Toyota 4Runner

Take it in and get a garage with an impact gun to remove them before you strip them and possibly cost yourself a rim.

Try jacking up the car and putting it on a jackstand. Put the lug wrench on the lugnut, use the lugwrench to spin the wheel in the opposite direction of loosening then jerk the lugwrench the loosening direction using the momentum from the wheel to help you loosen it.

You may want to try www.autozone.com they may have the diagram for a truck of that year.

Remove the dip-stick (the long metal piece that you check the fluid with) use a small holed funnel to add the fluid in this hole. Pour slow to not spill.

I found out that the cables on the speed sensor become loose or toast, so just check them out. is on the driver side on the transmission. is easy to fix.

Many of the code scanners that are available will reset codes and turn off the indicator light IF THAT IS POSSIBLE WITH YOUR VEHICLE. Since all vehicle manufacturers have a different idea of what's the right way to build a car, they all have different ways to build a computer as well.

On this model Toyota , there is a input sensor that reads the speed and also the input on the selector shaft for the 4wd, it reads the position of the arm and gear. if it fails to engage or align , this will cause the 4x4 light to flash. there is a failure.especially if you ride in AUTO where it switches on and off, it has monitored a failure, either it has not engaged when told to or it has not dis-engaged when the control module has told it to until needed. If you are in auto, or system off, with vehicle cold, warm to normal operating and then text book turn on /set manually for the 4WD to engage. listen for any gear clatter or harsh syncronizing sounds. if the light has stopped flashing and stays permanantlly on the 4wd has sucesfully engaged. make a small pass in forward gear and revers and then manually turn off the 4WD system, if the light stays off everything is well. people may say just disconnect the battery for 10-15 sec and that will reset the light, yes and no. many toyotas have "retained power/retained memory" and keep alive power so yu may have to keep it disconnected for about 5-10 min. if yu like and then if the lights off repeat steps of manually engaging and dissengaging the 4WD.

Kongkit Raggan-Supatanampon

89in lbs and then an additional 30 degrees

No there is not a fuse. The motor for the power windows could be going out. It happens all the time in middle aged cars.

It is where the lower radiator hose (driver side) connects to the engine. Remove the housing (3 bolts) and the t-stat sits inside with its gasket. I believe on some models it is on the upper radiator hose.

Most likely due to bad spark plug wires... I've had these go bad several times over the life of the car. Also be sure to use the correct dual-ground spark plugs.

there are two push spring type buttons at the corner of each seats, push them down an pull the seat forward. the seats are 40/60 fold down. so one button folds only one part of the seat. If you are talking about the Sedan then the seats don't come down but can be removed. Look in the trunk for hexes.

you can do a pressure test to see if is pumping out the right psi.

There are two screws in the top of the dash facing around the instrument cluster above the clear shield,two more screws underneath near the steering column.Remove this next pull the fan switch knob and temperature switch off(slides off towards you).Remove the plastic knobs one for vent,heat,bi-level,etc, and fresh,recirculate off(straight pulling off towards yourself) they just stick onto the metal end where they attach.Now there will be one Phillips head screw exposed closest to the gauge cluster that once the gauge cluster facing is removed and,remove the two nuts that are at the fan,temp setting since the knobs are off.The only thing left is one screw behind a plastic cover plate on the right side at the fresh air knob.Use a small flat head screw driver to lift it up and remove that.Know the plastic with the vents,cubby hole, will come free.This will give you access to the 12 volt/cigarrette lighter.Disconnect the plug to it,not sure how this is held in place exactly.Just remove it and buy a new part,these are pretty common and the aftermarket versions should fit with a standard two prong plug in.I would suggest taking the original to the store to ensure a proper match.Hope this helps take like 10 minutes to remove parts above at most.You may have to use some needle nose pliers to pull the fan/temperature adjustment switch covers.

The fuse box is under the hood in the front in a black box.

YES! "Regular" oil is what is mixed with synthetic to make semi-synthetic. Try to use the same brand. I've heard it's not good to mix the different additives that different companies use.

Replace

Testing the fuel pump is easy, and makes sense prior to dropping the tank to replace the pump. In the Engine Compartment on the passenger's side, there is a small box located on the fender well and should read "Diag" or "Diagnos". Open this box, on the inside/top of the box, there is a diagram for the electrical layout. One should be labelled "FP", and is most likely top left. Take a test wire and plug it into the "FP" receptacle and jump directly to positive side of battery terminal. If your pump is good, you will hear it running. If your pump is good, you most likely have a problem with your fuel pump relay located in the passenger's kick panel.

Use a 4.0 litre Prado engine or the Lexus quad cam 4.2 litre V8

That information is in your owner's manual. The "Maint" light means it's time to change the oil. 4500 miles after being reset it will flash several times when you start the engine. That's a warning to prepare for servicing. At 5000 miles the light will come on and stay on indicating you're overdue for service. Once you've changed the oil and filter you'll have to reset the light. That's a little like doing the Hokey Pokey but it goes like this: 1. Turn on the key but don't start the engine.

2. Push the odometer reset stem until you see the total mileage number in the display

3. Turn the key off

4. Push and hold the stem while turning the key on (don't start the engine)

5. Watch the display. The numbers will change to a series of dashes (---------)

6. Once all the numbers are gone the "Maint" light will go off. Release the stem and turn the key off. Now you're good to go for another 4500 miles (or 5000 miles if you manage to ignore the blinking light when you start the engine). Cheers

The Toyota 4runner factory alarm system is quite difficult to disable since it is part of the computer and wiring of the general electrical system that operates the electric locks, horn and ignition. Frequently, the alarm does not work right: You may experience the following: The alarm activates every time you merely unlock the car, and will not turn off until you put the key in the ignition. Many owners have disabled the horn as a simple method. Your best bet is that you will have to go to the dealer to attempt to disable the alarm. Bear in mind, when the alarm does not work right is is because one of the door lock alarm wires has been removed or disabled. If one of the alarm wires to any of the door locks is merely cut or is broken, the alarm system will not work right. This happens alot when you have to replace a door due to an accident, and the auto body shop does not line up all of the wires. This is not an easy thing to fix, even to try to "rig" it in your backyard. Becuase you got to find the door that has the bad alarm wire, and then take it apart to find the bad wire. The most notorious culprit is the rear door hatch. If you can locate the alarm wire to the rear door hatch (or the door you suspect has the problem) and either reattach it or add a wire and somehow connect the "problem" wire to another door that has the wire and is working correctly. Again, these alarm wires cannot be merely "cut" and go nowwhere. They must complete a circuit, and if the circuit is not complete the whole alarm system malfunctions. Thus--you can try hooking the "problem" alarm wire ---to an alarm wire to a door that the lock is working properly.

by eating lots and lots of sweets and make you weigh over 45 stone and wear glasses!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! make sure you run 2 miles a dyay and eat lots of protein and carboydrates

The first thing to check is the rear wiper arm. It needs to be "parked" properly in order for the rear window to work. Shake it up and down a little and then push it up onto its ramp. If it still wont go, remove the trim panel and steel cover. Unplug one of the wire connectors to one of the door latches and jump the harness side. close the gate and see if the window goes up. If it does, replace that latch. If it doesnt, jump the wires on the harness for the other side. one of these 3 things should make the window work.

You also might have an open circuit. Have your tailgate wiring checked or replace the wire harness from the cotrol module to the tailgate.......this should fix your problem...But first, check the tail fuse at junction block #1 ( engine compartment)....

Fuse block in engine compartment right side.

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