Car Electronics and Lights

The function of a light bulb in an electric circuit is that it turns electrical energy into light.

Not sure if its the same as on my '89. On the '89 it is in the centre console forward of the shifter. The '89 actually has two relays in the bos, so even if the fuel pump relay is shot, you may still here the other one click when you turn on the ignition. Hope that helps.

Probably have a short in tail light or license plate light. It could also be a bad bulb. If bulb, see sources and related links below for bulb information.

I would not go below a 200 watt unit. Not that the system draws that much power, but these systems do not like being loaded down. Over rating the unit decreases the chances that this is a problem.

Most of the smaller inverters are square wave systems or modified sine wave units. They are very hard on switching supplies and can cause computer damage.

On 1998 and earlier, raise the hood and on the driver side you will see the back of the headlight. Remove the wire plug from the back of the bulb, turn the retainer lockring counter clockwise and the bulb should simply fall out in your hand. Now comes the hard part. Very carefully un-package the new bulb and UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANSES touch the new bulb with your hands or its life will be degraded. Use a cloth to hold it and install it in reverse as you took the old one out. Take a close look at the lock ring and be sure that it goes in properely. It will only go one way. Turn it clockwise and it will lock in place. The right side is the same except the battery is very close and is not quite as easy. Be sure and hold your mouth just right and it should work out ok.

The JL audio 12W7 and the 12W6v2 are the best products. They are not only loud but produce amazing clarity and can hit all notes HIGH to LOWSS. The technology put into them blow all other products out of the water. Unlike most subs a less powerful amp is needed to use these subs which is good because you wont have to purchase a expensive amp and shows how crazy they design these machines to work superbly with less power than other companies. Plus they aren't just loud and sloppy like most subs, they are loud, clean, and can land any note of bass. If your willing to pay than the best choice would be the 12W7 then the 12W6v2. Pleasure is a guarantee when choosing either of these.

I'm almost positive that your ground wire on the amplifier is loose, check the connection to the amp and then check the connection to the ground on your car, make sure it is tight and corrosion free. If this doesn't work, make sure your ground wire is of heavy guage ( thick). make sure that the ground wire is not any longer than it has to be. Keep in mind when it comes to ground wires the bigger the better. Make sure you have a healthy ground on the car (bare metal or the frame itself). Hope this helps. Shane (vmax33)

The farad (symbol: F) is the SI unit of capacitance. It is named after Michael Faraday. Definition A capacitor has a value of one farad when one coulomb of stored charge causes a potential difference of one volt across its terminals. Explanation Since the farad is a very large unit, values of capacitors are usually in range of microfarads (μF), nanofarads (nF), or picofarads (pF). The picofarad is comically called a "puff" in laboratory usage. The millifarad is rarely used in practice, so that a capacitance of 4.7�10−3 F, for example, is usually written as 4700 μF. Very small capacitance values, such as those used in integrated circuits may also be expressed in femtofarads, one femtofarad being equal to 1�10−15 F. A new technology called supercapacitors offers devices up to the kilofarad range. The farad should not be confused with the faraday, an old unit of charge nowadays superseded by the coulomb. The reciprocal of capacitance is called electrical elastance, the (non-standard, non-SI) unit of which is the daraf. A capacitor consists of two conducting surfaces, often referred to as plates, separated by an insulating layer usually referred to as a dielectric. The original capacitor was the Leyden Jar developed in the 18th century. It is the accumulation of charge on the plates that results in capacitance. Modern capacitors are constructed using a range or manufacturing techniques and materials to provide the extraordinary wide range of capacitance values used in practical electronics applications from femtofarads to farads and voltage withstand capabilities from a few volts to a several kV.

It's called the idiot light.

It means there is a problem.

Check the oil, immediatly, as that the simple problem to fix, otherwise, get it to sears and they can read it for a few bucks. If it's a stupid problem, like a loose housing on the air filter, then you can fix it yourself.

Well... There is not a flasher in the newer dodge trucks.

