Dodge Durango

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If the car has over 100,000 miles, ask what is the additional cost to re-tension the timing chain (the timing chain stretches over time).

Lift the lower control arm up with a jack and put a jack stand under it. remove the cotter pin and nut from the lower ball joint. Jack up the vehiclel high enough to put a jack stand under the fram instead of the lower control arm. Jack the vehicke high enough to remove the stand under the lower control arm. Using a ball joint seperator tool, separate the ball joint assembly from the lower control arm.

The lower has a (mount) lip on it keeping it in. You will have to grind the rivets holding it on in order for it to fall out. The new lower ball will come with a mount

that will hold it place. replace all the parts by bolting on the new mount withthe included bolts and nuts,and you have it done saving you $400.

1) it helps if the gas tank is empty or near empty before you start (Gas is heavy - roughly 8 lbs per gallon, the fumes travel far and fast and can ignite with the smallest spark). Siphon all you can get out of the tank before begining.

2) remove gas cap (if you have not already done this as it will release any built up pressure in your gas tank).

3) release pressure from fuel lines (fairly high pressure)

a)pull fuel pump relay from underhood fuse box (ignition switch off)

b)start car and let it idle until it runs out of gas and quits

c)replace fuel pump relay (ignition switch off)

4) remove negative battery cable (sparks and gas are not happy together)

5 you may have to jack vehicle up to get access to gas tank underneath (use proper jack stands, never never trust a jack)

6) disconnect filler hose & vent hose from gas tank (usually simple hose clamps) they should be at the back of the tank

7) place jack or blocks under tank as you are about to remove the straps that hold gas tank in place - but you must initially let tank down only enough to disconnect fuel line, vent line and electrical connector. There will not be enough slack in these lines and wires to drop the tank to the ground and then disconnect them so be prepared to completely control the weight of the tank. This is another reason to empty the tank.

8) lower gas tank to the ground and move it away from the vehicle

9) before removing metal retaining ring from fuel pump, notice the orientation of the gas pump. The package is round. If the new pump is not install in exactly the same position your fuel guage float may not work properly. I would suggest making a mark on the old fuel pump and on the tank that line up prior to removing original pump. Then if your memory fails, you can look at the old pump and the tank and see exactly where it should go.

10) remove the metal retaining ring by turning it to release the plastic tabs that are all around the fuel pump. There should also be a locking tab that may have to be pulled back or pryed away from the metal ring before it can be turned. You may have to take a wooden dowel or brass bar and a hammer and gently tap the ring to move it while someone else holds the locking tab back. Never use anything metal to tap on the metal ring as it can create sparks.

11) after ring is removed, gently remove the fuel pump. You will likely have to tilt the unit slightly to get it out of the tank as the fuel float will be attached. DO NOT DAMAGE THE FLOAT as I do not think the new pump will come with one and it will have to be reused. DO NOT DROP the Rubber Gasket in the tank - seems like common sense until you drop one in and spend the next 15 minutes fishing it out.

12) install the new pump by doing everything above in reverse.

Bleeding

CAUTIONThe fluid level should be checked with engine off to prevent injury from moving components.

WARNINGUse MOPAR® Power Steering Fluid (2001) or MOPAR® ATF+4 (2002 and later) is to be used in the power steering system. No other power steering or automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the system. Damage may result to the power steering pump and system if any other fluid is used. Do not overfill.

1. Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level. The dipstick should indicate COLD when the fluid is at normal temperature (before engine has been operated).
2. Turn steering wheel all the way to the left
3. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
4. Raise the front wheels off the ground.
5. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 20 times with the engine OFF while checking the fluid level.

   NOTEVehicles with long return lines or oil coolers turn wheel 40 times.

6. Start the engine. With the engine idling maintain the fluid level.
7. Lower the front wheels and let the engine idle for two minutes.
8. Turn the steering wheel in both direction and verify power assist and quiet operation of the pump.
9. If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the procedure.

   WARNINGDo not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for an extended period. This may cause pump damage.

Removal & Installation

3.7L, 4.7L And 5.7L Engines

1. Drain and siphon the power steering fluid from the pump.
2. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
3. Remove the reservoir return hose at the reservoir.
4. Remove the pressure hose from the pump.
5. Remove the three pump mounting bolts through pulley access holes.
6. Remove the pump from the engine.

