Electric Windows

The windows in my 95 JGC don't work either. This vehicle isn't my daily driver so I haven't fixed it yet but here are my thoughts and what I intend to do.

Since they've been slow and jerky for quite some time now I suspect that the track and the guides inside the door panels have gotten dirty, dry, or have some broken nylon kind of rollers etc. Of course the first thing I'll do is check the fuse box. The power windows are controlled by a 30 amp circuit breaker in the fuse box on the far right side of the dash, accessible only by opening the passenger door. Look for #26. If the circuit breaker is thrown you can reset it but this probably won't take care of the real issue. I would start with the drivers side door when looking for a worn out window channel set since that window is probably the one that has been used the most.

Removing the inner door trim panel is a big pain but it can be done. First you have to remove the inner door handle/armrest which is pretty straight forward (screws) and then with either the special tool or a putty knife you have to gently pry the panel off the metal frame. Expect the nylon clips to break due to their age so you'll have to buy some new replacements. Once you get the panel loose you'll need to unhook the wiring harness for the window and door lock controls on the inside of the door.

At this point you'll have to carefully peel the plastic wind/noise guard off the inside of the door. If you do it carefully you'll be able to put it back with some kind of sealant. If you rip it off you'll end up being sorry because the door will make all kinds of wind noise and there will be a draft that will make you crazy. With that done you can then inspect the window races and runners to determine what parts you need to replace and at that point, if you think you're going to keep the jeep, you might as well replace all of the nylon bushings and rollers. You'll also want to check with your parts dealer and get the proper lubncant.

Reverse the take apart steps and be happy because you only have three more doors to do.

I have 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a similar problem. i found that wires between the body and the door on the drivers side were all broken. I spliced the wires back together again and everything works fine.

It sounds lke the battery. Check the battery cables to make sure they are tightly attached to the battery. Check for debris that may need cleaning off.

Most African countries use coal powered plants to supply electricity. South Africa is the country that generates and consumes the most electricity on the continent of Africa and has a nuclear plant, along with using other energy sources such as wind, solar and water.

You have to take the door panel off by a few screws in the trim lift the panel up and pull out and it is a black cylinder

its right under the steering wheel and its also with the fuse box.

The James Bay Hydroelectric Project is a government hydroelectricity project that generates around 24,000 megawatts of electricity. It also takes up around 350,000km2 of Quebec's land. The building process consisted of three phases and only two of these three phases were completed. The third phase was put on hold and is still on hold till this day because of concerns on the ecological impact of the third phase of the project.

I have a 93 Jeep GC. You can put the window back on track but it will certainly come off again. You need a window regulator/actuator. Ive done a lot of research on the web and it seems that most jeeps are having the same issues with the windows. The part is pretty expensive. Someone told me you can use the rollers offf of a sliding screen door instead

The '96 Camry power locks and windows fuse is a type C 30-amp rectangular block, pink in frame color with a transparent face. The location is just nuts, if you ask me---took my 14-yr old son to find it. It is located to the right of the instrument panel fuse block, partially obscured by a heating/cooling duct. To get to it, open the tray at the driver's left knee, squeeze the sides to release them, and pull the tray out completetly. Next, remove the two trim panel screws that secure the black plastic piece in front of the fuse block. To the right of the block is a black connector on a white plastic cover. There are three type C fuses near this cover and the blue plastic piece behind it. One is above, two are together to its right. Number 34 (the one you want) is the upper one of the two to the right. Here's where I disappoint you---I didn't pull mine out. I was able to inspect it by compressing the sides of the plastic ductwork and peeking in with a flashlight (it was still good), but I don't have any idea of the easiest way to extract that fuse. It may be possible to drop out the whole fuse block panel from behind the dash, but I really don't know. Sorry I can't help further.

dissasemble the door by removing the door panel. You unbolt the window regulator and or window to reposition window or regulator to get it back on track. Most of the time something bends or breaks to cause a window to get off track.

