0
Electric Windows
The first electric windows were introduced in 1940 as an alternative to the hand-turned windows. These car windows can be lowered and raised by pressing a switch or button. Electric windows are designed for convenience and safety.
2,720 Questions
Replace Left hand power window regulator on 1995 Saturn SC?
I just did this in a 1993 SW2 and I'm assuming that the door construction is relatively the same.
1. Remove the mirror. You'll need a Philips screw driver, a set of small Allen keys and a 10mm metric wrench. First remove the interior trim by undoing the screw and detaching the mirror adjustor (assuming manual here) using the appropriate Allen key. Next remove the insulation and detach the 3 nuts holding the mirror using the 10mm wrench being carefull not to drop the nuts. The mirror should pull off with a gentle tug.
2. Remove the exterior door skin. You'll need a Torx screwdriver . On the inside edge of the door you'll see a series of black headed flat screws that fit a Torx screwdriver and hold the exterior skin on. Remove these. Remove the door handle by lifting up on it and carefully pulling the 2 pins from the bottom. Next slide the door handle to the left and it should come off rather easily. Finally, remove the black window gasket where the door panel meets the bottom of the window. Do this by pulling up firmly on the gasket. Once this is removed the door panel should pull off with gentle force exposing the inside of the door.
3. Remove the interior door panel. You'll need a Philips screwdriver for this. First, detach the mechanism for the interior door handle and lock accessed from the exerior. There are little clips that you'll need to detach before you can pull the rods out. Now, from the interior remove the door handle and trim by removing the 3 screws and then sliding the unit forwards and prying outwards. Once complete, gently pull the interior door panel off by prying at the edges.
Remove the lower space frame supports on the exterior. You'll need a 10mm wrench. There are 2 rods held onto the door with 3 bolts that come from the bottom corners to the middle door support. Remove these.
5. Remove the power window motor and regulator as one unit. You'll need a drill, drill bits and a 10mm wrench. Drill out the 4 rivets holding the motor and regulator mechanism to the door. Undo the 2 bolts holding the lower regulator track. Carefull that the window does not fall down at this point. Finally, slide the wheels out of the upper regulator track that is attached to the window. This will take a bit of patience.
6. Install the new window motor and regulator using 4 x 10mm long bolts and locknuts where the rivets were drilled out and then reverse the steps above to reassemble the door.
In my experience I determined that there are 2 types of window motor/regulator parts. If the new one is not the same a the old then you'll need to reverse the upper regulator track attached to the window. This requires a specialized tool which you may be better off bringing the window into a auto glass shop so they can do this. There is enough room to drop the window out the bottom of the door by turning it sideways and carefully manouvering it.
Good Luck
passenger side button is broken.....
2001 mustang power windows don't operate?
If the power window on your ford vehicle won't go up, before buying a switch and motor like I did, try this. First step, with the key in the "on" position, push the button for the window to go down (even though it is already down). While holding the button, seriously, kick the door panel about 6" above the bottom of the door in the center, length wise. Kick it hard and kick it good-just remember those rainy days that this window has failed you. Next, push the window button up and hold it in-if it does not raise right away, another one or two kicks maybe all it needs! It worked for me and my friends alike-which. The cause of this is from hot days where the grease on the regulator inside the door solidifies and jams the motor. Just remember never to fully lower your windows during warm days!
How do you change the roll down window regulator on the drivers side in a 1999 Ford Escort?
You should be able to find a shop manual for this at the local library...make copies of the right pages...)
How do you replace the master power window switch on the drivers door of a 1999 subaru outback?
Just pry it up with the help of a flat blunt tool and disconnect. Reconnect to new one. Verify operation before snapping it back in...
Where is the fuse for the electric door locks on a 96 Saturn SL2?
should be psgr side kick panel on the left pull off the plastic cover the relays and the fuse will be there not sure witch one inside of plastic cover will show you what is what
How do you replace the back window on a 1985 Lincoln Town Car?
By taking it to a auto glass repair shop. This is definitely not a DIY job.
