Car Stalling Problems

open hood you should see filter on left side of engine(passenger side) near oil filter,it is black in color,. disconnect battery and make sure ground to battery cant flip back and spark to neg post on battery. there is a clamp with one bolt hold the fuel filter in position,BUT before you undo clamp carefully squeeze the 2 fuel line connectors BY HAND (do not use pliers) and remove hoses,be ready for some fuel spillage ,then undo clamp and slide out old filter,when putting in new one it has an arrow on it ,it should point toward the engine (not physically)but fuel flow wise. then istall bolt snap back on both hoses and reinstall neg, battery cable.crank engine and check for leaks.

if it drives normal except when you let off the gas the rpm jumps then it is a map sensor

Assuming V8 gasoline engine, it should be bolted onto the intake manifold.

Bad fuel pump will cause the engine to stall or not start at all. A bad automatic transmission will cause the vehicle to jerk and not run smoothly.

into the hood

fgjhgjfv

check the brake booster vacumme hose,its the hose than runs from the intake to the brake booster. if its leaking air the car stall when you hit the brakes or has no power

I have this same Jeep. When I first got it it ran like crap. It used like a half a tank to go like 20 miles. I changed the Oxygen sensor, plugs, wires, and rotor\cap. It took care of this problem. I also ran a couple tanks of injector cleaner through it and this also helped. This helped in my case. If the o2 sensor is bad it will cause bad fuel mileage and possibly idle problems. Bc the computer adjusts the fuel air mixture by what the o2 sensor reads.

You have a coil not cap and rotor. The idle control valve is inside or on the side of the throttle body. Clean it out, lube linkage, seafoam it, O2 sensors are expensive and the code is set off by other issues such as carbon build up, idle control valve not clean, the computer thinking the air is rich and dumping more fuel.

A tune-up is needed or your fuel filter needs to be changed.

The answer is : There is a loose wire by the computer harness that causes a lost communication.

Bank 2 is the drivers side of your 4.2 liter V6 engine in a 1998 Ford F-150

Yes, that is usually where the rpm signal comes from.

Contaminated fuel could cause a misfire.

Could be,

a dirty fuel filter,

a failing fuel pump,

a plugged/damaged catalytic converter,

I means you need to get a new car those are outdated

The first indication of a failed oxygen (O2) sensor are warning lights to check or service the engine. A check engine light or saved problem code such as O2 problem can cause the vehicle to fail inspections. O2 sensors are an emissions component. The vehicle may also lose performance, fuel economy, and may damage other components.

on fuel rail under vehicle, drivers side, half way back

It is in the fuel Tank,it is complete assembly with motor and sender unit,for replacement tank has to be removed from bottom and costs about 9000 for original 4000 for duplicate.

Generally speaking when a car stalls out going uphill, a few things come to a mechanical mind.

1. Going uphill produces a strain on the engine and drive components, if you have the old points and coil type vehicle one could suspect a faulty ignition coil as the culprit.

2. A vehicle on an incline may be low on fuel and thus stalls on a hill because it is starving for fuel on this incline.

3. A faulty float inside the float bowl of your carburetor may be the problem.

have mechanic search for a GOVERNOR control switch. this device is an installed component that shuts down the engine at a specified cut-off limit, thus governing your speed check your catalytic converter. i had this problem and found out that every time i would step on it, a broken piece of it would blow up blocking the exhaust flow and when letting off the gas, would fall back down

The light comes on when the car stalls because the engine is not running and the pump therefore is not pumping. The pressure will always be 0 when the engine stalls and the light is directly related to pressure. This is normal, you have no problem, other than the engine stalling.

YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE TORQUE CONVERTER SOLENIOD. THE PART IS UNDER 50 DOLLARS AND ITS LOCATED RIGHT BEHIND THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT TIRE ITS A SMALL RECTANGULAR COVER THAT IS MOUNTED SIDEWAYS . THE A.C. LINES MIGHT BE IN THE WAY ,YOU CAN SLIGHTLY PULL THEM BACK TO PULL THE COVER OUT ,THAT IS SECURED BY SEVERAL SCREWS AND IT LOOKS LIKE A LITTLE TOY MOTOR THAT YOU FIND ON TOY CARS ,THE ONE THAT HAD TWO WIRES CONECTED TO A SMALL MOTOR. IT LOOKS IMPOSSIBLE TO DO BUT ITS A PIECE OF CAKE

A vacuum leak at the EGR valve or at the base of the carb, also check your PCV. Try this; Take a can of wd 40 and slowly spray it around the areas that are suspected . If the idle improves for a moment this is probably where the problem is. Check around the carb base as some Fords of this vintage had their share of problems with leaks.

It's possible your silent alarm has been triggered, causing the vehicle to run for a few seconds then die off...try locking then unlocking the doors, if all else fails disconnect the ground on the battery for 15-30 min, that may allow the computer to reset itself.

Did you run out of gas...? You may have a battery relay problem as well. If your engine wasnt turnign properly to charge the batter, or more likely if the charging cables werent connected properly.