Electric Windows

Voltage is sent from battery through the up\down switch to the window roller upper moter. The motor moves the regulator up and down. The window is connected to the regulator. To check if the motor is bad try taking some jumper wires and connecting a 12 volt battry to the motor. It should go up or down. You can reverse the polarity and it will move the opposite way. It the motor moves this way then your switch is bad. Make sure you check fuses first though.

The power window motor/regulater on these cars are a cable based system .....when the window is slow to go up or down it means the cables are Rusting out and need replacing......OR if not rusty try oiling the cables on back of slider......NOTE:(( you can buy from the dealer or get an aftermarket at about half the price)).....this isn't all that hard to do ....First remove the inside door skin ....this is done by first removeing the screws behind the inside door handle ,,then use a flat screw driver to GENTLY pop the skin off ...working aroud the edge of the door. ...next reach in and unplug the power window and lock plugs and remove the skin......once this is done there are four screws that keep the motor in place 2 on bottom and 2 on top...you may have to move window down a bit to see top 2 screws ....NOTE use a shim to keep window from falling down when you remove screws...don;t want to let that window drop....once the screws are out you can remove the old assembly by manuevering it out thru the holes in door.....the window will have no support at this stage....REMEMBER to shim window ......replace with new assembly and do everything in reverse order... good luck .....takes about an hour

PRESS THE BUTTON DOWNHOW DID YOU GET A DRIVERS LICENSE

one of the less known about fuses that can cause all this to go out is the fuseable link. It is in a black plastic box near the battery. It is an appx 60A thin metal strip fuse. check the website link to the right for more info.

Take off door handle which has 2 rods connected to it, one for lock and the other for door opening. They slide in and are held in place with a plastic clamp that spins( dont break it as the rods will not stay in on their own). A couple of screws here and there 2 in the door pull handle, and on the bottom of the panel. The panel has to be slid up about a inch or 2 then pulled off. The top of the panel has to clear the lip at the top where it fits into the door next to the window.

Window motor and regulator are found inside of the door panel and may be bolted or riveted in. Should be bolted. Disconnect the window from regulator, take out reg. and motor, then disconnect regulator from motor, reconnect new motor to regulator, reattach those inside of the door, then reconnect the window to the regulator, put it together and see if it works.

Buy the correct color side mirror at a Salvage Yard and replace it. Can be done with simple tools.

I HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM..SOME TIMES U CAN HIT THE MOTOR WHILE U TRY TO HIT THE BUTTON TO MAKE IT ROLL UP AND SOME TIMES U HAVE TO WAIT AND JUST HIT THE BUTTON AND ONE LUCKY DAY IT WILL ROLL UP OR U CAN GET A NEW WINDOW MOTOR

Start by removing the silver brace on the lock side held by 2 screws. Next you have to unscrew the window latch on top. there is another screw underneath that is sometimes concealed as a manufacturers warranty type deal. Its important to note that the entire door is held together by small white clips and they can easiily be poped off ans lost, my suggestion is when it comes time to take it off have do it in a place where you can see everything that falls off incidentally. Unless you want to crack your wood pannel be carefull with it. If you pull up the metal handle and use a flathead you will revail a screw behind a thin peice of plastic. Unscrew that and get ready to remove the arm rest. There are three screws holding the arm rest one big on e located behind the thin plastic one that you'll need a pretty long Philips for and a third that will be obvious when the others are removed. You will have to tug on the panel. If the wodgran is glued on tight for watever reason try to work around that.

After the pannel is off then there are three screws holding the motor on. I wasted an entire day removing the whole brace and ended up putting the whole thing back together but if you get a socket wrench and feel for these three screws you will save yourself a lot of heart ache. One more tip is make sure you don't knock out the lights from the door panel you could put the whole door back together only to discover there is a wire in there that could mess you quite bad. Test the motor by pluging the two wires in and starting up the car and pressing the window from the center control unit in order not to waste time on a busted replacement getting the panel off is the trickiest part so don't do it twice if you don't have to. You may have to use a crowbar or something to get the pressure off the motors gears though. And finally don't let the glass sip down on your fingers. But I have found it is easier to work on this while it is up FYI. Good Luck!!!

Quite easily, IMO. I replaced two.

It's been about 10 years ago, but...if I remember correctly...Take the cover off of the arm rest (where the window controls are)...you'll see the entire piece, sitting in a pocket. I believe it's screwed in...unscrew it...lift it out...unplug the wires from it & replace it with a new one...in reverse order.

Hope that helps.

you have to take and split both ball joints after taking the big nut off you axil then set it aside and take the bolts out on the in side of the axil i

There is no need to separate the lower ball joint. Only upper ball joint and tie rod end. I highly recommend your getting a Haynes manual.

How do I take the back panel off

I tried to fix my driver side window, but after removing the panel saw that it was "mission impossible". I have never seen a more elaborate system of pulleys and cables. I would recommend taking it to a dealer. The mechanism cost me $97.00 and about the same to install it. Good luck if you try it yourself.

"I recommend you purchasing the HAYNES -and- the CHILTON manuals. The reason behind both is that one may have a better diagram or diagnosis of a problem that the other may overlook or not go in-depth. There are great schematics for wiring as well as parts break-down for those who are not afraid to try the do-it-yourself route. Always anticipate the best but prepare for the worst."

Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/remove-a-door-panel-from-any-vehicle-without-a-diagram

Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-regulator

It would depend what's wrong with the motor... it may be the motor or the assembly.. if your not having any sounds coming from the assembly, then check at the connector if power is actually getting to the motor..In many cases just by opening and closing the door, the wire inside the sleeve that feeds the motor and switch, gets broke , then you have to repair it... The motor itself is a simple motor, nothing fancy, I found a couple of times that the magnet which makes up the field in the motor breaks and jams the armature (the part that actually turns in the motor).. that's why I suggest to make sure that power is coming into the motor. once you verify this and there is, try running the motor without any cables connected.. you could have a jammed cable or dry track allowing the window to pull sideways and jamming it some more.. . if you find that it is the motor, you will probably find that most of them are self destructive, as they are not screwed together, they are assembled and another machine basically folds the metal closed. so to open the motor may make it impossible to re-assemble.

You have to replace the regulator with it. Buy a Haynes repair guide and it gives you step by step instructions. You can buy the assy for 57.95 @ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8016015347&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

There are a few ways to this. You can take the window out or leave it in.

1.) remove the door panel and pull back the sticky paper.

2.) After you do this, push the window up, clean the class and clean the two clips on the aluminum arm

3.) Use a silicon or if you want an epoxy to fill the two clips the window sits in and lower the window back into these two clips.

4.)use the window button to close the window and let the epoxy or silicon cure. I usually wait 1-2 days.

5.) You should be good to go until the next time it happens

The bezel that holds it into the door pull is only held in with a couple of tabs. With a flathead screw driver, put the end of the screw driver and pry up on the bezel and it should come free for you.

All of the wires to the switch are just clipped in. All you need to do is squeeze the clip tabs and the wires will come off of the switch.

I've also included a how to video showing this process.

Hope this helps out,

1ATony

i dont know but a friend fixes them up and sells them and he said almost every camaro hes had has had that problem and he cant fix it so good luck man

this was my first jeep project a year ago--since then I've done it 3 times.

bought the part for $70 online, took me 2 hours to do. now i can knock it out in about an hour.

jeep dealership wanted $325 to do it. Anyone can do this!

(sorry ahead of time for the lack of technical terms--but I'm going to describe items as easiest i can so you can spot them)

parts: Phillips head screwdriver, flat head screw driver, putty knife/ industrial razor blade, needle nose pliers, ratchet set

*disconnect battery

*use Phillips screw driver to unscrew all visible screws on the face of the door (should be just 2----1 behind door handle, 1 in the door grip)

*using a flat head screw driver, you're going to gently insert it along the edge of the plastic face and shimmy it back and forth to loosen the clips holding the face of the door to the metal frame of the door. be careful! in case one clip breaks, you can buy packs of these from Auto parts stores for $3

*once you have the last Clip popped out, hold the face of the door, and disconnect the electrical connectors from the Window control, and disconnect the 2 rods that operate the door handle & lock. these 2 rods will then hang from the plastic Door Face that you'll be placing off to the side. it's ok.

*now take out all of those Clips & place them onto the plastic Door Face you just removed---it'll make installation a breeze.

*to remove the water seal shroud, use the putty knife to gently scrape from top to bottom as you peel it away--try your best NOT to cut into the shroud. a little black residue will remain on the metal door, but most should come off with the shroud itself. place this shroud off to the side--careful NOT to place it sticky-side down! manuever this away from the door & slide the 2 metal rods through the pre-cut holes.

*disconnect the Speaker from the power cable & the audio cable. unscrew the speaker (4 to 5 screws) and place to the side.

*you can now see the Regulator & window assembly. slide the window to the bottom of the door. you should see 2 small clips holding the window to the Regulator. using Needle nose pliers, pull the small bronze clips out (careful not to drop them into the door frame) and place to the side.

*using 2 hands, slide the window up to the uppermost you can get it.

(some sites will instruct you to remove it, i found an easier way)

slide the window up as far as it will go---and use the Water plastic guards to prop it up. standing between the door & the seat, press the window outward. prop it using one hand, and press the Water plastic guards (small black lining at the bottom of the window where it meets the frame) towards the window & down. do this along the entire water guard. do this to both sides of the window. OR--simpler solution--get Packagin Tape & tape the window UP over the door frame

*using the ratchet, loosen the regulator & rail (4 bolts total). then, (this can be done--just takes some time to get it right), shimmy the regulator/rail out through the largest hole. I've done this 3 times, trust me--you can manoeuver it just right to do this. flip the motor from its original position (left or right of the rail) to the opposite side of the rail (left or right of the rail) and tilt it side ways, then pull it out through the largest hole in the door frame.

installation is the opposite of removal.

*note--the sticky black goo on the Water shroud will stay sticky for a while until you re-adhere it to the door frame, but if you let it sit in the cold, it will eventually harden & you'll have to use a blow-dryer to get it back to its sticky-ness. technical, i know.

Here's a great video that will show you the entire process. It's pretty easy.

well I've got this same issue on a VW Polo and I'm going to release the 2 window glass clamps, even if I need to cut an access hole to get a spanner on them, and then drop the entire window mech and cables, repair/replace the motor, then (on the bench) make the motor "drop the window clamps" to the half-open position, then replace the mech in the door and drop the glass back in and clamp it up.

I'm tempted to just break the glass window and drag the whole mech out. The window it not too expensive, and it would save having to unclamp it from the mech.

fingers crossed

GC United Kingdom

if only they would use decent kit in the first place.

redmond Washington i believe

Daimler introduced electric windows in cars in 1948.