VW Vanagon

The turn signal flasher is under the instrument panel to the left of the sterring colunm brace. (note I'm still looking for mine).

The turn signal flasher on a 1986 Honda Civic is located on the cabin fuse box. It will be plugged into the fuse box and its backside.

Start by lifting the carpet out and removing the skid plate that holds down the carpet by the sliding door, there are 4 screws. then using a size 13 socket remove the 4 bolts under the seat. then you will find 4 more bolts on the side of the seat. using a size 16 metric socket remove those bolts. By now you should be able to slid the seat out. watch out its heavier then you think.

I have had my flasher unit go bad. I was surprised when neither myself, a reputable auto parts store, nor the parts dept. at the local Dodge dealer knew where it was. A peak in the biggest parts book revealed it to be part 1-56021915AA, and it is located on a fuse block attached to the main block behind the driver side access door. The relay is accessable from under the dash, its way up high on the fuse block and its green in color. There may be bundles of wires blocking its access, having small hands would help also. I hope this info helps out somebody.

97 Accord LX Coupe the flasher itself is down by the drivers left foot. There's a bunch of fuses there, above that is a rectangular box and above that are three black boxes. They might all be relays but the blinker box top, closest toward the back of the car.

Turn signal flasher is under the dashboard beside the steering column. Flasher unit

for the emergency flashers is on the other side of the steering column.

sorry bro l cant trpe it in

Under the dash. I don't know otherwise.

Pre 1974 bus seats are simple to remove as they are just held in with a small catch.

1. lift the base from the front of the seat

2. pull the back of the seat towards the windscreen

3. push down/wiggle the seat and out it pops.

You are incorrect. It does indeed have an O2 sensor. Purchase a repair manual at most parts stores, ( around $12 ) for detailed instructions on this and many other repairs. Volvo calls it a Lambda Sond system, and the sensor screws into the exhaust pipe just after they come from the exhaust manifold

4.8 quarts after a filter change.

If you want to do this yourself purchase the Haynes or Bentley manual for your car. Haynes and Bentley produce excellent manuals that others cannot compare to. Chiltons manuals are useless do not waste your $$$

I have had my flasher unit go bad. I was surprised when neither myself, a reputable auto parts store, nor the parts dept. at the local Dodge dealer knew where it was. A peak in the biggest parts book revealed it to be part 1-56021915AA, and it is located on a fuse block attached to the main block behind the driver side access door. The relay is accessable from under the dash, its way up high on the fuse block and its green in color. There may be bundles of wires blocking its access, having small hands would help also. I hope this info helps out somebody.

get a pot of plus gas, take out spark plugs pour about 25ml of plus gas down each bore and leave for 24hrs make sure the battery has been fully charged

preferably repalce sparkplugs; or for economy clean and reset gap, then bake in an oven for about an hour at about 140 C this removes any moisture that may be present in the plug.

before replacing the sparkplugs slowly turn the engine over by hand.

check the points are set correctly, if pitted or corroded replace, if your replacing these then also replace the condenser.

Note old petrol will have gone off, and you will need to drain this out and refill the tank with some fresh fuel.you should now be ready to try and start your dub.at this point you may need to place a teaspoon of petrol down the carburettor, and piece of rag to choke the carb while some one else turns it over. It should fire up queit quickly but may need a number of goes before she'll run on her own

her are a few links to some other helpful sites

http://www.vwheritage.com/vwh/VW-Camper-Van-Parts%5CBus-Parts-1968-79%5CElectrical%5CIgnition-Starter%5C?templateID=vwh