To install:

1. Align the pump with the mounting holes on the engine.
2. Install the three pump mounting bolts through the pulley access holes. Tighten the bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the pressure hose to the pump. Tighten the pressure line to 31 Nm (23 ft. lbs.).
4. Install reservoir return hose to the reservoir.
5. Install the serpentine drive belt.
6. Fill the power steering pump.

5.9L Engine

1. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
2. Clamp the fluid return hose and disconnect the hoses from the power steering pump. Cap the fittings.
3. Remove battery ground cable and bracket bolts.
4. Remove the pump assembly.
5. Remove the pump pulley. This will allow access to the pump attaching screws.
6. Remove the pump bracket bolts and remove the bracket.

To install:

1. Install the bracket on the pump and tighten bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the pump pulley.
3. Install pump assembly on the engine block and tighten the bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the battery ground wire and tighten nut to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
5. Connect the fluid hoses to the pump.
6. Install the serpentine drive belt.
7. Fill the reservoir with power steering fluid.

CAUTION: Some models are equipped with anti-theft-radio make sure you have the activation code before disconnecting battery

• Disconnect negative battery cable
• Drain cooling system if coolant is relatively new save it
• Remove the accessory drivebelt
• Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.Remove the water pump pulley bolts and then remove the pulley
• Remove the alternator.Note the position of the alternator bracket on the water pump it must be installed in the same position when installing the water pump.Remove the alternator bracket bolts they're also water pump bolts and then remove the other four bolts from the water pump
• Loosen the hose clamp and then disconnect the water pump coolant inlet pipe connection hose.Detach the coolant inlet pipes from the block and then disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the water pump mounting boss.Remove and discard the old o-ring
• Clean the bolt threads and the threaded holes in the engine to remove corrosion and sealant
• Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they're identical
• Remove all traces of old gasket material from the engine with a gasket scraper

It's clear that whoever entered this entry up to this point is able to cut and paste from a haynes manual however they certainly never performed this job in real life. What you see above is all quoted word for word from a haynes repair manual. They state "then remove the other four bolts from the water pump ". This is how I know they did not actually do this job because the haynes manual is in error. You cannot access two of those bolts without removing the timing cover. This is not optional! First the crank pulley must be pulled off. You may need special tools to do this but not a pulley puller or anything an impact gun and a decent compressor to power it. And unlike many crank pulley bolts this one is not reverse threaded, it comes off in the standard direction. A chain wrench or something around the pulley may be tried but save yourself the agony of realizing its virtually impossible and use an impact gun(not electric typically they don't have enough power). Once the pulley is off the rest of the timing cover bolts should be removed and then the timing cover providing access to the other 2 water pump bolts which are located underneath the timing cover. Also before you start this job it is a good idea to remove the power steering pump bracket bolts and move the power steering pump out of the way, being careful not to damage the lines in the process. You do not need to move it much but it will save you some agony trying to access the water pump and pulley from the top.

I agree, who ever wrote the very top portion Just copied the Haynes manual. Here is how it is done. Removing the Negative battery cable is optional. Loosen the power steering pump and remove the belt. Completely remove the power steering pump from it's brackets and swing it out of the way. Remove the power steering pump resevior and the radiator overflow resevior. Next loosen and remove the belt from the alternator. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the adjustment plate for the alternator to the water pump. Loosen the bolt that holds the bottom of the alternator and push the alternator out of the way. There is no reason to remove the alternator from the vehicle. Get a Chain Wrench which is available at most auto parts stores. I got mine from Harbor Freight. Wrap the Chain Wrench around the Harmonic balancer and make sure that it is against a solid point of the engine. Get a socket large enough to fit the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer to the crank shaft. Once you get the harmonic balancer off, get a floor jack and a block of wood and position the wood on the flange of the oil pan. Raise the jack to support the weight of the engine. DO NOT jack up the engine using the oil pan. If you do, damage WILL result from the weight of the engine. Once you have the engine supported remove the motor mount. Remove the top half of the timing belt

cover. Then the bottom half will be able to come off. Release the timing belt tensioner and remove the timing belt. AT THIS POINT DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE OR THE CAM SHAFTS. Put a white mark on the timing belt and the cam shaft pulley. Therefore the timing belt will be put back on in the exact position it was removed. Since the timing belt is off, inspect it for uneven wear or cracks. If the belt is worn or cracked, then I recommend it be replaced. Remove the Idler pully on the right that is used for the timing belt. At this point, the bolts for the water pump are accessible.