Radiators

the fuel pump fuse is number 14 in the fuse box in the glove box rated at 15 amps

Radiator. Remove the cap and add coolant there.

Most water pumps have a (weep) hole just under where the pulley go's into the pump body.=ok you fan blade is bolted to the front of your pump. looking down if you see a trinkel of water or a water stain on the front of it under the shaft you can bet your pump is gone.=

Some cars during those years did not have a petcock. Need to lossen the bottom hose and drain.

You replace the radiator

check fuse for coolant fans check relay u may need a ccrm (constant control relay module)its located next to ur battery. check ur wiring i rec getting evtm for this go to alldata.com they have everything u wll need to fix this car u also may need scan tool to actuate and monitor the cooling fan system u need to oinoe if the pcm is sending signal to turn on the fans i

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Assuming you didn't drain the system, you shouldn't have to burp it at all. Just keep the reservoir full and warm up the engine. it circulates through the reservoir and back to the radiator.

To "bleed" the cooling system on a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, there is a small brass bleeder valve located on the heater pipe that runs along the front of the motor (metal pipe). Open that valve a couple turns and pour in the antifreeze in the reservoir tank until antifreeze starts dripping from the bleeder hole. Tighten the valve, but be careful not to tight too tight, they are soft brass and break easy. Finish filling the reservoir to the Full Cold mark. After driving the car at least one time and letting it cool down, check the antifreeze level on the reservoir and fill as needed.

Just below the radiator lower hose is the petcock. Unscrew it partially and it will drain. It has a "T" type handle that does not require any special tool. Be sure and save as much antifreeze as you can. If you do not reuse it then take it to a repair shop or AutoZone so that it will be disposed of properly.

If it does not have a drain plug, just simply remove the lower radiator hose.

Should be a drain plug either at bottom or rear of radiator or remove lower hose

On my '99 CVPI, it's on the overflow/fill tank that is attached to the radiator. The cap looks nothing like the old "radiator caps" from the 60s, 70's and 80's - it's plastic!

Disconnect a hose and fill it through the hose. Possibly the one to the water pump; that should be pretty accessible.

It is a real pain. First you have to take the fan shroud off. It clips in 4 slots on the radiator two are snapped in. Pull on the tabs and then push up and remove the fan shroud through the bottom of the car. This will give you access to the radiator. The radiator support has 4 bolts that need to be removed from the bottom. Then it takes some moving around to get it free, the whole radiator slides to the left. It took my friend 3 hours and he is a mechanic, they really bury the radiator on this car. It comes out from the bottom the plastic that you see on top isn't how you remove it.

"Flushing" a radiator is recommended when the coolant has passed its recommended service life or has been mixed with other fluids. Most manufacturers have outlined in the owners manual when it should done as maintenance.

I believe ther is a petcock that can be opened with a 1/4" drive extension. You turn it about 1/3 of a turn and pull it out.

I once repaired a radiator once with JB weld and it worked. But before you do here's some advice first locate the crack, drill a very small hole in the radiator at each end of the crack. This will prevent the crack from splitting and getting larger. Second make sure it is very clean in that area that you will be appling JB weld. Use some sand paper on it so it will give it a better bound. JB weld does work well for that perticular application.

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A few more tips:

my '97 Camry recently developed a hairline crack across the top of the radiator, so i called a buddy of mine who's been a diesel mechanic for 10+ years, and he said he's seen great results using JB Weld on plastic radiators. his recommended tips were:

- 1st (and VERY important), allow your vehicle to cool overnight to ensure the radiator and engine is COMPLETELY cold as can be before beginning the repair.

- distress/score the area around & including the crack with some steel wool or sandpaper. you could use a Dremel or something of the sort, but you must be extra careful to not dig too deep (as it would weaken the radiator even more-so.

- use some brake cleaner and shop towels to clean the area around & including the crack VERY well after you score it.

- drill 1 small (and i emphasize SMALL) hole at each end of the crack (2 holes in total - 1 at each end) to "terminate" the crack so that it won't crack any further.

- mix up the JB Weld so that it's nice and tacky (more so on the thick side).

- apply the JB Weld thoroughly (but not TOO thick) to cover all of the crack and the 2 small holes you drilled at each end.

- allow AT LEAST 24 hours for the JB Weld to dry & cure thoroughly. the colder and/or wetter (humidty, rain in the air, etc...) the longer you need to wait. if you can wait 48 hours, you can rest assured that it should be cured thoroughly (again...make sure the JB Weld stays DRY).

- again, DO NOT START the engine for any reason during this 24-48 curing time. it will heat up the radiator and put internal pressure/stress on the repair which WILL prevent it from curing properly.

i hadn't thought about inserting mesh or fiberglass screen into the JB Weld when it's applied, but it sounds like it would definitely make the repair hold up better. GREAT idea!!

I'm going to attempt this repair tomorrow (Friday, 1st October) and then not drive the car for a couple days. here's to hoping!! :)

The drain plug is located on the passenger's side of the radiator, all the way at the bottom of the face towards the motor. There is a small 1/4" hose connected just beneath it.

I suspect that after the flush, your ratio of coolant to water changed and the "coolant" is more concentrated. The term "coolant" is a bit of an oxymoron. Its purpose is really to prevent/reduce corrosion, and to improve the overall boiling and freezing points of the mixture, but it itself is poorer conductor of heat than pure water. Too high of a mixture of coolant will actually cause poorer cooling, however too low can cause boil-over. You want the proper mixture....and maybe you do have that now and it had become dilluted over time before your flush. If in doubt, have it tested. It's also possible you have an air bubble trapped somewhere in the system preventing proper coolant flow. You might consult a local professional and ask about "burping" the cooling system. They might tell you how to do it yourself. Particles Loosened Particles in the system could have been loosened in the process of the flush causing a different area in the system to become clogged. This is a common occurance in after flushing the system. Another problem could be air trapped in the system as mentioned above. Loosen the burp plug 3/4 turn on the thermostat housing just after starting a cool engine. Remove radiator cap and add 50/50 mixture as needed until antifreeze starts coming out of burp plug. Tighten plug and replace radiator cap when radiator filled to top of neck. You may also want to consider replacing radiator cap with a new "Stant" cap without the plastic lever. They are proven to hold pressure more consistently and be made of better quality. Only use green antifreeze after flushing system. Don't ever use Dex-Cool for various very costly problems it has proven to cause.

If its low.. you should check it every two weeks when u go over the other fluids ....

Just finished replacing the radiator on a '96 Voyager Rallye in 5 hours, start to finish, and I'm not a mechanic (had to borrow the tools!). The grill/"bumper" comes off in one piece, then just pay attention to the order of what comes off next. I lost maybe a half hour having to undo/redo little things on reassembly.

Good luck.

It is on the lower right of the radiator. Sometime it is esier to remove the lower rad hose. Drivers side. You use a 3/4 wrench to lossen it and when you tighten it, don't turn very hard or you'll break the plastic plug.