http://www.vdubs.freeuk.com/downloads/solex.pdf

http://www.type2.com/library/fuel/kuhn1.htm

2002 Montana Seat Repair

• My first guess is the neighbor's cat trying to get out from underneath the hood. However, if you see no hair, I would question if the oil is getting up to the valves efficiently. I can do a little research, but I would need the engine size, how often you change the oil, what weight oil you use (5w30?) and does the noise come from above the engine or below? Is the noise a heavy knock or more of a tapping? Post a follow-up here, and I'll try to help.
• Replace the PCV valve. I've had similar problems with a Saturn, I even had to replace a whole motor because it consumed too much oil. I discovered that the new engine was doing the same thing. After replacing the PCV, everything was back to normal.
• There is a TSB about cylinder head gaskets leaking on these cars. This kind of leaks can have various symptoms including those that your having.
• Sounds like car has been overheated and has a collapsed piston skirt. This will cause piston slap until piston heat up and expand.
• Synthetic oil is too thin for a used engine. You should use a straight weight oil, like 30W. Sometimes a flex plate on the transmission will develop cracks and make noise when cold (been there). If the oil pressure is low, there could be a knock, which synthetic oil can cause in an older engine because it is too thin. If there is a check valve in the oil filter or a cheap oil filter, it could be letting the oil drain from the oil pump.
• A cold knock is usually caused by piston to cylinder wall excessive clearence. sometime on a quick rebuild .even with spread the piston skirt. you will get a knock. a low down in the engine heavy knock is main bearings. a fast knock is the rods bearing our a cracked piston. a tapping upper niose is valve lifts in a hydraulic lifter engine. in a solid lifter engine you cah adjust the noise out. some time you will have change the rocker arms our resurface. a bearing knock get louder with temperature. pistons expand with tempiture quiting the noise you need any experinced mechanic to tell you what is wrong, in person. long distance diagnose is hard. hold it up to the phone and let me hear it turbo joe.
• It sounds like you're transmission is beginning to collapse. Is it an automatic? If so, you might want a professional mechanic to examine this IMMEDIATELY. If you don't not only will it become undrivable but it could eventually affect the rest of the engine like a series of bombs taking out individual parts. I had a experience very much like what you're describing with a 95 Buick Skylark and by the time it was looked at 2/3 of the engine was destroyed. Good luck!
• Sometimes if you do not change your oil and the oil breaks down into sludge because you didnt change your oil in time you get whats called a stuck lifter and it can cause a loud rocking slapping noise they have engine cleaners that are on the market some aren't so good so choose wisely.
• Oil... and really watch what oil you use... newer hondas and other foeregn jobs have small ports for oil circulation.... well for the oil to return to the bottom... that could cause rod knock... and since the oil isn't going back down right away to get pumped it would cause the rockers to rattle a bit... but when it warms up finally the oil will flo better.... cant remember which company... but if you popped the motor by using the wrong oil they wont cover a damn cent.... even if its only 3 4 months old.
• Ok there right but if u had bad rings 1 the car would smoke and 2 the car wouldn't have power now i had a 94 thunderbird with a 3.8 and i got the same knocking or tapping and it was a ristpin which is located on the piston if you didnt know now most likely if its a tapping noise from the top of the engine it is normally a callapsed lifter which happen you wont lose power and it wont smoke but to cure the noise use a heavy weight oil such as 20/50the tap could also come from rockers if you have a cloged push rod which happens over age it will cause a lack of oil to the top if the engine process of elimination check the rockers make sure there tight and to torque sequence.
• I've had 2 Hondas, and still currently have one of them. I don't think you have anything to worry about. I was reading all of these responses and laughing...The cars run at a higher idle, which is computer driven until the engine is warm. The Vtec kicks in at higher idles (usually 4000+ rpms) but it is also driven by oil pressure. Since the oil is more viscous at colder temps, and the car is running at higher rpms, your are simply hearing some valve noise. Chances are the valves are perfectly fine. Once warm...does the car run ok, I'm guessing yes. The guy that answered saying it's the Transmission...c'mon you can't compare a Buick to a Honda!
• It's because oil, even a multi-grade like 5w30 is still too thick to flow efficiently when cold. Auto manufacturers choose an engine oil "weight" for OPERATING temperatures, not for when the engine is cold. Even a 5 or 0w oil, when cold, is thicker than a 40w at operating temp. This causes restriction in the small orifices in parts such as lifters, which is the most common source of engine tick when an engine is cold. BTW, cold is defined as a temperature less than the oil's effective operating range, 180-250F for example. That said, an oil at room temperature is still too thick. Google it.

In the engine compartment, rear right corner. Note it takes ATF, NOT power steering fluid.

Brake and clutch fluid are behind the speedometer- reach behind the plastic cover, you'll find two plastic notches- pull up (hard) on these and the cover pivots forward revealing the fluid storage.

it is located on the steering column

I believe under the dash beneath the steering wheel.

Right in front, to the left. Under the A/C if you have one.

it maybe under steering wheel to the left need to undo 3or4 screw,s all the relay,s are there,

There is no flasher. It is part of the Hazzard switch assembly. Luckily mine went out under warranty. You need to remove most of the dash to get to the part. I think the switch alone was about $70. The Impala's had a recall on this part, but not the Monte Carlos, go figure.

its by the steering wheel colum

you might have to remove the panel to get to it.

you should find it if not email me

erhack93@yahoo.com

Part of the hazard warning module

One of several things. if its a carberateur 1. Secondary is opened, 2. Needles inside carb. are bent or clogged, 3. MAF is bad, 4. the throttle cable set incorrectly 5. there is a hole in your intake 6. Vacuum problem If its Throttle body/ fuel injected 1. injectors dirty 2. connections to injectors are dirty 3. ECM is bad, or malfunctioning 4. Throttle set incorrectly 5. Vaccuum problem i hope this helped. good luck