Just had this problem in my 2007 F150. Found that the arm on the rocker switch was bent up and just bent it back down. Enter the armrest by prying open along the side with a blade screwdriver. Disconnect wiring harnesses. Open switch box, but first you remove the plastic rocker switch covers by prying under both edges simultaneously. Once the box is open identify the problem switch (FR - front right, FL, RR, RL). By pressing the switches, you can see which rocker arm to adjust. Hold down one side with needlenose and squezee the other enough to close the gap a bit. Good luck.
What do you do if the driver's side power window on a 2001 Dodge Caravan will go down but not up?
"You need a new power window motor regulator."
Yes... Or TRY the no cost option:
Sit in vehicle with legs in vehicle, ignition key ON.
Open door,
Window switch pressed for desired travel,
keep holding it while SLAM door hard,
enjoy your functioning power window again.
Repeat as necessary.
Where is the fuse box for the power windows on a 1995 Isuzu Rodeo?
Open the drivers side door,look at the end or side of dash where door meets. Try that Look under the dash where the other fuses are and you will see a little fuse block with a tiny red reset button. If the button is out, push it in to reset your window fuse. My windows have quit working twice and I had to do this, and then I haven't had the problem in months.
Where is the power window relay for a 1992 Acura Integra?
Try looking under the hood below the battery theres a black box. If its not there check your fuse panel Actually you gave a wrong information what have you been posted here. because i do have an Integra with Wiring Diagram
Are you sure you didn't hit the window lock on the control panel? Right beside the switches on the drivers door.
Passenger side electric window does not open?
Get a wire tester and start at the window motor. If it has electricity going to the motor, then the motor is burned out. No electricity, follow the wire to the switch (and so on).
Try replacing the Circuit breaker (rectangular silver block 20-30 Amp located in most fuse panels), it may be faulty. Next test for 12-Volt at the same fuse point (circuit breaker) Hot Lead, with the ignition switch in both accessory and run positions. (you do not need to start it) If you have power at the hot lead of the fuse then you know you are providing power to the circuit. If you don't have power in either position then you have an open circuit somewhere between the ignition console and the fuse panel. Run a separate power lead bypass from a continuous 12 Volt Positive source through a switch rated at 30 Amps directly to the fuse panel where you should have read the 12 volts with ignition switch on. This will allow you to power the windows directly in the event of window failure. The next option would be to get a Haynes manual for your type of vehicle and look at the wiring diagrams located near the back to see if your system incorporates a relay. The relay may be bad. (replace) Other than those suggestions you may have a pooched wiring harness witch can be rather expensive and time consuming to replace.Best of luck.Stickletistick_99@telus.net
AnswerThere is also a spring in the window control switch (control you use to roll windows up/down) that could be worn and not working, you can just replace the whole switch.I just finished replacing the driver's side power window switch unit on my 1998 Monte Carlo. It took about 15 minutes, and if I knew what I was doing and had a bit more confidence, I could have done it in 3 minutes. It took me twice as long to make this post than it did to replace the switch.
+ Notice that the plastic trim piece around the switch has a little notch at the bottom (at the "six o'clock position", if you will) where that piece rests on top of the inside door panel. That notch is just big enough to insert a medium-sized flathead screwdriver, which is exactly what you will need to do to unsnap it out of place.
+ There is another, identical snap on the opposite side of this one (at the "twelve o'clock position"), but there is no notch for a flathead screwdriver.
+ What worked for me was to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the one screw behind the inside door handle, and then remove the plate behind the door handle (the power lock switch will come off as well as it is attached to this piece).
+ With the plate behind the door handle removed, I found it easier to can get at and release the other snap on the power window switch from the bottom.
+ With a little tugging, you can now lift the whole switch (and its faceplate) up from its cavity.
+ With a small flat head screwdriver, remove the wiring harness from the bottom of the switch.
+ With a tiny flat head screwdriver, remove the faceplate from the old switch (it snaps in 4 places).
+ Now, plug in the new switch, turn on the car, make sure it works, turn off the car, and put everything back the way you found it.
