Ford Escape XLT

Cars, motorcycles, and lawnmowers. motor boat, generator, tractor, airplane, truck

According to the 2008 Ford Escape Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.3 liter four cylinder engine takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 )

The 3.0 , V6 ( 6.0 quarts )

1) remove Wheels 2) Loosen Caliper mounting bolts 3) Remove one caliper mounting bolt completely 4) Re-install 2 lug bolts to hold disk in place 5) swing caliper either up or down depending on which caliper bolt you have removed 6) use "c" clamp or similar tool to retract piston in caliper 7) install new pads 8) re-install caliper bolts 9) re-install wheel

check all pinswitches including tailgate ciruit and rear of headlight switch for melting Done the above: no results. Opening & closing the doors at random solves the problem for a while. I have removed all the lights under the dash to avoid a battery drain, done by the previous owner at 40K. On my own, I have cut into the dome light circuit so one of the switches cuts out the light when not deasired. The "door adjar" light still comes on but I can shut off the overhead light. Simetimes it works by factory specs, but not often

Tools needed - 24" long 3/8" drive, 18mm socket, 12" extension for the socket, Jack stands w/ 2 bricks, Hydraulic jack, 2x4 wood, 12" long, An xtra hand for about 10 minutes 1/2 to 3/4 hour of time Complexity level - 5-7 out of 10 Patience factor - 6 out of 10 Best advice - Go to a mechanic unless you are one (guess you are not if you're here...) Anyway, the belt itself is very easy to get off - the belt tensioner toward the back of the motor on the passenger side can easily be pushed / pulled with a 3/8" socket drive, if you have one that is about 24" long. If your wrench is shorter, a 2' pipe would be useful. Now we have the belt off the pulleys, but getting it off the car and putting the new belt on is a bit more involved. The path the belt follows on it route is all the way around the passenger side motor mount. The tactic I used to manage this was to put the front of the car on jack stands (make sure you put bricks behind the back wheels). Then I put my hydraulic jack under the engine to support it. I used a 2x4 block of wood about 12" long running cross ways. Jack the block up to the bottom of the engine. The area it rests on is the oil pan so be very careful. Make sure the wood is resting solidly against the bottom of the motor, because next you will loosen (but not completely remove) the bolts holding the motor from the mount on the passenger side of the car. The bolts to loosen will be the ones closest to the motor on the mount. They are also the most accessible, I think they are 18mm heads. After I created about 1/2 to 1" slack in the bolts, but not taken them out, I let the jack down slightly. If it ends up resting on the bolts, so much the better... the engine will stay aligned with the mount during the next step. You will have created a gap of about 1" that the belt can be worked through, but the motor mount bolts are still in the way. Make sure the jack is again able to support the motor and once your comfortable that the engine is supported, you can remove the motor mount bolts the rest of the way. Now you have a channel to work the belt through. The rubber side of the mount itself can be pushed back a bit to give you more room to pass the belt through on the way out and the way back in. I worked the belt off, through the 1/2" really narrow channel and put the new belt on through the same narrow path. I then put the motor mount bolts back in and tightened them down all the way. Getting the belt to follow the proper pulley path was not a big deal, but I need 3 hands, my girlfriend really did help out here. It'll sound pretty wierd, but I;ll do my best to explain the path - there is a diagram on the belt shroud on the top of the motor - if yours has not been knocked off by an errant belt; mine was, but I found it and repaired it with epoxy. Start at the bottom front and around the bottom middle drive pulley. Wind around the top front and let her hold it with a bit of tension at the top front. You now have to work it around the bottom back pulley to the front middle pulley on your way to the tensioner toward the back of the motor. Once I had it this far, pulling the tensioner far enough back and getting it on the rest of the pulleys was a snap. Hope this helps... the ear;lier answer was juuuust a bit incomplete with about a paragraph or two of instruction. The task took me about 2 hours - 1 1/2 hour of figuring all the stuff I just shared with you out and about 1/2 hour of real work, including setting the jack stands and cutting a fresh piece of 2x4 wood.

After opening the bonnet you will see behind the actual lights two "caps" on either side. They look and feel like like rubber lids. Lift larger one (or far left if replacing left bulb and far right for right bulb) to replace main headlight bulb. It is good practice to replace both main bulbs together. Indicator.... for anyone interested is way over to left side for left or right side for right. It is down lower than others and is a grey cylinder that twists out to take replacement bulb. By the way, I found all this out while trying to change my parking bulb .....which I still haven't managed to do so I would appreciate any help on this one!! Thanks

The 2005 Toyota Avalon has front wheel drive.

