Electric Windows

To give an average without having lived there or having some documented history of power usage would be almost impossible. Even though you specified all electric, it would depend on how you use your appliances and how often. I will say though, that in many climates in the U.S. the HVAC system is 50 percent or more of the electric bill. So a large part of the average would be how often your AC or heat is running. To answer this for yourself, you'd have to do some math, and guess how often you would be using your appliances. You are billed by kilowatt-hour, and that is using 1000 watts for one hour. Example: A 100 watt light bulb is on 8 hours a day at night. This uses 100 watts per hour for 8 hours, which is the same as 800 watts for one hour, or 0.8 kilowatt-hours. This light will cost you about 24 kWh per month, at your electricity rate (check with the company for rates). If you don't know your rate you can estimate at 7 cents per kWh until you find out the rate. TIP: To determine power usage of appliances, look at the nameplate for watts or amps. ( The nameplate is where the serial number is) To change amps to watts, multiply the amps by the voltage used (either 120 or 240).

They are a safety feature in the case of an energy surge - without the fuse damage could be dome to the appliance, with the fuse if their is a surge of electricity it burns out the fuse so can't travel all the way to the appliance damaging it.

Because it is a nonmetal

A hydro dam works by taking the energy of water flow and converting it into an electric voltage. The water is regulated through a series of water turbines. The water flows through the turbine, pushing the turbine blades causing a rotation to a shaft. The shaft is then attached to an electrical generator. Inside the electrical generator, magnets are rotated around wire coil inductors which cause a voltage.

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The word 'hydro' means water. When water is stored in a reservoir by construction dam, the stored water will have gravitational potential energy. When water is allowed to flow down this PE is changed into kinetic energy. This KE will make the wheels of a turbine to rotate. This mechanical energy ie rotational energy is changed into electrical energy with the help of magnetic field. This phenomenon is known as electromagnetic induction, first found by Michael Faraday. This is how hydro power is changed into electrical power.

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The energy in moving (falling) water, is supplied by gravity, and the moving water has kinetic energy. This mechanical energy is applied to turbine blades, and the turbines turn electric generators to generate electricity.

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Hydro power is generated by using kinetic energy from flowing water to turn turbines in generators.

Turbine is moved with flow of water and this is coupled with generator to produce electricity

Locked rotor amperage is the amperage the motor draws when the voltage is first applied to the motor and the rotor has not started to turn. This amperage is usually up to 300% of the motors running amperage. Once the rotor starts to turn the motor generates a back EMF (electro motive force) that opposes the high inrush current. This back EMF drives the amperage down until the motor gets up to its rated speed at which time the motor amperage will be at its run amperage.

THAT MEANS THAT THE WINDOW IS NOT INITALIZED AND TO DO THAT YOU NEED HOLD THE WINDOW SWITCH ALL THE WAY UP AND HOLD IT THERE FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN PUT THE WINDOW DOWN AND HOLD THE SWITCH DOWN FOR A COUPLE SECONDS AND THEN IT SHOULD BE OK

the wires coming thur the d/s door are known too break pull the rubber root back and inspect,

Based on symptom: switch or motpr

Based on Nissan: switch

Replace Nissan window switches frequently lest you be caught open in the rain.

Disconnect the power window switch plug from the connector that connects it to the motor inside the door. It should be like a male and female type plug, all you need to di is locate the tab and slide the 2 apart. The circuit that remains on the door will be the one that goes down to the motor inside the door. The plug you want is the one under the switch that you push back and forth for up and down. Get a circuit tester small handheld unti that reads voltage and ohms and etc. (usually for less then $20.00). Make sure your circuit tester has a good battery. Turn the meter on and set it to DC volts and set it to 20. You are looking for a reading roughly to be 12volts on the meter. You will see the circuit tester has a red and black wire. Look at the connector and insert the lead of the red end into either the up or down terminal. Put the Black wire to a ground. Turn your ignition on, the meter should read zero. If you have the red lead against or in the up terminal, push the power window switch like you want to raise the window and watch the meter. You should get voltage, maybe 12 volts to read on the meter. The switch should allow the voltage to go to the motor to run the window mechanism to raise your window. Now try it but put the red lead on the DOWN side of the switch with the Black lead still connected to a ground. See if you get a reading on that. If your swicth is only working on one side I would suspect a faulty window switch. BUT if you get a voltage reading on the meter on both the up and down side tests, then this shows the voltage i s getting through the switch and now your problem lies in the window motor itself. The window switch should, note should be cheaper to replace than the motor but in today's electronics, who knows. If you have never used a circuit tester before, read the manual so you will know how to use it.

It might need a new regulator or ... just a small adjustment.

Leave them up and fix the A/C Take it to a qualified mechanmic Cant diagnose over the computer -- First, check the fuse/circuit breaker under hood or in fuse panel. (see owners manual depending on year)

One thing to check is the splice for ground wire (black) in the flex-boot between door and frame. The door switch only has that one path to ground, and will make your mirrors/windows/lock quit working. If the switches light up (97+), but the windows don't work, then this is not your problem. The other windows also won't work if the harness splice failed, as they see the window lock button as "locked".

Use a test light at the connector to the window controls, there should be 12V between Tan and Black, larger diameter wires. If no voltage, check TAN to Chassis Ground (lighter outlet edge), if no power there, look for fuse or trace back the tan to kick panel. If you have power to chassis ground but not at connector, then check continuity from larger solid black wire in connector to chassis ground.

