Toyota Camry

Step by step instructions. I used this and it works to a T. http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Toyota/PDF/869017.pdf

Stands for Electronic Controlled Transmission. The button switches the transmission between Normal & Power Mode. The Power Mode changes the shift pattern to allow the transmission to up-shift at a higher RPM. For instance the Normal Mode up-shift will occur at 37 mph and the Power Mode up-shift will occur at 47 mph. Fuel economy will suffer in the Power Mode. Normally you would leave it in the Normal Mode unless you want a little more sporty feel.

DEPENDS ON THE MAKE AND MOTOR BUT MOST ARE A PRESS FIT INTO THE BLOCK WITH A RUBBER O RING AT THE BOTTEM. GOOD LUCK

There should be a fastner that secures the tube assembly near the top of the engine. after this is removed you should be able to just pull the tube right out of engine, you may find it comes out better if you twist it while pulling.

Tools needed: Phillps screwdriver and #10mm Socket. Unscrew 5 screws that hold grill on. Unscrew the 2 screws that hold the headlight bezel on (underhood). Unscrew the 2 screws to the turn signal light. There is a bolt behind it you need to undo to remove the headlight. Unscrew the sidemarker light. It is on top in corner..and remove it by jiggling it forward. Using ratchet and#10mm socket, unbolt the remaining 3 bolts that hold the light assembly on.Pull gently towards you/out...but not to far as there are 2 plugs that must be unhooked first. Depress the center tab on each and they should unplug/slide off. There are 3 screws that hold a locking cover on that you need to remove to get to the bulb. Pay attention on how it is installed. Remove, replace with new bulb and use some bulb grease on connectors to keep moisture out. Plug the new lightbulb in and reinstall the light aseembly using one bolt to hold in place. Test headlight by turning key to 'on' and turn headlights on. If it works turn key off and continue doing the reverse as listed above. If not, check your connections. Good Luck. Oh...and while you're at it, you might as well replace the working side since you just did the majority of the labor. :)

You put the truck on ramps and pull thre transmission pan off. And then you will see the filter in there. Very easy to install once you have the pan off. I have done many of them I learned from experince.

re; replacing a starter on a 1987 cutlass cierra is very hard as the one in mine just went. it is best to bring it to a mechanic as the whole engine has to be jacked up and it is well over a 3 hour job. cost me around $300 that was with new starter and labor and it was worth it prices will vary wherever you live. hope that helps

Not being a chemist, I'm not sure how the seals will react. I've heard stories about seal swelling problems when adding a wrong fluids to a system. I had tried an experiment, setting seals into different fluids to monitor swelling over a period of a week with no conclusive results. Since the fluids are different, you don't know how the properties aside from swelling will affect the power steering. Such as how well it compresses, viscosity and so on. I would flush the system this week if it was mine. pukenstein@aol.com

FIX THE WHEEL. A bent wheel can be straightened with the right equipment & right training. First the wheel has to be dismounted!! Anyone (mobile wheel repair units) that tell you otherwise are full of Da Bien(mandarin for s**t). Factory wheel radial runouts are 10/1000 of an inch with aftermarket wheel tolerances 15/1000 of an inch. Repairs can be very simple, bring it to a professional, yes it's that simple. Let those trained & NEWWCRA certified to fix wheels fix your wheel Al's Hubcaps ALSHUBCAPS.COM

The firing order on a 1993 Toyota truck with a 4-cylinder . 22RE is 1, 3, 4, 2. The number one cylinder can be found at the front of the engine, closest to the grill.

