Chevy Tracker

Under the dash left of steering wheel

Just behind black bar over engine, you should see a yellow ring. pull up, it's the dipstick

5 quarts.

Not sure what the question is. What, Where etc...

mine is located above the gas tank on the passenger side its black and it just pops right off and you can pop the new one right on simple. but it also depends on if you have 4x4 and a v6 or not, i do have those. but check there anyways, it looks like a little can.

it is behind the drivers side speaker u have to remove the speaker, und bolts on ecm and lift it out. then you put in the new one a plug it in. no programming is required.

on the roght side below the manifold

Definitely check for recalls. I had an idle problem on an 86 Olds Calais that was so bad I had to brake-torque to keep from stalling in any kind of bad traffic. After I owned the car for about 7yrs (and after about 6 useless trips to the dealer who 'couldn't get it to fail'), they FINALLY issued a recall. I do not remember the part and am not even sure I bothered to take it in at that point since I sold it shortly after but with your auto being 1998, if there was one issued, you should be able to find it. Just do a search.

The vacuum actuator is either in the fender or under the battery. The actually diff actuator is on the back/bottom of the front diff. Mine (2000 blazer) is under the battery. It sucks to get to.

If you check the actuator and it doesn't move at all, check the vacuum, if it's not getting vacuum, check the switch on the top driver's side of the transfer case. It sends vacuum to the actuator. It has three vacuum hoses coming off of it. It costs fifteen dollars at autozone and usually greatly improves the performance of the acuator.

Yes, the 1989 - 1998 Trackers are the same ANSWER: The above answer is only partially right. Yes the '94 console will fit in an '92 Tracker. Only '89 through '95 Trackers are the same. '96 through '98 are the different then previous years.

Two reasons why the engine would quit running after a few minutes: it dies from flooding or it dies from starvation. Starvation may be due to a clogged fuel filter or the needle valve is too much to the closed position. Flooding may be due to the needle valve being too much in the open position or the float being stuck in the open position.

amazon.com

I'm having the same problem. It only happens when vehicle is moving, so I suspect a bad ground.

you go to a liscenced garage, where they are qualified to do repairs on safety related components... period...

with a scan tool, you can go to your local auto shop and they should scan the cars pcm for less than $30.00. or you can go to your local auto-zone and they will read it for free, but mind you it will not be that accurate and they can only read codes they cant clear them.

Works the same on all Fords. Insert your key in the ignition, cycle the ignition on and off 8 times (don't start vehicle, just goto the 'ON' position with the key). The power locks will cycle one time. Press the lock button on all the fobs you want to work with the vehicle (Up to 4 or 6 max per vehicle, I I don't remember what the limit is). I believe you have about 1 minute to press the button on each fob. Only the fobs that were programed in the last cycle will work, in otherwords, do ALL of the fobs or the ones that used to work will not anymore!

Most likely cause is that the rev limiter has cut in.

The brake pads only cost $12 and they are very easy to install, so the minute you hear a strange noise when you apply the brakes, you should change them to prevent damage to your rotors.

You can also check the wear on your break pads to see how much padding is left. If they look thin, then change them.

There are more signs to a brake problem. If you feel your brake pedal kinda go up and down (pulsating) your rotors need to be replaced. Soft or spongy brake pedal again could be brake pads to thin or air in the brakes, etc. While braking your car is being pulled to the left or right this is a sign of one or more calipers starting to seize.

for people who were not born in barns you may know this answer, those of you who were born in barns, yes the wires will short out when they are sitting on the engine block or even possibly by fair chance in hell the heater hoses rubbed them....but i highly doubt that would cause the fuse to blow. you may need to have an expert check your wiring system before you get in your car and start driving it around, if the fuel injection system blew then you may have a fairly good reason NOT to turn on the engine. rewiring may be what is needed.

The minimum speed for airbags to deploy in a 1999 Nissan Maxima is generally around 14 to 20 mph (22 to 32 km/h) during a collision. Deployment depends on the severity of the impact and the type of collision, such as frontal or side impacts. The vehicle's sensors assess the force of the crash to determine if airbag deployment is necessary for occupant safety.

It could need new rotars or a wheel bearing It could need new rotars or a wheel bearing

If it has AC assist and the compressor is shot, cut the belt or disconnect the defrost from the compressor.

you probably need to change cabin filter, I had same problem on another car, so that is my best bet

From personal experience:

89-98 Tracker/Sidekick -- LT235x75R15 on Suzuki Samurai rims. If you don't use Samurai rims, they will rub the frame just a wee bit when the wheel is cranked to full lock --- but should still be acceptable. Also note -- any other tire that measures in the neighbourhood of 29 inches tall by 8.5-ish inches wide should also work (225x70R16, probably even a 215x85R15, etc).

For 99-04 Trackers -- LT235x75R15's (same as above) will rub just slightly on the frame with the factory 15x5.5 rims. If you can lay hands on some 15x6's with 4-ish inches of backspace, that will cure the frame rub. If I had it to do all over again, I'd go 215x85R16's since 16 inch rims that will fit over the calipers are much easier to find and the narrower tire is more forgiving of backspace issues -- but the 235x75R15's I have on there (15x6 winter rims with 4.25 inches of backspace) are working fine and do not rub.

So, in summary -- without a lift kit and custom backspacing on the rims -- a 29 inch tall by 9 inch wide tire is about the max you can go unless you don't mind tire rub.