Electric Windows

My guess would be the window motor about $60 +/-

This worked for me too. I had the whole door apart - and was just about to take it in to a repair shop. A bit of alchohol and the window came up!

Holy Crap. It worked. I didnt want to believe it but i tried it and Bam the window came up. I was pessimistic at first but I was desperate so i gave it a try. Thank you to the guy that came up with this.

My son's 1992 Volvo has same window problem. I tried the alcohol but no go. I was about to take the door panel off when I decided to just pop the switch panel off instead. It came right out. From there I simply switched the wires with a working switch and got the window back up. The switch is still broke but hey, the window was up in 5 minutes time.

The alcohol trick above just worked on my 1986 BMW 325i. I'm amazed -- repairs of this sort should be difficult, expensive, and humiliating. Thanks, first author!

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From a Rover 800 owner (these cars are similar to the 1998 Honda Legend)

There must be some VERY LUCKY people out there who have very basic window controllers. The slightly more luxurious cars have complicated locking and alarm control boxes. With these if you lock-up the car with the windows and sunroof open everything closes by itself (or it should do if the system works properly) Nowadays the window motors have tacho-generators built into them. This tells the "brain" how fast the window is going. If the window is not closing fast enough the "brain" assumes something must be trapped so it reverses the motor. This is excellent for babies who always seem to be getting stuck in the windows! (some babies have been killed by car electric windows which did not have adequate safety features) What is another problem is that the windows have to be "calibrated" if the car battery has gone flat or has been changed. The windows will not work properly until they have been fully calibrated and one-touch-up or one-touch-down will not be available until after calibration. Incidentally this window palaver can be so stressful that it might be handy to have a couple of 100 gram bars of chocolate or a few beers handy. (Also remove all ropes from the work area in case the owner feels like hanging himself) On old cars the "brain" can "think" that something is trapped in the window if the grease in the mechanism has dried-out and this can prevent the windows going up. On this window palaver the battery should be be beyond reproach and fully charged (A bad battery was the cause of an interminable problem on a friends Porsche 924 that would crank very well indeed but would rarely start - YUK!)

I regret to say that on my spare car all four windows will go down but not up! It is hardly likely that FOUR motors or SEVEN switches have suddenly gone wrong so it must be something else. Often dry-joints in the fuse-box can be a problem but the soldering on this one looks perfect. Some cars have two fuses for the window motors as "UP" needs more current than "DOWN". Some cars have thermal trips in the power lines and if all four motors are operated together, the current trip may function. On the old Audi 100 the reset buttons are above the front passengers feet. It is worth knowing this as if one drives to a city and cannot close the windows the car is likely to get burgled.

It would be a good idea for car makers to provide an access-point to the window winders so that the windows could be wound by hand or with a power drill as these faults can be enough to drive a strong man to drink.

Burned switch contacts are easy to find but on a modern system there will usually be a lot more too it than that.

Good luck!

Here is how I changed my power window motor and regulator with pictures:

(clickable "Related Link" below)

http://sites.Google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home

Sidebar: Let's hear a round of applause for D0gB0one! If you benefit from his how-to guide, recommend him and add a note to this page's Discussion.

Autozone has motors alone $45-75, regulator plus motor combinations are $70

All are remanufactured units

1995-1998 Windstar - Engine compartment fusebox / distribution center: fuse letter "G"

1999-2003 Windstar - fuse #'s 106 (passenger side) and 113 (drivers side) in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox control the power window motors.

The above information was referenced in the respective OWNERS MANUAL.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

***I tried the above tapping the motor suggestion (what did I have to lose--didn't think it could be so simple) and THANK YOU VERY MUCH! It worked for my 2001 Windstar.****

***Ditto!! I tried the tapping on the motor solution and the motor sprang to life! This just saved me anywhere from $70 for motor alone to $150+ to have the motor replaced. Thanks again!!!!!

****Double ditto! The hammer tap worked the trick. Thank you for the very good advice

I just replaced the LF window motor / regulator on our 2001 Windstar.

Here are the basic steps it took me to get the new motor / regulator assembly installed.

NOTE: The window doesn't have to come out for this repair.

Remove inside door panel -

1. remove plastic corner piece - it snaps out, a clip and tab hold it in place.
2. remove lock stem.
3. remove plastic fascia piece around door handle, it also snaps out, single clip and tab.
4. remove 5 panel screws (7mm), 2 at base, 2 in arm rest, and 1 in upper corner, where the corner piece was.

   The door panel can now be lifted off some plastic molded hooks that hold it on the frame.

