Shocks and Struts

You will need a set of spring compressors, and it's not too difficult. pull back the carpet in the trunk, and remove the rubber cups over the strut mounting bolts. The bolts will require an offset 11/16 or larger wrench and an Allen key to break loose. Once the top is loose, compress the spring, remove the two bolts at the wheel location, and the strut should drop out with the spring. This is a tedius job but not too difficult.

Support the hatch with a broomstick or other object. The hatch witout anys support is HEAVY. Remove one support strut by removing the bolts. The new strut comes with new hardware, ball sockets, etc. Install as shown on the picture directions that are included. Make sure you save an old bolt because the replacements that I used did not use all the old holes. Align the struct in the same direction as the old one. Carfully try to lower the hatch after installing the first replacement. Then repeat for the second one. Keep in mind there is a different strut number for cars with the spoiler, which is due to the extra weight of the spoiler. I ordered my repalcements from a venodr on eBay.

The biggest part of replacing calipers is bleeding the system after the calipers are replaced. I just pinch off the hoses nearest to the calipers with vice grips to minimize fluid lost. Then replace the caliper assy. After reinstalling the brake hoses, you may need to bleed the brakes, but sometimes you can get away with not doing it if you have a good brake pedal. If not, then bleed the calipers starting with the furthest one from the master cylinder. Some cars can be bled either with the car on or off, depending. If it doesn't want to bleed well with the car off, then bleeding with the car running might be necessary. You will need two of you or a hand held vacuum pump.

Ohio counties apply sales tax in addition to the state rate (5.5% at the time of this post). The 'Sources and related links' below has the latest rates.

http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/FORD/ESCAPE-2002

on the drivers side you remove the kick panel if i remember right and the three nuts on the top plate can be gotten with various wrenches. the passenger side is accesed through the glovebox. theres an access panel inside that's a little difficult to identify but now you know what youre looking for. the bottom section is the same as any other car, just be careful of the abs wires.

As far as tools go, your most important will be the spring compressor. You can pick up a pair from AdvanceAutoParts for about $40.

14mm sockets/wrench

23mm socket/wrench

Also you can borrow a loan-a-tool from Autozone or Advance Auto. You pay a deposit for the spring compressor and you get your money back when you return the compressor.

It has Struts and not shocks. If the car is bouncing or floating whenever you hit a dip in the road, or seems to handle poorly, these are signs of worn struts. A leak in one of the struts is also a sign of a bad strut. Mileage is another factor. Struts today will last a long time, but if the car has over 100,000 miles, then more than likely the struts need replacing. As to replacing them, unless you have the proper tools and knowledge, take it to a pro. Serious injury can occur when replacing struts, if you don't know what you are doing.

no--bearings and tires are the most likely cause of roaring--esp if it gets louder as you roll faster

shock absorbers , front and rear

Whenever the shocks are deficient... e.g., leaking oil, damaged, excessively hot after driving.

usually racing car and sports car will use this form of suspension. All F1 cars have double wishbone both front and rear.

Honda S2000, Mazda miata, Nissan 350z.... all those sports cars have double wishbone suspension on front at least. Mazda miata used to have it on both front and rear. but the latest generation switched to multilink suspention on rear for a little more comfort trading off handling.

My understanding: if you want a car that feels sporty, you should get one with this type of suspention.

BTW BMW3 has macpherson on front , and it still has very good handling.

Bilstein

I don't think. Just get a repair manual. Yes, it is $20-30 but it will pay for itself very quickly.

you will need spring compressers they will come in different styles this is a hazardous task.you will have 2,3 or 4 nuts or bolts on top of the strut tower there will be a cap over a nut in the center of tower(this is the nut that holds the spring compressed DO NOT REMOVE THIS YET) lift car where wheel is off the ground you will remove the upper strut nuts/bolts and there will be 2 bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle on the bottom remove them and remove the castle nut on outer tie rod end tie rod end separator is usful place strut in spring compressor and compress this is when you remove the center nut release pressure on spring the reverse process to reassemble CAUTION MOST STRUT SPRNGS HAVE ABOUT 1500 PSI SO BE CAREFUL you will need to get a front end alignment after this change the rear will be very simalar with out tierod end and smaller no alignment willbe needed

Right after replacing shocks they are super stiff and the only way to compensate for this is to either wait for them to break in, which can take months or you can add a couple of hundred pounds to the trunk. Bags of potting soil are sold in 50 pound bags and are easy to add or remove as many as you need. When the car begins to ride too soft, remove the bags as needed. I have used this method to give the rear of a truck some weight for a smoother ride so the truck didn't ride like a wagon.

You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

-Again, there are no good manuals for this car, only older models, not the 1990-92.

Anyways, you will need to rent a spring compressor from Autozone or the like, they will usually refund you when you bring it back. Jack the car and remove the tire on the side you want to start. Compress the spring with your new tool so it doesn't take off when you detach the strut. You will need to remove the bolts connecting the strut to the wheel hub. I believe they are either 14mm or 16mm and there are two of them. Then remove the top nut of the strut. You will need to pop the hood to gain access. It's the one in the center of the housing on the strut tower. The strut should pull out now. Keep the spring compressed until you have the new one back in place. It really doesn't take too long. Good luck!

form_title=Coil and Strut Replacement form_header=Keep your car running in tip top shape! We will help find you an auto expert to replace your coil and struts. What is the year, make and model of your vehicle?=_ What kind of driving do you normally do, road travel or more offroad? = {} Have you ever had any coil and strut replacement done on your vehicle before?= () Yes () No () Not Sure Describe the problem in detail.=_

You may not necessarily need them, but it would be aggravating to have to pull them apart again 6 months from now. If it were me, I would change the mounts and the springs while they are out, especially if you have more than 100,000 miles. If you hear a clunk while hitting bumps, or if the center metal piece of the mount comes loose easily after removal from the strut, the mount is probably finished- replace it.

A broken strut will cause a bumping sound when the wheel hits a pothole or bump. It will also make the same sound if the wheel spins under hard acceleration.

Under the hood on the passenger side front corner.

If you are having trouble with you suspension and would like to get some answers please go check out Strutmasters they are really great and will be glad to help you with any of your suspension parts and shocks and struts.

dose a 2005 kia amanti strut need pressed in place

That would be static electricity, caused by friction.

STRUTS ARE PRETTY MUCH ALL THE SAME. OPEN THE HOOD AND REMOVE THE NUT FROM THE TOP OF THE STRUT. JACK UP THE CAR AND REMOVE THE TIRE . UNBOLT THE STRUT FROM THE MOUNING BRACKET AND PULL THE STRUT OUT OF THE CAR. NOW BE CAREFULL ON THIS ONE, YOU HAVE TO GO EITHER RENT OUR BARROW A SPRING COMPRESSOR. HOOK THE SPRING COMPRESSOR ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE SPRING AND COMPRESS IT FAR ENOUGH THAT YOU CAN GET THE CAP NUT OFF THE TOP. THEN JUST POP OUT THE STRUT. PUT THE NEW STRUT INTO PLACE , REPLACE AND TIGHTEN THE CAP NUT AND THEN UNTORQUE THE SPRING. PUT BACK INTO CAR THE SAME WAY IT CAME OUT. USE TO BE FOREST CITY AUTO WHEN THEY WERE STILL OPEN WOULD DO THE SPRING COMPRESSION AND REPLACEMENT FOR YOU FOR A SMALL FEE ALL YOU HAD TO DO IS GET THEM OUT OF THE CAR. I DONT KNOW IF ANYONE DOES THAT ANYMORE BUT YOU COULD ASK AROUND. GOOD LUCK!!