More than likely, if the tire is not flat, and the steering wheel shakes, your problem is a bulge in your tire. As someone else has said, it is probably caused by a bad tire. It may have a broken belt. Also, some tires develop flat spots if the car sits too long. Does it happen constantly or just when you start driving? As a last suggestion, I would check that all of your lug nuts are on tight. If a wheel is loose, you might experience sloppy driving - especially going around corners. The problem should be resolved when the wheel falls off. The "bulge" refered to in answer 1, and the "bad tire" in answer 2 is PROBABLY the cause of your problem. However, a "broken belt" very seldom occurs, almost never unless the belt has been "cut" in a severe collision with a sharp edge. Also, answer 2 alludes to what we used to call, many years back, tire "morning sickness," which occured after a nylon belted tire had sat all night on the same part of the tire. The ground contact point of a tire is slightly flattened, and the nylon belts would take a temporary "set," so that until the tire was driven long enough to warm up the tread and nylon belts the temporary flat spot would cause a slight thumping and jarring. I thought that all nylon belted tires had been replaced by steel belted, meaning that issue should be non-existant today. As answer 2 asks and suggests, does it just do it [thump] when you start driving? If so, then it probably is morning sickness, and there is no cure, just live with until it is time to replace the tire(s). Also, you mention a slight shake in the steering wheel, which would suggest that the offending tire is one of your front tires. Even a thumping rear tire can be felt in the steering wheel, BUT you will also feel it more strongly through your seat if it''s on the rear. A thumping front tire can also be felt in your seat, but will feel, relatively, stronger in the steering wheel. The number one cause of bulging spots on radial tires is what is called "belt separation." A tire is made of several layers of belting material laid up like a sandwich, with the layers "glued" together. IF a flaw allows air from within the tire to work it's way into the sandwich, it can cause some of the layers to separate, fill with air, and cause a bulge, or "blister.' Due to the air pressure, this bulge can be very hard, and will cause the tire lift and thumping you describe. Answer 2 also makes a VERY GOOD SAFETY point, in that loose lug nuts on one of the wheels can cause a similar symptom, BUT left on it's own [withour proper retightening], will continue to become looser, until the wheel FALLS OF THE VEHICLE!!!! DO NOT allow this to happen. Periodicaly [spelling?] check the tightness of your lug nuts on all wheels, or have your tire service people do it. It could save your life!!!! Also, check and adjust your tire pressure REGULARLY, weekly at a minimum.

Hello all...I have just recently replaced all the dash/instrument lights in my '92 previa GL..the instrument cluster has 4 retaining screws to remove ( after you take off the heater/radio surround and the cowling over the intrument cluster) and then you gently pull the whole unit toward the steering wheel, be careful as it is attached to a steel wire underneath, so that you don't pull all the wires out of the back !!Reach behind or get out and have a look through the screen and you will find 3 large, 1/4 turn, bulb holders. A gentle twist and pull out reveals a D501 pattern bulb...I have replaced mine with BLUE NEON ones from Halfords ( �6.99 a pair ) and they look absolutely wicked.I then went on to replace the heater, cigar lighter and ashtray bulbs with blue 'pea' led's ( they work one way round and not the other...trial and error but you can't blow the bulbs..).The only ones that I haven't been able to source in blue yet are the real tiny ones that fit in the various switches...I'll post again once I find some or solve the problem in some other way.If anyone knows where I might get some...? Please let me know.

this locking mechanism is built into all cars, on this model you cant disable that feature. if you take the steering wheel and turn it so its not pushing against the lock pin in the key switch, then turn the key, it should turn easily. If you park your Camry with the front wheels pointed straight ahead, you will avoid this problem, as there will be no presure against the locking pin. If you do find the ignition locked, follow instructions in previous answer, but also be sure to firmly depress the brake pedal as you gently turn the steering wheel back and forth while at the same time trying to turn ignition key. Do NOT try to force the key, when you find the right spot for the steering wheel, the key will turn easily. p.s. if auto transmission, be sure its in PARK.

The backup light switch is under the air filter assembly. You'll have to remove the assembly to get at it. There are only two wires on top of the transaxel assembly. One is a very obvious ground wire, the other is the backup light switch.

Have fun, you'll need a 10mm wrench and a 12mm wrench for the job.

If you already know the code then you can enter or change it following the instructions in the owner's manaul. If the '97 is like others of the era you can't change it without knowing the current code. Attempting to do so actually burns out a circuit and you have to send it back to the factory to be repaired. By the way, loss of power activates the theft protection, so know the code before you change the battery, for example.

Has a Timing CHAIN. It does not need replacing for life unless it gets abused with other engine internals if yu don't do your Oil changes as required. No Belt is used on the 2.4! Only the 3.3 V6 Highlander has the Timing Belt and must be changed on a scheduled mileage/time basis.

