Check Engine Light

If you are referring to the Check Engine light, then it is on because the ECU has detected a problem with the emissions system. Have the ECU scanned to retrieve the code that has been set. This code will tell you what part or system is being effected. Not necessarily the defective part.

very possibly it is the glow plug relay, try dissconecting the relay for a day or two and see if the battery still goes flat, another test is to connect a multimeter or 12 volt test lamp to one of the glow plug terminals, if it stays lit all the time it is the relay if it goes out after about 30 seconds of turning the ignition on the relay would seem to be ok very possibly it is the glow plug relay, try dissconecting the relay for a day or two and see if the battery still goes flat, another test is to connect a multimeter or 12 volt test lamp to one of the glow plug terminals, if it stays lit all the time it is the relay if it goes out after about 30 seconds of turning the ignition on the relay would seem to be ok

Remove one of the battery post cabes from the battery for 5 munutes. Now learn how to retrain the computer because it is reset and upset also at this time.

Bear in mind too, that if you use the battery disconnecting method, you might lock up your radio. If you don't have it's security code, it can be a pain to get it working again.

To reset the check Engine light, Take off the battery connections overnight. Connect them in the morning and the light should be reset. This was answered on another question. Also ensure that the gas cap is on tight, That can also cause the "check engine light to come on, You should hear 5-6 clicks when you tighten the gas cap. .

Recently had the same problem, thanks to my wife. Took it to CTC and was told to check the gas cap and tighten it, then run the car for a few days. This was enough to finally have it go out...took about a day and a half to rebuild pressure.

unplug the battery for 30 seconds.

Put the converter back on. Its a federal crime to remove it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No, no, no... you don't have to put it back on. They make a bypass for it that you can buy off of eBay and if you really just want the "super-easy-fix", take out the bulb.

A catalytic converter is designed to burn any raw fuel or other hydrocarbons that get past the combustion chamber. If it's large enough to handle the exhaust, it's ok to use an aftermarket converter. If you have a single exhaust system, you only have one converter. If it's a TRUE dual exhaust, you'll have 2.

Engine code P0507 mean High idle speed. Check out the the idle speed control motor(ISC). LOCATED near the throttle body.

Disconnect the positive cable on the battery and reconnect it that should reset it. If there is a true problem it will come back on. or go to an advance or autozone and they will erase the code for you free.

Hi. I found this on another page. Hope it helps Peter P1123 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold P1125 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold

At least one "dead" cylinder (no spark). If you drive it like this, the light will start to flash, after you have done irreversible damage to your catalytic converter.

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

I had the exact same problem on my 1996 civic hatch 1.6 liter 4cyl. It was a simple fix once I found the problem. If you look under the intake manifold at the rear of the engine there is a pack of wires. This pack rubs on the bottom of the intake and crates a short which screws up the speedo, sets of the check engine light and gives a trouble code (if you know how to read the check engine flashes) that there is a problem with the O2 sensor, and somtimes the headlights would surge. Just crawl under the car when it is up on stands and gently turn over the pack of wires under the intake to expose the bare wire or wires. Tape them up and away you go. My car had 230,000 km when this problem occured. It was a royal pain to find but a cheap easy fix.

Look and listen for a vacumn leak under the hood.

drop serp belt come up through sub frame one bolt in the back and you are done

if it is the 5.7 it should be on the left side of the upper intake. about 3 inches tall and about 2 in diameter. it will have an electrical connector and plastic tube connected to it.

you have a looose connection in dash..behind cluster..

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. You can also disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, then reconnect it. The codes will clear, however if there is a problem in your system, the light will come on again after about 50 miles.

This engine code can be triggered by any one of the following:

1.) The catalyst in the catalytic converter is cracked, clogged, or otherwise damaged.

2.) The secondary O2 sensor is malfunctioning.

3.) There is an exhaust leak.

4.) The computer unit is faulty.

you can't use the autozone OBD tool unless its a 1996 or later. I was told to find a dealer.

EDIT.....Not true....you can pull the codes off of that vehicle by yourself using a paperclip & and counting the number of flashes that your "Check Engine" light gives off.

Simply search any "Ford Truck", "Ford" or "Ford Engine" forums to get a list of the fault codes that correspond to the number of flashes that you count while performing this.

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

It's welded in like a muffler. Any muffler shop can do it for you.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem - usually in the emission control system,