Radiators

Radiator cooling fan relay. Corsica 1993-1996 Mounted Passenger side, upper firewall, grey or black, 4 or 5 pin OEM part number: 12077867 (four pin, grey) Brand: STANDARD Part #: RY-282 (four pin, Grey) Brand: HARNESS Part #: 37232 (four pin, Grey) OEM Part number: 12077864 (five pin, Black) Brand: Harness Part #: 37232 (five pin, Black) Brand: STANDARD {TRU-TECH} Part #: RY282 (five pin, Black)

if you feel that your rad is plugged then just drain it (keep the fluid if it is good) (there is alittle stopper on the bottom of the rad) and then pour water through it, it your rad fills and none comes out then, yup its clogged. or if it trickles slowly out, then it also has an obstruction. you can also look at the individual pipes that run up and down to the car, if one is pinched then that could do you in also.

For a first generation sienna (ie, 1999), you can follow my DIY video here:

http://eturkov.blogspot.com/2008/11/diy-1999-Toyota-sienna-radiator.HTML

For a 2004 Toyota sienna XLE limited, check out the below previous answer to this question:

Remove to front wheel, front part of the wheel liner,under need flash pan.

remove front bumber cover( be careful there are 1 silver scew and 2 snap on things on each side), radiator support, don't forget to unplug some sensor,lights,horn....plugs to the bumber cover and radiator support.

remove upper and lower radiator hoses, 2 transmission lines

remove 4 bolts mount the fan strout to the radiator,remove 1 scew mount the condenser to the radiator and pull the radiator up.

If anybody know the easier way please let me know, thanks!

You can always go to walmart or try an autoparts store and get a coolant flush kit which has all the fittings to fit onto the radiator and connect a water hose to it Also some transmission flush. should have directions with it.

When there is no water in the radiator, a car can overheat. Serious damage can occur like a blown head gasket an warping if one drives for a long time without placing water in the radiator.

It can over time, it is not meant to be a lubricant.

Pug 406 rad is the easiest to change that I've ever done...

drain the coolant

remove top and bottom hose clips and the thin hoseremove sensor multi plug

remove hoses

flick up clips at top of rad

lift it out!! that's it !!

replace in reverse order making sure the bottom locating pin rubber grommets are in place.

it really is that simple ..

Billy...

Radiator Removal:

Remove the under cover.

Remove the radiator cap, loosen the drain cock, and drain coolant into a container.

Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.

Disconnect coolant reservoir tank hose.

Remove the fresh air duct. When installing fresh air duct, tighten bolts to 89 lb-in (10 N·m).

Remove the five shroud bolts.

Remove the radiator bracket bolts and lift the radiator upward.

Send the entire radiator to a radiator repair shop for repair. :)

you can use a flat tip screwdriver or a nut driver Turn counter clockwise to loosen

TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I FOUND THAT THE COOLANT OUTLET CAP WAS NOT PROPERLY SEALING DUE TO CORROSION ON THE SEAT LIP OF THE OUTLET. THIS WAS CAUSING A WEEPING OF COOLANT TO THE RESERVOIR AND A LOSS OF PRESSURE REQUIRED TO PREVENT BOIL OVER. MY CHEAP SOLUTION WAS TO CAP THE COOLANT LINE TO THE RESERVOIR. PROBLEM SOLVED.

If you replaced two caps then I doubt those caps are the problem...there is something else causing the pressure to be too great and thus flow out.

You could have a bad head gasket, which allows the pressure from the combustion chamber to flow into the cooling circuit creating to great of pressure for the cap, and thus, flows out.

Just capping that line cripples the functionality of your cooling system, it is designed to make use of the overflow tank, you shouldn't just disable it like that.

IF your head gasket IS going out, the blocking the overflow tank will cause EXTREME pressure to build up, now your going to blow the radiator and your engine. Cheaper to fix the head gasket and keep the old radiator then replace a radiator and a head gasket.

On a cold start, stand behind your car, someone starts the car, smell for coolant. When the car gets cold, the higher pressure in the cooling circuit could cause coolant to flow in the engine, so on a cold start, you may smell it. After it starts though, the coolant may not flow into the cylinders.

Get a coolant tester kit to check for exhaust gases in your coolant, you can find them at your automotive stores.

You may not see white smoke coming from the tail pipe after the car has warmed up because the coolant may not flowing into the engine combustion chamber while it is running...but you might see white smoke.

I'm diagnosing my fiance's car right now with this same situation...new water pump, new radiator cap, etc etc...head gasket is the next possibility.

Look at the bottom or the rear side of radiator - or remove the lower hose

Could be a bad thermostat not opening and allowing excess pressure build up

Any antifreeze that doesn't contain nitrates or phosphates (which can corrode the metal and break down rubber seals in your system) can be used. Many regular automotive brands will state if their product is safe for motorcycles. If it doesn't, don't use it. You can also play it safe and get motorcycle antifreeze at your local bike shop.

There are a few exceptions with some of the big bucks foreign bikes. Follow your owners manual to always be sure.

does not have one. coolant is added through the recovery tank. if draining and refilling, just fill the recovery tank full of coolant. watch as you start car it may go down so add some more with car running. dont forget to bleed the system. turn heater and fan on full blast. locate the bleeder, it is on front on top v6. open bleeder till no air is coming out. then close it. you should now have good heat. good-day !

Besides the fact that water won't give you any freeze protection, water doesn't have any chemicals in it to prevent corrosion and lubrication for the water pump.

Should be at the bottom or rear of radiator

The radiator does not have a drain plug. The easiest way to drain is remove a hose.

Replace the radiator cap with the proper OEM cap. What engine seal are you talking about. If the car is overheating, severe engine damage can occur.

well its prob the same as the 95-96-97 etc......remove the air cleaner hardware, and the windshield washer bottle... after that, you can see the drain cock...lower drivers side

Get in contact with the local Matco Dealer, they have a vacuum tool that will remove all the air. It cost about $160 for the tool.

Check the coolant fan see if it turns on when the engine gets hot. if not then your temp sensor could be bad

It means the leak is small.

A large leak will drip, while a small leak will only leak when the system is pressurized from the heat. The small leaks spray out and make steam, which looks like smoke.

If you weren't losing coolant, I'd say the smoke was from either the exhaust manifold or from a bad valve train shooting exhaust back out the carburetor. Most new cars don't have carburetors.

As a side note, you might be able to find small coolant leaks by following the supple black hoses and looking for things that have been sprayed by them. If it's not obvious, follow the steam to its source. Chances are, you'll either find a hose with a small leak or it's coming out of a crack in the engine itself. Sometimes, gaskets that separate the oil and coolant can break down and coolant will get in the oil. It then can leak out the oil gaskets much faster and easier than oil can, because it water/antifreeze mixtures evaporate and pressurize so readily compared to oil.

There is no drain plug on the rad. You have to do it the old fashioned way and pull off the lower hose. For some reason they stopped putting a drain cock on the rad after '02. (Big money saver as they started to do alot of other stuff like that)

It is located just beneath the lower radiator hose.

Either the switch that tells it when to turn on is bad or the fan itself is bad.