If you can hear the power window motor "trying" to work, and you still can't get the window to roll up, the most likely cause is a bad window regulator. In some vehicles, the regulators are made from plastic and become brittle over time. I had the same problem with a 2002 jeep liberty and followed advice (see related links below for the reference) I found by googling on how the "repair/rig" the regulator to work again. As a worst case scenario, you may have to buy a replacement regulator. The good news is, it's not terribly difficult to replace, especially if your a do-it-yourself'er.

First remove the door panel with 5 screws - don't forget the one behind the door lever! With screws removed, carefully lift up and out - then unhook the door lever from the latching mechanism, and unplug the connectors for the windows and mirror and locks. Now that you have full access to the innards of the door, figure out what went wrong and fix it! That's all I got for now. Hopefully somebody can explain the details of the window mechanism including cables and stuff.

The wording of your questions presumes one of two things: either you are familiar with the debtor, or you have seen and perhaps talked with the repo agent who is trying to locate the vehicle.

If you are familiar with the debtor, it is possible you know who the lender is. Contact the lender with as much information as you can. Keep in mind that you will want to keep the location of the vehicle to yourself, and seek a locator's fee. This is a common practice in the industry. Many people short themselves by accepting $50 or less. Keep in mind that the lender is paying up to $1,000.00 for the repossession to be done and that all costs associated with the repossession are translated to the debtor as recovery fees. Personally, I would ask for $500 and let them negotiate me to no less than $300, with half up front.

If you have seen or spoken to the repo agent, let him know that you want a locator's fee, and that you will only negotiate with the lender. He can contact his office who can patch you into the lender or have the lender call you directly. Again, aim high, and let them negotiate you down a bit.

Of course, if you know the vehicle is being hidden, but do not know where it is, there is no point discussing it with anyone.

To give an average without having lived there or having some documented history of power usage would be almost impossible. Even though you specified all electric, it would depend on how you use your appliances and how often. I will say though, that in many climates in the U.S. the HVAC system is 50 percent or more of the electric bill. So a large part of the average would be how often your AC or heat is running. To answer this for yourself, you'd have to do some math, and guess how often you would be using your appliances. You are billed by kilowatt-hour, and that is using 1000 watts for one hour. Example: A 100 watt light bulb is on 8 hours a day at night. This uses 100 watts per hour for 8 hours, which is the same as 800 watts for one hour, or 0.8 kilowatt-hours. This light will cost you about 24 kWh per month, at your electricity rate (check with the company for rates). If you don't know your rate you can estimate at 7 cents per kWh until you find out the rate. TIP: To determine power usage of appliances, look at the nameplate for watts or amps. ( The nameplate is where the serial number is) To change amps to watts, multiply the amps by the voltage used (either 120 or 240).

They are a safety feature in the case of an energy surge - without the fuse damage could be dome to the appliance, with the fuse if their is a surge of electricity it burns out the fuse so can't travel all the way to the appliance damaging it.

Because it is a nonmetal

A hydro dam works by taking the energy of water flow and converting it into an electric voltage. The water is regulated through a series of water turbines. The water flows through the turbine, pushing the turbine blades causing a rotation to a shaft. The shaft is then attached to an electrical generator. Inside the electrical generator, magnets are rotated around wire coil inductors which cause a voltage.

----

The word 'hydro' means water. When water is stored in a reservoir by construction dam, the stored water will have gravitational potential energy. When water is allowed to flow down this PE is changed into kinetic energy. This KE will make the wheels of a turbine to rotate. This mechanical energy ie rotational energy is changed into electrical energy with the help of magnetic field. This phenomenon is known as electromagnetic induction, first found by Michael Faraday. This is how hydro power is changed into electrical power.

----

The energy in moving (falling) water, is supplied by gravity, and the moving water has kinetic energy. This mechanical energy is applied to turbine blades, and the turbines turn electric generators to generate electricity.

----

Hydro power is generated by using kinetic energy from flowing water to turn turbines in generators.

