Ford Windstar LX

First, remove your left front wheel. Then remove the left front fender liner by taking out the torx screws. Now you will see the funky shaped reservoir. It has three mount bolts: 2 behind fender liner, one under hood by the fill point. You will need to pull the two fluid pumps and the fluid level detector out of the reservoir. If it wasn't empty, it is now :). Installation is same in reverse.

most faults in windstars are the torque converter and driveshaft spindle teeth wearing out.

Listed in your owner's manual and under the hood on a placard.

.044

.044

I have the very same problem, 1998 Expedition E.B.

Assuming you have the same vent motor and assembly as I do, I'll take a crack at this.

1. The switch should be receiving power, turn on your lights and check for illumination.

2. If it doesn't respond to lights, either the switch is bad or a fuse is blown.

3. If it responds intermittently, you can safely assume that the arm that extends has become dirty and requires cleaning.

4. Walk to the window that is open, lightly tap the metal mount on the outside of the vehicle. *Use an open hand and use one of two muscles at the base of your hand to do this. Do not force it, just bump it to loosen the debris in the extending arm.

5. If that works, close the window if you do not want to proceed further.

6. Using a penetrating spray -WD40 etc. Spray the exposed parts lightly to further loosen debris.

Operate the window a few more times and then leave it open.

7. Place a towel under the window and apply lubricating oil all of the arm hinges.

8. Operate the window again and depending on how far it extends, apply more lubricating oil.*Very little goes a long way.*

That's it, you're windows will be back to operational.

***However, there's always the chance that it is still very dirty and will need more invasive cleaning. There are small wire clips on the ball joint (the last lever before the window and those may be taken off for further cleaning. If that is needed, use white lithium grease or the spray that doesn't wash off. Spray or pack the hole where the ball goes and the replace ballpoint/arm together.

The End.

I've noticed that my knee or the passenger knee lines up perfectly with the power lock switch...simple but true!

Check the door pin switches that turn the dome lights on when opening the doors. If one is not getting pushed all the way in when the door is closed, every time you hit a bump, the switch will momentarily open & close, which causes the locks to lock & unlock. Also, if the cargo lights are set to turn on when the doors are open, they will flash on & off when the locks do.

Trouble code P1518 means: Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)

look at the exhaust pipe between the motor and the catalytic converter(underneath the car, about where the center console sits). It faces the passenger side and it's wire runs to a connector somewhere under the windshield wiper motor.(passenger side firewall)

junk yard

Maybe you don't have a problem with a vacuum leak. I thought I had one too because of the bad idle but it turned out that the air intake sensor needed to be cleaned with a q tip and very gently wipe it to ensure nothing is on it and that fixed my idle. ALso some of the smaller lines sometimes get carbon build up,which can be checked and cleaned with a q tip. Also the most obvious thing to check is the air intake hose to check for cracks and the air filter if it's clogged or old.

According to the Haynes guide the gap is .054 inches

There is a placard under the hood with this information. Also in your owners manual. When you purchase the new plugs they are gapped from the factory, although I suggest you re-check the gap. The parts store can also provide the correct gap.

I'm not sure it will be the same but the gap on a 2004 v star 1100 is .028 to.031

www.pelicanparts.com has it.

I found the routings on

http://www.clarks-garage.com/

According to the 1998 Ford Windstar owners manual :

LX or Premium Package models ( 25 U.S. gallons )

GL , with 3.0 L V6 , ( 20 )

Gl , with 3.8 L . ( 20 or optional 25 )

The computer needs reset. Disconnect the negative battery cable and let it set for 15 to 30 minutes. This will allow the computer to lose power and reset itself when the cable is reconnected. This should fix the problem if indeed the emission light is on because the hose was disconnected.

Probably 45 thousand or so. Call AutoZone, Napa, Advance, Carquest, they all sell plugs and have the gap settings in their computers. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 4.2 L V6 engine ( .054 inch ) 4.6 L V8 ( .054 inch ) 5.4 L V8 ( Z and L engine codes with flex fuel .054 inch ) 5.4 L V8 ( M code - natural gas and 3 code - lightning .044 inch ) Check your VECI sticker in the engine compartment ( Vehicle Emission Control Information )

I sure would love to know! :) I've been putting in tons of oil for the last year, and if I could find a fix I would be grateful. It is not burning it or leaking, just losing it somehow.

These cars do actually burn the oil. The catylitic converter finishes off any oil that is not burned in the cylinders so you don't notice tailpipe smoke. The cause for the oil burning is some wear on the cylinders combined with a very short piston skirt. The very short skirt allows the piston to tilt in the cylinder much sooner than would happen in normal engines. This causes the rings to fail to seat properly much earlier than would happen in an engine with normal skirt lengths. This means that even an engine rebuild is going to be short lived. Sorry but I am dealing with the same problem in my sons car.,2002 prizm using a quart to 50 miles. Oh! By the way, try finding a set of ring for this turkey.

This is a very, very common problem. The cheapest cure in the long run is to check the oil at every fill up and keep a case of oil handy. Most people do not want to do this and sell the car. Oil is cheaper than a monthly car payment. The car will normally last about 215,000 miles if you keep oil in it. The check engine light will come on. As long as it is steady and not blinking, it is probably the oxygen sensors or contamination of the emmission canister. I actually put a piece of black electrical tape over the check engine light to keep it from bugging me. This is my second Prizm. It now has 156,000 miles on it, starts every morning in the coldest weather and gets over 30 miles to the gallon. Engine failure is common because the oil light will NEVER come on and the engine destroys itself with no oil. They do not usually smoke so there is no visible indication that it is going through oil as fast as it does. As bad as this problem is, (and I am not trying to minimize it) these two Prizms have had the lowest total cost of ownership of any car I have owned. Other than spark plugs at 150,000 miles and tires I have not had to repair anything. I just get used to buying a lot of oil. Do not waste money trying to rebuild the engine. If compression drops dramatically in one cylinder, that engine's life is over. My advice is as long as the engine is running strong, keep the car.

ACTUALLY, I bought a two dollar can of Mass airflow sensor cleaner and separated the air intake (no tools needed) and spray it off.

The gap should be .02-.03in, but some manuals will tell you to go slightly bigger. It should be listed in a manual, which you really should get if you plan on doing any sort of tune ups on your bike.

to tell you it's working

yes happens all the time with the 2001 winstars master cylinder under firewall on driverside

Sounds like it has to do with the micro-chip in the key. Starts for about 3 seconds and dies. In 1999 Ford installed a micro-chip in the ignition key for Anti-theft purposes. If the chip isn't there, or is malfunctioning, the vehicle starts briefly and dies.

changing power steering hoses on 2007 sierra duramax