Electric Windows

i dont know but a friend fixes them up and sells them and he said almost every camaro hes had has had that problem and he cant fix it so good luck man

this was my first jeep project a year ago--since then I've done it 3 times.

bought the part for $70 online, took me 2 hours to do. now i can knock it out in about an hour.

jeep dealership wanted $325 to do it. Anyone can do this!

(sorry ahead of time for the lack of technical terms--but I'm going to describe items as easiest i can so you can spot them)

parts: Phillips head screwdriver, flat head screw driver, putty knife/ industrial razor blade, needle nose pliers, ratchet set

*disconnect battery

*use Phillips screw driver to unscrew all visible screws on the face of the door (should be just 2----1 behind door handle, 1 in the door grip)

*using a flat head screw driver, you're going to gently insert it along the edge of the plastic face and shimmy it back and forth to loosen the clips holding the face of the door to the metal frame of the door. be careful! in case one clip breaks, you can buy packs of these from Auto parts stores for $3

*once you have the last Clip popped out, hold the face of the door, and disconnect the electrical connectors from the Window control, and disconnect the 2 rods that operate the door handle & lock. these 2 rods will then hang from the plastic Door Face that you'll be placing off to the side. it's ok.

*now take out all of those Clips & place them onto the plastic Door Face you just removed---it'll make installation a breeze.

*to remove the water seal shroud, use the putty knife to gently scrape from top to bottom as you peel it away--try your best NOT to cut into the shroud. a little black residue will remain on the metal door, but most should come off with the shroud itself. place this shroud off to the side--careful NOT to place it sticky-side down! manuever this away from the door & slide the 2 metal rods through the pre-cut holes.

*disconnect the Speaker from the power cable & the audio cable. unscrew the speaker (4 to 5 screws) and place to the side.

*you can now see the Regulator & window assembly. slide the window to the bottom of the door. you should see 2 small clips holding the window to the Regulator. using Needle nose pliers, pull the small bronze clips out (careful not to drop them into the door frame) and place to the side.

*using 2 hands, slide the window up to the uppermost you can get it.

(some sites will instruct you to remove it, i found an easier way)

slide the window up as far as it will go---and use the Water plastic guards to prop it up. standing between the door & the seat, press the window outward. prop it using one hand, and press the Water plastic guards (small black lining at the bottom of the window where it meets the frame) towards the window & down. do this along the entire water guard. do this to both sides of the window. OR--simpler solution--get Packagin Tape & tape the window UP over the door frame

*using the ratchet, loosen the regulator & rail (4 bolts total). then, (this can be done--just takes some time to get it right), shimmy the regulator/rail out through the largest hole. I've done this 3 times, trust me--you can manoeuver it just right to do this. flip the motor from its original position (left or right of the rail) to the opposite side of the rail (left or right of the rail) and tilt it side ways, then pull it out through the largest hole in the door frame.

installation is the opposite of removal.

*note--the sticky black goo on the Water shroud will stay sticky for a while until you re-adhere it to the door frame, but if you let it sit in the cold, it will eventually harden & you'll have to use a blow-dryer to get it back to its sticky-ness. technical, i know.

Here's a great video that will show you the entire process. It's pretty easy.

well I've got this same issue on a VW Polo and I'm going to release the 2 window glass clamps, even if I need to cut an access hole to get a spanner on them, and then drop the entire window mech and cables, repair/replace the motor, then (on the bench) make the motor "drop the window clamps" to the half-open position, then replace the mech in the door and drop the glass back in and clamp it up.

I'm tempted to just break the glass window and drag the whole mech out. The window it not too expensive, and it would save having to unclamp it from the mech.

fingers crossed

GC United Kingdom

if only they would use decent kit in the first place.

redmond Washington i believe

Daimler introduced electric windows in cars in 1948.

Probably need to replace the window regulator.

I think its fuse 18, the second from the left on the bottom row. This is among the inside fuses underneath the change container on left of steering wheel (just yank it out, fuses underneath)

However, if this fuse blows it takes the whole dash with it, my turn signals (just signals, hazards work), speedo, tacho, and power windows are constantly shorting out due to this fuse. Apparently also the reverse lights are also hooked to this. Real safe to drive this way, i can tell ya! Can't signal and can't lower windows to hand signal!

If just the power windows don't work this could be a sign that they specifically are disconnected, or perhaps their controls got unplugged.

Hmmm... this is a little complicated, and impossible to explain, so read these threads on jaguarforums.com and watch the videos embedded in the threads. This first one shows you how to remove the door panel. You have to copy and paste the text because links are apparently not allowed.

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-17/instructions-door-panel-removal-door-card-you-brits-faq-37325/

And this one shows you how to adjust the window:

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-17/how-adjust-windows-eliminate-wind-noise-video-faq-50534/

Note: I don't show the front adjustment in the video, but if you read further down in the thread someone else explains it. And BE CAREFUL! Disconnect the battery. I almost chopped off a hand because the window came down unexpectedly with my hand inside of the door.