Turbine is moved with flow of water and this is coupled with generator to produce electricity

Locked rotor amperage is the amperage the motor draws when the voltage is first applied to the motor and the rotor has not started to turn. This amperage is usually up to 300% of the motors running amperage. Once the rotor starts to turn the motor generates a back EMF (electro motive force) that opposes the high inrush current. This back EMF drives the amperage down until the motor gets up to its rated speed at which time the motor amperage will be at its run amperage.

THAT MEANS THAT THE WINDOW IS NOT INITALIZED AND TO DO THAT YOU NEED HOLD THE WINDOW SWITCH ALL THE WAY UP AND HOLD IT THERE FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN PUT THE WINDOW DOWN AND HOLD THE SWITCH DOWN FOR A COUPLE SECONDS AND THEN IT SHOULD BE OK

the wires coming thur the d/s door are known too break pull the rubber root back and inspect,

Based on symptom: switch or motpr

Based on Nissan: switch

Replace Nissan window switches frequently lest you be caught open in the rain.

Disconnect the power window switch plug from the connector that connects it to the motor inside the door. It should be like a male and female type plug, all you need to di is locate the tab and slide the 2 apart. The circuit that remains on the door will be the one that goes down to the motor inside the door. The plug you want is the one under the switch that you push back and forth for up and down. Get a circuit tester small handheld unti that reads voltage and ohms and etc. (usually for less then $20.00). Make sure your circuit tester has a good battery. Turn the meter on and set it to DC volts and set it to 20. You are looking for a reading roughly to be 12volts on the meter. You will see the circuit tester has a red and black wire. Look at the connector and insert the lead of the red end into either the up or down terminal. Put the Black wire to a ground. Turn your ignition on, the meter should read zero. If you have the red lead against or in the up terminal, push the power window switch like you want to raise the window and watch the meter. You should get voltage, maybe 12 volts to read on the meter. The switch should allow the voltage to go to the motor to run the window mechanism to raise your window. Now try it but put the red lead on the DOWN side of the switch with the Black lead still connected to a ground. See if you get a reading on that. If your swicth is only working on one side I would suspect a faulty window switch. BUT if you get a voltage reading on the meter on both the up and down side tests, then this shows the voltage i s getting through the switch and now your problem lies in the window motor itself. The window switch should, note should be cheaper to replace than the motor but in today's electronics, who knows. If you have never used a circuit tester before, read the manual so you will know how to use it.

It might need a new regulator or ... just a small adjustment.

Leave them up and fix the A/C Take it to a qualified mechanmic Cant diagnose over the computer -- First, check the fuse/circuit breaker under hood or in fuse panel. (see owners manual depending on year)

One thing to check is the splice for ground wire (black) in the flex-boot between door and frame. The door switch only has that one path to ground, and will make your mirrors/windows/lock quit working. If the switches light up (97+), but the windows don't work, then this is not your problem. The other windows also won't work if the harness splice failed, as they see the window lock button as "locked".

Use a test light at the connector to the window controls, there should be 12V between Tan and Black, larger diameter wires. If no voltage, check TAN to Chassis Ground (lighter outlet edge), if no power there, look for fuse or trace back the tan to kick panel. If you have power to chassis ground but not at connector, then check continuity from larger solid black wire in connector to chassis ground.

The splices in the flex boot are a common problem in 90's Jeep Cherokees causing problems from mirrors to speakers. Running a new wire is easier than trying to find/fix the splice.

Anyway, the part# from napaonline.com is BK 6653601 for the drivers side (BK 6653602 for the passenger side).

Remove the door panel, time consuming but not too hard. Loosen the three 10mm bolts holding the motor in, remove the power connector.

Lower the window so that the two bolts holding it to the regulator are exposed, remove them. Push the window to the top, propping it at this position (a screwdriver through the access hole at the top left will prop on top of the exterior door handle keeping the window in place.

Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the regulator in place. 'Corkscrew' the regulator and motor out of the BIG hole at the back of the door.

Installation is the reverse of assembly.

EASY!