Depends what your problem is. One common problem is that the copper contacts inside the solenoid burn and pit and the starter will not kick in (or maybe just click and not do anything). There's absolutely nothing wrong with the starter motor, nor the solenoid, only the contacts inside the solenoid housing, that pass juice on to the starter motor are bad. I have sat there, miles from home, clicked the starter over and over again and prayed that on the 173rd click it will engage (which it actually does, only at its own evil pleasure). I have repaired twice in 90K miles. If above is your problem, know that you can buy a starter solenoid repair kit (with new copper contacts) from Toyota, for less $, by a country mile, than the price of a new starter. (I actually filed and polished the old contacts once before I got wise to the repair kit.) Then, it is a matter of disassembling stuff around the starter, enough to remove the starter, put it on a bench, disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts. No rocket science, just careful, tedious work, to not break anything and get everything back together as it was. If you are not willing to let the job teach you, ask somebody else to describe the details.

Just came in the house from doing just that. First remove the heat shield from the exhaust pipes. Next I found it's best to remove the upper radiator hose. ( Gives you room to work). This now gives you some room to get at the 2 starter hold down bolts and the nut that holds the main electrical wire to the starter. Also you can now take off the little plug that goes on top of the starter.Once you take off these bolts, the starter can be removed via the exhaust pipes. The new starter will go on alot faster you'll find. Mine did. Good luck! ***************** I just replaced the starter on a 1999 Galant 3.0 V6 (1999-2003): The starter motor is located on the front of the engine behind the exhaust pipe and next to the oil filter. First disconnect the battery. Next remove the flat, angular heat shield from the starter itself (1x 8mm nut and 2x 8mm bolts). Do NOT try to remove the heat shield from the Exhaust pipe - it can't be removed with the starter in place and it's not necessary anyway. Next remove the oil filter. You'll loose a few ounces of oil so be prepared for that with a drain pan and either cover the removed filter to keep debris out or replace it and remember to check the oil level later. Remove the small signal wire from the solenoid (released by pushing in a tiny lever with a finger tip) and also remove the 12mm nut attaching the positive battery cable to the starter. The starter is held in place by two 14mm bolts. On the engine (passenger) side, there is a 14x30mm bolt threading into the transaxle from the bottom of the starter. On the transaxle (driver) side, there is a longer 14x50mm bolt threading into the top of the starter. Funnily enough, I just replaced the battery two weeks ago. I suspect now that the power of a new battery burned up the worn brushes in the original starter.

If you know for sure that it is not getting fuel or fire, you need to check the ECM fuse. If it is good then check the relay. If you have a professional hook up a scanner then it will tell what is wrong with it. That would be cheaoer than guessing unless you have plenty of money to waste on replacing good parts.

I thought a full tank would help but after I filled the tank, the problem has WORSENED. Its very difficult to start it now as it knocks like crazy. The car idles smoothly sometimes esp. before engaging the drive gear, after that it simply stalls. If the filter is clogged then the car would not start at all. Right? Please suggest. Thanks. check to see if your fuel filter is clogged..also might need a fuel pump

The '96 Camry power locks and windows fuse is a type C 30-amp rectangular block, pink in frame color with a transparent face. The location is just nuts, if you ask me---took my 14-yr old son to find it. It is located to the right of the instrument panel fuse block, partially obscured by a heating/cooling duct. To get to it, open the tray at the driver's left knee, squeeze the sides to release them, and pull the tray out completetly. Next, remove the two trim panel screws that secure the black plastic piece in front of the fuse block. To the right of the block is a black connector on a white plastic cover. There are three type C fuses near this cover and the blue plastic piece behind it. One is above, two are together to its right. Number 34 (the one you want) is the upper one of the two to the right. Here's where I disappoint you---I didn't pull mine out. I was able to inspect it by compressing the sides of the plastic ductwork and peeking in with a flashlight (it was still good), but I don't have any idea of the easiest way to extract that fuse. It may be possible to drop out the whole fuse block panel from behind the dash, but I really don't know. Sorry I can't help further.

Well, if you're not good with a clothes hanger or if you're not a professional car thief, then call AAA. You could break a window but that is not usually a good idea. You are going to have to call a locksmith to have him unlock the key and make a new key.

Owners manual not good. Fuse is 15a marked cig behind storage door just to left of steering wheel. clock and radio will work on replacement. Not-Not the 15a dome light fuse as noted in the owners manual. Great job toyota.