Electric Windows

It probably slipped down into the bottom of the door. It happened to mine and I just removed my door panel and slid it back up.

First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. There's a quick disconnect inside the door. Disconnect the motor there and attach either an automotive test light or a voltmeter and try to raise/lower the window. You should see 12 VDC with a meter or the test light should come on. If it does, try the motor. To remove the motor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces of duct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from falling once you remove the window regulator. There are three or four rivets that hold the window regulator assembly to the door. These will have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly. You have to slide the regulator arm out of the bottom track of the window itself, and then it's a matter of maneuvering the assembly out of the door. Once it's out, there are three bolts that hold the motor to the assembly. Remove the motor and replace it. I have aftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores which have lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. They are much cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty as well. Do your homework on price. To reinstall, reassemble the motor/regulator and worm it back into the door. Since you drilled out the rivets, you can use 1/4-20 bolts, washers and nuts to hold the assembly on. Put the bolts in from INSIDE the door, so that the bolt head is facing inside, and the bolt body is sticking out. Use at least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts on it, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel. If you don't, your door panel won't fit. This is exactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. Twice. Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and once because the aftermarket part broke. Hope it helps...

If the fuse is labelled F it is fast-blow or T OR S it is slow-blow, the letter should be on the metal cap on the ends of the fuse.

The regulator is about $150.00 by itself, and labor about $200.00 if done by an independent shop. These figures would be at least double if done by the dealer.

If you do this job yourself, you can get the regulator for as little as $25.00 online. Took me about an hour apiece to do each window. First one is kind of tricky but after that, it's pretty easy.

ITs also going to depend if you need to drill out the rivets in the door.. Also food for thought its good time to check the widow motor take the cover off.. These internal "plastic roller bearings" are known for failure. Replace them with hardware from your tool box. The old trick is to put three nuts from a 1/4 inch bolt. They fit exactly in the spot.. and they will NOT fail like the plastic bearings that are factory.. The reason its important to check them is because if you install that window regulator (like i did) and the motor is bad its a royal pain to take everything out to replace the motor... and you cant replace the motor with out taking that regulator out.... You can get both parts off ebay...

The time it takes for a fuse to blow, either "fast blow" or "slow blow" is determined by the design of the fuse and is described in a table or graph provided by the manufacturer. In general, the higher the applied overload current, the faster the fuse will blow. Fast blow fuses can open in milliseconds, slow blow fuses can open in several seconds. The fuse used depends entirely on the application and what kind of circuit it is protecting.

if you have already replaced the motor, i would look into getting a window regulator. take some spray silcone and spray the window tracks. when a fuse blows it blows. all the fuse dose is provide a path for current to flow. when it blows there is a "open" in the circuit and current will no longer be able to flow. sounds like it could also be a bad ground.

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If it's power windows then the motor for the windows is done and it needs new switches. If you want to get brand new motor and switches it costs about $800 or if you can find some in a junkyard somewhere.

Check fuses

Get a professional to do it.

You don't want to break the glass, and have 7 years of bad luck!

Well if everything else is working, then the window itself maybe stuck. That maybe the only that could be wrong with it.

da book everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a SHOP manual available in the reference section--make copies of the right info and read up..you'll be a pro in no time ...good luck:) under box behind hand brake lift flap unscrew and you can see it about 4 inches long

I'm assuming you mean the window is off it's guide rail. And that these are power windows. Unfortunately, that item is sold from Mitsubishi w/ the motor as a one piece package ONLY. (I know, how stupid is that) and also that's on a 2000 Galant. Once the window is off the guide rail, most of the time it's not a simple matter of just getting back on the guide. The guide rail is made of plastic! And over time will deteriorate. So whole thing along w/ a new motor has to be installed. If you know a mechanic,you can save some $$$$. I got mine installed for only $75, (but that's because I knew this guy really well) Under regular conditions I believe Mitz. wants about $150.00 for the part (being a '94 maybe less) and Mitz said it would run another $150 to install. So check around.

The radio and power windows may stop working due to a blown fuse, which interrupts the electrical circuit supplying power to these systems. Additionally, issues such as a faulty switch, wiring problems, or a malfunctioning battery can also contribute to their failure. In some cases, a bad ground connection can prevent proper operation. It's important to diagnose the specific cause to effectively resolve the issue.

Generally with any power windows you need to check if you have power & ground to the motor. If you can put power to it, and it works, that tells you the motor is functioning. Then you need to replace the switch. If the motor doesn't work either up or down. Then the motor is bad.

It is important to keep everything in a car working well. When a power window stops working, it is important to make repair it by replacing the window motor, the blown fuse or the wiring that may be causing the windows to not function.

If the window can go down but not up, the power window motor and fuse are working. Check the switch for dirty contacts and/or wiring for damage.

The fuse panel is located inside fuse box cover which is under he dash, near the steering wheel column on your Ford Econoline.

inside of the door of the Monte Carlo there are two tan wires, a larger one, a smaller one, a blue wire, and a black, try to get some shrink rubber for wires or electrical tape either one, I prefer the rubber all you need to do is put it on one end before tieing the two wires each together and then take a lighter and heat the rubber and it will shrink around the exposed wires. When you put the door trim back on the locks will work I recently worked on a 1992 Monte Carlo with the exact problem.

window regulators are junk in these vehicles - check for bad regulator cables regulators about 250-300 bucks and 1.0 to 1.5 hours of labor

you go behind the valley windworks (near floaroma town) use surf near that bridge go right up across there is a little island with a pokeball pick it up and theres an electrizer also there is another item next to the electrizer

i believe you take off the inner door panel and manually raise the window or remove to get to the motor and replace it with a new one

duct tape a garbage bag over the hole where the window was. nice and breezy.

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A fuse always blows for excessive current. Either the device it is protecting is going bad and drawing excessive current, or you have a short in the wiring (or device).

Are you using the right value of fuse ? If this involves your brake lights or turn signals, it could be the bulb itself. Quite often the filaments short internally inside the bulb when they blow, and short the brake wiring to the turn signal wiring. Check for a bulb with a white residue inside it. If you find one, replace it. It will probably have two contacts in the base, one for each filament.

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