However there is a IPM(integrated power module) It is a solid state non-programable box behind the instrument cluster that controls the blink/emergency lights. This IPM is not user friendly and non-replaceable by a frustrated Dodge owner. After contacting Dodge dealers it sounds as if it is never supposed to go bad/burn out. AND...that you cannot replace the turn bulbs w/ aftermarket LED replacments. Unless of course you don't mind the super fast flash/blink...OR..you and a considerable load on the circuit to slow down the IPM and make it think it has the proper buls in place.

Answered by your friendly NAPA employees.

RED-12VOLT YELLOW-MEMORY 12VOLT WHITE-FRONT LEFT+/WHITE WITH STRIPE- GRAY-FRONT RIGHT+/GRAY WITH STRIPE- GREEN REAR LEFT+/GREEN WITH STRIPE- PURPLE REAR RIGHT+/PURPLE WITH STRIPE- BROWN-MUTE ORANGE-ILLUMANATION BLUE-REMOTE(AKA)AMP TURN ON BLACK-GROUND(NEG.)

The ABS (antilock brake system) light is on because there is a problem with the ABS system. Until that problem is fixed, the light will remain on and the ABS system will not be functioning. You will still have regular brakes but without the ABS function. Take it to a qualified mechanic for repair.

The voltage regulator is NOT built in the alternator, it is part of the ECM, that is the Engine Control Module. The module (computer) monitors the charging system and signals the alternator how much voltage to send it to keep the system working properly. the voltage regulator is built in to the alternator

Stop make sure there isint a train coming then go

If the light stays on, it shows that there is a hard fault in the fuel system, emissions control etc etc. Either disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so or take it to a shop to get the code read..that will tell you what part is malfunctioning. There is no other way to shut it off because the light is controlled by the ECM.

I have taken it to the shop but the computer says there are no codes stored then the light goes out but a few days later it comes back on I take it to the shop and it is the same responce No Codes Stored and the light goes out

On my 1998 Cherokee, there are 2 fuse boxes (actually, one is for relays). yours should be the same. Look on the passenger front side kick panel. there should be a removeable cover that hides the fuse panel. Under the hood on the passenger side there is a relay panel. Look for a square plastic box about 6-8 inches long and 4 inches wide.

Wiring Diagrams

Ford Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis 1989-1998

from AutoZone DIY

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/3d/a8/0900823d80173da8/repairInfoPages.htm

Extra-Sensory-Perception ( unless you are talking about the car type, in which case I have absolutely no idea)

There is a switch located on your brake pedal arm that turns on and off your brake lights as you brake. The switch is either defective or needs adjusting. The switch is nothing more than a button that is pressed when you release your brake pedal. If you follow your brake pedal arm upwards, you'll find a small plastic mechanism with two wires coming from them (the switch) and you can adjust it by turning a round nut to bring the switch closer or farther away from the arm of your brake pedal. If your button of your switch is not touching the arm your lights will remain on. The arm is suppose to press the button when you release the brake. If however your arm is pressing the button, check to make sure the two wires are not touching in any way. If all looks find and your lights are still on, replace the switch by unscrewing the nut of the switch all the way off and the switch will come down far enough for you to unplug the wires. Installation will be the reverse. Hope this helps.

If these decks are the same i have the xdvd8183, you could try this. Insert a DVD wait until you hear the sound, press stop twice on the remote then enter 26604 then ENTER and it should work. If not they have changed it, by the way you have to ground the park brake wire to a ground even on the stereo ground harness. Hopes this helps anybody

Alternators, HVAC blower motors, power windows, EGR valves (if not vacuum operated) and well I'll think of more

This is something that can really only be done with a lot of auto-electrical work. The immobilizer is incorporated in the BCM (Body Control Module) which basically controls the car's electrics. It can't really be bypassed unless you really know what you're doing and have a lot of time and/or money to spend on it.

I have a 79 ford chatou 12 seater van. everything works the bulbs are good but the brake lights wont turn on when I step on the pedal. whats up? if its my brake switch should I change it out? or can it be fixed also which fuse is my brake lights? wouldn't the lights all be on one fuse?

I have a 79 ford chatou 12 seater van. everything works the bulbs are good but the brake lights wont turn on when I step on the pedal. whats up? if its my brake switch should I change it out? or can it be fixed also which fuse is my brake lights? wouldn't the lights all be on one fuse?