Remove wheels
Pound out 2 sliding pins on the upper and lower side of the caliper
Slide caliper off rotor
Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body
Replace brake pads inner and outer
Slide caliper onto rotor
Pound sliding pins back into caliper
PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

There are many causes to this problem, in a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0L. It is usually caused by a spark plug firing when its not suppose to, or late/delayed timing.

You can but it is not a good swap as you are going to a tire that is 3.09% larger and you should never go over 3%. To keep everything equal and you want to go to a 75 series tire you would need to install a 215/75-16 which is an excellent substitute.

I had the Nissan dealer cut some keys when I gave them the VIN number of the car. Maybe with some luck the Ford dealer can do that also.

idle speed controll or tps throttle sensor

i have 90 300 zx and i locked my keys in car had to jimmy the lock and after i got in and my stuff was going crazy like that and all i had to do was unlock passenger side door and it stopped

barely, at an angle

Type your answer here... HOW MANY VACUUM LINE ON A FORD ESCAPE

The 2005 Ford Escape has 16 valves.

From inside the engine compartment. Look down within the inside of the hood and you'll see the wiring harness going into it. There is a small plastic retainer that you lift then pull the plug back. Than a mount for it. It's really not that bad.

Obviously, buckling the seatbelt should silence the reminder. If you see/hear the reminder and all belts used by the reminder ARE buckled, the vehicle should be taken in for service ASAP. If you do not want to use your seatbelt for whatever reason, and wish to disable or silence the reminder system altogether, this can be done in a matter of minutes by a serviceperson at a dealership using a custom option setting device connected to the vehicle's internal computer. As this is a safety system, some dealerships may not be willing to do this unless you sign a liability waiver. However, if you do not wish to have the vehicle serviced professionally for whatever reason or would like to disable or bypass the seat belt reminder system for certain seats only, the following options may be of help: A piece of sheet metal of the same dimensions and shape as the actual seat belt 'plug' can be inserted into the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder. Obviously, the more the piece of metal resembles the actual 'plug', the more likely it is to work. Also, as seat belt buckle design has not changed much lately, a junkyard is one source of seat belt 'plugs' that can be cut from their straps and inserted in the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder chime. It's likely that several model years of a car (and even different makes/models) may all have similar seat belt 'plugs'. Lastly, there are wires running down the 'socket' end of the seatbelt which tell the car's computer if the seat belt is buckled or not. These wires may be cut, stripped and connected together (or separated, depending on which stops the reminder) permanently. It should be mentioned that disabling or bypassing this safety system in any way is discouraged by vehicle manufacturers, insurance companies, safety specialists and many other private and public organizations and individuals. However, there are conditions for which seatbelt use is extremely uncomfortable or presents more harm than benefit, such as in the case of certain abdominal/thoracic medical conditions, morbid obesity, etc.

Transaxle filter?? Does not have one. It does however have a transmission filter that is located inside the transmission.

Loosen the belt tensioner and take the old belt off. Put the new one on and let the tensioner back in position. If you don't have a tensioner, you'll have to loosen the alternator and ac compressor adjusting bolts.

The "kick" is the extra throttle given to the engine when the AC compressor comes on. It's done so that the engine won't die every time the compressor cycles on. If your passenger compartment fan isn't working, it's probably the motor, wiring, connector the switch or possibly a fuse, depending on how your vehicle is wired. Your blower motor is probably bad!

Although it is possible that the filiments in BOTH headlamps could burn out at the same time, it is very unlikely. This condition therefore suggests something else is wrong. I suspect that something has caused an "open" condition in the headlamp circuit. There could be several causes for an open in that circuit. For example, if one of the "hot" wires has had the insulation damaged by chaffing or being cut, and the bare wire made contact with grounded body sheet metal, then the fuse should have "blown" out to protect the wire[s] from overheating and additional damage, or fire. Another example, is that one of the connectors in the circuit have become disconnected [from vibration, someone working in the engine compartment inadvertently leaving disconnected, or possibly collision impact]. There could be many causes for an open circuit condition, but regardless, the "fix" is to first find and identify the failure, and then, based on the problem, take the proper repair action. j3h.

Work from behind light fixture

Remove wire clip and twist bulb to remove

Note: The above only works for the passenger's side headlight. The driver's side light is harder to get to. To replace the driver's side headlight remove the battery and it's hold down.