Alternators

You will need to loosen the tensioner pulley. Put the alternator belt on. Push the tensioner pulley to the left until the alternator belt is tight. Tighten down the tensioner pulley.

There should be one female plug-in and one separate hot wire that is hot anytime the battery is hooked up.

The alternator on a Hyundai 2.7 liter engine requires removal of the plastic covers on the passenger side and the vehicle to be lifted. After securing the car remove the plastic cover in the wheel well. Disconnect the battery. Locate the alternator and remove the bolts holding it to the engine as well as all the wire connections.

u have to remove the air filter box and the engine mount to replace the belt....

If it is a "physical" failure, it'll likely be the bearings that give out - and most times, most bearings will start making a groaning or humming type sound.

If the failure is electrical in nature, it is common for there to be no sounds or symptoms like that to give you fair warning.

Low voltage resulting is things like starting problems, battery not charging, dimming lights, will be common symptoms of a failed alternator.

Check this link out. It will show you the diagram by year make and model... Copy & Paste http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/dayco/index.php?bgInterchange=1&l=n ----------------------- Or ----------------------------------- If you look down at the belt area, you will see a pulley toward the front of the car that looks like it's attached to an arm. That is the tensioner pulley. The tensioner is spring loaded. If you look at the arm of the tensioner there should be a square hole in it to insert a socket wrench or a breaker bar / pull handle to use as a lever to remove the tension from the belt. If there is no hole, then use a wrench on the bolt head of the pulley itself as your lever. As you hold the tensioner out of the way, un-loop the old belt. Pay attention to the routing, so you can reinstall the new one correctly. Then, you route the new one in and again use your lever to move the tensioner so you can get the belt over the last pulley. I usually put it over the alternator last. Use a light to make sure the belt is fully on all grooves of every single pulley before you start the car.

Sometimes when parts are new, they have coatings and etc. that will smell when parts are warm. For example, alternator windings are coated with a electrical varnish. When the alternator is charging, it creates heat. This causes the paint to smell and odors such as a burning smell can be common for a couple of days.

The first thing you have to do is disconnect the battery. (Very important). Then you have to loosen the serpentine belt that drives the alternator. The Fords usually have that adjustment right there on the alternator. You then remove the bolts that hold the alternator to the engine as well as the wires that are attached to it. Make sure when you reinstall the new alternator that you tighten the wires to it securely exactly as they came off the old one. Put the belt back on it and adjust it until the belt is snug but do not overtighten it or you will burn out the bearings in the new alternator very rapidly. If the belt squeals when you start it and rev up the engine some then the belt is too loose and needs to be tightened more.

Alternator not working properly or not connected properly. Wherever you bought the alternator take it back and have them check to make sure it works properly. Also make sure the new battery was fully charged when you received it. HTH.

Even after I put a new battery the car would not start easily. Please help.

I've been looking for a 1998 Nissan Sentra GXE Alternator Harness and it seems that they apply fairly universally, meaning the harnesses they sell on this link will most likely apply to your model.

The link is:

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=4294955288&Nr=OR(AND(make:Nissan,model:Sentra,year:1998),AND(universal:1))&Vi=1684+11370+4294963745&y=1998&mk=Nissan&md=Sentra

Those are just "Alternator Harnesses". If you find you need more wires than that, you can get the whole mess of wires it's connected to called the "Sentra HARNESS ASSY-ALTERNATOR" from this link, part 24020:

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/components/1998-nissan-sentra_wiring-240-881.html

Good luck, don't forget to check your VIN just to be safe on the second link. I just need to find out how to replace ONLY the Alternator Harness on my '98 now :P

On a 2.2L engine, do the following: (1) Disconnect the battery terminals!!! (2) Remove wire from the air intake duct by the air filter. Loosen the three hose clamps on the air duct, pop out the two plastic holding pins, and remove the upper part of the air duct. (3) Remove the air filter box. (4) Drain the radiator until the level is below the upper radiator hose. Put a rubber or plastic tube on the drain outlet at the radiator drain spigot, and catch the anti-freeze in a clean, sealable, container. (A clear tube works nice, so that you can see how it is flowing). You can put the anti-freeze back in when all done. Do NOT leave the anti-freeze where children or pets can get at it!!! (5) Remove the upper radiator hose. (6) Remove the bottom part of the air intake duct. (7)Remove the serpentine belt. Be SURE to use a correct tool on the tensioner pulley to remove the belt. (A long handled 3/8" torque wrench fitted directly into the provided hole on the tensioner works well). This would be a good time to replace the serpentine belt with a new one. (8) Remove the 3 bolts that hold the alternator. The front right one (driver's side) is very easy. The left front one requires lots of small strokes with a box wrench. The back one is reached from underneath with a socket wrench. There is a small rubber flap in the fender well that you can reach your hand through to get at this bolt very easily when you are lying under the vehicle. (9) Remove the 2 wires from the alternator. (10) Reverse procedure to install the replacement alternator.