On any power window system:

1- check the fuses 2- check the switches 3- check the motor, go up/down and listen for an attempt for the motor to move 4- check the window relay

you prolly need a new window motor... check a local junkyard.

A faulty power window switch or faulty wiring. The motor works in either direction (there is only one motor per window), so it's not the motor but the wiring or the window switch. Unless the motor control is damaged, that is. Check the switch for continuity first, then check the continuity of the wiring. If you don't find the fault in either of those places, check the motor assembly. Post back here with your findings. Thank you.

You need to pull back the inner fender cover on the rear of the pass front wheel. There are 3 or 4 screws to remove and a couple plastic clips. If you are careful you can pop it off (and later onto) the plastic clips. You will not need to remove the entire inner fender cover, just part of it. It is pliable and strong so you can muscle it out of the way. Hope this helps.

The spring that assists the window to the up position is very strong and do not attempt to remove the old motor with the window in the down position. Your fingers wil thank you. -Inspect the power window switches for broken or loose wires. -Check the power window fuse or circuit breaker. -Remove door panels and check power window motor wires to see if they are loose or damaged. Inspect the glass mechanism for damage which can cause binding. -If it's only one window not working and all the above checks out ok then you may have to replace the window motor.

there is a fuse, but 9 out of ten times it will be the motor.

First check fuse,if good take door panel off the door that window is not working and check for power with test light at window motor while pressing window control switch,if power is present,than tap motor with hammer and see if brushes free up. If this will not fix it than you need to get new motor.

let go of the button

The gears are most likely stripped, youll have to take the door panel off and replace them. Or do what I did put the window up and jam a piece of cardboard in the bottom.

I ended up replacing the regulator on both doors. The system is basically a rubber gear bonded to the electric motor, which sits within a nylon gear (kind of looks like a starfish) that runs the window up and down. I tried, unsuccessfully, to epoxy the motor drive-shaft to the rubber gear, but it only lasted a couple of weeks. Finally bought two at a junkyard. They were easy to replace.

There was a recall on window clips. Go to your dealer and they should fix it for free.

It probably slipped down into the bottom of the door. It happened to mine and I just removed my door panel and slid it back up.

First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. There's a quick disconnect inside the door. Disconnect the motor there and attach either an automotive test light or a voltmeter and try to raise/lower the window. You should see 12 VDC with a meter or the test light should come on. If it does, try the motor. To remove the motor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces of duct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from falling once you remove the window regulator. There are three or four rivets that hold the window regulator assembly to the door. These will have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly. You have to slide the regulator arm out of the bottom track of the window itself, and then it's a matter of maneuvering the assembly out of the door. Once it's out, there are three bolts that hold the motor to the assembly. Remove the motor and replace it. I have aftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores which have lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. They are much cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty as well. Do your homework on price. To reinstall, reassemble the motor/regulator and worm it back into the door. Since you drilled out the rivets, you can use 1/4-20 bolts, washers and nuts to hold the assembly on. Put the bolts in from INSIDE the door, so that the bolt head is facing inside, and the bolt body is sticking out. Use at least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts on it, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel. If you don't, your door panel won't fit. This is exactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. Twice. Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and once because the aftermarket part broke. Hope it helps...

If the fuse is labelled F it is fast-blow or T OR S it is slow-blow, the letter should be on the metal cap on the ends of the fuse.

The regulator is about $150.00 by itself, and labor about $200.00 if done by an independent shop. These figures would be at least double if done by the dealer.

If you do this job yourself, you can get the regulator for as little as $25.00 online. Took me about an hour apiece to do each window. First one is kind of tricky but after that, it's pretty easy.

ITs also going to depend if you need to drill out the rivets in the door.. Also food for thought its good time to check the widow motor take the cover off.. These internal "plastic roller bearings" are known for failure. Replace them with hardware from your tool box. The old trick is to put three nuts from a 1/4 inch bolt. They fit exactly in the spot.. and they will NOT fail like the plastic bearings that are factory.. The reason its important to check them is because if you install that window regulator (like i did) and the motor is bad its a royal pain to take everything out to replace the motor... and you cant replace the motor with out taking that regulator out.... You can get both parts off ebay...

The time it takes for a fuse to blow, either "fast blow" or "slow blow" is determined by the design of the fuse and is described in a table or graph provided by the manufacturer. In general, the higher the applied overload current, the faster the fuse will blow. Fast blow fuses can open in milliseconds, slow blow fuses can open in several seconds. The fuse used depends entirely on the application and what kind of circuit it is protecting.

if you have already replaced the motor, i would look into getting a window regulator. take some spray silcone and spray the window tracks. when a fuse blows it blows. all the fuse dose is provide a path for current to flow. when it blows there is a "open" in the circuit and current will no longer be able to flow. sounds like it could also be a bad ground.

Les Paul invented the electric gutiar's SOLID BODY. Adolph Rickenbacker is the inventer of the first modern amplifiable electric guitar.