Check Engine Light

I had the exact same problem on my 1996 civic hatch 1.6 liter 4cyl. It was a simple fix once I found the problem. If you look under the intake manifold at the rear of the engine there is a pack of wires. This pack rubs on the bottom of the intake and crates a short which screws up the speedo, sets of the check engine light and gives a trouble code (if you know how to read the check engine flashes) that there is a problem with the O2 sensor, and somtimes the headlights would surge. Just crawl under the car when it is up on stands and gently turn over the pack of wires under the intake to expose the bare wire or wires. Tape them up and away you go. My car had 230,000 km when this problem occured. It was a royal pain to find but a cheap easy fix.

Look and listen for a vacumn leak under the hood.

drop serp belt come up through sub frame one bolt in the back and you are done

if it is the 5.7 it should be on the left side of the upper intake. about 3 inches tall and about 2 in diameter. it will have an electrical connector and plastic tube connected to it.

you have a looose connection in dash..behind cluster..

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. You can also disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, then reconnect it. The codes will clear, however if there is a problem in your system, the light will come on again after about 50 miles.

This engine code can be triggered by any one of the following:

1.) The catalyst in the catalytic converter is cracked, clogged, or otherwise damaged.

2.) The secondary O2 sensor is malfunctioning.

3.) There is an exhaust leak.

4.) The computer unit is faulty.

you can't use the autozone OBD tool unless its a 1996 or later. I was told to find a dealer.

EDIT.....Not true....you can pull the codes off of that vehicle by yourself using a paperclip & and counting the number of flashes that your "Check Engine" light gives off.

Simply search any "Ford Truck", "Ford" or "Ford Engine" forums to get a list of the fault codes that correspond to the number of flashes that you count while performing this.

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

It's welded in like a muffler. Any muffler shop can do it for you.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem - usually in the emission control system,

If you mean ... why the crank won't turn when the key is on and the acc.'s will turn, Well sounds like crank shaft is locked up. When the crank bearings try to pile up on each other and jam the crankshaft in it's final resting place, till rebuild.

most times it is a bad coil pack there are three ignition coils mounted on top of the ignition module. one coil supplys 2 cylinders with spark. original coils have the cylinder number stamped on the coil so you know what coil feeds #y cylinder. 80 percent its a coil failure 20 percent the module fail and signal is interrupted to coil.if you don't want to just change coil.without proof,you can switc coil with another remember to mark the number of the cylinders on the ignition wires before you switch coils as the coils have a firing order that must be followed. when you switch coils and test drive check the coses for misfire again if the miss moves to a different cylinder number the coil is bad. if the number is still four with the coils switched,the ignition module if probably bad, these coils usually tes good when you ohm test them but these coils usually break down under engine load and heat,your coil can pass a ohm test but still be bad. there cheap enough just put new #4 coil in it. p.s you need a 5.5 millimeter socket to remove coils

In US it says "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" in Canada it looks like an engine.

Use a Mercedes specific or OBDII generic scan tool.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

Not usually....No. Take it in to AutoZone and have them check the codes for you.

You use a scan tool after repairing the cause of the code that turned the light on.

On my 94 MPV the Mitchell on demand repair manual says to remove the panel in the dash where your display is, their is a small screw, take screw out of the place it is and put it in the other place provided. I haven't done this yet but my light stays on also, they come on automatically at 80,000 miles. Hope that helps. Disconnecting the battery won't reset it.

A friend of mine told me to disconnect the battery. Not 100% sure, just what i was told.

u need to know what codes its reading go to auto zone and have it read for free

First you need to repair the problem or the light will just come back on. The charge varies greatly from place to place. Try disconnecting the battery for 1 hour which works on some vehicles.

code PO442 Evap sys leak There could bethe gas cap or a crack in the plastic of your charcoal canister. A hose could be pulled off, or broken, or split, or removed by a mechanic and never put back on. The pressure sender could be broken and never signalling the ECU. The solenoid could be broken and never performing the EVAP purge. Any of the wires to the solenoid or the sensor could be broken, shorted, or unhooked. they make a smoke tester to find small leaks in evap system most dealers have them cost about$100 to diag hope this helps

Emmissions problem. HAVE THE ENGINE CHECKED!

Probably the number two ignition coil. Also check the spark plug and the wiring to the coil.

The procedure is different with different manufacturers and models.