose.) Fit the 3/8 square drive tip into a hole in the bracket which is attached to the Tension pulley. Once you insert the drive tip into the matching hole, simply turn the ratchet or breaker bar until the pulley rotates and releases the tension.

You take your belt off (I assume it's already off if the tensioner is broke). And you take a ratchet and remove the bolt holding the tensioner in place. It is reverse thread. My S-10 had a 305 from a caprice and it would cut the bracket often because the pully would come off the bearing.

You don't. The pulley is pretensioned by the manufacturer. If the belt tension is incorrect, the pulley must be replaced.

ya might just be low on oil ...My 92 Stanza has a bad valve cover gasket that leaks and when the oil drops to 1 & 1/2 quarts low the valves start ta clatter. After adding oil it took a few miles of easy driving ta get rid of the noise.

put the belt back on and hold the pully with your hand while losing the bolts with a wrinch

On the tensioner, sometimes it has a cover on the tensioner that covers the bolt.

well I pulled and pulled and it snapped today

Just turn the bolt against clockwise and it will come out easily ...

The L28 engine is the most common Z car engine. Removal of the cranshaft is staight forward. Sans the steps required to pull the engine from the car, with the engine mounted on an engine stand, the steps are: 1) Remove all exterior components from the engine. (Alternator, starter, water pump, intake/exhaust manifold). 2) Remove main pulley 3) Remove front engine cover. Requires the removal of the distributor, oil pump and pump drive shaft from cover, first. 4) Drain engine oil, remove valve cover 5) Remove engine head: remove cam sproket, chain, head requires a 10mm hex drive to loosen head bolts. Lift head from engine, set down on side, being carefull not to damage the valves. 6) Rotate engine 180 degrees, upside down on engine stand. 7) Remove oil filter, oil pan, oil pick up tube. 8) Remove rod caps from crankshaft. 9) Remove crankshaft main caps. Frint and rear main caps are most difficullt to remove and require leveraging these out of the machined surfaces. Be carefull not to damage the mating surfaces. 10) Crankshaft should lift out of engine block.

the only belt with a tensioner is the timing belt, to tighten the alt belt loosen the adjustment bolt then tap the alt back then retighten the bolt

how to replace the rear bearings on a 1999 Honda fourtrax ATV

Crankshaft Pulley !