Electric Windows

Remove the inside door panel. The entire window mechanism will be visible. Put the window back onto the window track.

You have a problem in one of two places most likely. The switches contacts get worn most often on the driver side and the switch may need replaced or the motor in the door may need replaced. You would have to pull the door panel off and sometimes these motors are difficult to get out. They usually run 40 to 50 dollars at auto zone. If none of these is the problem try a hammer to the window (just kidding).

the wire harness between the doors/chassis always brakes or craks from opening/closing the doors

I found this link with p/n's and pictures along with instructions that appear to be generic to all types of vehicles.

tyclone.com

I've had this problem on a couple of old cars. Believe it or not, my boyfriend simply poured rubbing alcohol on the switch (the one that makes the window go up and down) and the windows worked again. He said it cleaned out the "schmutz." whatever, it worked - and it's a cheap thing to try! No need to remove panels or anything else. You can pry up the switch first and hold it away from the door while pouring if you don't want to spoil the leather or fabric.

On most ford or mercury models if you don't use the window often it will stop working. so all you have to do is guess about were you think the window motor is located and hit the door fairly hard with your hand and it should start working. I used to work at a body shop and I saved probably 100 people money with that little trick.

Hate to say it, but the most likely cause us a worn motor. It will kick the breaker off repeatedly. Remedy is not for the failt of heart, but entirely within the perview of weekend mechanics. Replace the drive motor (and regulator, probably). Get lotsa beer and some sympathetic help.

Its probably your window motor. Too hard for the average person to replace- see a mechanic!

I found mine ('90 626) started shuddering. Obviously a lube problem, my mechanic suggested Graphite Powder. Didn't work. Mechanical Oil worked for less than a week.

what worked was....

ARMOR ALL!!!!!

Brilliant. Slides like a dream for months!

I don't see this response: I spent a few hours learning the hard way that there is, on some cars, a children's window lock switch in the drivers compartment that cuts off power to the rear windows. You don't say which window don't function or if it will roll up. So - if it is off - you can't roll the back windows. RE: 1988 Ford WAgon

The easy answer is that you can take it apart and do a quick fix to get you by but it will need replacement no matter what. A new one is about a hundred dollars. If all is quiet then the relay for the window motor is bad or even the fuse could be bad.

After you remove all of the screws you can find, there are plastic clips all around the door which you need to pull out. It takes a "J" shaped tool with a "V" in the end to get under the clips and pull them out. They are pretty tough. Don't just pull on the pannel as you will destroy the it.

On my 1993 the window motor would torque down too far, and the brushes would come off of the armature. Replace the motor, or carefully disassemble and reassemble. The later allows window useage as long as you don't roll the window down all the way again.

I've posted this on other car repair sites. This is my recollection of changing my power windows on my 97 SE. Good luck!

I started by taping the window to the window frame using packing tape. I have tinted windows so I put the tape on the outside of the window and over the doorframe. Put something between the tape and the rubber trim, the tape will leave residue on that. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the window to the regulator. Disconnect the wire harness at the top of the motor. Then drill out the four big rivets, starting with a 1/8 inch then 1/4 inch bits. I used Craftsman Zirconium Nitride Coated Drill Bits. Go slow and shoot a little WD-40 to help, it takes a while to get them out. When the last rivet falls out, the regulator will collapse so mind your fingers. Try not to make the actual hole in the metal any bigger that it already is. Then remove the two bolts that go to the bottom of the regulator. The whole assembly will now slide out one of the big holes in the sheet metal, and no, you don't need to cut any metal. You can buy the motor with a new regulator already assembled, or just the motor. I got just the motor on eBay for $40. There are cheaper ones but I wanted a good one. If you just get the motor, you'll have a little more work. Drill out the four rivets holding it on to the regulator. You can either rivet the new one on or just use four small machine screws, that's what I did. It won't hurt to put a little grease in the tracks now either. Slide the whole assembly back in and attach the two bottom bolts then the two that hold the window to the regulator. Attach the wire harness and power the motor back and forth until one of the holes that you removed the rivets from is in alignment with the holes in the new motor. Now the tough part, getting the fat little bolts in those holes and getting a nut on it. I think I used 1/4 X 3/4 inch bolts. I got them at Home Depot. If you want to spend the money, you can get the big rivets and a big rivet gun, but I didn't think it was worth it. I've had the one window in for over a year with just the 3 bolts and it's holding fine. You can only access 3 holes in the motor if you're using bolts to attach it. If while drilling out the rivets you made the holes bigger, you may need to use a washer. Get one in, then power the motor a little at a time until the other holes are lined up and get at least three bolts in. Get them as tight as you can using locking nuts. Try putting the bolt in from either direction to see which way works best. The first time I did this, it took me over 4 hours. The second window, 90 minutes. Now you can go through the drive thru again.

smokingallowed say's...make sure it is the motor and not the switch...If the motor works going down, it should work going up...think about it....plastic parts inside the switch melt.

