Ford Windstar SEL

If you are talking about the oxygen heat sensor it is all part of the o2 sensor. Follow the header pipe comming off the engine. There will be one screwed into the exhaust pipe. There should be one in the front and one in the back of the engine.
Might be referring to the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensors!!

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I just finished looking at this problem on my 1998 Windstar. The air ducts are vacuum operated. The short answer is that by sealing off the lines that run to the rightmost switch on the heater control panel (the one that controls heating and cooling in the rear of the van), it cleared up the "stuck in defrost" problem. To test the solution, I unplugged the two-line vacuum connector at the back of the switch and put a piece of electrical tape on the connector to seal it. The long answer follows below:

The rest of these answers are correct that a vacuum leak can cause this problem. I have not looked upstream of the switches (into the engine compartment) for any leaks there, but my jury-rig at the rear fan control switch worked. There are two vacuum diaphragms that control where the air flow goes (defrost/vent/floor). These are located by your gas pedal and the center console, and are silver colored metal canisters about one half the size of a soup can. I sucked on these with a vacuum hose and they re-directed the air fine and held vacuum fine, so they were not the problem.

Moving upstream from the vacuum diaphragms there are 6 vacuum lines in the back of the main heater control switch. One of these lines is black, and is a vacuum source (ultimately from the engine). This black line has a tee in it right behind the switch, and another black vacuum line runs from that tee to the rightmost switch on the console (which controls heating and cooling in the back of the van). That switch has just two vacuum lines to it. The black source line, and the white outlet line. I removed that two-line vacuum connector from the rear of the switch, put a piece of electrical tape over the holes, and now the main heat selector switch directs the air properly to the defrost, vent, or floor. That rightmost switch may be bad since I could hear a vacuum leak in it, and moving the switch to different positions or pressing on it could stop the hissing. It is also possible that the connector leaks, but since moving the switch changes or stops the hissing, it is most likely the switch itself. The only other possibility is that if there is low vacuum to the switch in the first place, it could cause the switch to leak. I will check that further.

There is a vacuum switch that controls an air gate that diverts the air flow to the proper outlet. Blowing air out the defroster is the default setting of the switch. Most common causes of this problem are vacuum leaks. Check the vacuum hose on the passenger side engine compartment first. It usually leaks going through the fire wall. Regardless this problem is most often always the result of a leak somewhere in the vacuum system not the failure of the switch itself.

I would say that something is binding or broken with the blender box unit. It is the mechanism that allows mixing of the different air settings and is located behind the dash area or under the passenger side area. Hope this helps.

On my '98 Windstar, this behavior was the result of a vacuum leak; the HVAC modes are vacuum-actuated.

change the a/c - heat selector switch.

More likely than not you have a vac leak there are to vac lines that run out of the firewall behind the glove box one is red and the other is black trace them out and you will find the leak probably real close to the nipple on the manifold.

Check for a vacuum leak either under hood or under dash

Check vacuum actuators

Defrost is the default setting for this system

The most likely is the vacuum line used to operate the swinging doors to redirect airflow is broken or not in place.

You have a broken or disconnected vacuum line that feeds the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system, probably under the hood. When ever there is a loss of vacuum, the system reverts to the defrost mode being the most important mode.

Your problem can be caused by either a defective heater control switch or more likely a vacuum leak. The leak can be in the vacuum supply tube to the heater control switch or at the engine where the supply tube originates or the vacuum reserve (usually a plastic ball in the engine compartment with two small vacuum lines attached).

• First gently pry against the small triangle shape panel at the fwd corner of the door to remove
• Remove the small cover with the mirror control, straight up.
• Push the window/lock switch panel forward 1/2" and lift it out.
• Then you gain access to a Phillips head screw, remove that.
• Another small Phillips screw needs to come out at the rear lower corner of the door panel
• Then LIFT only at first, then out a little to free the door panel.

Depending on what kind of car. I can change the fuel pump in my 66 ford p/u in 15 minutes.

The time required to change the fuel pump depends upon the location. Some late models have the fuel pump located in the fuel tank. This requires a trained person.

The 2000 Malibu 3.1L V6 (non-LS) takes 13.3 Gallons from empty to top of the fill pipe.

Yes.

See "Related Links" below to the Autzone.com repair guide with detailed instructions and photos for replacing either front or rear heater cores.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

That is one possibility. Another is a vacuum leak. Personal experience with help from someone in a forum: Check the plastic hose in the engine compartment on the firewall side of the passenger-side hinge. It can rub against a metal tube (for instance) and eventually wear a hole in the hose. I didn't want to tape it, afraid it might not last in hot engine compartment, or that it might block vacuum. Sales staff at AutoZone gave me ~1" piece of connecting hose. Cut vacuum hose at leak and install connecting hose. Leak wasn't bad enough to affect the front A/C.

try changing the rear air control switch on your das panel. this happened to me on my 96. or it could be a vacuum leak. more than likely the switch. about 30 bucks at ford

Hope that helps!!!

blender door not working

Ours did the same thing in blowing hot air to the floor even when the AC was on.

It is a bad switch on the front of your van- the switch where you can either control the rear climate or switch it to rear control (the one all the way to the right if I remember right). If you are in a pinch and don't want to buy a new switch you can manually manipulate the vacuum lines on the back of the switch. If you take your console cover off and unscrew the plate that fastens the 4 switches to the dash you have access to the wires and vacuum lines. If I remember right there is a yellow and a tan vacuum line that you can pull out from the switch. If you use a piece of small flexible plastic tubing you can put a "jumper" on those two vacuum lines for the summer. I found that a piece of wire insulation works great (strip a piece of wire and use the piece you remove from the wire). For the winter just remove the jumper and the heater will work. Doing this just affects the setting of hot or cold and has nothing to do with the fan speed so everything will work as normal except you have to switch the jumper as applicable for hot/cold.

my 1998 windstar was blowing hot air from the rear vents when i turned on the ac and turned on the rear fan from the front controls , the rear fan control the one right behind the drivers seat next to the ear phone jacks did not function so i disconected it and it started to blow cold air.;.; so i have to think it was a broken switch;..;.;wierd huh

if your vehicle is using dual aircon meaning to say a separate evaporator for front passenger and a evaporator system for back passenger then possibly the problem is the expansion valve of the back passenger evaporator system. it is not any more functioning properly and it has to service by a qualified aircon technician to properly removed the refrigerant ,full down the said evaporator system to be able to replace the defective expansion valve. They will have the evaporator clean and install new expansion valve with same capacity as the defective one. After they have installed it and charge the system then you will enjoy a cold ride.

possibly bad fuel pump

My 2002 had the same issue. A Body control module(computer) had to be replaced that controlled the crankshaft postioning sensor. $300! or so they said :( I don't trust mechanics!

2 weeks ago my 2002 Saturn vue was idling up by it self took it in mechanic said that my front axel crank shaft was crack Thursday just past he said you could come an pick up your car all finished. Picked it up on Thursday my daughter and myself were almost killed in the car because it excellerated on its own into rush hour traffic. I pulled over called them they say to bring back on Tuesday after the holiday went to drop off so that it is already there car did the same thing and completely died engine was shaking and everything now. Now it has now power nothing.

I second the vote for crank position sensor. If it won't start until it cools off, that means the problem is a sensor. When the engine is cold, the computer is not using sensors. When it warms up, the computer starts using sensors.