The splices in the flex boot are a common problem in 90's Jeep Cherokees causing problems from mirrors to speakers. Running a new wire is easier than trying to find/fix the splice.

Anyway, the part# from napaonline.com is BK 6653601 for the drivers side (BK 6653602 for the passenger side).

Remove the door panel, time consuming but not too hard. Loosen the three 10mm bolts holding the motor in, remove the power connector.

Lower the window so that the two bolts holding it to the regulator are exposed, remove them. Push the window to the top, propping it at this position (a screwdriver through the access hole at the top left will prop on top of the exterior door handle keeping the window in place.

Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the regulator in place. 'Corkscrew' the regulator and motor out of the BIG hole at the back of the door.

Installation is the reverse of assembly.

EASY!

Voltage is sent from battery through the up\down switch to the window roller upper moter. The motor moves the regulator up and down. The window is connected to the regulator. To check if the motor is bad try taking some jumper wires and connecting a 12 volt battry to the motor. It should go up or down. You can reverse the polarity and it will move the opposite way. It the motor moves this way then your switch is bad. Make sure you check fuses first though.

The power window motor/regulater on these cars are a cable based system .....when the window is slow to go up or down it means the cables are Rusting out and need replacing......OR if not rusty try oiling the cables on back of slider......NOTE:(( you can buy from the dealer or get an aftermarket at about half the price)).....this isn't all that hard to do ....First remove the inside door skin ....this is done by first removeing the screws behind the inside door handle ,,then use a flat screw driver to GENTLY pop the skin off ...working aroud the edge of the door. ...next reach in and unplug the power window and lock plugs and remove the skin......once this is done there are four screws that keep the motor in place 2 on bottom and 2 on top...you may have to move window down a bit to see top 2 screws ....NOTE use a shim to keep window from falling down when you remove screws...don;t want to let that window drop....once the screws are out you can remove the old assembly by manuevering it out thru the holes in door.....the window will have no support at this stage....REMEMBER to shim window ......replace with new assembly and do everything in reverse order... good luck .....takes about an hour

PRESS THE BUTTON DOWNHOW DID YOU GET A DRIVERS LICENSE

one of the less known about fuses that can cause all this to go out is the fuseable link. It is in a black plastic box near the battery. It is an appx 60A thin metal strip fuse. check the website link to the right for more info.

Take off door handle which has 2 rods connected to it, one for lock and the other for door opening. They slide in and are held in place with a plastic clamp that spins( dont break it as the rods will not stay in on their own). A couple of screws here and there 2 in the door pull handle, and on the bottom of the panel. The panel has to be slid up about a inch or 2 then pulled off. The top of the panel has to clear the lip at the top where it fits into the door next to the window.

Window motor and regulator are found inside of the door panel and may be bolted or riveted in. Should be bolted. Disconnect the window from regulator, take out reg. and motor, then disconnect regulator from motor, reconnect new motor to regulator, reattach those inside of the door, then reconnect the window to the regulator, put it together and see if it works.

Buy the correct color side mirror at a Salvage Yard and replace it. Can be done with simple tools.

I HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM..SOME TIMES U CAN HIT THE MOTOR WHILE U TRY TO HIT THE BUTTON TO MAKE IT ROLL UP AND SOME TIMES U HAVE TO WAIT AND JUST HIT THE BUTTON AND ONE LUCKY DAY IT WILL ROLL UP OR U CAN GET A NEW WINDOW MOTOR

Start by removing the silver brace on the lock side held by 2 screws. Next you have to unscrew the window latch on top. there is another screw underneath that is sometimes concealed as a manufacturers warranty type deal. Its important to note that the entire door is held together by small white clips and they can easiily be poped off ans lost, my suggestion is when it comes time to take it off have do it in a place where you can see everything that falls off incidentally. Unless you want to crack your wood pannel be carefull with it. If you pull up the metal handle and use a flathead you will revail a screw behind a thin peice of plastic. Unscrew that and get ready to remove the arm rest. There are three screws holding the arm rest one big on e located behind the thin plastic one that you'll need a pretty long Philips for and a third that will be obvious when the others are removed. You will have to tug on the panel. If the wodgran is glued on tight for watever reason try to work around that.

After the pannel is off then there are three screws holding the motor on. I wasted an entire day removing the whole brace and ended up putting the whole thing back together but if you get a socket wrench and feel for these three screws you will save yourself a lot of heart ache. One more tip is make sure you don't knock out the lights from the door panel you could put the whole door back together only to discover there is a wire in there that could mess you quite bad. Test the motor by pluging the two wires in and starting up the car and pressing the window from the center control unit in order not to waste time on a busted replacement getting the panel off is the trickiest part so don't do it twice if you don't have to. You may have to use a crowbar or something to get the pressure off the motors gears though. And finally don't let the glass sip down on your fingers. But I have found it is easier to work on this while it is up FYI. Good Luck!!!

Quite easily, IMO. I replaced two.

It's been about 10 years ago, but...if I remember correctly...Take the cover off of the arm rest (where the window controls are)...you'll see the entire piece, sitting in a pocket. I believe it's screwed in...unscrew it...lift it out...unplug the wires from it & replace it with a new one...in reverse order.

Hope that helps.

you have to take and split both ball joints after taking the big nut off you axil then set it aside and take the bolts out on the in side of the axil i

There is no need to separate the lower ball joint. Only upper ball joint and tie rod end. I highly recommend your getting a Haynes manual.

How do I take the back panel off