Dodge Colt

plug and play swap, engine mounts works and so will the tranny. must change ecu and wiring harness with the swap, which will require removing the dashboard.(that's the hardest part) ..for more info on that swap go to this link www.4g61t.org -freebsdkid

these cars are pretty good for bad crank sensors. car runs fine until hot then dies. restarts 15-20 mins later

1432

Automatic, it is the little white ball on the front of the transmission.

Manual, it does not have a stick. The fluid is set to the bottom of the fill hole.

first jack the chaulk the back wheels, then jack up the front end and place it on jack stands, next remove the bolts from the transmission pan and drain the tranny fluid, then proceed to remove the wheel on the side that needs relacing, separate the ball joint and pull the axel shaft out of the transmission, replace eith new axel shaft and reverse the directions to put it back together, don't forget to top up the transmission with fluid...

To be totally honest, if you do not know how to change spark plugs, you should consider finding a friend to help you, since there is more to it than just "replacing" them. When you open the hood, right in front of you will be the spark plug wires, coming from the engine. The black wires, four of them, snap onto the spark plugs. Make sure you have four new spark plugs, a spark plug gapping tool and a spark plug socket (5/8" deep well socket with a rubber grommet inside.) Pull one spark plug at a time (I usually start from the left and work to the right.) You pull the spark plug "boot" (grip as low on the "boot" as you can when pulling up on it- you may want to purchase a plug wire boot puller for about $12.) Then place the socket onto the spark plug (into the cylinder) and ratchet it loose. Before placing the new plug in it's place, make sure you "gap" the plug to .39mm (use a gapping tool - if you gap it too much, the engine will run choppy; too little gap you will burn up the plug.) Follow these steps for each plug, doing them one at a time. Easy task really. Also, spend the $25 to buy a Chilton repair manual. It will give you pictures and step by step instructions for pretty much any repair. It also gives specifications for fluid volumes, types of fluids, spark plug gap, etc. Well worth every penny the $25. Best of luck to you!

Remove the rotor. Knock the remaining stub out with a hammer and punch. Go to a parts store and buy a new stud/w nut. Place the new stud into the hub, and draw it down tight with the nut, installed temporarily backwards.

It is located behind the engine right above the manifold to the left. You can change it going through the top of the hood. Remember to use a line wrench on your gas line to disconnect it. That is on a 93 colt 1.8 liter engine. But it might be the same on all 93 models.

First, remove the door handle, it has 2 screws one in each side. After that, between the door panel and the window handle there is a small rubber ring, push it towards the panel until you can see a small lock in the shape of a U, with a flat screwdriver, take the lock out and the window handle comes off. With care, start locating the small plastic "nails" with which the door panel attaches itself to the metal. Try pulling the nails evenly as they tear apart or damage the panel. After all the panel is loose, pull it upwards to release the little thing that licks the window and then out, there you go, panel out.

The timing marks on a 93 Dodge Colt with a 1.5 liter engine are located on the timing chain and the cam sprocket. They must line up with each other to ensure proper initial timing.

I have a 93 Dodge Colt GL with the 1.8L engine and automatic transmission. The fuel pump relay is located behind the radio in the center console.

It is a non-interferance engine. However it has 2 belts that should be replaced at the same time. It has a Camshaft Belt and a Balance Shaft Belt. Replace them both every 60,000 miles.

1342

If it is like the 89 Colt 1.5 liter engine, it is bolted into the transmission bell behind the engine, below the intake manifold, on the left side. It is really hard to see, and harder to work on. However, I was able to change my solenoid by removing the car battery and air cleaner and intake hose so that I had easy access to the left side of the engine. Then I removed the distributor cap so I could squeeze my right arm behind the engine to unscrew the wires to the solenoid.

this question should be under dodge automobiles

i own a 88 dodge colt 1.5L 4 speed 2 bbL inorder to change the rotors u must #1 take the black caps off the wheels, remove the pin from the axle nut then remove the nut i find doing one side at a time helps do this quickly loosen the lug nuts jack the car up and remove the tire. #2 after removing the tire remove the brake line braket,then mark the shock so it can replaced as it was taken out remove the 2 shock nuts remember the way u took em out after that turn the steering wheel enough so u can slip the axle out from the hub do not remove the tie rod or lower ball joint from the hub unless u plain on buying new ones #3 The hub is a pressed in type of bearing why they made it complicated? i don't know but in the manual it says u need some speacial tools to remove the hub and press the hub back in the bearing race but in the other hand i dint use any speacial tools i used a large socket that fitted on the back of the hub where the axles end sits againts the hub and tapped lightly with a big hammer to remove the hub from the inner race becarefull or eles u bust the dust seal and or bearing... after u have removed it u can remove the 4 bolts/nuts on the rotor to the hub and replace it make sure u check the inner bearing on the hub and make sure its ok and damage free and repack with grease if the bearing is damaged or needs to be change u have to take it to get pressed out from the hub and repressed in as far as the inner race u can use a brass punch to tap it out from the back be carefull not to damage the dust seal #4 after repacking with grease and making sure the bolts/nuts are tight u can now reasemble hub to its braket be for warned that this is my way of doing it cause its hard to obtain the correct tools to do this job unless u have the cash to speacial order them...which i doubt cause its a old car and a pain in the @SS.place the hub into the inner race take the axle hub and slide it through the hub and carfully tighten the axle nut and make sure that the hub pressed striaght into its braket/inner race bearing reasemble the shock bolts/nuts make sure your marks line up and brake line braket after u reasembled everything placed the tire back on and lower the car down retighten the axle nuts again make sure it is tight put a new pin back in and u just finshed changing the rotor's congrads now do the same thing but for the other side ...........your welcome and enjoy i have a 88 colt and my last engine the jet valve broke into the engine and messed the head and piston and cylinder walls not really bad but it ran like s#hi#t so i disasembled the engine and removed it and got a used engine drove like 3 hours aways from my house and put it in the trunk of another car lol ehh it was fun but make sure when your all done u pump the brakes

the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy

Directly under the radio above the center console. Big gold relay on the passenger side

Looking into the motor #1 is on your left.firing order is 1 3 4 2 from left to right.

I got a 92 colt and I believe # 1 is on the opposite side. The firing order 1 3 4 2 is correct.

I have a different . I'm looking at the Chilton's (1971-1989 Colt) and it has a diagram indicating that for all engines of that year the #1 cylinder is nearest the front of the engine (the front of the engine is not the side of the engine near the front of the car, but it is the side of the engine with the timing belt). If this is true, than as you stand in front of the car looking at the engine, #1 is farthest right. The order from left to right is 4-3-2-1 (this is the same as saying that the order from front (the timing belt side of engine) to back is 1-2-3-4. The firing order for all engines of that year is 1-3-4-2. In fact, according to Chilton's, all engines all years have the cylinders in the same order (from front of engine to back 1-2-3-4) and the firing order is always 1-3-4-2.

There is a dot on the timeing gear that lines up with an arrow on the block 2 the upper right 4 the crank. A dot on the cam sprocket that lines up with a line on the cover just behind it

unscrew the distributor pull it out about half way with the distributor cap off and turn the rotor clock wise to disired position

Engine control module, or electronic control module

it is in the black box just left of the sparkplugs just behind the battery, it has 3 clips that have to be unsnapped and the cover comes off sideways towards the engin