Electric Windows

The majority of these motors are held in with large rivits that have to be drilled out, then either put back in with rivits or small bolts and nuts but it sometimes is hard to get behind the motor and bracket to hold the nut, I`ve welded the nuts on the back of the unit. to get to the motor you have to take the door panel off it could be held on a bunch of different ways, screws hedden behind plastic covers or they might be out in the open, or going through the door pull. Then there is usually some plastic "clips" that go around the primiter of the door. they will pop out,there is a special tool made for these but if you use a putty knife and carefully pry next to them you might be able to gradualy work them out, ther will be several of these depending how large the door. Be carful not to on pull electic wires as you take the panel off, you may have to unplug some. Everything I have written here applies to most door panels and widow motors It may not apply to all but most Iv`e worked on! Good Luck. Mark, 12/23/05

First get the Chiltons for the Jeep. you have to drill out three rivits and disconnect it from the window track. then disconnect the electrical plug then pull out the motor. Keep in mind that when you put a new one in that you are going to have to bolt it in because the rivits will be gone.

it could be that your relay is stuck on. your passat windows can be lowered or raised when car is off.

sometimes is the main control that is bad

The window linkage broke on my 94 Trooper months after I bought it in August, 2005. Of course, to get new links I had to buy a whole new track and motor which would have been more expensive than the whole truck! (Not really. . .but I really didn't want to spend that kind of money!) So instead, I purchased some aluminum bracketing wire that plumbers use to hang pipes from rafters. (it comes in a roll that unwinds and bends easily.) I cut a 3-4 inch piece of this to replace each of the old brackets. I bolted one end into the track. I bent the other end into a "V" shape so the window could rest in it. Then I poured the strongest glue I could find around the "V" so it would adhear to the glass. This worked for 7 months before the glue broke. So just today I made new brackets and used the strongest velcro I could find to adhear the glass to the jimmy-rigged brackets. This is working again, but I am unsure of the longevity. The whole thing probably cost less than $10, even for the two repairs. Better than $300+ for a new motor just to get the brackets!

passenger window does not work getting power when i press the switch getting power on both sides of wire tested motor works

were is the fuse for driver power window 2001 lincoln town car

Check the fuse and if it is good then you will have to do some troubleshooting. Can be a bad switch or bad motor.

You have to purchase the powerwindow switch plate from somewhere like Autozone (about $100). Then with a very small flat tool, open the switchplate cover. Carefully remove the old burned out switch (remember where the plugs go - a red one and a white one I believe). Line up the new switch. Insert the new red and white plugs into the "outlets" on the car door switchplate (hard to explain but once you have it open and removed, you will understand). Insert the switchplate into the switchplate holder. Close the cover and you are done. It costed me about $150 the first time it burned out (with labor charges). The second time my husband and I replaced it for the cost of the switchplate only in about 5 minutes... if that. Good luck!

if it's not electric it probably fell off the track

Place the regulator in position and engage to the guide channel.Secure the regulator to the door (you may have to plug it in and lower the window the slightest bit to get it to line up)with rivets and a rivet tool.(you can use small screws but they can work their way loose so I don't recommend it) If the regulator won't line up, use the switch and let the window down slightly. Plug in electrical connector if you didn't already. Tighten all the channel nuts nd reinstall the door panel.

Not 100% sure on the passenger side, But on the drivers side you simply take a flat (common) screwdriver and gently pry up the front and back ends of the black switch base. There are two clips that keep the switch base in place, if enough upward pressure is applied the whole base sould come right up. Then you can access all of the wires underneath.

Seems like the "rod" that pushes the window up is broken. Now I'm not an expert but the "rod" may not be an actual sturdy rod it can be a belt or beads; yes beads like on a chain, or someother material you'll have to go to see what type of "push rod" you have then simply replace it. Once you are brave enough to CAREFULLY remove the power window (pw) unit you will realise how simple the pw is to repair yourself. Once you can change a tyre you can change the 'push rod" yourself the hardest part is the removal of the door panel. Good luck.

has anyone replaced the relay switch?

Blown fuse?

Breaking this question into the 2 primary components: how to remove the door panel - and - how to replace the window motor.

Both are well covered in the "Related Questions" below

I had this problem, spent a fortune on new regulators and even a motor before I realized that the problem was in the switch. For some reason, the switch (only the driver's side front window) would make the window go down when pressed up or down, and when you try to make it go up, nothing but a "clicking" sound.

Apparently, the problem is some kind of alignment in the switch. I am not a mecahnic, but I found that if I carefully hammered the switch down along the edge from top to bottom, it would eventually "catch" and then would work properly again. Eventually, the condition would re-occur, and I would do it again. Sometimes it worked for a few days, sometimes for a few months. So there is definitely a problem in the switch. Don't pay for new regulators, motors, or other parts for this problem. Apparenlty, the techs do not know about this condition. If you do go for repair, carefully explain the problem and what I told you above, otherwise they think the problem is with the hardware inside the door. Or try my method, which solves the problem, but not if you are anal about the cosmetics inside the car.

Hi,

If you are referring to the main power window switch, on the driver's side, it is relatively easy to replace. As a matter of fact, I just replaced the same switch on my van (the window would not come back up).

First, you need to use a screwdriver, or stiff putty knife, to lift the back of the switch panel and release the clip. Slide the putty knife under the panel and push in to release the clip while you gently lift the panel up. Once the back comes up, rock and wiggle the panel so that it comes out of the door.

You will see the switch "block" at the back of the control panel. You will have to release the cable retainer by pushing in and then pull the connector out.

Use the putty knife to slide under the plastic retainers that hold the switch block to the panel. At that point the switch will come out. Then its just a matter of putting in the new switch by reversing the whole process.

I have included a link that shows the panel lifted from the door and the switch block in place.

Good Luck, Greg

On most cars it just pries out of the door handle. Be careful not to break it.

These are absolutely Notorious for having a bad Distributor cap on The 4.3 engine. But because of the way its built you cant see the problem or test it without an old stylree "Ignition Scope"

The Rotor can also cause your symptoms.

There is an 90% chance that Cap and Rotor will fix it.

Do a fuel pressure test and replace the fuel filter while you're at it.

If the cap, rotor and fuel pressure check okay, the catalytic converter may be semi-plugged/damaged. The mass air flow sensor should be tested also.

If the check engine light is illuminated, investigate the code(s).

Is your ignition wire hooked up to your distributor? 1.This small pink wire hooks into the top left part of the distributor marked "BAT" Is your battery fully charged? Is your starter wired up correctly? 1.The 2 skinny red wires and the + battery cable wire go to the big terminal on the starter. 2.The skinny purple wire goes to the small "S" terminal on the starter. Make sure the - battery cable is grounded correctly.Hope this helps you.

I have a 1992 Lincoln town car none of the windows work but you can hear the motors winding i open the motors and replace the platic plugs three in each now they work great cost about 3 to 5 dollards. from eBay . Labor wow a lot of work

If there is any of the window up and you can grab it you can pull it up and then with both hands, one on each side, push the window up. If it is completely down you can't do it. How about removing the power window switch and either replacing it or wire around it long enough to get the window up.

shooting it will only brake it more...i suggest pushing the button