Radiators

Flatblade screwdriver. Would likely be easier if you moved the power steering pump, but its possible without doing that too.

fan2 should come on when the a/c is on. so both fans should be running when the a/c is on. when the a/c is not on, the driver side fan should come on when engine temperature gets up to 210 degrees. What would cause fan 1 to not come when a/c is running

http://www.digi-go.biz/articles/do-you-have-any-black-pepper-for-my-radiator.html

Ethylene glycol mixed up to 50% with water, lowers the freezing point of the mixture, while remaining an excellent heat transfer medium. It protects the engine from either freezing or from overheating.

jack the front end up and support it then remove one of the heater hoses

from driver seat its on lower right side of radiator,i can reach mine through then grill

It's almost impossible to get to - at the very bottom of the lower radiator on the left (driver) side. Easier to pull the lower hose to get the coolant out.

Try an auto parts store web site. NAPA, AutoZone. etc. all have home pages that allow you to enter vehicle / engine info an gives you a list of parts / fluids availble for your particular car / truck. Free It will be posted in the owners manual or on a sticker under the hood close to the radiator. Thanks.

It might be a bad thermostat, or something worse, such as a blown head gasket/cracked head. Either of those scenarios will cause the cooling system to pressurized beyond it's specified capacity, and the pressure will force the coolant out of the reservoir.

It depends on the type of system you have. 1 pipe in, or 1 pipe in and 1 pipe out. Single pipe in/out, try replacing the relief valve or simply shimming the end of the radiator opposite where the pipe comes in. This lets water bleed out of the radiator and stops the klanging.

upper line on radiator connects to transmission front

A STUCK THERMOSTAT WILL DO THAT ESPECIALLY WHEN THE ENGINE STARTS 2 GET WARM-THEN ALOT OF WATER WILL BOIL OUT--------IF THE THERMO IS GOOD -U WILL C WATER MOVEMENT(FLOW) AFTER THE ENGINE WARMS UP.

Blown head gasket?

Air trapped in the system (hasn't bled out yet)?

Wrong cap?

What are you asking; what the function of the warning system(s) are or what could be causing it/them to turn on? In general: Most cooling systems only have warning systems for excessive temperatures, i.e temeprature gauge and/or warning lights. Some may have a warning system for low coolant levels in the expansion (header) tank also. In rare cases, there are systems for cooling system pressure and glycol dilution levels. If any one of these systems are active, it indicates either a fault in the cooling system or prehaps in the sender unit and/or warning system itself, i.e. high temp warnings upon a cold start. Signs of cooling systems problems are a regular loss of coolant, high engine operating temps, ineffective cooling fans, pregnant hoses, a hot smelling motor when running, peeling paint on the rad itself etc If you are a little more specific prehaps I can help more. Thanks, CHarlie

you can drive with radiator boiling but will do damage to engine if driven far better to let vehicle cool down, refill with coolant to get it to shop and have problem fixed or call a wrecker to tow it

If it had no leaks it would not be loosing coolant. So therefore it does have a leak. It can be leaking in a spot where the coolant burns away before dripping on the ground. Also a blown head gasket is a possibility. Look for coolant in the oil. A heater core can leak. Do you smell coolant inside the car or are the windows fogging up or developing a film. You need to have a pressure test run on the cooling system and find this leak.

It depends on the application. More info needed.

The thermostat opens to allow the hooter fluid in the engine to escape to the radiator and be colled by the air passing thru the fins of the rad. It is then pumped via the water pump from the bottom of the rad back into the engine. I think you had your routing wrong.

WHEN YHE ENGINE HEATS UP TO 180 OR 190 DEGREES DEPENDING ON THERMOSTAT.THE THERMOSTAT OPENS AND STARTS TO CIRCULATE IN RETURN COOLINS ANTI FREEZE.....HOPES THIS HELPS

The bigger operational difference is that the inlet thermostat will have to have some means to sample the warmer coolant circulating in the engine via a dedicated bypass or other hose. The outlet thermostat will not need this because it is usually integral to the engine block coolant passages and readily gets warmed coolant routed to it.

Heater core leaking?

Without knowing the average depth of your pool, it is impossible to know. However, assuming the average depth of your pool is 4 feet, it hold 15360 gallons of water.

I assume this readiator is in a non-turbo car. The fan units are attached to the radiator itself. Once you remove the whole radiator fans and all it will be much easier to work on. The radiator is held in place by two clamps at either top side of the unit. Remove feed and return hoses, and unplug two temp sensors at bottom of radiator. Remove trans cooler lines (if auto trans). The fan units are secured to the radiator by four screws.

flush your cooling system, you may have blockage in your radiator not allowing the water too cool, but if the radiator is that plugged up its probably no good. look at the radiator to see if there is any corosion or small leaks in the little fins in the middle, i have had a few that were plugged so bad that when i flushed the radiator it leaked. if that does not work it could be the water pump. ive also had a plugged heater core, and extreme amount of rust, from poor coolant system management, plugging off water ports in the engine and in the head gasket on the engine.

Headgasket or head may have gone bad and hydrolically locked the motor.

Every 160 000 km if it has Dexcool in the rad.

Right in front of the motor and behind where the hood latches. Follow the top radiator hose if you have any doubt.