Car Stalling Problems

There can be many reasons a car stalls from poor fuel feed to lack of spark. By far, the main reason is poor driving technique.

it probably needs an O2 sensor they range from about 40-90 dollars

old myth, bad for alternator, dont do this..

sounds like a crankshaft positioning sensor. must be at low speeds and stop signs?

If your brava's idle is going hunting the ICV could need cleaned or replaced. It could however be indicative of more serious problems that I'm not confident enough to discuss. Have you tried resetting the ECU?Simply disconnect the battery overnight, then reconnect in the morning. drive normally for 100 miles after doing so as the ECu will be learning how you drive. If you boot it everywhere, it'll expect that all the time, and not perform great when you potter about slowly. the opposite applies if you drive in a 'grand-dad' fashio (sorry all the granddaddies out there! you know you rock really)

Buzzwww.fiatboo.co.UK (site for all bravo brava and marea related matters)

One of the reasons it shuts down is because of moisture in the distributor cap. I too had a Honda civic and it did the same thing . Mechanics looked at it and neither of the 2 that I took the car to had an exact answer but moisture being the case.

If it is a moisture problem, to prevent it from happening again, take off your cap, and rub a thin film of vaseline around the edge, then replace the cap. don't glob it on, you just want a protective film around the sealing surface.

There could be a few reasons why your truck would stall like that. 1)Check your spark plugs and wires 2)Your mass air flow sensor may be dirty or going out and needs to be replaced 3)Check your butterfly valve and your intake manifold, they could be dirty or have alot of build ups. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with your spark plugs.

the idle solinoid may need changing, or its power source is not plugged in or working. If the solinoid is not powered the carby wont know where to idle, it will drive fine but wont idle when you pull up at lights ect.

Assuming that the battery is good, it's either the TPS(throttle positioning sensor)dirty so clean it up.It could also be the IAC valve, or EGR valve being dirty. But start with the TPS.

If memory serves, it should be under the hood either near the right hand side of the firewall, but I might be wrong and it's under the hood near the left fender close to the battery. It should have a black plastic cover which may be labeled 'EEC-TEST'. Not that you cannot use a generic OBDII scan tool, you will need one of the following: NGS scan tool, aftermarket scan tool with US Domestic support, or a multimeter and jumper wire. The multimeter and jumper wire will retrieve codes but not read the data stream as a scan tool will.

This is usually caused by a faulty (sticking) VCC (also called TCC) lockup solenoid. This is also called a torque converter solenoid or a lockup solenoid. To verify, unplug the four-wire connector facing forward at the top driver's side of the transaxle and find that it doesn't stall, but fuel economy is now very bad. Reconnect the connector at time of repair or before long highway trip.

Get an OE replacement solenoid and some trans fluid (Dexron). A new side cover gasket will also be needed. It takes about 30 minutes to replace the solenoid. If an OE solenoid is unavailable, an aftermarket (semi-universal) part may be used and it may be necessary to cut or grind this replacement part to fit your car.

If it's hesitant/stalling on acceleration and stalling on slow down or stops, then could possibly be the fuel filter.

if it tends to sputter and have no power i would suggest the fuel pump. it it is only after the car has warmed up, or a while after you start driving it might be the ignition module.

I bought a used jeep Cherokee that would stall out if you did not keep it revved up.

The night before my wife's first day at a new job I found the problem on my dining room table.

I thought that it was a carburetor problem, so I bought a carburetor rebuild kit for it.

That night while I was following the directions on how to replace needle valves and gaskets, I realized that the carb had two halves to it, one bolted on top of the other.

The curious thing was that someone had tapped threads into both halves and since both were threaded they could never really pull completely together and tighten down, thus not making a good seal and allowing too much air to be sucked into it.

With too much air entering the carb, the amount of gas had to be increased to keep the mixture ratio correct to keep running.

So maybe your mixture ratio is too lean and needs more gas or less air.

no the primary one is the one closest to the engine

Ignition module is bad I had a similar problem on a Pontiac grand am- it was the torque inverter. It would idle fine, run in nuetral, but as soon as it was put into gear it stalled with a thump.

My girlfriends 97 was doing the same thing....it turned out to be the ignition switch.It started to stall intermittently (once every couple days)then yesterday it would not run at all unless you held the key in start position. Take a test drive and giggle the key to see if it shuts of.

If you have a power brake booster then there will be a vaccum line that runs to the brake booster on the firewall from the carburator. Check the booster for holes and broken fittings or buy a new booster. if no brake booster then brakes shouldn't affect vaccum

most fast-parts stores carry a vinyl repair kit, probably even wall-mart.

a weak battery, weak alternator , just a low idel speed or bad ground

I have a similar thing in my 2004 Renault megane it doesnt always happen but sometimes it will shudder if sat in traffic.... I think it is something to do with the timing! but not sure

http//www.beaucroft.co.uk

dirty throttle body

bad IAC

sticking (worn or dirty) EGR valve

something else

It sounds like it is starving for fuel due to a problem with the carburetor. Ask a guy at an automotive parts supply. A rebuilt carburetor will probably fix it.

The EGR Valve is located in the engine compartment on the Ford Focus. The EGR Valve is set almost dead center into the top of the motor. The EGR Valve looks like a small carburetor with caps on the top and sides.

on the ford ranger pickup truck, it is under the passenger side dash