   1. there are 3 wiring quick disconnects that need disconnecting from window/lock switches on the arm rest
   2. The courtesy light needs to be rotated out from the panel as well.
5. As you work the panel loose from the door:
6. Remove the foam from door frame.
7. You should also remove the speaker - the hole it vacates is useful for working on the regulator / assembly replacement

Now, the regulator is held in place by 4 rivets and threaded stem & nut and 2 tabs. With the panel and foam removed, you can easily see them. It is also attached by rivets to the window in 2 places at the bottom of the window. And, it is attached to a guide bar across the large opening in the frame.

The guide bar needs to be removed first. Remove the 2 nuts (11mm) that attach it to the frame and it can be worked off the regulator assembly and out of the opening.

Then, The rivets need to be drilled out, the 4 in the door frame and the 2 holding the window to the regulator assembly., the window rivets can be a pita - I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel. Before starting the rivet removals, I used duct tape to hold the window up in place. But once the guide bar, 4 frame rivets, and stem nut are removed, the whole thing, window and all can be moved up/down in the door frame - and need to be to get at the rivets that attach the window to the regulator assembly. Move the window to a place so that you can get to the attaching rivets, you'll obviously have to loosen the tape to do so but then tape it where it works for getting at the window rivets (the pita part of this job).

Once the window rivets are removed, the regulator assembly can be removed through the large opening in the frame. New one goes in as old came out. Attach window to it - I used nuts/bolts, short enough to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. Not too tight, need the bushings to move as window goes up/down. Now - the new regulator assembly i got was slightly different in that the threaded stem was about 1/2" forward of the old one - so the hole the stem goes through had to be opened up toward the front of the van about 1/2" (turned it into a slot). With some time, a few choice words, and patience, the stem and tabs can be put in place in the frame and the new regulator assembly reattached to the frame. Again, I used nuts/bolts and couldn't replace the 2 inner rivets because of space constraints. I figured that the tabs, stem and 2 that I could replace could do the job of holding it in place.

Then, replace things as they came off. Don't for get the courtesy light and quick connects!

I've had to replace both assemblies and I was informed of a shortcut (after my first replacement job) that allows the replacement without having to remove the rivets...

once you have the door cover and foam removed look for two small divets/dents located in the area of the four rivets. Once you locate them drill them out with at least a 1/2" drill bit. Right behind the new holes are the two nuts holding the regulator in place. remove the two nuts and remove the regulator then reverse the procedure to put the new regulator in place.

Removing the door panel is the easy part. A redesign of the regulator means that a new motor will not fit on the old original 2001 regulator. Not only are the mounting holes different but so is the electrical connector. You could perhaps find an old motor at the junk yard but it will most likely fail just like the original design. There are six rivets. Two hold the window to the regulator and four hold the regulator to the door. The new regulator requires you enlarge one of the mounting holes. The difficult part for me was the window being riveted to the regulator. I did not want to drill out the rivets on the window and did not have a rivet gun that could handle a 1/4" rivet. Most homeowner rivet guns are for 3/16" and smaller rivets. The door rivets can be replaced with short 1/4" bolts. After many hours and hassles with wrong parts I opted to take the vehicle to an auto glass business and gave them a new regulator/motor assembly ($87 from Ford). Depending on how nice the glass people are it is still cheaper than having Ford do it. If you have the correct tools and rivets plus don't mind working with the glass it can be done at home.

I just removed mine by drilling 1/2" holes in the metal door over the two 5/16" nuts that hold the gear assembly to the regulator(there were dimples in the door above each nut). That allowed me to remove those two nuts. Then the third fastener was a bolt that projected through the door, which could be removed with a 5/32" socket on the torx type bolt head.Once those three nuts were removed the gear assembly fell away from the regulator without having to touch the glass or remove the regulator.

First you remove the back window corner panel. It pulls right off. Then you pop off the black cover from around the handle. There is a screw on the top holding the panel on , remove screw and remove the screws at the bottom of the panel and lift off panel. Roll plastic down. Drill out the 3 rivets holding the motor in place and remove bolts to swing motor to opening. Install in reverse order .Bolt new motor in place. Be careful with spring inside door can cut you use gloves, and watch out for window track, it locks into place.

Remove the door panel first,and the inside cover you'l see three pilote holes drill these out with a 1/2 inch bit this will expose the three small bolts holding the motor remove them with a small ratchet unplug the motor and replace.

To check the motor remove the door trim panel, disconnect electrical connector at motor, using a test light put one end of light into one side of connector and other end into other side of connector, (install light in place of motor), activate window up/down switch, if light illuminates change the motor, if not you have a wiring problem.