The complete headliner must be removed to gain access to the motor.All interior trim around the headliner must be removed including the dome light. Push the front seats back and recline them to allow the headliner to come out the front door. BE CAREFUL not to bend the headliner because it cannot be repaired if cracked. Motor replacement can be done after the headliner is out. WARNING : This is not a job for most amateurs. You may want to see your dealer before attempting this job. Good Luck. Just replaced my motor on a 99 sc2. took all of 20 min!!!! three bolts and two electical connectors. easy going in and easy coming out. lithium white grease ($3.29 from auto zone) on the tracks and it works like a champ. Simply remove the visors, center lights and sunroof switch cover and center dome light. the headliner simply snaps down minus the velcro! Didnt even take the headliner completely off, just the front. Dont have to be a genius just careful with the headliner.

Because the oil drys up in all the joints

Check your fuses.

Hold the window buttons on the door and fully open the windows, Hold the button for approx 15 secs until you here a bleep. Repeat holding the buttons to close the windows fully and hold for a further 15 secs until the bleep is heard. This should reset the windows

Wrong. There is no beep. Close the doors driver and pass. Engage the windows fully up. Turn ignition to on without starting the engine. Allow 10 secs for computer to reset the windows. Turn ignition off and remove key. Return key and try windows. Same thing happened to me after windows where iced up.

Did not get a chance to register yet - so it's anonymous. Anyway:

Neither of previous answers agrees with the manual for my '00 XK8 (unless '99 differs). The manual states:

Ignition on. Drop window fully down, hold extra 5 sec. Raise window fully up, hold button extra 5 sec. Repeat for other window.

Now, if you are losing your programming (windows, memory seats, etc.), forums agree that this is an early sign of failing battery. Drops voltage when starting engine and thus loses settings.

Good luck, Robert.

"If everything else fails, read the manual."

Some people like me have lost their manual (following a theft)! Manuals are now out of print for my model.

The above (hold-down for 5 seconds) works for my 2000 XKR. In fact you only need to hold the window operation button down for about 2-3 seconds until you hear a slight muffled click, at which point you can release the button. Im sure XKRs and XK8s will be the same.

When your battery dies completely you need to know this. In such a circumstance it is also useful to know that you can get inside the boot (trunk) manually via a keyhole in between the K and R letters on the XKR logo on the back panel of your car. I presume it also works between the K letter and 8 digit on the XK8. Even the Automobile Association car rescue man did not know that and had to inject some power by power-boosting under the bonnet to get access to the boot and thereby the battery. An XKR owning friend later told me how I could have avoided that call-out!

Jaguar experts seem to have answered this question fully, but when i first read it, i thought it was similar to the Audi TT. These are relatively small inside, and the air pressure could cause the doors to bounce back when closing. The cure is to drop the window a little as the door is unlocked, then raise it again after closing.

Clean switch.Check motor.Relay in door goes out hot weather it will not work.If you hit door panal sometimes it will work!

Use a test light to see if the motor is getting power. If it is then motor is bad.

If it is not getting power "jump" the wires on the switch to see if window will operate, is so switch is bad

yes u can u need wiring the window regulator some fuses for your fuse box and an ex door panel and your set

try to unbolt bottom of glass that mounts to the window regulaer track. take door panel offwhile key is on bang window with rubber or nylon mallot this can free up motor some times

The 04 is common for a broken wire behind the door panel...usually when it comes out of the door and goes through the hinge area

undo your door panle remove the to nuts that hold the window on the rail Slide Rail Back Put Window Downward Angle Pull The Window Out It Will Come Out Easy

Hi, I had a commodore VR and one of the power windows did not work after awhile. It operated with a button on the middle console that leads to the electric motor for the winder? I had to buy a new button from Holden and it was connected by an auto electrican. I think it is about $100 au to buy the part then I had it installed. Aparently the buttons (electrics to the winder( wear out eventually. Not sure if this helps?

You must replace the entire regulator.

Here's how

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/window-power-repair/replace-a-power-window-regulator

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual for 1996 and newer ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online

replace a window lift motor for a 2002 gmc sierra?

Trouble code P1698 means: No CCD Messages Received From The TCM

Hello, Jamison here, There is A pressure sensor in the system, It is detecting that the window motor is working too hard, It is automatically rolling the window down to let you clear the opening,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I take it the opening is CLEAR,,,, So, you have A damaged track (like A kid climbing through and pushing down on the glass, which may have bent the track),,, OR you have A dirty spot on the FELT that is making the glass stick to it, and making it too difficult to go up.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, BE CAREFUL, I will tell you how to test it!,,, Have someone roll up the glass while you help it up, If it goes all the way up and DOES NOT make popping sounds then you have A obstruction, If it pops, Then its A damaged track,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Good luck, Jamison.

how do i fit new windows in the front & back of my 328I convertable E36

IT IS MOUNTED BY RIVETS. YOU MUST DRILL THEM OUT

They should be in your fuse box. You need to get a check light and check all your fuses and replace any that are blown. Sincerely Willie Window motors are powered by the "Accessory" circuit. Most likely it is protected by a 30Amp circuit breaker, not a fuse. It is located in the fuse panel in the slot marked "ACC". It looks like a fuse but has a metal case.