If I could have, I would have taken pictures and posted them here. I used the following site as a reference when I replaced the driver's side power window switch unit on my 1998 Monte Carlo:http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Grand-Prix-Window-Motor/index.HTML
The power window switch is GM Part number 88894538 and it fits 1996-1999 Monte Carlos. You cannot use a Camaro window switch, or a Beretta window switch, as those switches are located in the center console, and as such do not have a 3-way switch for the passenger window. You *might* be able to get away with a switch from a similar generation (1988-1996) W-Body Grand Prix, but it wasn't hard to find the genuine brand new part in March 2007. I bought a new switch from http://myworld.eBay.com/ebaymotors/conquestautomotive/ for the same price as a used one from a junkyard (although it took 7 days to arrive). This seller has their own web site (www.conquestauto.com) where they sell the same items at prices higher than their e-bay site. Makes no sense.
I would suspect the connections at the drivers door switch. Make sure they are tight and clean. Most switches can be removed without removing the door panel. Mark
1999 driver power window repair for Buick Century?
From what I've learned in the process of this repair, if your power window has stopped working, chances are that the part that's broken is the window regulator. It's a bar that runs up and down inside the door, with a sliding part on it that attaches to the window glass and moves up and down said bar. This assembly uses a kind of pulley system and has metal wire running all the way through it. The metal wire is attached to a gear wheel that locks into the window motor mechanism. If you can still hear the motor making noise, but the window won't move, It probably means the wire has snapped and is caught up in the gears. This is why the glass usually falls down into the door, because it has no more support. If you can't hear the motor working, you might have another problem. In my case, luckily, I was able to just replace the regulator without the motor. They are sold together or separately. Another possibility is that the window glass has somehow slipped off of the rubber track which wraps around the window on either end (horizontally) of the door, and guides it as it moves up and down. I'd imagine that would be a pretty easy fix, but would still involve taking the door all the way apart. So in either case, that is going to be your first step. Taking off the door panel: 1.Use a flat screwdriver to pop off the 3''x1'' oval bolt cover in the little pocket on the arm rest. Take out the bolts using a 10 mm socket. 2. Remove the screw that is located behind the door handle. 3. There are white plastic rivets inside of the door panel that attach it to the door. Starting in the lower left corner of the panel, pry under it with a flathead screwdriver until you can see one of the rivets. Pull firmly on that corner. Once you get one rivet out, work your way to the right, then up the right side, and then do the left side, saving the top for last. You DON'T have to waste time being delicate with these rivets, or prying each one with a screwdriver. Why? First, they are pretty durable. Second, they are cheap, and available at most auto part stores. Third, if you break one or two, the door panel will go back on just fine. I took this panel off and on 4 or 5 times while fixing the window, and towards the end, I was taking it off in about 15 seconds. When you get the rivets out of the left side, work the ones in the top corners (these will give the most resistance, since they are the last ones) and then the ones along the top should pop right out. Grab the inside door handle and move it out so that you can get panel free, and then move it out so you can see the wires attached to the electronics. This step will be a little tricky the fist time, but all I can say is have some faith. At first, this step was the biggest hurdle for me in attempting this repair, because I was afraid of breaking something. Don't let it slow you down too much.
4. Disconnect all the wire harnesses that go from inside the door to the electronic switches in the door panel. If you've messed with electronics/sound/computer systems before, this will be pretty easy. If not, spend some time looking at how the harnesses snap together. There is either a wedge that you have to hold down as you firmly pull on the connector to get it out, or a clip that simply must be lifted to get the connector free. There are 5 in all that must be disconnected. First do the one for the little speaker towards the top of the panel. Then, the big one that goes to the power locks. Then, you can probably flip the door upside down to make it easier to get to the ones for the windows and mirrors(the last 3). Congratulations! Once you've gotten the wires free, you can set the door panel to the side! You're about 1/3rd of the way done. Next, you must remove the faulty regulator by disconnecting the entire motor/regulator assembly. Don't worry, its not as hard as it looks. First, remove the large speaker in the bottom right corner and disconnect the wire harness. Next, peel the sheet of plastic off of the door, and as you do this, try to take as much of the black gunk that holds it on with it. This stuff is actually a pretty good adhesive. Its not as messy as it looks, and will stick to the metal just as good when you put it back on. Set the plastic to the side. Now you can look at the regulator. It's the assembly in between the two layers of the actual metal door frame. It consists of the 1.)Vertical Bar, the attached 2.)Window Bracket that runs up and down the vertical bar and is in turn attached to the 3.) Window Glass, the 4.)wire that runs throughout the assembly, and the 5.) Motor/Gear wheel assembly, which is held in place by a bracket just under and to the right of the inside door handle. Take a minute to inspect this entire assembly. If you trace the wire, you will most likely be able to find where it has snapped, and you have found your problem. If it hasn't snapped, it may have slipped off one of the wheels in the pulley system, but is most likely still tangled up in the gear wheel. You can now see that the regulator is bolted to the door in 3 places. 1. The motor assembly, under and to the right of the inside door handle. 2. At the top of the door under and to the left of the inside door handle 3. At the bottom of the door Time to remove the faulty regulator: Grab a screwdriver with a large star bit. Start at the Motor. Remove the three bolts that hold the Motor/Gear wheel bracket to the door frame. Now pull out the motor and undo the three bolts that hold together the gear wheel and the motor. You will feel some spring tension as you get to the last bolt. This is where you can see how the wire has become tangled in the gears, if that happens to be your problem. Once you have removed the plastic gear wheel, make sure to save the motor and the bracket. These will house your new regulator.