I am having the same problem as you are with my 95 Windstar but my windows work intermitantly. First thing I would do is check the fuses. There are separate fuses for driver and passenger windows. If this isn't the problem then I would check the relays for the windows. They might be sticking or something. You can buy new ones from NAPA for about $7 each.

I personally try the cheap approach first. If this isn't the answer, then get a tester and see if you have power to the window motor. If you do have power when the door switch is activated, then you have a bad motor. I would then recommend that a dealer replace because glass breaks easily.

Also Try this!!!

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Remove the door trim panel. Pull off plastic cover. Unplug the regulator. Position glass by hand until you can remove rivets from door glass. Tilt glass and lift out. Drill out all the rivets holding the regulator in. Remove regulator. Install new regulator. Rivet new regulator. Reinstall glass. Rivet glass to regulator. Plug in regulator.

I have a 1995 Windstar and the passenger power window kept getting stuck and wouldn't come down for weeks at a time,then it would work. I pulled off the door panel there are 1 or 2 screws by the arm rest you need to unscrew,then pull off the electrical connector for the power mirror,locks and window.first check if you have power to the switch with a test light,if yes then switch looks ok,then pull off the connector to the power motor ,put the window switch back together.if test light goes on at the connector when you press the power window switch,power is making it to the motor.To remove the motor you have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor to the door,remove the connector then to replace you have to drill out the rivet holes to a larger size cause you have to replace them with bolts to put the nw motor in. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE OLD MOTOR try hitting the old motor with a hammer not very hard to damage but give it a good hit,because some times the gears bind and that's why the power window doesn't work even when you have power to the motor. It's a pain in the @#$# to change that motor,the the hammer first. I chg the motor then afterward found out the motor was still good. The gears were binding that's why the window would work sometimes and sometimes not. See "Related Questions" below for more

TAke it to a garage and have them do a wet and dry compression test on it and listen for unusual noises.

Worked for me on 1999 Windstar, Thanks!

Just want to say thanks to all for posting the detailed instructions! I generally limit repairs to things I can do with a can of spray lube and an adjustable wrench. What I feared might blow my whole Sunday afternoon was done in under an hour to reinstall ( i.e. after I determined it was the motor, and had the partl). Wife was totally impressed!

$61 US for full motor-regulator assembly at Advanced Auto in Arlington, VA.

I followed the written and the images shown at

http://sites.google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home.

Thanks for taking the time to add detail

Excellent suggestion to NOT remove the channel connected to the window, but rather bend the small metal stops and sliding the nylon rollers out. With this method, you'll need to do the same to remove the channel from the new regulator / motor before installing. This is basically a good 'dry run' for what you need to do for the existing channel inside the door.

I had some trouble sliding the existing nylon rollers out of the window channel because there was a small screw from the nylon clamp holding the window. A slight pry with a screwdriver got it past. The replacement nylon slides are much narrower (perhaps for this reason) and insert easily without hitting this screw.

Duct tape was also a great idea. My window was stuck in the up position. During the install, I needed to lower to about ½ way down get the new motor to line up with the holes and everything put together and tested. Duct tape made this easy to adjust and avoided the need to have a 3rd hand, which was not readily available.

You may have bad motors. They can be replaced. Replacements can be found at your local parts store and even places like Best Buy(any place that does car stereo installation has this part also) then simply take the door panel of and replace the motor.......

Might be the GEM module. I had to replace the fused box and GEM module when mine did that. My wipers quit working as well. Faulty winshild installation cased water to short them out.

Fuse #14

I just replaced the regulator motor in my daughters 2000 Grand Prix. I am no everyday mechanic or weekend mechanic for that mater. I pulled off the door panel by removing the two small torque screws behind the inside door handle. You will find them by popping out the two little plastic plugs that hide the holes. Remove the window controls by pushing up not pulling up from the bottom to free the controls. Remove the connectors by using a screw driver to push the clip in to release.

Use anything real flat (Putty knife) to slide between the door and the inside of the panel until you find the plastic retainer plugs, pry the panel gently away from the door popping out the plugs.

Remove the panel and plastic dust cover stuck to the door which you may have to cut a little. Now all you have to do is remove bolts that hold the regulator and motor in and unplug the motor. They are all the same size bolts and two that are connected to the window itself. Push the window up in place and tape so it stays up... replace the regulator motor (Got mine on Amazon.com) Now put everything back together.. Took me about an hour.

Good luck.

http://rmcgp.clubgp.com/windowmotor.html