Heating AC and Engine Cooling

its Your Temperture Sensor located just below the upper radiator hose on the engine. No signal and the computer turns on the fans to prevent from overheating but the result is running too cold and poor fuel milage. I have seen this first hand and it is a common problem from the sounds of it... I also replace the thermostat at the same time. Expect to use up a Saturday to do it if you have never done one. The whole Throttle body assembly must come off to do the Thermostat but the sensor is easy. Use a deep well socket to clear the plug. Costs about $20.

Do this ASAP or it can damage the Catalatic Convertor and that's about $300.00!

Most likely the temp sensor is bad

go to the salvage yard and put that one in and it will work. It's not hard to get out just two wires you unplug. Make sure you take off the neg from you battery before you install the one you got.

Try replaceing the a/c relay. On my Chevy S-10 blazer the relay is on the firewall passenger side.

Your blower motor is failing and is only working on high speed.

The answer from Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: "The pistons move in and out at the same time, like boxers' fists." Subarus and old VWs are also considered boxers due to their opposing cylinder layout.

in the exhaust possibly but in the cabin more often means leaking heater core.

The condenser fan is more likely to run when the car is idling. So if it NEVER comes on when idling you definitely have a problem. If the condenser is not cooled, then your compressor could get overloaded. It may be a problem with a relay that is preventing the fan from running - or some other issue.

How do you know it leaks? Fluid level drops or by puddle on ground? If puddle it may be from the overflow. May be overheating even if temp reads normal. Radiator cap may be weak and letting the coolant come out the over flow. Replacing cap "may" fix it. Answer 1 is not incorrect but, I will respond to the part of the question about running "cool" in spite of the leak. IF the temperature sensing and guaging system are working properly, then the "normal" reading is correct. If the leak is small enough, and ENOUGH coolant REMAINS in the cooling system, then that would allow for adequate cooling, and thus a normal reading. Also, if the leak is small, and by regular "topping off," you keep the cooling system FULL, then one would expect normal cooling, and thus a normal guage indication. j3h.

Chances are you have a bad IRCM which stands for integrated relay control module testing it requires a special tool found at the ford dealer or a ford wiring diagram and an electrical engeneering degree. best chances are a junk yard the control module is located on the core support drivers side and has a aproxx 4 inch wide grey connector good luck The ford doctor

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Fill the radiator to the top with coolant. Start the car and keep checking the coolant level. The coolant level will drop when the thermostat opens up, so refill it.

Not knowing what kind of furnace you have makes answering this difficult. What type of furnace do you have (gas,electric, oil) and how old is it?

Look near the thermostat area for a brass and plastic thing that is screwed in. It should have a plug in the end of it with wires attached.

Cooling fans are controlled by the computer based on input from temperature sensor. After the vehicle is shut down, if the temperature is still high, the computer will turn on the fans to cool the engine.

If the original diagnosis was to change the water pump to repair the blower then you may want to look for a different mechanic. The blower motor could be shot or look for loose wires under the dash or hood or perhaps a blown fuse in the fuse panel. If its a matter of heat in the vehicle then perhaps a new thermostat is in order. There is no relationship between the two mechanically. One of two scenarios happened, When the pump was changed there was somthing disconnected in regards to the blower motor, possibly accidently or possibly as part of the R & R procedure and not re-connected. The second scenario is that you have a 10 year old blower motor and 10 year old components for that system that have failed just as your pump did. WHAT WAS THE ORIGINAL COMPLAINT? Poor heat, a belt that came off or Leaking coolant. Water pump diagnosis is not rocket science in most cases. It is very rare that a water pump is the cause of poor heat and would be quite surprised if this was the original complaint. IF a shop knows this isn't the problem they also know they are going to have to call you back because it didn't fix the problem. I Assure you they don't want to do that as there is enough stress in this industry without having to add to the paranoia of getting "ripped-off". Your particular car may fall into a small group of rivieras and Auroras from 1995 that the blower will not turn on if the coolant temperature does not exceed 108 F. under particular circumstances. The Vin Breakpoints are S4100000 thru S4113711.

there is a hose coming from bottom of rad up to a housing right under the altenator. take these two 8 mm bolts out of the housing and the thermastat is located inside the housing. I have found that it is alot easier to remove the alt. and the mounting bracket to get to the housing.

It came with a R12 system. If you're not the original owner of the vehicle, I'd recommend that you have a refrigerant purity test done to determine if it was converted or not - many such conversions didn't go all out, due to the expense, and thus retain the R12 schrader valves.

Try changing the 30 Amp CB fuse , It's located under the hood -right front fender in the Power distribution Box. Fuse/Relay Location 17 this is the Cooling fan Relay.

Most cooling fans come on low speed around 150 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Unless, your running the air conditioner or the defroster. Turning on your air will also activate the cooling fan.

Bad temp. sensor? on most ford contour cars the cooling fan only runs when the motor reaches a certain temp. this model car also has a cooling fan relay switch,if the switch is bad the fan will not run.

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A Liquid Cooling engine works by using Water and Ani Freeze to travel from the resevwar to the engine via a Water Pump, and it travels through water jackets that cool the engine down. when that water gets to hot the Thermostart opens to let water out from the engine through the return pipe and goes through the radiator fins to cool the Hot water down, then goes back into the engine to cool again.

Your heater core is probably bad.

Incorrect torque pounds, or incorrect sequence of torque,improper gasket installation, foreign matter not allow gasket to properly seal or warped intake manifold or warped block

first you have to go to the fonzes grave and then stab him twice and your as cool as fonz