Next, at the top of the door, remove the metal piece that supports the arm rest. It is held on by a star bolt and a regular bolt. Next remove the third bolt that is to the left of that piece. Now raise the Window Glass to a level where you can detach it from its bracket. It's held on by a star bolt on either side of the Vertical Bar. Once you've done this, set the window glass all the way down inside the door. Lastly, remove the bolts that hold the regulator at the bottom of the door. It should be completely disconnected. Remove the regulator by turning it horizontally and taking it straight out, motor and all. Great! Now you're almost done! To install the new regulator: First, on your new regulator, observe where the wires are insulated, running from the motor to the top of the vertical bar. Notice that they criss-cross. This is the only way the motor fits back in the way it's supposed to, and apparently is part of the design. It may look weird, but from what I've read elsewhere, is correct. Now the new gear wheel should slide right in to the motor, and can be screwed back together. After that, attach the bracket to the Motor/Gear wheel assembly. Insert the entire regulator into the door, Motor first. Re-attach the motor bracket to the door. Now attach the vertical bar at the bottom of the door. To move the window bracket in a position where you can attach it to the window glass, you'll want to reconnect the wire to its switch on the door panel. I found it helpful to also prepare the window glass by propping it up, in a favorable position, using a wooden shim. **When you reattach the glass to the bracket, make sure that the glass is positioned to move freely into the rubber tracks of the window (the space where the glass sits when it is "up") If the glass doesn't reach the rubber track on the short side of the window when you are reattaching it, make sure that you compensate for this by guiding it in place when you go to put the window up. You may want to check this by reconnecting just the window controls from the door panel before you put the whole panel back on.
Once that's done, reattach the vertical bar and the arm rest support at the top of the door. Congratulations! You should now have a functioning power window! You can now replace the plastic and big speaker, and lastly put the door panel back on by popping the rivets in place and replacing the bolts and screw. You're done!
You are looking for the electrical diagram for power windows on a 1985 El Camino?
Maliburacing.com has by far the best wiring diagrams. (and oh yea they're free!)
How do you repair a power window on a Buick?
I own a 2002 Buick LeSabre with power windows. Within 1 week both back door windows came off the track (or part that raise 7 lowers them). I looked at the door and can't figure out how to start to remove the back door panel's to get at the inside of the door. I would like to fix this myself because I just got laid off and don't have the money for amechanic....Please Help. Is it possible for a handy layman to repair something like this. Thank you. JOE
Poor design makes this a fragile assembly The plastic slider will break at one of the ends of it's channel and the cable will just pull out. The two fingers that hold the slider onto the rail can also break. The cable can then get horribly tangled or bent inside the spool if the motor is run with the cable disconnected. If your slider is not broken, you can remove the entire regulator and motor by removing the axle pin holding the regulator to the window and then the 3 bolts that hold metal rail to the door.
Look at the slider where it holds the window. You will see a round piece of plastic near the top of the slider and centered horizontally. If you look closely, you can see that this axle has two pieces, an outer cylinder about 3/8" in diameter and a center cylinder pin of about 1/8". This little assembly is like an axle that goes through a hole in the window glass and gives the slider someting to grab.