No prob: Loosen the adjusterbolt, give the alternator a whack with a SOFT hammer towards the engine, remove the old belt mount the new one! I usally use the handle of the hammer as "lever" behind the alt. when tightening the new belt! Note: you should be able to move it 1cm. up and dowm!!! Starlet4life.dk

100 or 105 amp.

Its on the top front of the engine. Closest to the windshield and firewall.

There's an idler wheel in the surpentine belt circuit along with the AC compressor, the main crank pully and the alternator. The purpose is to keep tension on the belt, and this idler is spring-loaded. If no serpentine belt diagram is available create one before beginning the steps below. In the center of the idler is a 15mm bolt head. Place a closed-end wrench on this bolt head with the free end pointed towards the front of the vehicle and pry the idler in an upwards motion. Hold the ider in the "up" position and slip the serpentine belt off of the alternator pully with the other hand. Release tension on the wrench slowly and allow the idler to lower to it's bottom stop.

RESISTANCE-Make sure the GROUNDS are Good.Engine Grounds-Frame Grounds-Body Grounds-Battery Grounds Be careful of cheap rebuilt alternators. Sometimes cheaper is not better.

Most vehicle manufacturers now put the regulator inside the alternator.

were should i satart when replacing the alternator in a Volvo s70 1998

were should i satart when replacing the alternator in a Volvo s70 1998

You have an electrical fault in the alternator. Don't drive the car, get this fixed, or you risk a fire.

See "Related Questions" below for lots of information about Windstar alternators, but no diagrams. For those, check Autozone.com's free Repair Guide, or a printed manual at the library.

It is one of the more difficult jobs due to the fact that is is located on the passenger side by the rear wheel. I tried to take it out and realized that it was too cramped and tight to do it myself. I took it to my mechanic, Nguyen's in Santa Clara, CA, and it took his shop two hours to do it. My advice, take it to a shop unless you want to completely frustrate yourself doing it. bo

The Mk1 NA alternator is easy, two bolts and an electrical connection. Alternator is mounted like earlier automobiles, with a long bolt on bottom and an adjusting bolt on top. The Mk1 SC is much more difficult, as it was moved to the front of the engine to make room for the supercharger, and is above the AC compressor. To change the SC alternator requires either removal of the AC compressor, or (and not easy) it can be removed and reinstalled through the engine's air vent. Either way is difficult. As far as the sc model I found it far easier to remove the 3 bolts and unplug the side fan. Lay the fan all the way to the bottom of the engine compartment below and out of the way of the alternator. (You do not need to pull it completely out of the car.) Remove the outside passenger side cowl with 2 screws. Loosen the tensioner on the alternator belt then remove the belt from the alternator pulley. (First loosen the pulley nut and then back off the long tensioning bolt from the bottom.) Unplug the green plug from the alternator. Unbolt the bolt from the top and the long bolt from the bottom of the alternator. A short pry bar helps lifting the bottom of the alternator from its bracket. Then undo the 10mm nut on the charge wire. Now reach through the quarter panel and ease the alternator back and out through the vent hole in the quarter panel. It took me 30 minutes. I promise you there is no need to remove exhaust, compressor, distrubutor, or engine/trans. Hope this helps.

only if it,s a multiple voltage motor, there should be a plate showing the hook up, if,s showing 110v /220v then yes other wise NO,

The larger serpentine belt controls several functions. On this model Dodge decided to put the tensioner right up against the frame which will take you HOURS to remove parts around to gain access to the tensioner. If you get a small crowbar and apply leverage to the tensioner (from under the engine) and rent (if you return it there is no charge) a kit with a flat wrench from Advanced Auto Parts you can get it in there. Just did this today and everything is working fine. This is a two person job.

Jmike

NO/ I JUST DID MINE...COMP IS FINE..IT AUTOMATICALLY ACOMMADATES FOR IT......BUDDY MACK..