VW New Beetle

You have to pull the headlight assembly out. There is a lever on the inside of the car around the assembly that you lift (rotate) to unlock the assembly. If there's a lot of road dirt up there it can stick. Then you can pull the headlight out. Be carefull, on one side there's an additional "lock" that you have to press to release the lever. I found out the hard way when I snapped the lever off. After changing the bulb, there are two, one high and one low beam, installation is the reverse.

It should be around your mainfold or throttle body, or just follow your top hose that goes to your radiator.

First, loosen the clutch cable, and remove the wing nut all the way and pull the cable out of the way. Mark the outside of the arm in case you forget which way it goes back together. Look at the end of the shaft where the arm attaches. There is a small circlip (circular clip with 2 small holes). Spray it down with WD40 or equivalent and let it soak a few. Remove the circlip...you will need some circlip pliars specially designed to remove and install the clip. Then, the arm should slide out, off of the shaft. Some prying might be needed to get it started...just be careful not to force anything. The old, and probably broken, spring will come off now. Reassemble. The arm is splined so that it only goes on one way. Take a good look so that you see how the splines work and how to get it back together. Rememer which side is the outside? Hook the 'hook' part of the spring around the arm and slide the arm and spring back on the shaft. The spring is correct as long as the hook part of the spring wraps around and contacts the part of the arm closest to the front of the vehicle. As you start sliding the arm onto the shaft, you will see that the straight part of the spring end needs to be popped up onto the shelf near the front of the vehicle...giving it it's springing action. This can be a little tricky, but not too bad. Once you have the spring seated correctly, the arm will slide all the way back on. It is all the way in as long as the groove that the circlip fits into is visible. Finally, replace the circlip and readjust the clutch. Don't tighten the cluth too much, or it will ride your throughout bearing and wear your cluch prematurely. There should be just a tad of slop in the pedal before you feel the clutch start to engage. And last thing...be really careful if you are jacking up your vehicle and working under it. Always work on a flat and hard surface. Always use jack stands and block the front wheels. Have fun and be safe.

you must take the top module off the engine and then remove the rubber plugs that are on top of the spark plug, then use the spark plug sockets to get them out you must take the top module off the engine and then remove the rubber plugs that are on top of the spark plug, then use the spark plug sockets to get them out you must take the top module off the engine and then remove the rubber plugs that are on top of the spark plug, then use the spark plug sockets to get them out

I have a 99 Elantra, so I'll assume it's the same as mine. There's a few bolts on the top of the engine on a plastic cover. (The middle part where the plug wires run under) Undo those, and the plastic cover should come right off. Follow the plug wires, and there's your plugs. They are recessed into the engine. Pull the wires off, and you'll need a spark plug socket and an extension piece, it's probably a 6 inch deep hole. Carefully remove the plugs, and replace them with new ones. Make sure you torque them properly. You can find such information either from the plug manufacturer or from Hyundai. Make sure to put dielectric grease on the spark plug wire ends to prevent moisture from getting in there, and to ease removal in the future. You can find all sorts of neat information by creating a free account at hmaservice.com.

If it is anything like my 1990 Generation I Legend, then there is a spring that attachs to the corner marker light and then to the body. It can be accessed from right behind the headlight, from inside the hood. Find the metal loop end of the spring and pull it towards you to dislodge it. Then the marker light which is held in by the sping and a plastic tab should come right out with gentle pulling.

You more or less can't. You will be a stand alone or piggy back ECU and program that instead.

there is a special tool to adjust the rear camber, as far as i know its only available through Snap-On. Most service garages do not carry this tool, but a dealer would.

turn the middle knob to #2 get a small pair of pliers wrap a cloth around the switch! then pull outward! get a flashlight and look in. now find a peice of hose to fit around the bulb and pull it out.... install in the same order

Directly below the light, under the bumper cover, is a black triangular piece of plastic. Remove the 3 screws with the proper sized torx bit. This will give you access to the lamp wiring. Turn the light housing counter clockwise about a quarter inch and remove. Lamp can then be replaced. After doing so, rub the lamp with a alcohol wipe to remove any oils left from your finger, as not doing so will severely shorten the life of the lamp by creating a hot spot. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Newer vehicles say they can do up to 7500 miles on a oil change. I would never do that though. The more frequently you change the oil the better it is for the vehicle no matter if it is a Mercedes or a Buick. I try to change mine at least no more than 5000 miles. I use sythetic oil and have been happy with the results. It is seems to start easier on those cold morings and also the synthetic doesnt break down near as easily as regular petroleum based oils. I hope this helps you. Good luck.

In your owner's manual.

Had the same problem with mine. The dealership told me it was the backup light switch.

I had the same problem, as do 99% of VW beetle owners. There was a recall on the Brake Light Switch. Call your dealer and they should change it for free. I did. It worked for a bit, but now i think one of my brake lights is out again.

Make sure you have your foot all the way down solid on the brake pedal. There is a locking mechanism that prevents the car from being moved out of park unless the brake is firmly depressed. A mis-adjusted brake switch or the lock mechanism could go bad also, so listen for a light clicking sound when you press the brake (releasing the lock mechanism). If you dont' hear anything, it might be broke or stuck. I am not aware of anything special other than that.

Open the hatch. Right behind the light fixture that contains the bad bulb is a cover plate inside the trunk. Remove it and reach inside. You'll find two big plastic nuts that hold the fixture in place. Remove both (they turn with the hand) and push the fixture out of the fender. Unhook the wire to the bulb, twist the socket to get it out, change the bulb, put the socket back in and reconnect the wire, put the fixture back in, put the nuts back on and replace the cover.

EOBD Socket is located in the lower dash panel near to the steering wheel

first take of the cover if you have one it will be round or a sideways H, take out the bolts that are holding the horn on, then take the bolts out that are holding the steering wheel in place.

Go to this website and enter your car info. Find the belt, then click on "routing"

http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/dayco/index.php?bgInterchange=1&l=n

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology.

The entire assembly comes out of the car. You have to VERY CAREFULLY with a screw driver pop the clips that hold it in the car. Put the screwdriver under the rubber ring on the outside of the light and carefully pry out. There are 2 or 3 located around the light. Once the light assembly pops out, you can get to the bulb. You will hear the assembly pop back into place when you put it back in.

If the parking brake is connected to these calipers a special tool is required (not expensive) because piston is threaded. Tool available at Sears or auto parts store

Start the car and rev it to at least 1500RPMs. Use a voltmeter to test the voltage across the two battery terminals (under the back seat). If it tests out at around 13.8-14.5 volts the alternator is working.

If it tests out at 12.6 volts or below the alternator isn't charging.

If it tests out above 14.5 volts the alternator is charging, but the voltage regulator isn't working correctly.

Start by taking the top off of the coolant overflow reservoir. To bleed the system, run the 1998 VW 2.0 Beetle about 10 minutes, then check the coolant level. Add coolant if needed, then replace the reservoir top.

It is important to know where to get replacement car parts. For a 1965 International D1100 the brake lights usually have to be ordered from a local auto part store.

Head Bolts for a VW 1600 Dual Port is m10 nuts = 23 ft. lbs. and the m8 nuts = 18 ft. lbs.

You go on E bay and search for VW tools for radio removal and see the shape of tool. Take a hack saw blade, cut 2 to about 4" grind off teeth and make the curved shape & blade a little narrower. Slide the pointed end in small slots below the knobs with the curve facing inside of radio. Gently pry out radio.