Gently tap out the center plastic pin. This pin acts like a spreader to fatten the larger plastic cylinder and hold it in the hole in the window glass. I put a cloth in there to catch the pin as I push or pop it towards the outside door side of the window. Once it is removed, the plastic axle easily slides out toward or away from you. Once the axle is gone, the window and the regulator are no longer attached. You support the window to keep it from falling when you remove the 3 bolts holding the metal regulator rail. The entire regulator can now be removed from the car door.
The plastic slider can pop right off the rail on one side where you can bend a tab outward. Be careful not to break the two fingers on the other side that hold the slider on the rail. If nothing is broken, you can then check the cable and make sure it is wound properly on the spool. If not, you may have to take the motor off the rail with a torx driver and wind it back properly. You can hold it with a twist tie or something else you can remove once you get things back together. Put the rivet ends and their spring in the rectangular slot for them. Put the entire slider back on the rail and run the lifter cable over it's pully. The descender cable just uses gravity to slide down and up inside the door as necessary. Just reverse the process to put it all back together. Remember to put the spreader pin in from the back, not the front.
Now here's the rub: The assembly only comes as one unit. They are also very hard to find in junkyards. That means that if one tiny part breaks, it is $130 or more for the part.
How do you replace a rear window regulator on a 2002 Hyundai Accent?
The tools you will need:
A #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A Standard head screwdriver. A 10mm Socket and ratchet.
First take out all of the screws in the door panel. There is one in the handle that opens the door, and 2 in the door panel handle. Use the flat screwdriver to pop off the covers. Taking out the door handle is a little tricky. Slide it towards the front of the car and pull out. You might not get it the first try. Once you get the handle out enough, you will be able to see 2 metal rods connecting to it(towards the back of the car). Using the standard screwdriver, pull the plastic piece(either blue or red) towards you and it should unclip from the rod. Next, pick up on the rods and they should come out of the handle. Once all screws and the door handle are removed, you can take off the panel.
To remove the door panel, simply pull it off, starting at the bottom of the door and prying your fingers between the panel and the door. You will hear a series of pops. You didn't break anything. If it doesn't come fairly easy, don't pull too hard. You may have missed a screw. Once the panel swings freely on the window slot, get it close to the door and pick up, as the top rests in the window slot. If you have power windows, you will have to unclip the wires going to the switch.
Once the panel is off, drop the window and remove the 2 Phillips screws holding the window on the track. After the window is off, tape it up so it is out of your way. Next, take the socket and remove the 3 nuts holding the window motor, (towards the front of the car, in the middle), and then the three(maybe four) that hold the metal track in place. Once those are off, good luck getting out the hole in the bottom of the door. It will not free fall in the door as the stud screws are attached to the motor and regulator. You will also have to disconnect the motor wire. Once it is out of the door, there are 3 screws or bolts that hold the motor to the regulator. take those out and the motor should slide off easily. Then do it in reverse to put it back together.
Which fuse controls the power windows in a 1992 Camry?
I had a short in my power window harness on the driver's side and I found the answer online so I'll pass it on. There is a pal fuse that controls the power windows located directly under the steering wheel. Remove the panel under the steering wheel and you should see among other things a black plastic vent that passes are up to the vent to the left of the steering wheel. That has to be pulled away but just enough to get to the fuse. On the left end of this vent is a black plastic "button" looking clip that should just pop out with a screw driver. Now the vent will pull out and away but try to keep it connected at the right end so you don't have to mess with reconnecting it too. As you pull the vent out, you will see the pal fuses in a box. I don't remember for sure which one it is but I believe it is the pink one on the right. Take a flash light and you should be able to look into the window on top of the fuse and see if it is blown. These fuses just pull out and are a breeze to replace. This all may sound difficult but its really not and only takes a few minutes. I went to a local junkyard and practiced on their cars and then tried it on my car. I actually took the pal fuses from the junk car and used them in mine.
If your window just works in one direction it is probably the switch. Try cleaning it with contact cleaner and rock it back and forth multiple times. You can get the window up by pulling apart the connector in the door panel and turning it around with jumper wires so pin 1 goes to 2 and 2 goes to 1. Then press the down button.
