Electric Windows

Probably need to replace the window regulator.

I think its fuse 18, the second from the left on the bottom row. This is among the inside fuses underneath the change container on left of steering wheel (just yank it out, fuses underneath)

However, if this fuse blows it takes the whole dash with it, my turn signals (just signals, hazards work), speedo, tacho, and power windows are constantly shorting out due to this fuse. Apparently also the reverse lights are also hooked to this. Real safe to drive this way, i can tell ya! Can't signal and can't lower windows to hand signal!

If just the power windows don't work this could be a sign that they specifically are disconnected, or perhaps their controls got unplugged.

Hmmm... this is a little complicated, and impossible to explain, so read these threads on jaguarforums.com and watch the videos embedded in the threads. This first one shows you how to remove the door panel. You have to copy and paste the text because links are apparently not allowed.

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-17/instructions-door-panel-removal-door-card-you-brits-faq-37325/

And this one shows you how to adjust the window:

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-17/how-adjust-windows-eliminate-wind-noise-video-faq-50534/

Note: I don't show the front adjustment in the video, but if you read further down in the thread someone else explains it. And BE CAREFUL! Disconnect the battery. I almost chopped off a hand because the window came down unexpectedly with my hand inside of the door.

On any power window system:

1- check the fuses 2- check the switches 3- check the motor, go up/down and listen for an attempt for the motor to move 4- check the window relay

you prolly need a new window motor... check a local junkyard.

A faulty power window switch or faulty wiring. The motor works in either direction (there is only one motor per window), so it's not the motor but the wiring or the window switch. Unless the motor control is damaged, that is. Check the switch for continuity first, then check the continuity of the wiring. If you don't find the fault in either of those places, check the motor assembly. Post back here with your findings. Thank you.

You need to pull back the inner fender cover on the rear of the pass front wheel. There are 3 or 4 screws to remove and a couple plastic clips. If you are careful you can pop it off (and later onto) the plastic clips. You will not need to remove the entire inner fender cover, just part of it. It is pliable and strong so you can muscle it out of the way. Hope this helps.

The spring that assists the window to the up position is very strong and do not attempt to remove the old motor with the window in the down position. Your fingers wil thank you. -Inspect the power window switches for broken or loose wires. -Check the power window fuse or circuit breaker. -Remove door panels and check power window motor wires to see if they are loose or damaged. Inspect the glass mechanism for damage which can cause binding. -If it's only one window not working and all the above checks out ok then you may have to replace the window motor.

there is a fuse, but 9 out of ten times it will be the motor.

First check fuse,if good take door panel off the door that window is not working and check for power with test light at window motor while pressing window control switch,if power is present,than tap motor with hammer and see if brushes free up. If this will not fix it than you need to get new motor.

let go of the button

The gears are most likely stripped, youll have to take the door panel off and replace them. Or do what I did put the window up and jam a piece of cardboard in the bottom.

I ended up replacing the regulator on both doors. The system is basically a rubber gear bonded to the electric motor, which sits within a nylon gear (kind of looks like a starfish) that runs the window up and down. I tried, unsuccessfully, to epoxy the motor drive-shaft to the rubber gear, but it only lasted a couple of weeks. Finally bought two at a junkyard. They were easy to replace.

There was a recall on window clips. Go to your dealer and they should fix it for free.

It probably slipped down into the bottom of the door. It happened to mine and I just removed my door panel and slid it back up.

First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. There's a quick disconnect inside the door. Disconnect the motor there and attach either an automotive test light or a voltmeter and try to raise/lower the window. You should see 12 VDC with a meter or the test light should come on. If it does, try the motor. To remove the motor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces of duct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from falling once you remove the window regulator. There are three or four rivets that hold the window regulator assembly to the door. These will have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly. You have to slide the regulator arm out of the bottom track of the window itself, and then it's a matter of maneuvering the assembly out of the door. Once it's out, there are three bolts that hold the motor to the assembly. Remove the motor and replace it. I have aftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores which have lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. They are much cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty as well. Do your homework on price. To reinstall, reassemble the motor/regulator and worm it back into the door. Since you drilled out the rivets, you can use 1/4-20 bolts, washers and nuts to hold the assembly on. Put the bolts in from INSIDE the door, so that the bolt head is facing inside, and the bolt body is sticking out. Use at least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts on it, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel. If you don't, your door panel won't fit. This is exactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. Twice. Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and once because the aftermarket part broke. Hope it helps...

If the fuse is labelled F it is fast-blow or T OR S it is slow-blow, the letter should be on the metal cap on the ends of the fuse.

The regulator is about $150.00 by itself, and labor about $200.00 if done by an independent shop. These figures would be at least double if done by the dealer.

If you do this job yourself, you can get the regulator for as little as $25.00 online. Took me about an hour apiece to do each window. First one is kind of tricky but after that, it's pretty easy.

ITs also going to depend if you need to drill out the rivets in the door.. Also food for thought its good time to check the widow motor take the cover off.. These internal "plastic roller bearings" are known for failure. Replace them with hardware from your tool box. The old trick is to put three nuts from a 1/4 inch bolt. They fit exactly in the spot.. and they will NOT fail like the plastic bearings that are factory.. The reason its important to check them is because if you install that window regulator (like i did) and the motor is bad its a royal pain to take everything out to replace the motor... and you cant replace the motor with out taking that regulator out.... You can get both parts off ebay...

The time it takes for a fuse to blow, either "fast blow" or "slow blow" is determined by the design of the fuse and is described in a table or graph provided by the manufacturer. In general, the higher the applied overload current, the faster the fuse will blow. Fast blow fuses can open in milliseconds, slow blow fuses can open in several seconds. The fuse used depends entirely on the application and what kind of circuit it is protecting.

if you have already replaced the motor, i would look into getting a window regulator. take some spray silcone and spray the window tracks. when a fuse blows it blows. all the fuse dose is provide a path for current to flow. when it blows there is a "open" in the circuit and current will no longer be able to flow. sounds like it could also be a bad ground.

Les Paul invented the electric gutiar's SOLID BODY. Adolph Rickenbacker is the inventer of the first modern amplifiable electric guitar.

If it's power windows then the motor for the windows is done and it needs new switches. If you want to get brand new motor and switches it costs about $800 or if you can find some in a junkyard somewhere.

Check fuses

Get a professional to do it.

You don't want to break the glass, and have 7 years of bad luck!

Well if everything else is working, then the window itself maybe stuck. That maybe the only that could be wrong with it.