Ford Windstar SEL

My mother in law had this problem. Turned out that one of the kids had shoved a pencil into the track at the bottom of the door opening. I took this out and it works fine now. Also if the door is hard to slide you can oil the rollers. There are three different slides(top,middle,and bottom of door. Clean the gunk out of the tracks and then I use a good silicone spray. It slides easily now.

11.9 Gallons

16 feet wide and 7 ? feet high

It hold about 15 gallons including the reserve (below the empty marker).

If it is just one seat then I would start to make sure that the connector hasn't come apart some how. If it hasn't then the motor will probably have to be relaced. If all power seats don't work then check the fuse. You should be able to find it in the owners manual. Hope this helps.

It is added through the low pressure line when refrigerant is added if it is a new compressor put it in the low pressure side and you may need to push down gently on a check valve inside if equipped. an average amount of oil is 4 ounces but you need to check the manual to be sure, in my case the install instructions referred me to the owners manual which was no help, as was the haynes. I called the parts store and they looked it up for me.

need to replace thrust bearing

A grinding noise in the wheel will either be caused by worn brake pads, or a defective wheel bearing. Remove the left front wheel and inspect brake pads. If the brake pads are OK, you will need to remove the caliber and inspect the wheel bearing.

You have to test that with a meter at the battery, hook it up in series so you can read amps and see if your over 100ma, and if so, you have to start pulling fuses until it goes down, then trace that circuit involved with the fuse. HOWEVER, this car is networked, so you may have to wait 12- 15 mnutes to see if it changes first because the network has to go to sleep. If it does not, then continue pulling fuses and putting them back. You have to test that with a meter at the battery, hook it up in series so you can read amps and see if your over 100ma, and if so, you have to start pulling fuses until it goes down, then trace that circuit involved with the fuse. HOWEVER, this car is networked, so you may have to wait 12- 15 mnutes to see if it changes first because the network has to go to sleep. If it does not, then continue pulling fuses and putting them back.

what is the size of a 1989 Crowm Victoria LTD

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20 gallons ( U.S. )

Are you sure its a driveaxel issue? Does the car move? Are the outer boots ripped open? Does the driveshafts spin but the wheel doesn't? hulala

For a 2002 Ford Escort ( all models )

The gas tank holds

( 48.5 litres / 12.8 U.S. gallons )

I just figured it out. well, mine is a 1998. I'm guessing its the same.

The screw on top is obvious. Lay on your back under the truck and you can see the lower connection. Using a screwdriver or butter knife, pry it part. The light moves forward.Pretty simple actually.

Behind the acess panel on the passenger side of the cargo area

its on the fuel rail, it actually takes temperature of the rail not fuel.

15.0 liters ( 15.9 quarts ) according to the 2001 Ford Windstar Owner Guide -

cooling system capacity with rear heater

The mirror glass for a Ford Focus is available online at places like CariD and Parts Geek. You can also buy the entire mirror online on eBay for about $30.

Sensors on the wheels determine if the wheels are moving at the approximate same speed. During braking, if one wheel locks up, the brakes will start to pulse, allowing the locked wheel or wheels to start turning again and return control of the steering. The same basic principle is used during accelleration. If one wheel starts to spin considerably faster than the others, the ignition is briefly disconnected, reducing the accelleration rate and allowing the tire to stop spinning. The two processes share the same wheel sensors as well as many other parts of the control system. Yes, the two are definitely related. It may be something as simple as a loose connection or something as complex as a faulty module. Unfortunately, the best way to determine what is wrong with the traction control would be to have the vehicle connected to a diagnostic unit that can check the brakes and onboard control computer. This can be done at an independent repair shop, and if the vehicle is out of warranty, it will probably be a bit expensive.

prob a vacume leak

11.6 gallons

When my car fails to shift to 3rd it has always been human error. I thought I set the shift to 'D' but set it to '2' instead. The moving plastic pieces around the base of the shifter that show what gear you have selected are often broken on a 90's Corolla. The owner of such a car can't tell what position is picked until he becomes very familiar with it. If the stick is set to '2', it will not shift into 3rd by itself. Make sure that the setting that you think is Drive is actually Drive and not 2nd gear. The various plastic pieces of the position indicator can be ordered from the dealer. For such insubstantial parts they outrageously expensive but in absolute terms the total cost of about $30 to $40 isn't too bad. If the cause is not that simple then the problem is most likely the transmission itself, but it would worth checking the mechanism around the shift lever. I can't visualize how a misadjusted cable or the pencils and other junk that drops down into this area would jam the mechanism so it would shift to 2nd but not 3rd. However the question stipulates that the problem is not in the transmission so the automatic shift assembly is about the only thing left to check. The main question is whether the cables are properly attached and extend correctly when you put the lever on 'D'. The raised plastic panels between the drivers seat and the passenger seat are in three sections. To get to the shift mechanism, first remove the rearmost panel that is around the parking brake. It is held by screws near the floor of the car. Slip it off over the parking brake. Next remove the handle of the shifter by removing the screw on the side of the handle. Then remove the middle plastic section , also by removing screws near the floor of the car. The middle section can be slid away from the front section, which need not be removed. Under the bottom of the stick near the floor of this assembly you will see a beige plastic assembly that pivots. The end of this that faces the front of the car should be unhooked and lose. This plastic piece is used during the process of attaching the shift cable and parking break cable to the shift stick. You put the shifter in Park and press the end of this plastic up to hook over a pin on the metal part that faces it. Then you attach the ends of the cables to the shifter and put in the clips or collars at the front of assembly that hold the cable sheaths. Then you detach the end of the beige plastic assembly. There is an electrical part at the rear of the shifter than the service manual calls a computer. On 90-92 models of this car it contains the logic that keeps you from shifting out of park unless you do normal things like depress the brake petal. If you find that you are having to press the release button (on the front left of this assembly) to release the stick then it is remotely possible this computer has gone bad. But there is a more dangerous possibility. Check your brake lights! If the fuse to the break lights burns out then it causes this minor symptom of having to use the release button. When you replace fuses, look up the proper size (AMPS) that is required. Don't trust that the old fuse was the correct size. ====headline==== Toyotas have a transmission control relay, usually just below the dash near the fusebox, blinker, etc. Find it, it's labelled, and get it tested- it's a common problem causing what you describe.

Some recommend diagnosing the fuel relay, which is controlled by the PCM. My car gives me the error immediately, but my vehicle starts and I can drive it. Typically when I start it it dies immediately, then I start it again and it runs a little rich. I don't drive it much because I have other vehicles. I haven't fixed it yet. I recommend simulating the pcm signal to the fuel relay if your car doesn't start. If it starts after the simulation, then replace the PCM/check the wiring for continuity. Otherwise throw a fuel relay at it. Check wires first, as it is both prudent and could blow the new part.

70 Liter, or 18.5 Gal., or 15.4 Imp. Gal.

where is the #5 injector? how long does it take to fix

Pcm

For all my fellow continental owners i feel your pain, but you love your car right?? its the fuel pump regulator switch. you may also want to replace your fuel filter. the part is about 100$ plus labor. good luck!

That answer is not correct I also replaced the FPDM (fuel pump driver module) and other components. I had this exact problem and spent LOTS of money to discovery that the connector that is on top the transmission near the battery tray had gotten too hot and melted causing a main power feed to most sensors and the PCM (computer) to lose power! any one that needs a diagram and instructions on how to repair can e-mail me: garyalcorn@yahoo.com